THE UKK: OMAHA. 'ITKSlUY, OCTOBKll IS). 1!)ir.
1Q. ..'
oiiie Magazine Pa
lie
Fall Fashions Permit Suggestions of Personality in Women's Garments
Forethought Needed in Planning Wardrobe Types So Varied That Dress May Be Smart, Yet Practical to a Degree.
Grin
and Go
On
gel
ssr m
II 11 i aj, (ii-ar mb j- , VT yaw ; -C 9"! V t y W;ee-V-BrBfwwr-a, , I la
lly ADA FATTERSOX.
There are proverbs, old, respected, and
In some measure true, that have guided
humanity fop generations. But new con
dition create new needs and new needs
new adage. I
WOUld lUKKlt
"Ortn and go on."
One can grin
without going on
and go on without
grinning, but tha
fcest results are av
owed by a union
of tha ways. The
averag man la
mora of an adept
at the double art
than la the av
erage woman. Tou
remember that It
waa a woman who
when departing In
haste from a city.
waa turned to a
nlller of aalt for
looking back. Her fata waa a warning
and a prophecy.
It la a peculiarly feminine art to look
back. Women look back through a
mlat of. teara and aee persona and objects
aa they are not and never were. They
are ldeallata who Idealise not tha per
aona and the present, but of the past.
Men are far more Inclined to march with
their eyea forward. It la one of tha les
a one which Mra. Everyday Woman can
lanrn from Mr. Everyday Man.
I know a man Who loolti commonplace
a he looked until I learned that while
he waa working hard to establish him
self In his profession his wife became In
sane. Moreover aha remained Insane un
til, ten" years later, ahe died.
The grim need of putting his energies
Into his work to pay. for food and shelter
for the demented woman faced him. Yet
the tragedy of hla dally life with her
waa a big load for those needed energies.
"How did you do ltr1 I asked him
about this horror crowded Into his life.
"O. I lust kept on," he said simply.
"That Is what everyone must do at such
a time. Just go or.
In that sense we of the "Vender" as
onDoaed to the "tough" sex, are remises.
We are what - tha world crudely calls
quitters. Some women there are who go
bravely, on without wora or sigh, but
thoy .re rare, aren't they sister? , Isn't
' true that it wa obey our Impulses
we are Quitters? Don't we run under
fire, the majority of us? Let us be candid.
We do. And when circumstances prod
us onward wa go on weeping. Now.
don't. we?. Wa do.
When things go wrong women weep;
men grin. When a situation becomes
nearly intolerable women turn balky.
Men go on. Women are born strikers.
Men are more adaptable. Women expect
their paths to be strewn with rose leaves.
Men expect the thorns. Women cry out
when they encounter the thorns. Men,
having taken them for granted, make no
ado about them.
In the big teat of life women enow
themselvea heroic. They watch sleepless
and-foodless beside the sick bed of a
ohlld. They see their husbande through
financial crlsea and failure. Many of
them have died with a smile.
But the lesser things of life stamped
them. When difficulties accumulate they
want to stop midway of their taska.
Don't you remember how many times you
have proposed breaking up housekeeping
and boarding out because to you the
chain of ' Incompetent girls seemed end
less? Shame, .sisters! What man ever
thought of .quitting mldcareer becauae
most clerks were careless and soma of
them dishonest, and nine-tenths of them
Incompetent?
Come, let us allow our brothers to teach
us something. We have taught them
muT uplifting lessons. It Is high time
they made a return of our profitable In
struction. Let us borrow some of their
stuff. Let us learn to grin and go on,
"Brownitonc"
Tints Your Hair
fn a Minute
For practi
cal service a
coat of hair,
seal bor
dered with
Hudson seal.
All Hn-C&llFd "Restorers" . That
Claim to "Gradually Restore"
Color to Your Hair Are Simply
Slow Acting Dyes.
