The
Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
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Miss Rose O'Neill, Who Will Be a
Universal Gown
A MOVEMENT td secure a model gown,
- suitable- tor all- day and evening,
wear, and adapted to the needs of
the majority of women bas been started
by a committee of prominent club women
of New York. ,
The movement in this necessary and
laudable direction bears the names the
Polymurlel Prize Fund. The originator
of the idea has given to It the combined
nm rtf TiAf Iva rimirhtura Pnllv and
Muriel. The chairman of the committee
of clubwomen having the matter in charge
is Mm A. M. Palmer, president of the
Rainy Day Club, the organization to whose
credit may be set down the sane practice
which has saved the lives of many Amer
ican women and assured the health and
lives of their children, that of wearing
sufficiently abort aklrts on days of storm.
The committee has set practically and
efficiently about its task, for it has placed
in the bank. $150 to be awarded to who
ever will furnish a design for a costume
fulfilling its requirements. It foreshad
ows the prlzewinnlng gown in the gentencfe
. "We desire an universal gown for women,
one-showing the strongest combination
of beauty, comfort, simplicity and dura
bility." Mrs. A. M. Palmer, who has been
termed "The Mother of, the Rainy Day
Skirt," outlines the committee's plan in
these words: ' ' v
"Business women professional women, -busy
women of most sorts have long need
ed a frock that they could wear to an
office or a business meeting and in which
they could also appear suitably attired at
a luncheon, a matinee r an afternoo
reception. - '
"My own idea is that the garment should
be built upon simple' lines." It'should pre
ferably consist of one piece. Its silhou
ette should not too strongly suggest an
umbrella, a knitting needle, an hour glass,
a pyramid, inverted or otherwise, or other
of the geometric forms into which women
have from time to time tortured their
bodies.
"It should be neither so scant nor so
voluminous that it will be grotesque. It
should be a design that could be adapted
te the tall or the short, the stout or the
slender woman, the old and the young.
It should be suitable for light or heavy
materials, according to season or weather.
THE Game Bird Society of the United
States is urging the passage of this
very sensible new game law:
. "That all birds end animals reared'
. or bred In captivity shall be consid
ered domestic stock, and the owner or
raiser thereof may keep, sell, ship,
transport or otherwise dispose of
them, and such stock shall not be af
fected or covered by any laws pro
hibiting or regulating the killing or
disposition of birds and animals of
the game kind grown or propagated in
a wild state."
In support of the intelligence of such a
law the society points out that of the eggs
of quail set by the birds in a wild state
81 per cent batch. Of the eggs of the
same bird hatched in captivity on private
game farms 72 per cent hatch. Of tie
birds hatched In the wild state, 1$ per cent
attain maturity. Of the eggs hatched In
private preserves, 64 per cent mature.
These Hgures are taken from one hundred
snd seven observations made in the years
1908, 1909. 1910. 1911,-1912. 1913 and 1914.
Vhese figures can be amplified by the
statement of the observers, a part of
H Ik
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Judge of the Sketches for the
for Women.
.It should he. comfortable for drawing room
wear or suitable for walking,
"It is a difficult problem we have set,
yes. But it is not ' impossible. I have
faith - in the cleverness of designers. I
think some American will give a design
for such a costume and earn the gratitude
of all women, comparted with which the
1150 prise is a bagetelle."
Upon Mrs. Rose O'Neill Wilson, the
gifted and beautiful artist who originated
the kewpies, and who has recently given
the world the newest fad, which is a Mer
kewp," a kewple of the semblance of a
mermaid,' with which It Is the fashion to
bathe, hag fallen the committee's choice
of one who shall Judge of the artistic mer
its, of the sketches. While Miss O'Neill .
will pass upon the beauty of the sketches,
her colleagues of the committee, Mrs. A.
M. Palmer, Miss Florence Guernsey and
Mrs. Mildred Johnstone Landone, the
originator of the idea, will contribute
their Ideas and votes on the matter of
utility as well as beauty.
"A garment may be beautiful as weH as
useful," Is a ray of hope shed by the fa
mous artist. "We must not assume that
to be durable a costume must be ugly."
