c- I ft f t & D tx r -- VOL. XV., NO. XV ESTABLISHED IN 1886 PRICE FIVE CENTS LINCOLN. NEBR., SATURDAY, APRIL 14, 1900. WBav KXTKEEDIN THE POSTOFTICE AT LINCOLN AS SECOND CLASS MATTER. THE COURIER, Official Organ of the Nebraska State Federation of Women's Clubs. PUBLISHED EVERY SATURDAY BT. THE COURIER PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO Office 1132 N street, Up Stairs. Telephone 384. SARAH B. HARRIS. Editor Subscription Kates In Advance. Per annum $100 Six months 75 Three months 50 One month 20 Single copies 05 The Codeier will not bo responsible for vol nntaiy communications unless accompanied by return postage. Communications, to receive attention, must be signed by tke full narao of the writer, not merely as a guarantee of good faith, but for publication if advisable. : o Q OBSERVATIONS n John Raskin. Josiah Allen's wife heard her hus band regret that there were so few women of the type Ruskin describes in his book ''Sesame and Lilies." Over, and over again in this book Rus kin exhorts women to cease doing for the sake of being. A woman, he ad vises in a hundred different ways, whereof he knew how so well, to cease weighting her shoulders and harden ing her palms in service. He thought that man would be fed, warmed and comforted by the contemplation of woman as an object of beauty. Why should she scrub, sew, bake, sweep and dust to make him happy, when she might drape her limbs in classic garments and sit down where the light, softly falls, in an attitude hap pily preserved for her consultation on the low reliefs of the Grecian urn ? Mrs. Josiah Allen catching the dis approving looks which the man of the house directed upon her as 6he was scrubbing hie clothes, decided to consult "Sesame and Lilies", herself. Reading therein that making her hands hard and knotty in household ministry she was breaking the cob webby law of beauty, Mrs. Allen con cluded that sho would reform, for Josiah's sake Her squat figure had long since forgot, the sway of the rose. Only the healthy, russet red of her cheeks and the clear twinkle of her eyes suggested sturdy, irrepressi ble rield flowers. In the book to wo men Mrs. Allen read over and over again in the hundred, cunning phras ingsof one idea, "Oh! woman be a rose, be a lily!" and Mrs. Allen de cided to obey the author whom Josiah thought infallible. When the poetic spouse returned from the barn with foaming paiis of milk, he found his wife carefully dis posed in a rocking chair in the mid dle of the room with a beam of light from the setting sun resting tenderly upon her hair. "Strain this milk," be roared, but Samantha looked gravely and sweetly past him at the setting sun and the illuminated west. You will remember that Josiah had to get his own supper and his break fast and to continue doing the work outside and inside until he remember ed with aching regret the homely services he had disparaged at the command of Ruskin. To convince his wife to give up her role of a rose lie was obliged to confess that he was "a blame fool" and Ruskin was too. Samantha Allen took Ruskin seri ously. It is doubtful if he thought his own advice would be follo.wed literally. In choicest and most musi cal phrase lie informed woman of her mission in life. Of the women who knew him, only his mother ever loved him and that was because she was his mother. He was a champion of woman whom all the women he knew rejected. He said lie was a champi on of the poor man, and his books were the most expensive ever pub lished. No laborer of the sort he wrote about was ever seen reading one o'f Ruskin's books, it is there fore reasonable to conclude that he aimed high, but according to history he never hit anything. A review in the current Scribners is fair to Rus kin and to the artists he contemned as well as to those he admired. Turner has long since ceased to occupy the whole of even the English horizon and Ruskin who apotheosized him is slowly getting into focus. Ruskin's fame and claim to human interest is not as an authority upon and god of art or architecture or social matters. He was a genius in words. Like Ten nyson his phrases were perfect, bril liant, fascinating, but the whole of his work was lacking ih effect and meaning. Nobody is an authority on art. Only the great painters, sculp tors, architects can suggest changes to other artists and to an inspired understanding it is permitted to ex plain why pictures are beautiful. More than this the generations of men will not long endure. The Mode in Hats. Between the year of 1850 and 18C0 Godey's magazine shows that the hats were rimless, oblong, or oval cups, worn as Tommy Atkins wears his cap, and attached to the head in the same way with an elastic. Since then women bare worn queer shapes enough, but none were entirely devoid of grace and beauty until the cynic woman-hater that sits enthron ed in Paris delivered the styles for this spring. Conforming to the en tirely artificial coiffure of the day the hats are heavy, solid looking rolls of silk mull, silk or ugly straw, with an occasional dead bird flattened out as if for broiling on top of the hat. The type