The stralghtest road and the shortest
Rut to tha certainty of an attractive and
k..uttfiil armearance ts the use of
"B r o w n a l one
it
H i-T' ' l "... ' ' : w ''v'li w f black moire faced with it i ;
Wtll. a 1 J lngs of while organdie. ft ,.
a m n .sum -mr i
g k r.?r ti l wyjTWi4! n turn v nvi ci
V m across a y v wo. v UUV . JyM? B
' ' JX il 11 II m V, S ?. 11 7 " V i i r f 3 I
f'y Ifr Chiffon vehret In gardenia pink composes
il ((r T " waning frock whose skirt drapery Is
J p ",V P ltl a allvar rose.
Learning How to Talk
I By BEATRICK 1'AlItr'AX.
VI.
U--'''- . , ....77
Wvii ' . "'
1
t
3
Extremely dashing In Ita projected lines la a toque of taupe relvet crowned;
with wlnga of the same color.
Why Men Sympathize with
Women Criminals
Straight Skirt
Lines Becoming
Alike to Young
and Old.
Hair BUln.
Thi preparation
will Inatantly
chanse s r a
atreaked or faded
hair to the aofteat
and richest golden
tirown, medium or
" dark Brown or
blacV just as you
wish.
Just comb or brush
It into your hair.
"B r c w a t one"
will always give
you the most
plea sing results
and you need have
had no previous
experience.
Impossible of de
tection will not
and needs retouch
ing only as the hair grows out.
"Brownatone" hair stain la fsr superior
to "dyes." and la absolutely harmlesa In
every way.
Sold toy all up-to-date druggists. In two
elsea, Tba and $1.00. If you are offered a
aubatltute, save annoyance by refusing
It and ordering "iirownatone" direct
from tha maker.
Insist on "Brownatone" at your hair
dressers.
A trial . bottle and Interesting booklet
will be mailed for 10 cents.
Addresa the Kenton Pharmacal Co.,
(9 K. tke et.. Covington. Ky.
Bold and guaranteed In Omaha by Sher
man A klcC'onnell Irug Company Store
and ether leading dealers. Advertiae-
suent.
By GUI . WE GACTIER.
In planning a wardrobe for the fall
and winter a woman must luko fore
thought of her social and professional
activities, which call for varments of
varied types, all of which must be wntrt
in appearance, practical to a certain de
gree and convey a suggestion of her per
sonality. Although the majority of the foreign
modes, upon which American adaptations
have been built, Incline to favor youth
ful figures, the middle-age 1 woman has
not been neglected. It Is not that her
condition of being fair, fat and 40 la em
phasized In the garment build for her,
but rather that the lines aasoclated with
eternal 20 have been juffl-lontly modified
for her service and that In their adapta
tion she may look her best without any
of the pathos and foolishness sometimes
Incorporated in young-looking garments
worn by youth-forsaken women.
The straight lines of the skirt are be
coming alike to old and young, to the
slim and tha abort stature. It Is some
thing of a consolation to know that a
tew of the high class houses Insist on re
taining comparatively narrow skirts, not
so much for tha sake of the skirt ap
pearance, but rather to accentuate the
extreme flare of the coat line. Even a
woman who must acknowledge the pos
session of hips may wear such a model.
Then, too, the arrangement of the
trimming on many of the suits and
dresses Is such that will appeal to wo
mankind In general. There pre- b re telle.
epaulettes, narrow girdles and vestees, all
contributing length ' of line, and by
using contrasting trimming, adding a
note of decoration to the garment
trimmed.
There Is, however, one type of dress
that only the young glii may adopt.
That la the model and Its several variants
projected by Callot, Jenny and Cherult.
It ha to do with an aatoniahlng wide
skirt and a close fitting bodice whoae
everlty of line is mitigated only by
the luclous and extravagant fabrics used
In the development of the model.
One such gown, for Instance, ts made
of black panne velvet. The skirt Is freely
gathered at the top and bordered from
knee to hem with bias bands of black
grosgraln silk. The skirt Itself ts shsped
upward toward the sides and drops a
little at the beck. It is fully six yards
.through the hem.
