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FASHION
NEW YORK, Oct. 18 In spite or the
monotonous downpour of rain, there
was a goodly showing of early autumn
modes at the Tuxedo horse show.
Though many of the younger women
and girls appeared in smart tailored
frocks, there was nevertheless a pleas
ing display of more elaborate cos
tumes. In the first-mentioned group, Miss
Harriman, with her striking blonde
beauty, looked extremely well in a
dark-hued short suit.
One of Mrs. Lorillard's guests, in a
gray silk crepe with embroidery, at
tracted admiring attention.
The extremely long and graceful
skirt, made with a wide graduated
flounce, had heavy gray lace about the
bottom. This was In turn headed by
elaborate silk embroidery trimming
done in the most delicate shades.
The same style of trimming showed
In another band half-way up the skirt,
meeting a narrow tucked panel of the
silk In front
The bodice was made with a short
square-edged bolero of the lace and
embroidery in combination. -
This, which showed' delicate silk
roses and ferns worked Into the heavj
lace, opened over a full tucked front
of chiffon and lace, with a double row
of tiny jeweled buttons traversing it
from top to bottom.
The buttons were pearl and pale
pink coral, each no larger than a small
pea.
The sleeves were of solid lace, over
tucked gray chiffon, with deep elbow
cuffs of embroidery from which dan
gled the slender, long, silk-covered
pendants so much in vogue ever since
Mrs. Alfred "Vanderbilt set the fashion
by reviving them for her famous white
automobile coat.
Another delicate gown, of biscuit
cloth and yak lace, had a very novel
collar formed of lace, cut in wide turn
down style, not unlike last winter's
Aiglon.
From this sprung a high straight
standing collar of lace, so bestudded
with rhinestone roses with topaz cen
ters aa to have almost the appearance
of a jeweled collarette. I did not care
particularly for the effect.
There were a few velvet gowns on
view, notably one resembling gun
metal as nearly as anything in color
ing, being of that odd grayish black.
It was very handsome and stylish. I
have little doubt that velvets will be
much worn this season, though per
haps not with the same partiality ac
corded them last year.
An elderly matron in a brown cordu
roy looked well, as the soft color set off
her snow hair admirably. The gown
had a plain long skirt, and a htted
coat outlined about the edges with
silk cord of the thickness of one's lit
tle finger.
It had cuffs of the gauntlet style,
and a deep lay-down collar.
The front fastenings were a species
of frogs made of the cord and applied
In a double row not too close together.
At the cluU-house any number of
beautiful gowns were in evidence, par
ticularly In the evening. Probably the
most striking was one of white Cluny
lace over black, white-figured net. The
skirt was plain, with the exception of a
deep flounce of the net headed by four
or Ave tiny net quillings intertwined
with' while at the top and bottom.
The ood'ee was of net. primarily,
with a dep V to the waist-line, back
and front, of spangled lace. The
spangles were put on in the shape or
Inverted azaleas.
Tiny white and black satin bows,
placed alternately, fastened the bodice
In the back and traversed the skirt
from the waist to the end of the train.
Below a pearl collar with diamond
clasps were lace medallions forming a
narrow yoke.
The sleeves were very short, ending
considerably above the elbow in long,
sweeping bow-ends of some filmy ma
terial with lace appliqued. A wide
bilmmed white beaver hat, with trail
ing white ostrich plumes falling quite
to the shoulder from one side, complet
ed as stunning a toilette as I have seen
this autumn.
1 noticed Miss Cathleen Nellson get
ting out of a cab in Fifth avenue dur
ing the rainstorm the other day. She
wore a hat with a most pronounced dip
over her face and a more modified dip
in the back. About this a clumsy,
thick dotted veil was stretched in a
most unbecoming manner.
Her coat, entirely covering her gown,
was a long, loose storm garment with
a dark velvet collar.
Speaking of coats, a. -fitted back will
be almost unknown this season. All
the new models show looser, fuller ef
fects than ever.
Many of them have incised work:
that is to say, the cloth cut out in
patterns showing the lining beneath.
They are often trimmed with braids,
old style passementerie and all sorts
of novel buttons, large and small, but
large preferred.
The fad at present is to wear either
no veil at all, as if proud to exhibit
the summer's tan, or else to go to the
other extreme and swathe the face in
a thick black dotted and meshed veil
of Brussels, and to drape over It a
close black or dark chiffon veil to
match the trimmings on the hat.
The effect, though artistic, is heavy,
and must be far from comfortable
these humid days.
Nearly 11" the new chiffon veils "have"
borders some of them hemstitched
about an inch and a half in depth.
Many have large polka dots embroid
ered by hand over their surface.
These dots are quite as large as or
larger than a dime.
It' oes without saying they are not
intended to be worn over the face, but
merely to be draped about the hat.
A millinery novelty Is a wide hat
with cock's feathers put on its brim
after the manner of ostrich plumes.
A costume of deep orange shading
to cream white, through masses of
billowy drapery and flounces innumer
able, now on view at one of the
theatres, is a theme for comment
among the modistes.
This wonderful creation almost beg
gars description, but its salient feat
ures, which make it unquestionably a
marvel of workmanship, are the enor
mous flowers on skirt and bodice.
These stand out from the gown, petal
by petal, fully two or three inches,
and the effect, with the rich shades
employed, is little short of gorgeous.
A gray satin I saw the other day,
worn carelessly by a ponderous wo
man of fifty, bore the Worth stamp
and had somewhat the same sort of
work on it.
The flowers were simpler, and did not
stand out so far, but they were ef
fective nevertheless.
This gown showed some spangles
here and there, as do many of the
season's novelties and best models.
Used with discretion, spangles do add
to the general harmony.
Completely spangled toilettes, how
ever, such as were the rage some sea
sons ago, are never seen now, save
occasionally on the stage, worn by
"some minor character.
A charming street costume of black
tweed, seen last week at a matinee,
was noticeable for its simplicity.
The skirt was of the new triplicate
sort, especially adapted to slender ,.
women, to whom they are most be
coming. The coat was an Eaton, with a little
pale blue cloth piping visible at the
cuffs and down the front.
A black hat, flat and broad,, made of
velvet, was worn with the gown. A
big, pale blue satin bow trimmed it
in the back, and about its brim was
laid carelessly a wreath of pink roses X.
of the smallest double variety. Lady
Modish in Town Topics.
A it
"What are coal-bins, pop?"
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