The
Two Views 01 a Typical Modern 1840 Frocli btiff Moire,
No Hoopa "Locfle" fodc!
Something Different, Some- (0$
thing Newer," in a Bewilder
ing Array of Fabrics
LADY DUFF-GORDON, Ae famous "LucOe" of London.
od foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each
week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all
tbat it newest and best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion.
.By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile")
AND cow tie season u in run
wins: no more doubta as to
what fabrics will be em
ployed, what colors will be used, or
what outline will be followed. In
short, there are no more doubts
what the vogue will be for , the
coming Winter.
Those who bare been waiting for
"something different, something
newer," need wait no longer, for
that question has now been defl
nitely decided and settled, and with
the .wonderful array of fabrics,
colors and styles, we should bare
one of the most brilliant eras in
the history of fashion.
There are outlines and colors to
suit erery type; the tall and
stately, the petite and piquant, the
blonde, the brunette, and even the
every day type will find a fashion
that will bring out her good points.
And Indeed the "season" this
year, In so far as fashion Is con
cerned, must be a brilliant one.
With the sadness on the other side
Americans are naturally loathe to
leave their own shores, except In
cases of extreme necessity, and our
beautiful women who have helped
to make the London and Paris sea
sons noteworthy for their bril
liancy, will this Winter lend their
radiance at home. And our manu
facturers, with true American
forethought have prepared for it
Jvever have I seen such wonder
ful silks, laces, chiffons, and
brocades as the looms have turned
out this season; cobwebby laces
with gold and silver threads run
ning through them, brocades with
gold and silver flowers Interwoven,
and the colors! as If nature her
self had woven them from rain
bows, sunsets; Spring and Autumn
tints.
Furs, too, despite the curtailed
supply from abroad, were never so
gorgeous In richness and variety.
The woman of limited as well as
unlimited means can Indulge In
this beauty enhancing accessory
to her heart's content, for who
can gainsay that a touch of fur at
the neck, sleeves, or any other part
f the dress, does not enhance the
charm of a costume, be It morn
ing, afternoon or evening attire. So
appreciative are we of this charm,
that "Purs in Summer" has become
quite the vogue. This, however, is
an exaggeration which cannot last,
for after all. even fashions are
sifted down to the practical.
And speaking ot the practical,
what a relief In the short flaring
Omaha Sunday Bee
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skirt from the narrow and almost
skin tight garment of the past sea
son! Instead of minctng along
Fifth avenue in short stilted steps,
expending a great deal of unneces
sary energy, we can now stride
along with a free and easy gait and
enjoy the movements of our limbs
unhampered. In the theatre, the
restaurant, the ballroom, we can
move with easy grace, whether we
have a beautifully moulded form or
an indifferent one, it matters not
with the billowy hoops, and clouds
of tulle, and stately brocades.
And the bodices! what a relief
from the loose uncorseted figure;
and what a blessing that this par
ticularly un-beautlful mode was so
short lived. I bate to think what
would have become of "Woman's
form divine'.' if this mode had last
ed; suffice it to say that outlines
would no longer be necessary and
the word "Fashion" would prob
ably become extinct. But let us
not dwell on such a horrible ex
igency. The new little tight bodice
shall repair the wrong that has
been done, and the waist line shall
come Into its own again.
And while we are on the sub
ject, I want to call your attention
to this delightfully quaint outline
which I have Introduced this sea
son. If you are at all interested In
fashion periods, you will see that
this outline prevailed from 1830 to
1840, modified of course from
year to year, which amply proves
its popularity.
The sloping shoulder, too, is
quite a departure from the ex
tremely low cut decolletage, which
has been en vogue for so long, and
to say that this Is refreshing. Is
putting it mildly; for who will not
agree that a modest display of
rounded shoulders Is more inviting
to the eye than a bare back down
to the waist line.
For those who do not happen to
be fortunate enough to possess the
necessary rounded shoulders, I
have Introduced a little shirred un
derbodlce of flesh colored net or
chiffon which will produce the
same effect, while it will not dis
play to the naked eye any pro
truding bones or unsightly hollows.
Apropos of the short flaring skirt
again our enterprising American
manufacturers, with characteristic
forethought, have provided the
necessary complement. Boots and
shoes have never been shown in
such a variety of color and design,
an 4 a very good thing it is, for
what woman, ic these days of
r--cC- ly
With This Black
and
dress extravagance, does not pro
vide herself with a pair of boots
or shoes to go with each costume f
The Russian boot Is perhaps one
of the most unusual departures In
the way of foot-wear. These, of
course, are mostly, worn with
tailor-mades and when worn with
an appropriate costume, present a
very striking aspect.
Such a costume I have created.
It (is fashioned of Hunter's green
ratine, the coat is buttoned tight
ly to the neck and has a wide skirt
under a little peplum, the sleeve Is
puffed at the elbow but very tight
down to the wrist, the crushed col
lar Is high and reaches the tips of
the ears. The skirt Is composed of
two wide flounces. A Jaunty little
black hat with tall loops completes
this costume, which would be in
complete without the Russian
boots.
The illustration In the upper right
hand corner of this page is the front
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White Taffeta Afternoon Dress Is
run Dimensions
view of the striped taffeta co'a
tume which I described to you last
week. I will not therefore repeat
It, as It requires no further com
ment. In the lower right hand corner we
have a creation of white and bright
green tulle over very pale flesh
chiffon. Can you imagine anything
more dainty T The only substantia!
part is the tight bodice, which is
fashioned of satin striped taffeta.
To the bodice is attached a peplum
ot tulle edged in green and silver
lace. The skirt is very full and at
each point Is inset an oval of green
tulle, to the centre of which Is at
tached a little spray of hand-made
flowers. The hoops are covered by
a short pointed oversklrt which Is
edged like the peplum. I have
named this creation "En Valsant"
Some one suggested I should have
named it "Exprix du Prlntemps.''
' The costume In ih r,nim ,.t ,t.
page is a black and. white taffeta
,h fil.r fammnv nr,.t Britain IllrhU nnrrvA
.VIagazi
'oae s
Worn a Black TaffeU CoH? of
afternoon dress. This has a close
fitting bodice coming down to the
hip onto which is attached a full
skirt. Note the queer little puff at
the top of the sleeve. With this
frock is worn a black taffeta coat
of very full dimensions with
sleeves of the same material as the
dress. The flowing sash confines
the fullness at the waist line.
In the upper left hand corner we
have a typical modern 1840 frock.
This Is fashioned of stiff moire,
which requires no hoops. The
oodice Is a surplice effect with
tight sleeves joined to a drooping
shoulder lum. Th itntv trim.
tnlng is a band of sable at the top
To add an anH.anlrr tnuxti I
hae edged the lower part of the
sleeve with an edge of ermine and
tucked a little ermine bow at the
co.-sage. The skirt Is gathered very
fully at the top and draped up at
the sides. The sable on the skirt
lends the necessary finish.
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Dainty Create;. ot White and liright Green Tulle Ovr PaU
, M Flesh Chiffon-'itciie" uldcu "m F!
(and above) Smart Striped Taffeta Costume.-i,- Mt4H
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30
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