V "t
The Om&ma Sunday Bee Magazine Paqe
4
i
t,
hmk L esf J tout
nil . s ' ILWi
CPM : . j
K
(
hL
Albert Malsin, (he Mechanical Kn
Kineer Who Hag Made a Helen
Uflc Study of ".Stout" Women
and Their Clothes.
By Albert Malsin, M. E.
(Polytcchnlo Institute, Cothen, Anhelt,
Germany.)
IN my two previous artlclea I have
explained how the atout woman
ran create th moat decided Illualon of
height, grace and alendcrneaa almply by
applying to her gowna "llnea" which are
In accordance with certain wallknown
clentlfle principle!.
To-dar 1 m to how h"w tnl
illualon can be heightened by the com
blnation wltb these "llnea" of the proper
tolori and materiala.
Whether ahe be flout or not, wom
an good taate ahould be her only guide
to tbe colora alio wcara. What colora
her good taate select will depend upon
the coloring of ber balr, eyea and akin,
rerfect harmony of color from bead to
foot 1 what the atout woman rnuat In
alat upon even more emphatically than
her alender eluter.
Before aclence began turning Its at
tention to the problem of clothing her,
(be atout woman weed to think that
black waa the aafeat color ahe could
wear, Tbla waa a aad tnlatake.
Black not only fail to minimize the
ttrwt woman'a generoua p'oportlona, but
make them appear larger, H aleo give
her an unpleaaanfly woeful appearance,
a if ahe were eternally bewailing the
heavy fold of flcab with which Nature
haa upholatcred her figure.
Black la a very trying color even for
ihose who are not atout. Few women
ran wear It aucceaafully unleae their
youth and beauty are like an American
Ifc-auty rose In full bloom.
White la aomething the atout woman
hat alwaya felt ahe could never wear.
Hut it la quite possible for her If her
gowna are designed on the pror'
"line." ,
The lack of color harmony In the ap
parel of many women la due to the
waaknea of their color aenae. Their
knowledge of color la limited to the
three primary colora red, yellow and
blue and they underatand little or noth
ing about the varioua eecondary and ter
tiary ahadee which are formed from
these.
Much women, when choosing ft net or
Itown, would do well to atudy the uaeful
color chart whlrh la reproduced on thta
page. Thla chart ahowa at ft glance all
the more Important colora and telle you
which barmonlne with one toother and
which do not.
' The central dlec In thla chart repre
nta black or the ahaence of color.
Blark will harmonisse with any color.
Next come the three primary colore
red, yellow nd blue. From different
comblnatlona of then are evolved alt
the hundreda of ahadea and tonea found
In woroen'a clothing.
All ihe colore named In the chart on
a white background go well together.
Thla la aleo true of those on the atlppled
background and of thoae on the line'
background. Vor example, red harmon
tr.ea with green, purple with yellow and
blue tin gray. j
On the eidee or uia eeconnary ami
tertiary colora are ahowa varioua tonea
whtrh are produced by changing the
proportion of their conatltuent part.
Thua. bv Imreaslng the proportion of
Pounds Suhstracted from Their Apparent
Weight, Inches Added to Their Seeming
Height, hy Constructing Their Clothing
in Accordance with Certain. Weil
Known Scientific Principles
X'' " y I '
... :
ih ' rv J
I , fii'' i In t
i- 1 1
.' ..:(, , I - , I
' A'Ak -. . 'jJ$k
lJr C:
fjy
OLIVE
F.vtn a
Woman
a "Stout"
as Mbu Amelia
Summervllle
Wan When
ThU
rhotosrraph
Waa Made
Can Dresg
in the
Height of
I'Hshion and
Look Jxnn
"Htout"
Than Hhe
Iteaily In.
This Interesting and Valuable Chart Shows the "Stout" Wo
man How to Select Colors Which Harmonize and
Therefore Make Her Look Less "Stout."
The Central Dine Represents IMack Which Harmonizes with Every Color.
Outside Thla Are the Three Primary ColorsRed, Yellow and Blue.
Then Come the Varioua Secondary and Tertiary Tints and Shades.
Vellovr and the Various Colora Which Harmonize with It
Are Indicated on While liackgrounds; Red and Its liar
monious Colors, on Lined Hackgrounds; Blue and
Ita Harmonious Colora on Dotted backgrounds.