Another ray of hope. "A garment need
not toe made of expensive material to be
beautiful. Some lovely stuffs now cost
ten cents or less a yard.
"This movement for a universal gar
ment Is one of the worthiest outgrowths of
women's liberty of thought. It Is a step
toward stopping the enormous waste In
dress, the waste f strength, of time, of
nervous force and so of life.
"The clothes we have been wearing have
Imprisoned our waists and ankles. They
have squandered our time and nervous
force by endless Intricacies of fastenings.
Why does it take a man so short a time
to dress and a woman so long? For in
stance, have you watched a man stalk
angrily about the beach at the seashore
waltiug for his wife to disrobe herself and
get into her bathing costume, or after the
bath attire herself for a more conventional
appearance? It is because ehe does not
. get into her garments In the same way,
snd when she has gotten into them has
to dally with innumerable contrivances
for keeping the garments on.
"Two practicable and Invaluable hints
It '7 -J jki V I I
A Sensible Game Law Suggested at Last
which Is as follows
nally a wild bird.
"Chickens were origl-
The. habitat of the
chicken is very limited, ft consisted of a
strip of territory bordering on the Medi
terranean Sea on the southern border of
Europe, the western border of Asia, and
a part of the northern shore of Africa.
The chicken was not domesticated until
after the coming of Christ. Then we
learn from Cllxtus that a certain fowl
very shy of mankind was brought to
AChens and after three seasons reared
progeny. Since then the chicken has be
come the most numerous of all birds. If
laws were to be enacted protecting chick
ens from hunters and butchers and for
bidding their ownership and rearing by
private industry there would not be a
chicken in existence in Ave years.
Some contend that if private ownership,
sale aad killing of any game birds Is per
mitted, it will accomplish destruction of
that bird by affording game bunkers an
opportunity to kill the wild game and
palm it off on the public aa domestlo
stock. The Chinese ring-neck pheasant is
not a native of this country. All the
game laws devised would not make the
New York Club-Women Offer
Prizes for Designs for a
Dress a Woman Can
Wear AH Day with
Appropriateness
men have given us In the matter of dress.
We should accept and adopt them. A man
slips his shirt bver his head. We should
be able to get Into our garments In the
name way. In my studio and at home or
for evening wear, I usually wear a cos
tume that I can slip over my head. This
robe is made of one long, broad piece of
. . . , . . . A uji. ,
ciom. An opening is cut m mo iuiuiuo iur
the neck. The selvedged edges are Joined
at the side by a seam, leaving a long
opening for the arms. This foundation
garment I fasten at the neck or bosom by
a cord or clasp. Presto, I have dressed In
less thsn a minute. , For beauty's sake I
often wear a second and shorter tunic of
the same or a contrasting color. It I add
this to my costume the process of dressing
requires a full minute. I have accepted
the second hint men have given us In
dress, to use few and simple fastenings.
"Such a garment can be made In an hour.
Think of the time saved for fitting. For
this garment needs ' not to be fitted.
Women can make the costume themselves,
or If they give the task over to a dress
maker who has their 'measures' In her
book they need never visit her establish
ment. "My own conception of a universal cos
tume for women Is a combination of Greek
and Turkish apparel. The Oreek costume
Is beautiful, because it serves the two pur
poses of drapery for the body. It veils
and floats. It gives a woman the sense
of being hidden in her robe, and this sense
Is peculiarly agreeable to a woman,
especially if ehe be a plentifully rounded
one. Nothing lovelier, so far as Intrinsio
beauty goes, was ever devised than the
early Creek robes, for all women. For
eyen the over plump woman looks as well
in them as she does In the present re
vealing fashions.
"But I advise a combination of the Greek
with the Turkish accessories. I do not
care for the upper part of the Turkish
garments. . Tbey are too heavy and bur
. densome about the shoulders. I eliminate
' their robes from all my plans for dress,
but 'I do earnestly advocate tne nether
garments. The Turkish pantalettes are
' beautiful and comfortable. They are much
more practicable than the skirts of the
day, because they are closed at the ankles.
