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THE COURIER
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FASHION
NEW YORK, Feb. ".To the experi
enced In matters sartorial, the -feat of
naming the designer of a gown is not
difficult. Like the mannerisms of a
painter, a writer, a composer or an
actor, the mannerisms of the modiste will
Invariably crop out no matter how dili
gently and deftly she endeavor to dis
guise them. The modistes will resent this
statement, I am sure, but It Is true,
nevertheless. They will declare that
many of their creations are never
touched by them personally. This also
may be true, yet their individuality is
stamped upon their work by their able
substitutes. Sometimes it is a sleeve,
sometimes a skirt, or the back of a
bodice which tells the tale; or it may be
some favored finish about the fastening.
Naming three of the best known New
York couturieres, a woman of fashion
told me the other day that she could
invariably distinguish their productions
at a glance. She was a constant patron
of all three, and she knew of what she
was talking.
"Blank always finishes a black gown
just so about the bottom, and Art & Co.
Invariably combine a certain kind of lace
with crepe de chine, while Spangle has
seemingly but one lower sleeve and puts
dangling ornaments all over every
thing." Paquln and Worth, famed the
world over, have each an entirely new
and original model at the beginning of
every season, and you will observe that
all the gowns they turn out during the
following months are merely a variation
of it. Very often there is not much
variation either, which accounts for the
duplicates observed at any fashionable
gathering. Some women take this good
naturedly, as did Miss Roosevelt and
her friend the other evening, when they
met dressed like twins, while others are
greatly chagrined. A woman, not long
ago, became very Indignant because her
gown was not "exclusive," as she had
been assured it would be, and demanded
an exchange. She got it, and an apology
as well. The sending out of duplicate
gowns as "exclusives" is the very worst
and most undesirable reputation a house
can possibly get.
One sees some stunning afternoon costumes-
these days. Mrs. George Law,
whose brunette beauty is still striking,
has a singularly becoming violet cloth
gown, with which she wears a large flat
hat of a somewhat darker shade. The
suit is made with a long, sweeping skirt
and a three-quarter coat of faultless
lines. A little black is shown In the
trimming of the lapels of the coat and
upon the small cuffs, but otherwise the
costume is unique in its simplicity. The
blouses worn beneath the severe coat are
another story, however, and are as
elaborate as possible. The hat is
trimmed with a profusion of great purple-hearted
chrysanthemums.
All the most effective hats are now
trimmed with some sort of flowers, or
flowers in combination with something
else. Crushed roses, roses and violets,
pansies and dahlias, to say nothing of
the immensely popular chrysanthemum,
are much in vogue.
The touch of black seen In winter
gowns and hats will continue in the
summer gowns. The heavy linens and
FAIR JAPAN TO WELCOME CHINA
MME
TAKAH1&A
Mme. Tokahlra, wife of the Japanese minister at "Washington, Is the only
oriental woman presiding over a legation at the capital. She entertains lavish
ly and when the new Chinese minister brings his bride to Washington. Mme.
Tokahira plans a brilliant reception to her sister oriental.
crashes, elaborately embroidered, which
are already shown in some of the shops,
presage this indisputably. French knots
are by no means things of the past
either, but appear larger, more elaborate
and more numerous than ever. In fact,
many gowns show the entire bodice,
skirt yoke and panel covered with Ihe
tedious and costly little things.
The lovely antique laces show squares
and hollow circles of linen appliqued
upon their big designs, the linen itself
being profusely French knotted In either
black or white. A white cloth calling
gown seen recently was most effectively
combined with this antique lace, and had
applications of delicate blue broadcloth
by way of color. With the gown a long
coat of white cloth with black velvet
collar and yoke and cuffs of heavy Rus
sian lace was worn. The lace formed
also the full bottom part of the coat, pro
ducing an effect almost like that of a
flounce.
The cuffs on the new evening coats are
very pointed in the back, and are much
deeper than heretofore.
The advance spring gowns tell a story
of their own about sleeves and skirts.
