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A Very
Frilly
Crm
Lac
Orchid
Tm
Dress.
CLuclle"
Model)
LADY DUFF-GORDON,
the famoue "Leeile" ol
' London, and foromoil
creator of fuhion in lk vorld,
wrilM tack wtek th fathion ar
tick for tkU ntwtptpor. pre
testing all that w Mwot nd
W ia (trios for wll-drwd
Lady Duf -Cordon'i PrU
lobluhment bringi hr into clou
touch with that conlro of fi'h-
. Coat, with BUck ud Whit Fox CoHw m4
By Lady Duff-Gordon
("LUC1LE")
HERB U, I think, one of the most attrextive of the Win
ter coati. It Is of broadtail trimmed with black and
white fox. It has the high collar and the "cult-muff.
The hat 1 of black and white fox fur. with a bl black
feather. The fashionable stick accents the dash of the cos
tumebut It it not necessary to carry the stick on the
arena.
This to an example of the coats. A photograph In the
right hand corner Is an example of the frills. And very
frilly Indeed it Is. This ia a dress for a young lady. It Is of
all cream lace, with mauve orchid slips of satla underneath
the lace. Notice the charming headdress.
1 have been asked why it is that although the new
dresses bare yards and yards of material in them and are
expanelre to the limit, still they have none of the effect of
heaviness which was so characteristic of the Period that is
their grandmother's.
The answer lies in the character of the material that is
nsed tor these dresses. Although the tendency is toward'
larger and larger skirts, it is counterbalanced by a tendency
toward the lightest and filmiest of fabrics. These, indeed,
are light almost to a gossamer degree. And so we get the
effect of fairy-like, airy lightness. The traditional ballet
flrl skirts are many and wide, and yet there is nothing that
gives such an effect of airy lightness as these ballet skirts.
They are fluffs in the highest degree.
We axe coming fast to the fashions of Spring, I venture
to predict that you; will find these wide skirts' flufflaess a4
dlaphanoueness even1'
greater when the birds
begin to com back.
Just few words ebont
headdress novelties and
the use of fur for them.
There is, for Instance, a
charm lag toque whose
crown of flatly folded satin
flower of pure white or
delicate pink or faint
mauve can be allied to
a bordering- band of any
such eoft flat for as mole
skin; seel musquash or
broadtail, a definite con
trast of color being then
Introduced by plcquet
of tiny blossom, whose
velvet petals will, perhaps,
be ia orange and yellow
and purple, and the
leave of a green brilliance
more usually associated
with gem than foliage.
It will be easy and ef
fective to match any fur
trimmed or all 'fur wrap
with a toque, and also
with another, fashioned of
black gros grain bordered all over with bright black aatln
baby ribbon and then divided and decorated by a central
band of skunk, which fasten low( down against the fore
head with a rather barbario looking Jewelled ornament of
big sapphire connected by festooned fringe of tiny blue
beads and finished off at the back with a fringe of tiny paws.
Then,, those whose faces being slightly fuller require the
frame and the relief of a brim (wonderful what a difference
the merest suggestion of aa outward curve can make!) are
In their turn provided with ft little hat of black velvet on
which a wide encircling band of dull gold lac 1 narrowly
edged with ekunk fur, both being effectively combined, too.
In the making of a central oocarde.
8 tin another of the most fashionable and seasonable
looking creation Introducing the fur which now figures on
all outer, and some Inner, garments, too, oowadays and
nights reverse this arrangement by dividing two bands of
skunk with a central broidery of beads jet or gray pearls
being both used with good effect, white cut steel 1 also per
missible, quite a lot being used Just now for such em
broidered devices and also for the making cf quaint little
tasselled ornaments; the unexpected appearance of two
such -shining and most piquantly placed tassels on a toque
' of pure whit ermine being, for example, quite aufflclent to
mark it out as one of the newest and smartest of models.
But there is an even greater erase for gold 8o you will
find an applique of shining lace, shaped somewhat like a
flower, outspreading la the very centre of a closely fitting
toque of black panne, while from its owa heart of gold
there arises a wonderful blaek paradise plume, more ob
viously costly than one would have expected to see this
wartime.
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rorS
Does Europe Face the Fate
of the Fabled Atlantis?
By Dr. Paul Schlleman
Qrcntfson ef the Famous Archsologlst and Dlaeoverer ef Ancient -Trey.-
TJW war In Europe has filled the world
with horror. There are no wars In the
past that can be compared with it. It
surpasses by far the greatest calamities thit
ever have befallen mankind. Yet with all that
there Is another side to the question. . There
Is a cosmlo organism besides the one of the In
dividual. Nature cares nothing for the Joyn
and sorrows of .the Individual. The reason of
nature has no relation to that of the man. The
war wlta all Its brutalities must be looked
upon a a manifestation of natural forces a
cyclone of nature.
It was Just a unavoidable as an earthquake.
There was a cosmlo reason for It. Every
great mind foresaw It It was necessary to
what we call evolution.
