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8
THE. COURIER
The Courier
Published Every Saturday
PALATIAL MANSION WHERE CARNEGIE WILL LIVE
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FASHION
NEW YORK. Nov. 29. The popularity
of squirrel as a fashionable fur is likely
to be short-lived. It is the fail of the
moment, and though very effective, it is
not sufficiently costly to continue long:
In favor. Mrs. John Jacob Astor and
one or two other women of fashion have
gowns of it auto coats and skirts but
even these, elaborately made, cost only
two hundred dollars, and some less, in
the highest-price fur shops.
Boas and muffs retail on Twenty-third
street and Sixth avenue for less than ten
dollars. As a consequence, we shall
doubtless shortly see shop-girls, mani
cures and stenographers arrayed in
these gray pelts. The fact that there is
a still cheaper fur, called genet, so
closely resembling Russian squirrel as
to be distinguished from it only by an
expert, makes the. doom of the latter all
the more certain. In color and quality
the furs are almost Identical. They dif
fer only in the size of the skins, those of
the genet being nearly twice as large as
those of the squirrel. Ermine, sable and
baby-lamb continue In favor, and the
furriers are now showing some exceed
ingly handsome garments.
At a Fifth avenue shop I saw an ex
quisite full-length pink silk evening
cloak, appliqued in black cut-velvet flow
ers and lined throughout with ermine.
It had long, loose sleeves, ermine and
chiffon trimmed, and a superb ermine
collar. Flounces of chiffon and billows
of lace finished the front edges to the
bottom. All the new models, with the
exception of a few Faquln velvets, have
perfectly loose backs. The Paquln
models, oddly enough, show the tight
fitting backs.
An ermine coat, reaching below the
hips, is made in full box style, with a wide
collar, perfectly flat (as are all the lat
est collars), and pointed in the back. The
sleeves are very "fancy," as the dress
makers say. There Is a tight cap from
the armhole to a depth of about six
inches, which is finished in big scallops.
From there springs a full, very full puff,
also of fur, caught in a wide turned
back fur cuff, scalloped to match the cap.
This sleeve is shown on many good
models, and Is certainly effective. It is
not a strictly new style, having been a
summer's success in lace and chiffon,
but it is a novelty in fur and heavy ma
terials. A coat of Russian imperial sable three
quarter length almost takes away the
breath of the woman who loves rich and
costly things. This Is made loose, with
a slight ripple about the bottom, and
has the same sleeve as the ermine, save
that each cuff Is made of an entire skin
of the sable. The collar is unique. It is
short in front, and extends in six side
plaits to the waist in the back, forming
a full flap, which is very good style. A
sable cape worth many thousands is
long and full, and finished with wide
duchesse lace chiffon and sable flounces,
one over the other.
A fine wrap of moire and Persian
baby-lamb was made after the ermine
model, and had sable cuffs and collar.
At the cuffs the tall of each sable was
caught In its mouth. I believe each sable
skin cost five or six hundred dollars;
they are shown as high as seven hun
dred and fifty apiece. The Deulllet and
Paquln models In black velvet and
cloth are short, and show a little green
or red In combination. I do not think
they can compare with the wraps I have
described.
Auto suits and coats are shown In rein
deer, squirrel, baby-lamb, civet and sable
gills. The latter are made from the
tiny soft throats of the sable, and shade
from bright yellow to sable brown by
very gradual stages.
Muffs and boas are larger and flatter
than they have been for years. The
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In this beautiful mansion, one of the most magnificent private residences in the world, Andrew Carnegie will live
when in New York. The great millionaire, who is now on his way to America, has spent millions upon the erection
of his New York home and when he takes up his residence there its Interior fittings will vie in magnificence with the
splendid furnishings of Skibo Castle, his Scotland home.
stoles, so popular this season, give no
protection to the throat, as few of them
fasten up snugly. It is the fashion to
wear them falling from the shoulder, and
to close them in front spoils the lines.
