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About The courier. (Lincoln, Neb.) 1894-1903 | View Entire Issue (July 23, 1898)
12 THE COURIER. Fashions of the Day. After several seasons of tentative ex periments and weighty controversies, the eucceefor of the mancbe-ballonno has finally surprised us, in a spirit of truly feminine contrariness; it appears neith er puffed, epauletted, nor yet skin tighf and shows no intention tof immediately indicting upon mondaines the long-predicted sloping line of shoulder of the "sixties," for all fashion's sudden de light in the shawl wraps of the Second Eoapire. The sleeve that molds the contour of fashionable shoulders this summer is called the sabot, after a fancied resem blance to that article of peasant garb narrow at the elbow, swelling gradually, closely, but not tightly, and curving over at the top a wee bit -j p and away from the shoulder, its lines unbroken by jockey or trimming of any sort other than flat bands. The forearm of the sleeve is very long and very tight, or the sleeve ends at the elbow a pretty fashion for summer that we are glad to welcome back as a fitting accompani ment to the chokerlees bodices which we are to wear again this season with the becoming feathtr boas, or with the lees becoming but more gorgeous jew eled dog collars. Even lace and muslin frocks have these plain sabot s'eevee, and they are especially pretty with guimpe dresses which have only the straps of the bodice crossing the should ers over the favorite tucked and puck ered and embroidered bit of fashionable lingerie. Quits as radical is the latest departure in hats. The spring season in London and Paris, even the earl:er gayetiea on the Riviera (which naturally dictate fashions for our later Newport and Bar Harbor seasons) have ousted the bat tipped over the nose and overladen with towering hedges of trimming, quite as completely as though it never had been, in favor of the simple round straw with a nosegay of flowers and a small wat teau bow of black velvet. The Parisi eane, since the time of -the Austrian," fond of the affectation of simplicity, styles it the Chaperu Bergere. In detail, this hat is low and flat of crown, small of brim, save in front, where it broadens considerably and is turned flatly back against the crown and fastened there with various simple trimmings, which constitute the princi pal garniture; a nosegay of flowers tied with bow, or a huge wheel rosette of satin, with a jeweled centre, which serves as a base for a short plume or a couple of wide curled quills, these leathers lying flat against the brim and drooping rather than standing. Some times the front brim turns back in a square instead of remaining round, and against it is placed a wheel rosette, from which springs to each side a spangled white Mercury wing. Two ostrich feathers are sometimes arranged in the same way. On another one a white plume is thrust throagh the pompon of tulle against the front brim, the top rolling back over the crown. As for the back of the hat, which is very small and in conspicuous, the band of black volvet ribbon, with its tiny bow behind, is sufficient to give it cachet. A wreath of tiny blossoms is occarionally aubstitut-, ed tor the ribbon band, I have noticed in my wanderings, and often the brim is brand with black velvet. On very yosng girls the Mack velvet band has two long streamers hanging from the small Louis XV bow behind, the coarse straw, with its bound edges and its nosegay of field flowers effecting a child kke simplicity which k quite la grand chic, even for seasoned belles, in a sum wf when sun-bonnets and frilled and pnffed mob capsot plaited muslin have: ceased being the popalar property of babyhood. Natnrally these shepherdess hats are, get bck en the bead, showing ia front Snlnno-Saline Sanitarium, Cor. Ibtlx and AJT All Kinds of Baths Scientific Masseurs. A Deep Sea Pool, 50x142 feet. Shaving- Hairdressing-. Drs. Everett, Managing- Physicians. the high, bunchy bang of short ringlets which is gradually, on the hyper-fashionable, taking the place of the sightly de mode pompadour. The distinct puff on each temple, the undulating bouffan terie of "back hair," with the short, cur ly coil on the top of the bead, tall retain their places in the mondaine's coiffure, so that the effect of the new arrange ment is