Nation and countries, like Individuals, have
their lives and tragedies. Atlantis was a great
continent, inhabited by a powerful and civi
lized nation whea the rest of the world was
merged in barbarism. Atlantis colonized
Egypt , and Central America. When at the
zenith of their power the Atlanteans became
Involved In a war such as has befallen Europe,
the whole continent Vas submerged and sank
in the sea. All great calamities of nature fol
low a certain kind of war. When a social
organism is poisoned by a wrong doctrine of
life, the sooner It dies the better. Like the
civilization of the Atlanteans, this of the Eu
ropeans Is decadent and doomed. The vitality
of every living body depends upon Its spiritual
not Us physical constitution.
As much as we may pity the individual who
suffer In such cosmlo calamities, still we
should be glad of the tempest that cleans na
ture from human rubbish and decadence. The
cosmlo will has no mercy upon any Individual,
because In going against nature the in- ,
dividual Ignored the cosmlo will. The Euro
pean war Is a gigantic purging process of evo
lution. The present European war was unavoidable,
because the social soul of Europe was sick..
Nothing but destruction could end such a sick
ness. The European disease was best re
flected in. the art and literature that preceded
the war. With every year the paintings grew
more abnormal and ugly. The muslo of the
Germans, French and English was all discords
and unpleaslng noise.
The "culture" of Europe came to a climax
of artificialities. The goyernment of Europe
became materialistic and militaristic.
On the one band the Christian church, on
the other the naked Industrialism undermined
the old Culture. The logic that Invented the
printing press and steam engine could not be
reconciled with legendary religion. The
Christian church that had been of such in
fluence during the feudal period of social life,
lost Its grip when Industrial civilisation was
created. Money in the one hand the Bible in
the other this was the picture of a typical
Kulturtraeger of Europe. The fatal paradox
was to profess eellef In the doctrines of
Christianity snd to make money at the same
time in the war most of that money was made.
The contradiction of the two doctrines can be
considered a the logical cause ofthe material
lstio education, the logical cause vt the lack of
spiritual Ideals.
Before a fool dies he goes crazy. Europe
went crazy before the war. Rom went crazy
before her fall. The rubbish of materlallstio
civilization crew so poisonous that it needsd
an Immediate cleaning up.
The fate of Sodom and Oomoirah ,Hm fc
fallen Europe. But this I not alL
1 fear that a great cosmlo calamity VfQ fol
low the war, a calamity of the kind that made
An end to Atlantis. My reason for this fear
are well founded.
. I consider that serious result will follow the
concentration of enormous destructive ener
gies on the comparatively narrow battlefield.
Never In human history have there been em
ployed such energies. All the thousand of
guns and millions of rifles that are used. very
day represent a large, percentage of th gas
produolng instruments of th world. This
means an abnormal transformation of physical
energy Into a chemical one. It mean millions
of cublo yards o.' aa abnormal and violent
change of elements. What will b It ulti
mate effect upon th atmosphere and vegeta
tion no one as yet caa tell. It may change th
meteorologlc balance to such aa extent that
either arctlo colds, tropio heats or excessive
rains will affect life seriously. This may result
either In failure of crops or la epidemic not
known to science.
On the other hand. It Is a scSentlfla possi
bility that the abnormal use of explosive will
affect the gravitational and rhtatlonal law of
the earth. A microscopic change of th earth's
axis would result la glgantlo disturbance of
nature.
My theory of tba vanishing of Atlantic lead
me, as It led my grandfather, to th oonclo
slon that the Inhabitant of that oootlaent '
made use of the volcanic destructive power
of earth for a long time. Whea they abused
these powers the great calamity ooourred.
I fear that the abnormal aocnmulatloa of
metals around the war district will cans ab
normal events of nature. These metal have
been brought together from all pan of th
world. It is estimated that th United States
slone ha shipped more than a million tons of
war materials to th warring nation. Muca of
these are metals, particularly iron, copper and
lead. To my estimate the surface of th earth
around the war district is fifteen million ton
heavier- than usuaL This excecstv weight I
produced by metals.
. It is not only th wetght, but th fWgnrWjm
of earth that ia influenced by th presenoe of
these metals.
Whea I consider th .abnormal cs et ex
plosives, the abnormal weight and accumula
tion of metals In the European war. together
with the certain change of the magnetlo pow
ers, I can easily understand the Insignificant
reaction that Is needed to bring about ft sec
ond catastrophe similar to that of Atlantis.
The same geologic energy that swallowed At
lantis can swallow also war-rMden Europe,'
To sink the surface of Europe a few hundred
feet mean nothing to th ordinary torota of
nature.
Man In ht pride of invention sneer st na
ture. The explosives Chat he employ for de
stroying his fellow-man are stolen from na
ture. Defying the laws of nature, man defies
and destroys himself. I do not need to speak
of the terrible threat from the hastily dug,
shallow graves of the million thit ar mur
dered in this war.
The physical and spiritual phenomena of
this human struggle point to the conclusion
that Europq is facing a continental and cosmic
catastrophe.
ConyHgbt, ISIS, t IM St4 CM Orwit SrtUIn BJfkl MrW