No need to fear rheumatism, ye who wear
them. . , . ,. . .
"A Oreek tunlo reaching to the ankles
at the sides, and below the knees In front,
with a pair of Turkish pantalettes, Is a
combination that is beautiful and practical.
A tunic of satin and pantalettes of velvet
( would be charming for Winter: An extra
' tunlo could be worn for warmth.
"In the Summer the soft cheap stuffs,
such as cheesecloth could be utilised.
"For footwear I recommend sandals
, with a strong, strap over the Instep. I
do not advUtt, as
noma extremists
do, discarding -hosiery.
I shrink
from thought of
that extreme be-
cause the dust of
the street IS hor
rible and menac
ing. Wear the
dainty stockings
of the day by all
means, hut let
them have large,
Joose garters
(woven Into them
as the elan tics are
fastened Into the
bloomers of bath
ing suits.
"For lingerie
with garment , I
have described I '
should advise
lighter, looser gar
ments of the same
kind. With this
might bs worn a
hr as si ere, but
never a coset.
"I should like
to see a Summer
costume devised
The Tight Skirt Is More Original and
. Individual Than the Full Skirt .
Chinese ring-neck a resident of this coun
try. Thst required private enterprise. An
American official resident in China be
came acquainted with this bird and
brought some to this country. "
The bird was then unknown to this
country and on that account there were
no fool game laws to prevent raising the
birds.. lie raised many. Most of these
be liberated In Washington and Oregon,
and as a result those States are now well
stocked. England is ahead of the United
States and Canada in many respects, one
of which is game legislation.
- In England wild game hunting Is only
allowed under regulations made by Parlia
ment, but aU the game laws of England
expressly provide It shall be legal for any.
person to raise, ship, sell and kill game .
for pleasure or profit. The English sport
ing fratcrnky learned of the success of
the ring-neck experiment In Oregon and
Immediately undertook their propagation.
To-day the pheasant population of Eng
land la twice as great as the human popu
lation of that island, and the secretary of
the "Field Rports and Game Guild'' of Eng
land an. Scotland gives in Us directory
CoDvrlcht !IU. by tha Star OoinMity. Oraat R-iJn Rhts Rsrv4
The Greek Costume,
Miss O'Neill Says,
herves the Two
n------
P08 J "Pc?y r
me uoay. it veils and
The Greek
ettes, Is
for the season of 1913-1914 the names and
addresses of twenty-four game raisers
who in that season set seventy-fire thou
san pheasant hens. Don't get the idea
that this Is a typographical error. The
flgirre is 75,000.
Os the other hand, as soon as the suc
cessful rearing of pheasants was assured
In the United States,- some of the fool
game hunters, game commissioners and
legislators succeeded in having several
States enact laws prohibiting their do
mestlo rearing and handling. The result
Is that It is taking us a painfully loog
period of time to put upon a solid foun
dation an Industry that England made a
success in tea years. It is due solely to
private industry that we have the ring
neck in America.
The States that Interfered with Chinese
pheasant culture have in the main seen
the light and it is now permissible to rear
the birds in most States. Thers are still
some fowl laws to be repealed, but as
tbey are not enforced It Is not a matter',
of immediate moment. One suoh law was
passed by the State of New York. It
permits rearing and sale of pheasants in
Pur. I 1
twin nnm X : -
,:v:. .r i ; H a: vft.. si Judge' O'Neill Says . : V-l
.' v ' ' :' ,x- :?tX' "":V.-"V . Tlib Costume Is Beau- : I ' '
( v v-i-. ; 'V; :i ' & .rf;. .C- tiful but Impossible' ' '
.".,'',!; ' ' i -v' as Polymurlel Foun-' ''"
'"'';r . " ? 1 1 ' r' 0"' '''r'"'' ' ' datlon,'.. Because It '
-, -;W';, ; . : .-j1 , ' .Denies the. Fullest
'v V ''.'"''?'?.;''! '''m: Freedom of Move-
;'; f.', , ' ' ".-i : ""'menf"
.. ' , t- that can he made In simple stuffs foi
; ? ' dollar. ThJnk of a costume tha
,, .' ' j ; . 'i eostg a dollar, that can be made U an
' . i v j ' , !. j j' hour and that one can slip into In a
' ' I minute or less. . I guarantee the
V.-. , . b,Utr;f iUCl1
costume, 'because
not only wiU it
veil the body, but
it wUl float about
It. When a woman
enters a room
there should be a
vlxlon of floating
things, of drap
eries swirling
about her aa
cloud float in the
heavens. "I hope that the
designers of the
universal costume
will keen in mind
the three desira
ble characteristics
of clothing, beau
ty .suitability to
the wearer and
the occasion, and
freedom of move
ment. It tnuxt be
an fur from bar-
ness and especi
ally from that
torturing -form of
feminine harness,
the cornet, as the
North Pole from
Tunic, with Turkish Pantal-'the south.
