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About The courier. (Lincoln, Neb.) 1894-1903 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 28, 1899)
THE COURIER 11 FASHKDN LETTER. ri'HB ARISTOCRATIC FIGURE AND uovv it is clothed tiiisauiumV Tbo Hat bnclc ia fnshion'e latcn flat. Whon naturo tries to tuako ono tho re sult is generally an Albert Durer typo ot figure. Tbo fdBbionnblo flat back stops being 11 it at tho wniet lino, whoi o tho naturally flat back bocoinos stub, bornly poretstont, and thoro curves adorxb'y Tho fashionable flat back is piquant. It is a trillo exaggerated ull Btiiart fathions nro but it adds somr thing indolinablo to the figure and car riugo. Carriage ia fo vaetly important in style. The woman who does not enrry herself after the fashion that th's puason, in more wajs than one, is "good form" cannot acquire the fetching plant of tho military back. Without it tho frocks of tho day are powerless to rauke thnir wearer quite fit. Tho aristocratic typo of Hgure now in vogue ia not produced by much practice in tho gymnasium. It did not tain woaion loag to note that thy consolation prizes for lack ot beauty belong t'j wo men who pr.83 much of their time ma nu'uvriug with rings and poles and ropo hddors ct al. Such women becomo agile; they aro almost nsver graceful; tlioy never have beautiful flguros. Tho fashionitblo back that S5 completely oliminatcs tho awful corset lino with which tho "lobster backed'1 women eend miikerB of dhtinguo gowns to an un timely gravo is acquitod by tho svelt figure bimply through learning to Btacd and sit and walk well. When advanc ing years and indolenco have deposited their buiden of flesh bd hopelessly at vaiinnco with olegance, this must bo an nihilated. Apropos of which, it is worth noting that the ph)eiciats in ex traordinary to tho Court ocd of tho town have, as ono man, added lo their favorito pirrcriptioDB for matrons tbo 1 itcBt autidoto for embonpoint Vichy -and K'iF6icgon on ul tomato dEys. Tho fashionable walk is akiu to tho glido beloved of tho novolista whrn Iho century was young. It is not learned whero caddies congregate. The trailing, clinging, mermaid, silhouette robes of tho reigning mode era absurdly out of harmony with any other than a leisuroly sorpontino movemont; a Jane Hading method of moving. I had almrut writ ton a Mrs. James Drown Potter manner; but Mrs. Potter has never reached tho perfection of art that enables her to hide that sho 13 "raummoring,'' whether on or off tho Gtige. It is an art that is not common in good society. In Ameri can sochty, so far as tho North is con cernod it is practically unknown. In tho South? Well, yos, hero and there, lhltiinore? Hardly. In New Orleans, nnro likoly. ErapresB JoEophine, I itn fiino, had it to perfection. Out ot tho fog of uncertainty that on eompussos tho now fashions of any Bea ton for tho first fow weeks Borao conclu sions havo bogun to emerge. They are not gratifying to those silly birds of passage who annually comfort tho popularly known establishment in Parip, London, and Vienna by buying all thoir lurbishod-up loftovera and uninspired L'ncoctiotiB of the dead Boason. Tho high prioataand priosteBsesof tho most exclusively patronizod tomples of fashion "re not infallible They do not evon 'laiin to bo oracles for longer than tho iinujoiliuto presont. Thoy rofuso to prophesy in August what will be tho best stylo in October. Tho koy-noto of fuBhion today is originality. Popularity tho death knell of u style, so far as tho ull droEBod woman is concerned. She 1 1) 1 ingor luifl her wordrobo mado up at tin beginning of thosoaEon. Sho orders t tho beginning of that Boason moroly wlmtBhu thon uocd?. After the herd '' is suloutod ita wardrobo tho women who may bo correctly called fashion lenders plnco their ordors for something, quite ualiko tbo B;y!os to bo mot at every turu. How utterly dowdy tho streot dresses of drawing-room length, mado soveral weeks ngo, look beeidj tho latest word in walking dresses! Theso tscapo tho ground all around and, with tho speci ally designod coat and toque, havo no end of chic. Tho majority of womon do not discriminate botwoon tho shoot drees for carriage use and tho Btroet dres3 for walking. A goddeB3 cannot look well groomod in a skirt that Jb soil ed about tho bottom. A walking skirt must lo soiled if it touches tho ground. A trailing ekirt that is hold up to pre vent it being soilod becomes crumploJ and frumpy. The skirt designed to sweep mutt Bwoop. Honce tho new walking skirts that aro noithor storm frocks ncr golf frocks, but made after designs expraaaly planned