or model is the turban of the Turks. But the copies or conven tionalized turbans, lack the grace, the structural simplicity, the excuse of long custom and religion of the Turkish headcoveriog. A Turk knows better than to attempt to wind a sheaf of brittle straw about his head. The turban of the Turks is yards of softest silk that easily passes through a finger ring. With the deft ness of more than two thousand years of practice lie winds it in 'irregular rolls about his head and fastens it by a motion swift and inimitable. He wears it with dignity. It is a na tional heac'-dress and protects his head from the vertical rays of the sun that is a near neighbor to Turkey. It lias also the beauty of sincerity: the rolls arc rolls of silk and not hol low, scratchy straw that bends and bulges in the breezes. A vase has certain parts such as the rim or lip, the neck, the body and the base. None of these can be ignor ed or entirely obscured without de stroying the beauty of the vase. The Chinese have made vases with a drag on or amorous bird twined about them but even they have not dared to make the dragon or the bird larger than the vase it ornaments. The style-maker in Paris had a pipe dream of a hat that was like a turban and was yet not a turban, of a hat that had no rim and no crown the two inalienable, unalterable character istics of a hat. When he awoke and reflected on his profane millinery nightmare, lie laughed and twisted straw and silk into the shapes he had seen it worn on tiie Brocken of his dream. The French women rebelled. Something of the obstinacy of the classic Greek is born in the French woman. Her hat must have a crown and brim, her skirts must retain the folds of pendant drapery. It is said that Paquin refused to make the sheath skirts of last winter, but gave always to the back breadths of his skirts the essential fulness. In France the high corset that makes the torso rigid has never been worn. The French women know better whatever the style. Like the Greek potter, however original the form and decoration, his vase was still a vase and conformed to the law of vases. At the present time the Parisienne's hat is not a nightmare of a turban. It has a brim and a crown and the feathers and ribbons and gauze are subordinated. Nebraska women lost their freedom long ago. They wear anything how ever unbecoming and absurd that comes from New York. Some of the richest and most knowing of the New York women insist upon a modifica tion in the season's shape, but women in the interior of the United States will still wear anything at all that they can be made to believe i chic. The over-loaded, heavy, formless things with no ancestry and no dig nity that till the shops now a-e unbe coming and if we were a free and in dependent sex they would stay in the shops. Why do the manufacturers, dealers and ntyle-makers not endeavor to dispoil the tyrant man of his right to a hat or a coat or a westcoat? Be cause in the last analysis the tailor, the haberdasher and the hatter are man's servants. Man has work to do and he must not be fettered. Woman has nothing to do but fascinate man. To accomplish this she will let ber feet be bound to lameness as in China, she will let her face be vailed as in Turkey, or as in America, where her anxiety to be fascinating has destroy ed her sense, she will wear any hid eous iiarness or emblem commanded by Vogue. Eric Hermannson's Soul. Miss Willa Catlier has poems in The Librarian, a poem in The Critic, the Saturday Evening Post has ac cepted a story and the current Cos mopolitan contains a story by Miss Gather called Eric Hermannson's Soul." Eric Hermannson is a Swede, with the blue eyes, yellow hair, and height ot the men in the Sagas. Near Red Cloud where Miss Gather's child hood was spent there is a large Nor wegian settlement and her stories of the Nebraska Norwegian though colored by a strong imagination are of the soil. "Eric came of a proud iisher line, men who were not afraid of anything but the ice and the devil. Eric was handsome as young Sieg fried, a giant in stature, witli a skin singularly pure and delicate, hair as delicate as the locks of Tennyson's amorous prince, and eyes of a fierce, burning blue whose flash was most dangerous to women. He had in those days" (of his first coming to Ne braska) "a certain pride of bearing, a certain confidence of approach, that usually accompanies physical perfec tion. It was even said of him then that he was in love with life, and in clined to levity a vice most unusual on the Divide. But the sad history of those Norwegian exiles, transplant ed in an arid soil arid under a scorch ing sun. had repeated itself in his case. Toil and isolation had sobered him and he grew more like the clods among which he labored. It is a painful thing to watch the light die out of the eyes of those Norsemen, leaving an impression of impenetra ble sadness, quite passive, quite hope less, a shadow that is never lifted. The change comes quickly or slowly according to the time it takes each man's heart to die." At the da.ice of the Norwegians: "Thegtris were all boisterous with doffglu. Pleasure