A blue gray squirrel coat has a high
storm collar to be turned up for automo
blllng. The skirt of this model is full
length, extending to the bottom of the
gown, and there is a flat wide cape be
neath the storm collar. The sleeves have
cuffs turned back, and are very loose and
comfortable. Another model shows kim
ono sleeves, with a tighter under sleeve
for warmth. This is not very pretty nor
becoming.
The short coats of squirrel or genet,
with a fairly wide ermine collar and box
shaped with wide sleeves, are much
favored. Sunday brought out several
dozen of this sort. One made with a
tight back had long postilions of the fur
and loose stole-llke front tabs. The
sleeves were large puffs from the elbow.
The hats which accompany these coats
are generally of two varieties, the flaf
and the modified tricorne. The former
Is the more modish, but all faces cannot
stand it. The other turns away from the
face all around, and Is usually trimmed
with some contrasting fur or with lace.
One pretty model in squirrel has a white
broadcloth crown, traversed with heavy
Venetian lace. Medallions of the same
sort finish the brim. With a broadtail
blouse coat a wide, white felt hat was
worn, turned up sharply at the left side,
with a long plum-colored plume falling
over the right side.
A short fitted sealskin, with revers and
collar, lace appliqued, is quite pretty.
Blondes still cling to the ever-becoming
chinchilla, and indeed nothing is hand
somer than this perishable and delicate
far, particularly for short coats and for
hats.
A loose coat with a broad, drooping
uhawl-like collar and wide-cuffed sleeves
attracted attention at a theatre supper
the other evening. The throat opening
showed rare old lace and ermine tabs In
a sort of wide jabot, and the young wo
man who was its proud possessor worj?
a chinchilla and ermine toque with one
short blue plume over the back.
Moleskin is shown, but it is not very
dressy. Marmot combines beautifully for
driving coats with Russian or Arabian
lace. Marabou feather wraps are an In
novation of the season, and are pretty,
though not very warm. The wide, fluffy
shoulder capes and muffs to match are
Inexpensive and well suited to the days
just preceding the really cold weather.
Often two shades of the feathers, as
white and brown or gray, are employed
together, but the combination is not so
much approved as the single shades.
A large cape one possessing some
warmth Is made of selected sables, and
ends in a long stole which reaches below
the knees. The entire wrap is bordered
with exquisite heavy lace, and has a
saddle-back muff to match. The wide,
flat collar, ending at the waist, and made
up of a combination of fur and lace with
tails dangling all over it, is very effective
on a young person. Many of the younger
set prefer these to the longer and more
pretentious stoles. Lady Modish, in
Town Topics.
of Pittsburg, however, will be richer in
schools to the extent of $2,500,000 on ao'
count of Frick's ill will toward Came- "V
gie. Frick will build a university rival-
ing in equipment the Carnegie Institute.
gP and Our
tl1jbors
COMPLEXIONS.
Dr. Ralph Grace of Battle Creek, in
his lecture on "The Proper Diet," says
that women must either give up the
habit of eating bon bons or lose their
complexions. The women, in spite of.
good advice, will keep right on eating
chocolates, even if they have to spend
the money they have saved for foot
ball games. There is a certain lady In
Lincoln who confesses that the next
thing she reads in the newspapers after
cheap bargains is always the illustrated
sheet, "How to grow beautiful." Then
she absolutely declines to follow the pre
scriptions. She refuses to stand over the
stove mixing doubtful messes for the
complexion, but Instead cooks tempting
viands for an ungrateful family.
EAST AND WEST MEET.
At the horse show in New York, the
other day, Mrs. Vanderbilt was arrayed
In a fur dre.cs containing the skins of
eight hundred squirrels. Carrie Nation
took one look at the gown and remarked:
"These wlmmen had all better be home
tending to their families."
THANKFUL.
Now that there is time to think it
over, there is a settled conviction In
the minds of the American people that
President Roosevelt never intended to
shoot a bear. A joke makes more friends
than a hard fact. It would have been
too much like the stern realities of life
for the little bears left motherless just
at Thanksgiving.
RIVALS.
Spite is one of the lowest motives that
can actuate man. It is only flt to find
lodgment in the breast of a savage.
Rarely can good come of it. The city
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before: you buy.
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rnp r WE no WE SELL WE CARRY
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