much the same, and many still declare they will not cut, for the sake of so slight a modification, the aureole o? long locks which took bo much time and attention to train to their present perfec tion of growth. A little bat that I saw worn in Sar dou's "Pamela" this spring in Paris was sent down to me at the Midi by my mo diste a few weeks later as the correct af ternoon bonnet of course, a version rather than a copy of the Directoire original as worn on the French stage. It is one of the favorites among the sum mer's imported hats, and is not only modish, but small and "lady like" look ing, a good old-fashioned characteristic that is too often neglected in the effort to be "smart. Its narrow brim bends down on each side against the hair, the front scooping up a litMe to curve over the pompadour, the back brim wider and bent directly upward, but in a round scoop that is filled in with the curly coil on top of head, this back flare being the highest point on the little hat. The trimming is simple and low, usually a wheel rosette of tulle or satin on one side and a round bunch of small blossoms on the other. I have seen the black brim filled in with small flowers where the coil of hair was arranged too low on the head to serve as a cache-peigne . I find my large Spanish comb of shell effective, set below the coil when I wear this little head dress. Of course we shall still wear our large tul'e and guipure turbans low over the face, the oriental buckle in front just between the brows and showing no hair, saveputfily, on the temples. And the equestrienne is still in favor with the elegant dressers, although in a new shape that has not yet become vulgar ized. Its side brims are flat instead of being-rolled up, and the front brim droops so low and so gracefully over the face that little cubbyholes on-each side under the hat form nestling places for small blossoms, others clambeing over the narrow back brim. It partakes of the picturesque rather than of the man nish and tailor-built, as the word eques trienne implies. There is a perfect epidemic of shaped flounces and the contagion spreads from skirt to cape, from cape to shawl wrap, from wrap to coat and jacket with de lightful consistency, and many fetching! if slightly bizarre, surprises. We have already become so familiar with the skirt, which by reason of its clever IMIIMMMMMIMMMIIIMIIIIIIIMMMIIMIMMMOIMIMMIIIMIIIMMMMII Now is the time to buy the MUCH ULUHT GAS 111 S1.50 Complete put up. Cultra & Underwood, I PLUMBING, GAS FITTING ana a&wtr(Ajfc. 134 South. Twelfth Street. Telephone 345. j ' i MIMHIIMMIIMIMtlllMHIIMMIIMmMIMMMIMIMMMimiMMIIMMUl r Mil MM HO ill CO. 508 North Fourteenth St. Sells all kinds of fresh vegetables and strawberries at lowest prices for honest goods. Three car loads of best flour bought before the ad vance. Our prices are right. flounce clings to the limbs and spreads out in undulating flutes about the feet lying in little heaps on the sides and back, that we are already fearful of Va speedy day of contempt. On the shawl wrap the shaped flounce is at its best, while it imparts to the mannish box or great coat a touch of the Gallic esprit, which is all the more surprising, coming at it does from an English tailor.) The short driving-box which has led me to theee reflectiyns has a shaped flounce of a foot width about the bot tom edge, lengthening it to what is called a three-quarter garmeut, the front unflounced and fastened up the left aide with three shell buttoms, a cir cular shoulder collar taking the place of coat collar and lapels, the sleeves, as are the stitched edges and seams, eminent ly correct tailor affairs. While a yacht ing coat which I shall have for Co wee in the autumn is to be of white serge with a full-shaped flounce cut in piece with the double-breasted front.the whole lined with white satin, which is to be puck ered on the facing of collar and lapels. A fold of white satin will bead the' flounce, the p3arl buttons sewn on this where it mounts each side of the front. MwMwIwIMMIvM ner pent: ox, all LEATHER GOODS Now is the time to buy up to daie shoes at a low S price. VnMIMNlelNsttfH "Just think of Chicago being for four days without a newspaper,'.' said Jinks. "I don't believe it ever happened, said Binks. "It s a canard to make the city appear attractive to residents. -S" !fe
