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An Attractive Model for a Dancing Gown for the Early
Autumn. A New Note Is Struck in the Broad, Shirred
Bands and Sash-Like Train of Black Taffeta.
LADY DUFFjGORDON. the famou "Lucile" of London,
and foremost creator of fashions in the worid, writes each
week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all
that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishments are at Nos. 37
and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York, and No, 1400 Lake
Shore Drive. Chicago.
By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile")
' NSTEAD of describing my own designs to you In our chat to-day, I am
j going to give you a peep at a few of the first Pall fashions as they are
shown In these photographs, whloh have been banded to me for my
comment July Is not too early to consider the modes of Autumn. There Is
a proverb concerning the fate of the forehanded. It should Include the
person of foresight. Far vision Is an excellent thing. A forecast of the
modes permits us to survey our present wardrobe and weigh the proba
bilities of how many of our garments, or parts of them, are convertible
for next season's wearing Or whether It will be necessary to lay them
aside to await more revolutions of the wheel of time to bring them up
again Into usefulness.
An early forecast of the next season also determines whether one
shall complete the wearing possibilities of a gown or wrap, or whether
she shall give it the tender and saving care which will carry It forward
as material for a foundation, at least, for next season's gowns,
I surprised the women who came t m the cities and corners of this
country to the Biennial Convention of the Federation of Women's Clubs
in New York by my stand that I did not favor easting away a gown that
had done service, provided It were still good. I said: "You can wear
a gown for six seasons, provided your boot and hat are smart," I meant
tt and take this occasion to repeat it,
1 What may we gather from this first showing of Autumn
Cashlons, this firstmstle, aait were,.of Autumn leavest First,
ttU apparent that sklrU win be not quit 0 voluminous. They ' si mm
win glva the appearance of a plentltude of fabric but wilt not
talk so large as to make a woman seem built on a much more
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This Shows How the Autumn Girl of 1916 Will Look on
Her Way to the Opera. The Shoulder-Wide Bow la
a Picturesque Addition to the Short, Straight
Wrap of Burgundy Colored Silk.
IIS f 1 i '
Reversion to the
Classic Motive
Is Apparent in This
Graceful
Evening Gown
of White Chiffon,
Fur Bordered.
CawrlgM I0IS. bf tht Star rmpn 0rf Rrtfatt Rtftin R.rf
ample scale than she Is. For which every woman whose weight exceeds
120 pounds will be deeply grateful.
Also the trend of evidence-la that It Win be another two-OMnore-shades-in-one
garment season. Combinations, as we read the signs In
the fashion heavens, will still be popular. There Is no Indication that
we will return to the somewhat Quakerish mode of one tone la a town,
unrelieved by a note of other color.
1 The gown of dancing length shown here is a good Index of the sea
son whose threshold Is still remote. It Is" built of white embroidered
tulle. It follows rather closely the lines of the upper half of the figure.
The garniture of black shirred taffeta in broad horlsontal bands, and
the sashlike drapery of the same material, are strikingly effective.
Chic and charming Is the evening wrap that falls In straight, full'
folds of burgundy colored Silk, in five-eighth figure length, from the
shoulders. A picturesque effect is secured by the shoulder-wide bow Of
black velvet, attached to which are large golden clasps, that secure the
wrap at the throat. It Is a modified cape, of the graceful fulness of an
Inverness. The shoulders are built widely with a lavish arrangement el
the silk. An enormous aureole of white ostrich plumes lends further
plcturesqueness to the wearer.
In marked contrast to these effects Is the simple stateliness secured
by the more formal gown pictured on the lower part of the page. It Is in
such a gown Venus would have been pleased to present herself to a court
of adorers. Or would tt have better suited Minerva's more severe style?
I think it might. But It has tenure yet regal simplicity, that starts
the mind traversing the wide halls amidst the marbles of old Greece.
The robe Is of Ivory satin In chastest lines, almost reminiscent of the
nearly forgotten tight skirt ThU severity la relieved by the long tunic
that falls, almost slips, from the shoulders. The tunlo Is of white chiffon
with a three-inch-wide border of sable. Buch an arrangement "of less
expensive fur would also be effective, I predict thai this lovely model
will be reproduced, say In light blue, with bands of chinchilla or mole
akin, In pale rose with borders of sealskin or mink. In green, possibly,
with a border of the not to be despised squirrel .
The coiffure, If we accept these hints from wisdom, will be close aa
sleek, of the kind to show to advantage the well formed head. There
may be much garniture, or little or none, for (his is an age when In
dividuality la-recognised. Taste reigns.