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12
THE COURIER
FASHION LETTER.
Lady Modish on Paris Models.
THE STYLES OF 1830 HAVE COME BACK
TO US.
My Paris budget has arrived !
The very latest news from the ateliers
of the French fashion-makers is mine.
I have had a private view of all the
new models I have been shown quan
tities of wonderful fabrics not yet open
to the public.
I have looked admiringly upon all the
new fancies in paste ornaments and
buttons, which are destined to play so
important a part in the ensemble of
almost every toilette that aims at perfec
tion this season.
I have seen so much, I have been to!d
so much, my brain is in a chiffon wheel
and my memory is simply staggering
under the weight of-the endless sartorial
items it is charged with.
Out of the chaotic collection of every
thing there arises the one great, indis
putable fact that each season the house
of Paquin is asserting more and more
its supremacy.
Last season it was Paquin who revo
lutionized the skirt just at the last
moment by introducing the box pleat
in the back, when every other modite
in Paris was building his or her models
on the plain tight lines of the season be
fore. This eeaBon Paquin has given his at
tention to revolutionizing the lines of
the sleeve', aud has gone back to the
year 1830 for his inspiration.
Every one of the Paquin models has
the perfectly flat shoulder and bell
ehapoJ sleeve of that period.
Many halt-sleeves, with 1830 under
sleeves in mull or lace, are shown on
Paquin models, but .not .one of thnJnng
straight, narrow sleeves that we are all
now wearing is to be found on models
bearing the name of Paquin on their
belt tape.
The other big, houses like Doucet,
Callor, Secure, Worth, eveo, immedi
ately upon the appearance of the Pa
quin 1830 sleeve, adopted it, in more or
leea modified form, to their models.
Paquin'e cleverness, in always being
able to design something new that will
render clothes of a season past unavail
able, is of such tremendous importance
to the exchequer of France think of
the enormous amount of American
money that will flow Pirisward via his
establishment ! that he has been recog
nized openly this year by the French
government. Paquin, who really re
j rices in the far less euphonious name
o Jacob?, has had the Legion of Honor
b stowed upon- him and has been ap
? WJ9m
J-' I IHzSEB
Irani
Made from the very best material. Warranted to be a
Good
and-economical of fuel. When in want of a new Cooking Stove
BUCKSTAEF BK0S. MFG. CO. LS
pointed commissioner of the Paris expo
sition !
Fancy an American dressmaker re-ceiving-eimilar-encouragement-from
the
American government !
Paquin endeavored to establish the
fashion of skirts with fullness about the
hips last season, but they did not meet
with much success.
Undaunted, however, he is still cling
ing to then this season, but it is not
certain that they will prevail.
Many of his skirts are as wide at the
top as they are at the bottom.
This means that trains must be
diminished, and all manners of pleats,
shirrings and tucks be used to dispose
of the upper fullness.
The tucked skirts are usually done in
chiffon or some other thin, light fabric.
They are held in place by motives cr
entredeux of hce Cluny lace prefer
ably. Cluny lace is in such demand, how
ever, that it is impossible in Paris to
fill the orders now on hand under six
weeks.
Boleros are still to be worr, and are
smart in taffeta, but the taffeta must be
embroidered in some fashion.
Everything must be as 1830 as possible
to be ihe dernier cri.
Sura Bernhardt is playing "Camille"
just now in Paris, and she is dressing it
absolutely on the 1830 lines, which
means that one must be smaller at the
shoulders than anywhere else, and from
the shoulders down the outline muBt ex
pand until the hem of the skit t marks
its widest point.
Not over-becoming line3, 1 mutt say,
but there they are, and we fcodieh ones
will proceed to adopt them to our own
peculiar style us best we may.
Velvet ribbons with their endB
clamped in gold are another Paquin in
novation, and they appear upon many
.of Ihe -models. 3?hey are very smart,
and prevent the ends from curling,
which is a happy inspiration.
Doucet and Callot have sent over sev
eral princesse gowns that are as straight
and as plain in their cut as possible.
One of the best is in white cloth appli
que a jonr in heavy lace.
The bodice has this lace put on to give
the appearauce of the universal bolero.
The smartest of the innumerable Bepa
rite boleros have collars of embroidered
basttste, edged with Cluny lace.
Medallions of embroidered bast is te
are used in may ways on various mate
rials. They are most difficult to obtain, and
promise to be among the moat exclusive
novelties of the season.
A great many of the models shown
have belts bo wide as to almost form
corslets.
This fashion was attempted last au-
s
NCIj0 Lincoln
gteel Range,
IS BETTER.THAN EVER
Bialcer -
tumn with little success
To only very tall, slim figures is this
wide belt possible for a moment, and
-tall, slim figures, alas ! are -possessed
only by the very fortunate few.
Many of the new coats for evening
wear are cut on 1830 lines, and seem a
bit groteeque at first, with their deep
dip in the front and short lines in the
back some of them that touch the
floor in the front, descending in the
back only half a yard or so below the
waist line.
A very good model built on these
lines is in tan Cluny always the inevi
table Cluny lace, strapped with
stitched bands of tan taffeta and lined
with chiffon of the same hue.
Many of the new skirts have a yoke
arrangement about the hips, done in a
design of lace or what you will, from
which fall the voluminous folds of the
material that forms the rest of the skirt.
This is another mode that is not pret
ty even when worn the best, and when
it is badly worn by women of short
stature, or much avoirdupois, it becomes
an impossibility. I can see no future
for it. la fact, mentally reviewing all
the new fads and fancies that I have
seen and that I can remember, the bell
sleeve is the only novelty that is likely
to play an important part in the spring
fashion show.
The half-sleeve, with its dainty under
sleeve, is going to appeal to everybody.
It is picturesque it is practical it ie
comfortable, and it is smart; and for its
revival alone I am sure Madame Paquin
deserves the praise of all of us "Mod
ishes," for it is she who makes these
big coups, you know; bo we will give her
our blessing, and let Monsieur Paquin
have his old Legion of Honor. Who
cares ? Lady Modish, in Town Topics.
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