' The attached bodice shows an old-time
seamed back, a dart front and buttona
t
$
what after tha manner of the drapery of
the classic Greeks, and where the drapery
is attached to tha bodice there posed a
rose of metalllo tissue. The sleeves are
very short, and are in puff effect, and
this, by tha way, la a popular arm finish
for many of tha evening gowns. A band
of silver tlssua Is passed across tha top
of the decolletege, which is In square out
line. The daytime apparel was never more
Interesting than at the present season.
Inspiration for ths models haa been
aought In many lands and from many
sources. It is quite natural that both
suits and coats should borrow something
from the regimentals of European sol
diery. This last Is Instanced In a dis
tinguished suit of biscuit-colored cloth,
with knspsack bands of caraoul.
Theae bands, however, appear only
across the front, but at the back there
falls a round, full hood, which at first
sight appears to be nothing more or leas
thsn a deep collar, but which. In fact.
Is a continuation- of the muffler band of
the front. One can, without difficulty
find a military Influence In this model.
For the feminine motorist there are de
lightful coats of soft, warm worateds
with fur trimming; or the coat may be
entirely of fur, lined with aome gay
flowered satin. Becauae of Ita beautiful
coloring there Is a fancy Just now for
hair-seal. Borne of the modela are trimmed
with wide bands of sealskin, while others
employ nutria for the contrasting pelt
It Is worthy of note that leading furriers
are Including fur hats and . also fur
trimmer hats claix note there la a dlf-
that faaten the garment from walat al- ferenre In their new stock. In thla way
M HUUUUl iiiij IIIAIVII uf 11,1 1 1 il
headgear both as to fur and as to correct
a ''.ik
A
V
rub or wash off.
moat to the throat Hne. At that point it
ts cut off squarely, tha upper edges meet
ing the ends of a round collar of cream
colored mallne over rep silk, the mallne
being bordered with two rows of narrow
plaited lace. The sleeves are wrist length
and close-fitting, and by way of empha
sising the return to so-called feminine
figure lines, there Is a patent leather belt
that appears to draw In the waist.
Black, by the way, gives promise of a
splendid vogue for evening things. It is
employed In mallne, velvet, satin,
spangled nets and furs for all manner
of formal garments. After black, per
haps one may aay that pink la preferred.
It is the color of youth and in tha new
velvets and satins It has a delightful two-
tone effect that Is quite Irresistible.
One calls to mind a dance frock of pink
chiffon velvet that is an exponent of a
graceful ensemble Induced by wonder
fully simple lines. . The skirt ts caught up
on one aid against the left hip, some-
contour.
For the most part the fur hats are I
small, and employ such simple giriiliurc
as a metallic flower, a bunch of opr?y
plumes or a military aigrette, Or i
clonally one finds an otrl.h feather, hut
the latter does not seem to lend Hrelf
properly to the elegantly aevure line of
the fur chapeau.
The veil has become snmotiilnK of an
Institution this sessjn. The smnll hat,
with Its hard brim, haa railed for , a
softening accessory, and nothing better
than the chantllly veil or th.it of em
broldered net haa been found to femi
nise the hat built on the line of mascu
line headwear. Sometimes the v.-ll is so
arranged that It reaches sltnost to the
waist; and then, again. It I lifted at a
coquettish angle at one stdi or drawn
across the face directly under the note In
a manner that Imparts a saucy air even
to a demure face.
Some folka think conversation oomea
by the grace of heaven but nothing la
farther from the truth. One might as wall
say playing the violin comes by nature.
No human being no matter how musical
could play a simple lullaby on the violin
with out first learning. - Of course, a
maestro might play by ear without les
sonsbut not without praotice. And most
mortals need all the aid good Instruction
can give them.
Well, by the same toksn of Practical
common sense, although a favored few
talk glibly and even pleasantly by In
stinct, even they do not get far without
atudy, without practice and without tak
ing Infinite palna.