The former are to be fuller, and the lat
ter anything but tight. Indeed, skirts
are to be just as generous as one's figure
can stand. Of course, not like those seen
in "When Johnny Comes Marching
Home," but just tending that way. The
hoop-skirt must have been a product of
the generally upset and extraordinary
condition of things social and political
during the civil war. It will probably
never come In again. It is too clumsy
and unmanageable.
The cherry-colored ribbons and floun
ces with which the girls draped the
odious hoops were very pretty, however.
Some of the wraps, too, were only eg-
aggerations of the charming midwinter
style we so much admire this season. But
surely no modern modish will ever en
case her feet in the flat cloth afrairs,
tied about the ankles with ribbons,
which went with those costumes of the
early sixties.
Discrimination is the keynote of suc
cessful gowns. A woman who knows at
once what she can and what she cannot
wear, even though she may not be able
to tell you why, has solved the first prob
lem of good dressing. Fortunately, white
is to be the rage again this summer. I
say fortunately, because it is becoming,
in some form, to every woman. laces,
plaltings and tucks of all dpscriptlons
are also on the list of summer sureties,
while handwork in jnany'old ana new
styles will be popular. The grape craze,
however, is waning. It had too great a
boom.
Elaborate summer frocks have been In
hand for weeks already. It takes so long
to tum them out on account of the in
tricate work required in their trimmings.
Even a simple Swiss or mull will be lit
erally smothered in fancy laces of tuck
Ings. Sashes, too, are to be worn, and
long, stole-like ends of black velvet rib
bons finish many a lovely gown about
the belt
The Parisian craze for gray hair
among fashionable women Is the very
latest fad. It does not seem possible
that such a custom should rule, even for
a short period, but one can never tell.
Bleached hair has entirely gone out, and
now the wonderful Titian reds are passe.
What the New York patrons of henna
will do about the matter remains to be
seen. It must be an almost herculean
task to make gray hair out of any hair
that has been tampered with, much less
made red, without going Into retirement
for six or eight months and letting good
old mother nature have another chance.
There is no getting around the fact, how
ever, that gray hair adds to one's age.
A rather conspicuous guest of the Wal
dorf is a woman who declares she is only
twenty-nine, yet who, because of her
iron-gray hair, looks all of forty-five.
I therefore seriously doubt the American
adoption of this fad. Lady Modish, in
Town Topics.
First Lady Passenger (on elevated)
That is the first gentleman Tve seen in
some time.
Second Lady Passenger What did he
do?
First Lady Passenger Offered me his
strap.
"I suppose you can show up any old
kind of a ghost I've a mind to call for?"
said the scoffer.
"Not exactly," replied the spiritualist,
who formerly presided over a riblion
counter; "I have only the medium
shades."
"Marie has lost her German prince."
"How was that?"
"Well, another heiress offered more."
RICH ARMY LIEUTENANT
The richest young officer in the
American Regular Army is Lieut.
Robert S. Clark, whose mother re
cently wed Bishop Potter. Lieut.
Clark has a fortune of $10,000,000. He
lives in a magnificent mansion in
Washington. He gives nearly all his
time, however, to his duties as an offi
cer in the Ninth U. S. Infantry. He
has never missed a day from post
Lieutent Clark will soon go on act
ive service to China and the Philippines.
Mrs. Bixby It takes a good milliner to
make a hat become a woman.
Bixby I should think It would take a
magician.
"And what did you eat for lunch?"
asked the doctor. "I don't know," an
swered the sick man, weakly. "I ordered
turkey hash and mince pie." Kansas
City Journal.
I wmt
ft KaPV
H
Btmmimr
In every town
and village
may be had,
v the
Mica
Axle
Grease
that makes your
horses glad.
SML$
HORSE COLLARS
iijgg
ASKYOUR tEAi.tRTOsri(WtTflfM
BEFORE, YOU BUY.
MNurACTUBED By
HARPHAM BB0S.C0.
Lincoln.Neb. '