The courier. (Lincoln, Neb.) 1894-1903, October 28, 1899, Page 11, Image 11

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    THE COURIER
11
FASHKDN LETTER.
ri'HB ARISTOCRATIC FIGURE AND
uovv it is clothed
tiiisauiumV
Tbo Hat bnclc ia fnshion'e latcn flat.
Whon naturo tries to tuako ono tho re
sult is generally an Albert Durer typo
ot figure. Tbo fdBbionnblo flat back
stops being 11 it at tho wniet lino, whoi o
tho naturally flat back bocoinos stub,
bornly poretstont, and thoro curves
adorxb'y Tho fashionable flat back is
piquant. It is a trillo exaggerated ull
Btiiart fathions nro but it adds somr
thing indolinablo to the figure and car
riugo. Carriage ia fo vaetly important
in style. The woman who does not
enrry herself after the fashion that th's
puason, in more wajs than one, is "good
form" cannot acquire the fetching plant
of tho military back. Without it tho
frocks of tho day are powerless to rauke
thnir wearer quite fit.
Tho aristocratic typo of Hgure now in
vogue ia not produced by much practice
in tho gymnasium. It did not tain
woaion loag to note that thy consolation
prizes for lack ot beauty belong t'j wo
men who pr.83 much of their time ma
nu'uvriug with rings and poles and ropo
hddors ct al. Such women becomo
agile; they aro almost nsver graceful;
tlioy never have beautiful flguros. Tho
fashionitblo back that S5 completely
oliminatcs tho awful corset lino with
which tho "lobster backed'1 women eend
miikerB of dhtinguo gowns to an un
timely gravo is acquitod by tho svelt
figure bimply through learning to Btacd
and sit and walk well. When advanc
ing years and indolenco have deposited
their buiden of flesh bd hopelessly at
vaiinnco with olegance, this must bo an
nihilated. Apropos of which, it is
worth noting that the ph)eiciats in ex
traordinary to tho Court ocd of tho
town have, as ono man, added lo their
favorito pirrcriptioDB for matrons tbo
1 itcBt autidoto for embonpoint Vichy
-and K'iF6icgon on ul tomato dEys.
Tho fashionable walk is akiu to tho
glido beloved of tho novolista whrn Iho
century was young. It is not learned
whero caddies congregate. The trailing,
clinging, mermaid, silhouette robes of
tho reigning mode era absurdly out of
harmony with any other than a leisuroly
sorpontino movemont; a Jane Hading
method of moving. I had almrut writ
ton a Mrs. James Drown Potter manner;
but Mrs. Potter has never reached tho
perfection of art that enables her to
hide that sho 13 "raummoring,'' whether
on or off tho Gtige. It is an art that is
not common in good society. In Ameri
can sochty, so far as tho North is con
cernod it is practically unknown. In
tho South? Well, yos, hero and there,
lhltiinore? Hardly. In New Orleans,
nnro likoly. ErapresB JoEophine, I itn
fiino, had it to perfection.
Out ot tho fog of uncertainty that on
eompussos tho now fashions of any Bea
ton for tho first fow weeks Borao conclu
sions havo bogun to emerge. They are
not gratifying to those silly birds of
passage who annually comfort tho
popularly known establishment in Parip,
London, and Vienna by buying all thoir
lurbishod-up loftovera and uninspired
L'ncoctiotiB of the dead Boason. Tho
high prioataand priosteBsesof tho most
exclusively patronizod tomples of fashion
"re not infallible They do not evon
'laiin to bo oracles for longer than tho
iinujoiliuto presont. Thoy rofuso to
prophesy in August what will be tho
best stylo in October. Tho koy-noto of
fuBhion today is originality. Popularity
tho death knell of u style, so far as tho
ull droEBod woman is concerned. She
1 1) 1 ingor luifl her wordrobo mado up at
tin beginning of thosoaEon. Sho orders
t tho beginning of that Boason moroly
wlmtBhu thon uocd?. After the herd
'' is suloutod ita wardrobo tho women
who may bo correctly called fashion
lenders plnco their ordors for something,
quite ualiko tbo B;y!os to bo mot at
every turu.
How utterly dowdy tho streot dresses
of drawing-room length, mado soveral
weeks ngo, look beeidj tho latest word
in walking dresses! Theso tscapo tho
ground all around and, with tho speci
ally designod coat and toque, havo no
end of chic. Tho majority of womon do
not discriminate botwoon tho shoot
drees for carriage use and tho Btroet
dres3 for walking. A goddeB3 cannot
look well groomod in a skirt that Jb soil
ed about tho bottom. A walking skirt
must lo soiled if it touches tho ground.
A trailing ekirt that is hold up to pre
vent it being soilod becomes crumploJ
and frumpy. The skirt designed to
sweep mutt Bwoop. Honce tho new
walking skirts that aro noithor storm
frocks ncr golf frocks, but made after
designs expraaaly planned for thn city
st reefs aro not for tho freedom of tho
roil djwnsor tho artificial links.