Of course, the obvious way to Improve
In conversation Is to talk provided one
talks as well as one Is able. But It would
be hard to force any man or woman to
take a tenth as much pains to learn the
game of conversation as to master the
latest fox' trot step or to learn the gam
of golf. And yet conversation la a gam
that can never go out of style and that
will be important as long as mortals have
ears and tongues.
Here are a few rules of practice for
learning the gentle art of conversation:
Tslk as well as possible to all aorta of
DSODle. Adept yourself to moods, to
character and to varying axe.
Make it your business to say what you
want to convey so you shall be thor
oughly understood by the Individual you
addresa. tie clear ana aimpie.
When you are thrown with an unut
terably dull ' person who seems almost
dumb, pride younelf on finding out some
thing about which he can talk. Any one
can talk about something. Even an utter
fool can tell you about himself. Oet Into
the habit of drawing out the allent and
taciturn. As they expand Into converse'
tlon you will get a sort of perspective
on your own lesser difficulties In finding
conversational material.
The very best school for conversation
is, of course, good reading. The classical
novels will accustom you to English
used with charm and certainty and exact
ness. The light word In ths right place
will come, through good reading, to have
a meaning alt Hs own. Don't resd to
quote don't read to talk with "hlgh
fulutin' ." and literary elegance. Read to
see how words can be molded Into a llv
Ing maaa to express Just ths meaning In
the modfler's mind.
After you have read a bit don't get to
thinking you are all wise the field of
clasalc lore In Just the English language
Is wide Indeed. Don't be pedantic about
what you know don't try to make It
aeera overwhelming. Be overwhelmed
yourself, by all there la left for you to
read.
Bhakespear and Goethe will prove In
tereatlng after you - have accustomed
yourself to a school of reading In which
"Bald aha languidly" and "He exclaimed
with flashing eyea" do not make uo
nlcentaa i tor exactness in model Ins- words
Into a breathing exprosslon of thought.
It Is obvious that all knowledge will
help you in conversation. A little anec
dote about . your washerwoman's boy
may lighten a dull moment It Is well to
keep up with the time. The editorial
pages of the newspapers In themselves
offer a training for Interesting talk.
whether you agree or Intelligently differ
with what you have read. If you have
read good book reviews and orrtlctam
of popular plays you can talk about the
originate with those who have first-hand
knowledge.
There are two classic about boredom
which you must avoid If you want to
be known as a good conversationalist
A bore has been defined as "a person
who talks about himself when I want
to talk about myself." Don't let your
self be so defined. Talk about tha other
chap, let him fall Into the category of
bores, but avoid that slough of deepond,
for your own special reputation.
Then a bora has been called "a person
who, when you ask him how ha feels-
tells you!" Don't, don't, as you value
your friendly place In the mtnda of men,
tell them all about your last headache,
nor how you can't sleep In hot weather,
nor how you have all the symptoms of
appendicitis. Rather than that, use even
the stupid old expression, 'Fins and
dandy!" when asked how you feel. But
don't go Into a clinical and medical maaa
of detail. Pave your symptoms for the
doctor. Tou will pay him to listen to
the story thereof.
And finally to talk well, broaden your
horixon. Everything In the world about
you be It a crying baby tn the subway
or tha latest war bulletin haa possibili
ties of Interest end Interesting possibili
ties. Observe consider comment. Don't
turn your mind In on yourself, but ex
pansively offer It to the world for lm
pressiona And then exchange opinions
with the people you meet.
Soon giggling and Idle chatter will be
as unnatural aa dumbnc Tou will have
acquired for yourself the supreme gift
of charm that of telng a pleasant and
Interesting conversationalist.
By ELLA WHEELER WILCOX.
(Copyright, IMS, Star Company.)