for thn city st reefs aro not for tho freedom of tho roil djwnsor tho artificial links. Nine hundred and ninety-nino out of a thou-und PariB models of gowns made for Americans show tho sheath buck and tbo train that is little elso but a tail. Tho exclusive dosignors in Paris, hownvir, aio boginning to dopart from IhcBa outlines, introducing something of fulnces at the center of tho back cf Bkiits, and makirg on gowns for formal occasions trains spread out generously insterd of collapsing liko a wet Hag on a windless day. If ono sees it in Paris it i6 not neces sarily 60. Paris exhibits some weirdly dressed womon who are expensively clothed. No city on earth, either, marks so radically in it? dress the bot tomless abjss between its womon of the upper class and tSo women who are un clasped. But, none the less, Paris is the b'rthpluco of every new style. London has never launched a stylo unaided, Now York's host dre3Btnakers and tail ors make their gowns better than tho FroLsh d and cleverly adapt Wrisian ideas as woll as adopt them. But New Yoik has nover introduced a really now stylo yot. The first departuro from a reigning mode is mado in Paris, and so, when Paris says enough of a given st)lo that 13 tho beginning of tbo end of it. New evening bodices aro very low (vory, very low), without a vestige of Bleeves, and kept in placo mtroly by shoulder straps ot jewels. ThU is a daringly handsome style on a Diana, when tho jewels suit her. A wisp ot lacn worth as much as several stones, worn over one shoulder, relieves some what tho tonsion of tho beholJer, es pecially ono who recalls that shocking Drawicg-Roora when Mrs. 's rLjht shoulder strap of pearls broko during her curtsey, and when, in her involun tiryiff rt to catch the pearls, tho loft ono broko. Her Majesty, it will be re called, covered the outcomo with hor own laco Bbawl and gavo orders that nover again should anyone be presented to hor with so little besides confusion to shield hor in the event of a jeweler's bad workmanship precipitating a situa tion. Low-neck6d , 'dresses aro going to bo worn moro than over before in this country. Nobody has over dovieed any thing so becoming to tho faco and head as a lovely nock and shoulders. A high nockod gown simply makoa a hat im poratlvo to cast tho becoming shadow?, which u dress that swathes tho wearer to the oars makes necessary. It would bo hard to understand why such a vory email minority of tho woman in Now York who dress expen sively take advantage ot tho unequal ed charm of low-nockod gowns, if thoro wero not tho depressing facts of tbo cjmparativoly small numbor of prlvato stablos, tho olimato so intemperate tho1, horeo ownerj dislike to take fino animals out much of tho time, and tho unpnrab ? liMtSyiul SURVEYORS Makes THE BURLINGTON the short est line from foincoln to Denver. dlN The Heavy Steel Rails, well ballasted Track and J NI3W POVVBJRFUI. EJIVGIJVlS J j Makes this line the quicker by 3 hours and 5 minutes than any other Lincoln Denver line MAKE A NOTE OF Tins. "Time is Money" and you will save it. I City Ticket Officef G ft 3 g Burlington Depot I I Cor. 10 and O sts I Q 7th bet. P. & Q.J I Telephone 235 & Telephone 25. g 9&S&S uu(sisysysvsysvsv7s -w " w vVV-E W V Tj 749 n Wc carry a stock of goods valued at (1,500,000.00 SSI receive ErJv I0,000lo -s ICIICII T's ?? We from 1 25.000 every day Ste. I? zr,m ii":;j litllllfi '!!!! niiitUJUitt I ie asisS ft sain a .XBases: luaasau: Dun-!!! !Tt Till. ''JifcTW ml i?jia,J."'N m &fr jjisJni -J We own and occupy Ve taltect mercantile building in the world. Wc have over 3,000,0m customers. Sixteen hundred clerks are constantly engaged filling out-of-town orders. OUR OENERAL CATALOGUE is the book of the people It quotes Co.ooo descriptions of articles with prices. It costs 73 cents to print and mail 9j cncli ennv. We wnnt von to hnvn nni. SENn RIPTRR.N r.F.NTS n hu ri L your good faithand we'll oend you o copy FREE, with all charges prepaid. 1 JJ .MONTGOMERY WARD & C0lM,chl0an?cdAMQ'oi"n8,rM, We are selling a great many fur collarettes. We have them in all the most fash ionable furs of the very latest shapes at moderate prices. Electric seal $2.75, $4.75, $5.00, $6.00, and $7.00. Electric seal with strakhan yokes $5, $6, and $8.50. Astrakhan $5, $3 and $8.50. Monkey $7.50 and $9. Brown Martin 10 in., $18, $20 and $22, Marten with tabs and tails 30, $40 and $50. Stone Marten $18. Bear $30. Mink $30 and .$42.50. Per sian lamb with black Lynx $47.50 each. For ladies' ready-to-wear outer garments of any description; we invite you to our cloak and suit department. ; - MILbR& PAINgJ