On the Left a "Stout" Woman in Clothing That Is as Unscientific as It Is
Unfashionable and That Makes Her Look Far Larger In Kvery Way.
, On the Right the Same Woman in a Suit Which Is Extremely
Fashionable and Whose Lines, Color and Materials Have
Keen So Intelligently Selected and Arranged That It
Accentuates the Good Point of Her Figure and
Hides the Had Ones.
blue In It, green bernmee peacock ortur
quolae. Fly Increaalng the proportion of
yellow we get the various yellow greonn,
aurh aa Nile, apple, etc,
The primary colora cannot be produced
by the mixture of colora, but by nilalng
yellow, red and blue In the proper pro-
pnrtlone every knwn hue can be produced,
Yellow la the neareat like light-plerc
Ins; red la the painlnn color end blue
the cold color. MUlng yellod, red and
blue, the three primary colora, glvea the
aeciuidary ciiVra, green, orange nd vio
let or purple, hlth, having two elcinenU,
XT I
re more Intercatlng than the primary
colora. Yellow end blue make green, ft
reatful color; red and yellow make
orange, ft violent color; blue add red
make violet or purple, the aolemn color,
The ftdralxturn of the eecondary colors
glvea the tertiary colora, olive green,
tltron and ruaact. Green and purple
make olive-green; purple and orange
make ruaaet; orange and grcon make
citron. '
In order to get the delicate paatel
ahadea that are ao popular nowadaya
we uae Inetead of the primary red, yel
low and bluo pink, lemon yellow and
pain blue,
Amber la a light ehado of brown; that
la, there la very llltlo blue uaod with the
red and yellow.
Apricot la ono part orange and two
parta pink.
Gold bronze la made nf equal parta of
old gold and brown; buff la a light ahade
of orange; canary, a light ahade of yel
low; cerlae, a deep ahade of pink; flamo
red, equal parta cardinal and orange;
maize, a light ehado of yellow and orange;
robln'a egg blue, a light ahnde of del
aky blue; mod, a light ahado or black;
fawn, ft dark ahade of gray.
Kvery atout woman ahould atudy thla
color chart carefully when aelectlng a
hat or gown. To make perfect tho Il
lualon ahe wlahea to create there muni
be complete harmony of color, with not
too atrong contraala, and with not even
a allghtljr jarring note.
And now aa to the material which
beat lend themxclvra to milking the
atout woman look m Htout,
Hairy or fuxy materlalK and all very
beavy fabrlca ahe ahould be careful to
evold. They naturally Increaae the bulk
of a coat or akfrt and, bealdea, they take
on, peculiar angle and do not lend them
aclvea well to draping.
Among the light, amooth-aurfaced ma
terlala which I particularly recommend
are crepe de chine, aatln, charmnuae,
voile, linen, broadcloth, gabardine, wool
end allk faille and poplin,
Htrlpea, either vertical or horizontal,
can he made to fit very nicely Into the
aclontlflc plun of drcaalng the atout
woman. They are exceedingly fashion
able Juat now and are welcomed by moat
women on account of tho appearance of
youth which they give.
Hut atrlpca ahould not be allowed to
become monotonous aa they aurcly will
be unleaa broken In aome way. Monotony
in materiala and colora and llnea is aome,
Ihlrig the Htout woman niuat be continu
ally guarding against.
Lace are not aulted to the atout
woman unleaa they are given the aoft
cuing effect of chiffon or net underneath,
Kleah-colored chiffon or net under black
lace la a wonderful aid In making arma
look entailer and In aoftenlng their hard
llnea.
Juat a little lace at the collar makea
a wondorful change for the better In
the atout woman'a appearance. Therein
nothing better for relieving the high
color nf the fare and brightening up a
dull complexion,
Naxt Sunday Mr. Malaln will explain
what liata, Q'ovee, veils and ethar o.
caaaorlea the "atout" woman ahould wear
In order te complete the Illualon of height
and alenderneaa whoie foundation la laid
by the eclentlflo combination of llnea,"
color ami materiala In her gown.
How the War May
Furnish
aWii
e for Every American
Bachelor
FOR every man that haa fallen In the European war woman
somewhere baa kt ft eweetheart or ft husband. The final
figures whlrh lih, the lteer, will write red at the bot
tom of hla Record ill rfreion with Juat an many unmaled
wiuiun, miniated wliti small poiu!llty of marrjlug while tliry
1U in their native Um1.