"Why Is It," asks a friend of thla col
umn, "that Judges and Jurors almost
Invariably endeavor to acquit a woman
criminal and endeavor, with Just as much
persistency to convict a man accused
of crime T A law
yer defending a
woman lays great
stress upon ths fact
that tha Jurors have
mothers and sis
ters. But have tney
not also fathers
and brothers?
"Why Is a woman
who dtcelvea sev
eral men admirers
leas reprehensible In'
tha eyea of tha law
than a man who
wrongs a woman T
I cannot under
stand this thing.
Can you explain?"
It Is . not neces
sary to look far to find tha explanation
of man's mental attitude In such oases.
My questioner (who seems from his pen
manship, to be a man) ought to loon in
his own heart for the answsr. Man, slnca
tha beginning of history up to tha last
quarter of the litat century, has heen
woman' a ruler, .teacher, guide, mentor
and critic
It Is ha who haa laid down tha moral
code for hr and It Is he- who- has
taught her to consider him her superior
In all things and all vocations, aava that
of ohlld bearing.
It hsa been man s greatest mental
recreation to muse on the inferior, cling
ing and helpless qualities of woman.
Ths last quarter of a century, the laai
half of a century, In truth, has dis
turbed htm somewhat In these reveries.
but he still regards her with that pro
tective and paternal feeling which Is
tha result of mingled Inherent and ac
quired habits of thought.
Added to this ha haa the Indisputable
facts before his ayes of the physical
handicaps which Nature put upon woman.
When woman la behaving herself,
when she Is ruling society and tha home,
and even Interfering In man's domain
In business, hs for ths time forgets her
weaknesses, her helplessness and her
handloapa and becomes her tempter and:
her critic. But when she Is In trouble,
tha trouble that menaces reputation and
life, he recalls all these conditions and i
la again hsr protector and defender.
However appearances and circum
stantial evidence may be agalnat her.
he knowa In his deepest hesrt that, aa".
a rule some man firat took tha woman V
hand and led her toward the path of'
follythat oft times flower-hidden avenue '
to tha dark road of crime.
It Is tha egotism, tha vanity, tho pity
In-Shoots
and the reverence In man's naturo air
combined wblch makes him so much
more sympathetic ' toward ' a woman '
criminal than toward a sinner of his"
own sex. - . 3
It la quite true that were the life of
many an Immoral woman Investigated U1
would be found that ahe made the first'
advances to hsr victim. There are worn inM
libertines and moral outlaws. In the
world.
Yet even then a Just Judge or Jiry'
realises that the man knew whnt In
was about when he responded to her'
advances, and that ha had leas to sarrl-"
flee in the eyes of the world than the
woman. Being the stronger, fortified
by nature and the law of society. It
behooved him to try to put her In' tha
petti of. rectitude.
If men would show the same spirit
toward woman at all times which they
exhibit on the Judge's bench and In the
Jurors' box few women criminals would,
be brought before them.
Hundred of men forget that tbey have
mothers and sisters when they tempt In--nooent
women acquaintances and em-1
Dloyea Into follv. but thov rom.mh.t- tttm,
.relationship of the hardened criminal to,
their dear ones.
It Is a peculiar fact that while man
will do all In his power to defend a wo-,
man of blemished reputation . when her'
life la In danger, ha will object to having
tha good women of his family champion,
her causa. ,
Woman Is rapidly pushing herself to a
position where man will regard her with
less consideration In her time of trial.
This fact is already shown tn publlo con
veyance a, where ha no longer sollcltlous'
for her comfort and health. '
One man gives a woman a seat now lm
a crowded vehicle where 100 sprang to
their feet twenty yeara ago. The day will
come, I doubt not, when the partiality
of which my questioner complains will'
no longer manifest Itself. t
Jitney nickels often outrun taxi dollars.
SI op talk Invariably bores the shopless.
Egotism I often the first Isp In ths
direction of the dsffy house.
Ths wit I the fellow
shocking things without
listener
who can say
shocking the
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i HIS OupOn Quaker Cooker. Cat it out Than buy a
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&
H. I
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reuBitSBAl'
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