Suggested by Miss O'NeW "When we
the State, but forbids any person bringing
any pheasant into the State. They say
that law was passed o increase the 'ntlm
ber of New York pheasants. Another law
Is that of Indiana, which permits the rear
ing and sale of pheasants, but forbids any
railroad or express company to accept
them for shipment. The.sslnlnlty of such
laws is self-evident.
While the ring-neck pheasant In a
strange country and in all its different
elimstes has thriven because It has been
raised by private parties ss a business
enterprise, the prairie chicken, native
grouse, quail and other native game birds
have been almost exterminated by disease,
natural enemies, rodents and the gradual
thickening of the human population which
destroys their feeding and hiding places.
Give private parties the right to rear
quail as a buslnsss and the interested
persons will protect, feed and care for
them, and as a consequence they will
multiply. They will be reared and fre
quently sold to clubs and individuals who
will liberate them for stocking purposes.
Private and State hatcheries make possi
ble the restocking of our fishing grounds. '
A Costume Miss O'Neill De
signed for Her Sister and
that Approaches Her Idea
! of the Universal Gown.
as far from the . burden of clothe!
is men are we may equal or even
surpass them in great world, achieve
meats. . . At , present ' we hobbif
through our tasks and are inralcula
bly handicapped In their perform,
ance. . . ."..'..,
"Of the two extremes .to whlcl
fSHhlon has led um, I prefer the for
mer to the present. The tight skirt
slit, of course, .was more graceful
than the present full tne, for It fol
lowed the outline of the figure. 1
1roteat iigalnst the present volumln
oub skirt. It is s slipping back lntc
the commonplace.
"Men have been mnklng'our cloti
for uh. It is time that women fur
nlshed them. This is the beginning.'
The contest will continue until mid
night on the last 'day of May. Ot
June 15 the announcement of th
.prize winner, and the description oj
the prize winning garment will tx
made. Sketches of the mucli-deslrec
garment will be sent to the Poly
murlel Prize Fund Committee, No
528 Riverside Drive.
They must be accompanied by an
assumed name. In an extra envel
ope, sealed, will be the true' name
of the competitor.
All New York clubwomandom it
Interewted in the plan. MIhs O'Nelll'i
alogan has been adopted: "Beauty
Suitability and, Freedom."
are
All the protective laws did not Increase
the number of fish.
A man will protect his money, and If
his money is Invested in quail he will pro
tect he quail. It was Buffalo Jones whe
saved the buffalo in this country, because
he bought a few specimens and kept them
for their increase. It is not always the
hunter that kills and exterminates game
Disease, starvation and lack o( proper
care is the biggest factor In game destruc
tion. In u wild slate It Is estimated that
It required all North America to support
two hundred thoussnd Indians, and it la
estimated the population of this continent
was two hundred thoimand when Colum
bus discovered .it. But civilization and
comfort enable more people to live In a
given territory than can live in the same
territory In savagery. What is true of
human beings la true of game.
Also, the time la rapidly passing when
farmers who own and cultivate the land
will tolerate law made solely to permit
some loafer with a gun to tear down
fences, destroy crops, shoot domestic ani
mals, kill human beings and outrage gen
erosity for the purpose of calling hiaiself
a sportsman and killing game that tho
farmer's land hsg protected and the farm
er's grail baa fed
I