Nine hundred and ninety-nino out of
a thou-und PariB models of gowns made
for Americans show tho sheath buck
and tbo train that is little elso but a
tail. Tho exclusive dosignors in Paris,
hownvir, aio boginning to dopart from
IhcBa outlines, introducing something of
fulnces at the center of tho back cf
Bkiits, and makirg on gowns for formal
occasions trains spread out generously
insterd of collapsing liko a wet Hag on a
windless day.
If ono sees it in Paris it i6 not neces
sarily 60. Paris exhibits some weirdly
dressed womon who are expensively
clothed. No city on earth, either,
marks so radically in it? dress the bot
tomless abjss between its womon of the
upper class and tSo women who are un
clasped. But, none the less, Paris is the
b'rthpluco of every new style. London
has never launched a stylo unaided,
Now York's host dre3Btnakers and tail
ors make their gowns better than tho
FroLsh d and cleverly adapt Wrisian
ideas as woll as adopt them. But New
Yoik has nover introduced a really now
stylo yot. The first departuro from a
reigning mode is mado in Paris, and so,
when Paris says enough of a given st)lo
that 13 tho beginning of tbo end of it.
New evening bodices aro very low
(vory, very low), without a vestige of
Bleeves, and kept in placo mtroly by
shoulder straps ot jewels. ThU is a
daringly handsome style on a Diana,
when tho jewels suit her. A wisp ot
lacn worth as much as several stones,
worn over one shoulder, relieves some
what tho tonsion of tho beholJer, es
pecially ono who recalls that shocking
Drawicg-Roora when Mrs. 's rLjht
shoulder strap of pearls broko during
her curtsey, and when, in her involun
tiryiff rt to catch the pearls, tho loft
ono broko. Her Majesty, it will be re
called, covered the outcomo with hor
own laco Bbawl and gavo orders that
nover again should anyone be presented
to hor with so little besides confusion
to shield hor in the event of a jeweler's
bad workmanship precipitating a situa
tion. Low-neck6d , 'dresses aro going to bo
worn moro than over before in this
country. Nobody has over dovieed any
thing so becoming to tho faco and head
as a lovely nock and shoulders. A high
nockod gown simply makoa a hat im
poratlvo to cast tho becoming shadow?,
which u dress that swathes tho wearer
to the oars makes necessary.
It would bo hard to understand why
such a vory email minority of tho
woman in Now York who dress expen
sively take advantage ot tho unequal
ed charm of low-nockod gowns, if thoro
wero not tho depressing facts of tbo
cjmparativoly small numbor of prlvato
stablos, tho olimato so intemperate tho1,
horeo ownerj dislike to take fino animals
out much of tho time, and tho unpnrab
?
liMtSyiul
SURVEYORS
Makes THE BURLINGTON the short
est line from foincoln to Denver.
dlN
The Heavy Steel Rails, well ballasted
Track and
J NI3W POVVBJRFUI. EJIVGIJVlS J j
Makes this line the quicker by 3 hours and
5 minutes than any other Lincoln Denver line
MAKE A NOTE OF Tins. "Time is Money"
and you will save it.
I City Ticket Officef
G ft 3
g Burlington Depot I
I Cor. 10 and O sts I Q 7th bet. P. & Q.J
I Telephone 235 & Telephone 25. g
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749
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Wc carry a
stock of goods
valued at
(1,500,000.00
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receive ErJv
I0,000lo -s
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from 1
25.000
every day
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We own and occupy Ve taltect mercantile building in the world. Wc have
over 3,000,0m customers. Sixteen hundred clerks are constantly
engaged filling out-of-town orders.
OUR OENERAL CATALOGUE is the book of the people It quotes
Co.ooo descriptions of articles with prices. It costs 73 cents to print and mail 9j
cncli ennv. We wnnt von to hnvn nni. SENn RIPTRR.N r.F.NTS n hu ri
L your good faithand we'll oend you o copy FREE, with all charges prepaid. 1 JJ
.MONTGOMERY WARD & C0lM,chl0an?cdAMQ'oi"n8,rM,
We are selling a great many fur
collarettes.
We have them in all the most fash
ionable furs of the very latest shapes
at moderate prices. Electric seal
$2.75, $4.75, $5.00, $6.00, and $7.00. Electric seal with
strakhan yokes $5, $6, and $8.50. Astrakhan $5, $3 and
$8.50. Monkey $7.50 and $9. Brown Martin 10 in., $18,
$20 and $22, Marten with tabs and tails 30, $40 and $50.
Stone Marten $18. Bear $30. Mink $30 and .$42.50. Per
sian lamb with black Lynx $47.50 each.
For ladies' ready-to-wear outer garments of any description;
we invite you to our cloak and suit department. ; -
MILbR& PAINgJ