v t
the cou:t.
11
THE PASSING OP THE SHEATH
SKIRT.
UnleES a woman's bank account be
beyond reproach sho must needs have a
eonee of humor. Fashion plays such
trlcsk. Tbis season it is skirts that are
cutting up antics. Two years ago it
was coats. The women who knew no
better bad valuable furs made up and
remade into Russian blouses in August
and Soptember, only to find before cold
weather had fairly set in, that the
pouched front and belted, peasantin
spired garment was the sign manual of
the ready-to-wear shopB and was ig
nored by the furriers of fashionable
women .
This Autumn the habit-backed skirt
hugged the delusion that it was good
for another season, until ever so many
women had added to their wardrobes
every dress they felt able to afford be
fore next Spring, and all of these were
made with an exaggeratedly mermaid
effect below the belt. But then, preBto!
every Paris establishment with a repu
tation for originality to maintain puts
forth a new skirt, and not one of them
with a smooth back,
No two of the new skirts are alike, but
all of them are so different from the
earliest models that there is bound to
be a tremendous run upon long coats to
cover the habit skirt's crestfallen as
pect. All of the late skirt models are
plaited. Those for cloth are plaited all
the way round upon some of the smart
est gotvns. Ab the plaits are generated
from a seamless and plaitless hip yoke,
consummate skill is required on the
part of the workpeople. Some of the
skirts for evening frocks in simulated
princess styles have a few plaits run
ning from the low-cut bodice top to the
edge of the train; these are over-lapped
with a second fabric, to carry out the
idea of one robe opening over another,
which is always good when cleverly
manipulated.
"f In the matter of coats and cloaks
tnere is UKeiy to do an iuuuuhmoq ui
of long garments, but well-dressed
women know that they are driving coats
traveling cloaks or full evening dress
cloaks, and will restrict their use to
those occasions, as do the English wo
men and French women for whom the
new models were first designed.
The women with xeally floe fur hats
feel, j naturally, enough, like throttling
the popular-priced milliners who have
flooded the town In a single week with
cheap and wretched imitations of the
handsome originals. But, after all, the
women who own the real sables, chin
chillas, etc., have only themselves to
blame. It they had refrained from ex
hibiting their frosty-weather modes
which is what fur hats and fur-trimmed
hats are solely till winter had arrived
they might then have worn their splen
dor undisturbed for a few weeks. But
no; out came the fur hatB while the
horsea were steaming and humanity
gasping with humidity, and as it was
juBt when the masses were wondering
what to buy, they immediately decided
to buy fur; and already, for every wo
man smartly gotten up in a sable decked
toque, they are fifty with top-heavy-looking
structures of Mephitis chinga
and other animate dyed in r'ovioua de
signs. The criterion of any toilet of preten
sion of tho day is the amount of hand
work upon it. Trimmings that are
roady mado and applied are often of
quite marvelous beauty; but in order to
bring n gown up to the standard of ele
Bunco demanded -by the times much
work muBt be done upon the dress mi
toriul. The cunningly wrought pro
ducts ot the nimble fingers of oversea
workers, who, whatever the faots in the
ciibo muy bo, turn out work that looks
rBB if tllQ wnrlrnra lnvcul It om nrt tnnmp
ei'nnly Bowed on; they must bo set in
uml mudu part and parcel of the fabric
by embroidery of one sort or another. It
adds furiously to the cost of a dress, of
course.
Out of a dozen elegant and elTectivo
evening frockfl, seen this week, two of
the Beveral notions introduced aro es
pecially' noteworthy. One ia very simple
the other very elaborate. One is a trim
ming made for a net gown from panne,
which is nothing more nor less than a
long pile velvet, really an evolution of
plush, only that does not sound fascinat
ing, and panne does. ThiB decoration
is made from a strip caught together
with needle and thread and art to form
a rose like petals, and giving in the end
a trailing bodice garniture of lustrous
effect.
The other is a laro bertha, long stole
to below the knees and circular skirt
trimming all woven in one, the lace
picked out here and there with faintly
iridescent paillettes. This is not simple
but very beautiful. Spangles en masse
are a survival, and savor of the stage ad
ventures, but, used with discretion mere
ly as a bit of high light here and there,
as they are on some of the newest frocks
they are their own excuse for staying on
after they had been told that their wel
come was quite worn out. Minute cue
jets and imitation pearls as effective as
the real gemB are used in the embroider
ies on handsome reception gowns.
But these are things that are. Among
the things to be, and that shortly, are
slightly low necks on all indoor gownB,
including day frockb, and these accom
pany, in the designs now being made
ready, sleeves that hug the arm at the
elbow and stop there without so much
as a frill. Town Topics.
Wanted Several persons for district
office managers in this state to represent
me in their own and surrounding coun
ties. Willing to pay yearly 1000, pay
able weekly. Desirable employment
with unusual opportunities. References
exchanged. Enclose selt-addreesed
stamped envelope. 8, A. Park, 5J20
Caxton Building, Obicago.
FOR SALE.
STwo choke residence lots, best location.
East Lincoln, 100 foot front only $700 (easy
worth 91000). A beautiful modern home,
East Lincoln, 8 rooms $2,600. A hand
some 9 room modern cottage, only two
blocks from State Capitol, at a big bargain.
Get my complete list. H.GYoung,
Brownell bflu Phone 806.
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