It lll bit at If ft grent man plague had swept over the eon
t.n ht, leatuilng a I striking down th sturdiest and b of tie
ti atofk, hbl'twg wtm. it uf th otiH,rtuiity of inoiherhond,
a-t rrlppllng pstetlty. And alio Turliey U Ihe culy warring
uitry wlilili p(lua iMiltgsiuy, the mu i t the other mn
reiio '4 nattoaa nut either f ll f re!lhf f or !
where fr th-tr bntn4. It is tM-rfi fedl)'ts4 that vast
litftut if won.rn Ittunimrsiiia lo AttiotUa wilt to Hi..-vJ at
eHin at pr. Is established,
1 1 tf bsiuisiiig this MMiihi USui Is aires ir be lug
d's-'-ttt, an4 e Urge httftnihmpte Un4 4vlifieM mnrerft
1st 'i iuirt.' I t j f.irm 4'ltmea wheie ths lunula rnt wsr
wiJtts aiid vtht n.aji e and iji4ie frms,
Ut w u u t UKi'ut ft ins tt en a sim w i!. net l.s tj
InvsstmvHt a 1nr a t'MUmhrnpUi l4.,,((,,f
e t tun! ' r t', Stl.us H i-ltsil" S vt I , t r . tm
ihst a,ni ts s'liM!r h't anl s.ili,J r'' t hi us'n It
't !. r. -.11 i, t.t li.irl ,..i, r Will ( f ' ,. .! in
tfl l ! !" . l-isi tn s n li in hi, in I I wou'.'l
beve the flvtcrtece ing t l It belee4, hi
ef. that it. ft ifi-r' atsnrimiai t-f itign i,i.t f t,tlliri
ill h,ins' !U" tp!vr ii(it it. .ii Ilia Usm.s wf ti. u
The altuatlnrt would certainly not be wlihnut romance. It
may possibly be like that whUH eiitled In Ameriia'a roionlul
its; a, when the "wife ship" brought over rargit of Kuropean
wlvea io New ICiiaUiid plantera, On that niiasion, H till be
reaienibefel, the man wsa the wf st-eker, and the women lul
ft very ay lime f It, being aelected and mart led aa wm a they
landed on Ihe w har(.
Hut It Is eipivti-d thai the women whtv emiarate here at the,
f l of Ihe war il nut be aa dependrnt on the luim. itute rs
ly i.f finding a huxband. Msev of then sill h gri. f iiro k.-u
and will rom here ,i I r fmni the hotrihlrt aftermath of
war and t. bel ISielr llrt oer aisiit In an vi.utf y nw rt
virvnnient. A grt-st prison Hon ( Um waul. I et la -liirti'J
a 'tniti!issti," bm wu!d be In.iu the itrat'toUdl U s vf
R-iipe, able to MultilatH their Independence, cr ra;aMe of e-lf-u('wt.
they Will fcnt Wear Ilia shawls and bnmei.ilis nf Ihe
vrvliitary ln,!i,i(ii, who sn is wnn Halk or ..miii.'tai
sa l euit ta.es Tiy, le (-roteiius U.ih'ai k. M.ey of l n
will route Bui. r sevunl rehtn, U! fdnkt and niu fm
I'aiU and l a I lli rlie. Aad t.me friar iu la
lg, wtui iFr a thiHttht i.r a ushaM,
If n.i.i r-n-is etuiEaU.n at tk th.s ef H wsr, II U
bUl tn .-!i t! st t'i re.tn.liirt wl.) sif'r UmiIh' to Hna,
I et a! 'e (. -li, , iw 4 ,,, j, r,,,.t,sif m-t. irliuUJ end
r-v!ami . ntd'-r mil ( t ',,s wr.i.ii'K br tha h.hiI
istfl l.nV- ..H, , , ,,,4i r ( ..HK.i.. In
" "''el, -ne , n, rtiifMl ii imH.io ut
ftSt thli t "i.i IM -t tii I tlH(i I n i,ii'T ft! w.iimn
- '' i- IH t 111 I ,.i
will be a social and ernnomle aurpluft. Their great majorlly
over the male population will not be eualted lit aevrral gener
ations, and for tnte raA It la natural to believe that post
bithim emigration will even be encouraged,
Ameiira baa la)t wliomed Ihe destitute and Ihe home,
(leeker, Hut the great proportion of these, beretofote, have
been men Just bow we might ai)ut eursetvea la a tu l ti n turn
In the tide ut lmiiilra(lmt lo women la a tirobleiu that would
f,i,ilie new nielhodt and means cf sluil!aU.i The piinripal
.iie (if ihi iii4tl,n would prtibahly be so la). How would we
ffurd Ihi'iu ciiiHttinlir l vbialn homes and biitli?
