Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, November 14, 1915, EDITORIAL MAGAZINE, Image 23

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    The Omaha Sunday Eee Magazine Page
The" Spinster Coiffure9
and Quaint Tight
Bodice of Grandma's
4
Time Is the Whim
of Fashion
i1- H"
Jhe Spinster Coiffure Is One of the
Most Important Details for
the Completion of the
General Effect
By Lady Duff-Gordon
("LUCILE")
WHEN I was a little girl I was pos
sessed with an unholy passion for
picture books; especially did I de
light ' in pictures of "dressed-op" ladles.
Later, when I understood what the term
fashion really meant, I used to deplore the
fact that I did not live In the period of
hoops, crinolines, powdered wigs or glossy
cork-screw curls. And now toy wish has
been realized. The hoops, crinolines and
curls are here In even more wonderful
splendor than the pictures I so adored. They
re here, to my mind, in more variety, color
and elegance than I could have dreamed of,
and, best of all, they are here modified to
the needs and demands of the present day.
Do I hear some one say that this modifica
tion will tend to detract from the quaint
charm of the 1840 silhouette? It might, and
(robably will, In the hands of those who
cannot feel nor enter into the spirit of that
wonderful period, which is the secret of
bringing the "MO's" up to date. But in the
hands of a true artist, far from detracting
from its charm. It will only be enhanced bv
i
u
' : - -
A
Navy Bice and Black Striped Taffeta Afternoon
("Lucile" Model)
Oat
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si r K ii ' 1 N
1 "
. I;y . . :
I',!
This Does Not Boast of Hoops or Crinoline
("Lucile" Model)
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of
London, and foremost creator of fashions in the
world, writes each week the fashion article fo
this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best io
styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into
clos-. touch with, that centre of. f hioa.
few modern touches, which the accompany
lug Illustrations will demonstrate.
The coiffure, to my way of thinking, Is
oae of the most Important details for the
completion of a general effect That one
should arrange her hair to conform to the
style of a frock is my firm conviction. Note
how softly pretty our little miss in the upper
left band corner has arranged hers. Instead
of parting her hair in the middle, which is
trying to some faces, sometimes giving the
Impression of age, she has brushed her hair
softly back from her forehead, banded It
with two braids and crowned the whole with
three soft puffs. The little corkscrew curls
at the side add the necessary finishing touch
to an ideal "modern 1840 coiffure."
Another very important detail which can
not possibly be dispensed with is what I
call "the fluffies," those intimate lacy things
that are so dear to the heart of every woman.
The days when a woman boasted "Just
knickers" are past, and the fluffy, frilly pet
ticoat has come into Its own again. And so
glad are we to welcome It back with us that
we tilt our skirts (oh, ever so little!) to
display a view of dainty chiffon, lace and
Gown
r,-"vrSr 10
asraone
Vi
ribbons and what is more genuinely femi
nine? A very pretty example of "the new old
fashioned dress' is tbs dinner frock Illus
trated In the centre of this page. This does
not boast of hoops or crinoline. Delng fash
toned of stiff gros grain taffeta. It stands
out by itself. Hear In mind a combination
of the very palest of flesh and a deep shade
of rose colored taffeta, the latter bound la
a still deeper shade of rose, and over this a
lace apron of the sheerest possible lace
bound in turquoise blue. The skirt is lifted
a trifle, disclosing to view a wIbp of the
above mentioned chiffon, lace and ribbon
underskirts, and you will picture a little gem
of a frock, very appropriately named "Joy."
The picture In the lower left band corner
la a navy blue and black striped taffeta
afternoon gown. The bodice is built on the
old-fashioned but ever new surplice effect,
drawn around the waist and tied at the side
front. The very full overskirt Is draped
with the new pocket effect at the side, the
pockets being faced with plain blue of the
same shade. Note the little square slips at
te side, also faced with the plain blue.
The costume on the right Is an afternoon
A'
kv tba Star Comunr. P.ru, Britain Right Rarv2
4s-
hi
dress of wide black and mastic striped taf
feta. This has the little boned bodice in
this instance' attached to the skirt. The
sleeves and under bodice are of sliver lace,
the flure of the sleeve being finished with
three bands of fur. The skirt is gathered
at the hips and draped at the front. A short
apron banded with fur lends a unique finish
to the whole.
These dresses are entirely and specially
attractive. There will be, I believe, more
than usual Interest in them because they
illustrate a further development of a fash
ion that was once the vogue, and no doubt
every woman will be anxious to see just how
every other woman will look in the new full
skirts. At the same time, women can get a
little idea how their dear old wrinkled grand
mas looked when they were young and
giddy.
To digress for a moment from these par
ticular designs, I want to tell you of a cos
tume seen at a Kits luncheon party the other
day. She was an almost boyishly slender
little lady, whose coat and skirt costume of
black and white checked 'weed was almost
as severely simple In style as a man's suit.
Also, it was Just as Immaculately tailored.
-is
I 4 . . CV ' , - - -"" .
hence Its own and the wearer's success.
The skirt was of the shortest, Its fulness
flaring out at the sides only, and the back
and front hanging stratghtly and Just touch
ing the tops of the high black Russian boots,
whose putting on, let me warn you, means
the use of a "jack," and whose taking off
demands the help of either a vary muscular
maid or a husband sufficiently new to be
devoted and delighted to "assist" at Ms
wife's toilette! '
The coat buttoned right up to the neck,
with a series of little rounded sliver but
tons, and Just showed a line of an Inner
collar of white lawn beyond lta bordering
piping of black satin.
Then the toque, too, was of black satin
and of distinctly military outline, with Just
a cockade of satin ribbon, edged with silver
galon for its trimming. It was set on the
head a the acute angle of a forage cap, nor
was there much more balr shown than if lta
wearer had been a soldier man, the soft
dark locks being brushed right back from
the forehead and the ears, and just showing
a sleek and smooth sweep at the left side,
never a stray curl being permitted to relieve
the hard line of satin against the forehead.
Bo nothing could well have been simpler
than this "get-up," and yet the resulting
effect was eye-arresting and even startling
to a degree rarely attained even by costly
elaboration.
- Though, to be sure, as regards cost, this
simple little suit would, I am sure, be calcu
lated to give a severe shock to the husband
who was suddenly called upon to pay th
bill!