The ial pert-rniaae r-f i'nr own wcnieft the la tha ) ai.
And la the iliMie West eud Hitiihwest, iture sr hmul nl nf
thiniktiitdl of f li i Hers. wli)s ml lilnl wh,t Bate fe
i..H.fluuHU s fur marrUi Most ! Iha wumit In Ih tsmhing
ad tiitnliig (owns are aiti.-d, and ni!.-r went tieta U that
suie or tr that Imtm-dUla disiluatloa The mull It that a
lhhir Csltlemse. sheep rsilthef or miner Us lilt! njiji ntil
Itll at hand l laka uulil himself a wtte
liiit sipMue a ablft loal if fai.inaung furelaa tnii r
traasporied la Ihe rni it he cowUiv i shot all dnsirim t.i
masii s ua b'ei. bsalihy and . ia ' pnt( her a brimful
wiin What winld he k fftmt ia thsse st'irdu- Jknienna
int ifis tai Ha.ua s"itir iMs .d wars tsrtin.1 t.i a p
n inns lmiti!i li we. What ltituna.nl n( Umrlf teH lliw in I'
t -H h.tautiMf liliS, Of ts.'liil.'r !l Ws S 'i' i'i Ih hilts
U.ivi' l tl i.isln is s'ati-i .la an l wi! J tha tinnets dfiii !.r
m-4.k an-a N wy ta fa;pUi4 frnsale tree teat
hi.iti th o nets i( miHis and ranihes itr i bsi iiair
m liitil t 1 1- lnl ! ,
men married, becauae In that Hale they don't drift around from
camp lo remp an much, They would therefore give meh a rust.
rliiionUI To'nnnila aiifflclent and enrouratilng backing And at
for Ihe bttilielurs, who among them would not feel the rail of
romam-a ofti-red In aui h a way? It would be tike delving tutu a
bo i of arted choctdalea and brntbona lo choose the one that
"locked ' the most dtl lout r'rencH, Itunisn, Viennese, Cngtlsh
and luilno. with a corresponding lamuiije and manner t.i fh,
The only needs would b b yphrnaied dMIiuierr and a h irrjing
i letir'ui, l1-" romeuce ever nerd a l.i'i( uia whoa nistmi
durs the lIKi)g
If a ' wit hlii1 of this astiir dm Iked at Nw .uk, It weutd
b d Pi-uli l i pte.llii Jui what a-ift of a rei!i., it eouij t,
ri-he. The t'iy rnia1 1 eltn fUrHl haf-ri,iti t,i sim .
ituivly w.iinea'i h.ittl, ehere tn tli t,ln a grand ball wiigHt
b artaiiii'4 whk'i alt eligible bU'H'iort i.mi, be limited
Inuiinrary inatftss u-rns buretu miht la Installed, and r
tien .f bat b. s, ti'itfal Jii e cf the p. a. mih si in I U (ha
hall In peil.irm Ih rti.B!ee as Ihe g,ieia were passieg om,
Al I'm da.tr, n'4 ,if ih t ut rhsut.jM, i !,'. ( ii ti tru
meat horn ecralt, with lempnef .ff i.f aMr,ia sulig
ihp wi-iiH ri'o. the ii.'nn.it.., ' li:r f
Ihe k'H, her an I bker
This esM tl we', .1., w, r I t tmsa rn .
l sn that Whul Ihe Wil. sM,i ..f i, uis f-'.eh,,) l,, . ,
S'lhasiti It would I- siisl Urn sm , lnw ih v at I v wau
list cf old e.id and i, ba- aiian..,,,! r'p.lpMr
w,tni4 I,.., u a smu a rnateiiiin is rnu elr ens ,t blt!lt
' '!)
i
i
K
T 4
V
J (
! I