The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page H uffDwses i nfDms , -..- JPo J I L ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting aH that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Dutf-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into tlo&e touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon Describes the Kind of Dresses the Stout Woman Ought to Wear to Be Slender and the Kind the Slender One Ought to Wear Not to Look Too Thin A3 tStreet . - oi Covert Cloth, Designed to Encourage Walking. ("Lucile" Model.) THE old cry, "Why don't you de sign dresses for fat women like myself," Is the yolce" of six out of every twelve women. Al most the last thing I should care to he Is the "fat frump's friend." She always reminds me of the ostrich that trades Its head in the sand by putting a silly little hat on or wear ing a tight gown that looks as though It were "spread" on her like butter. My experience of the fat woman Is that she loves to sit at home, eat the best of everything, and then rely on an expensive quack medicine and her dressmaker to make her thin. My advice to her Is very old exercise, dancing, for In stance and I should like to see large electrlo signs outside of all dancing palaces, "Fat-Reducing a Pleasure," and let the medicine, and, most of all, the dressmaker, be the last resort. Anyway, as the last resort, let me expound and this Is where the ostrich comes In: Dear lady, you are fat anyhow, so the best way to disguise It Is not to wear a tightly swathed gown that marks every "curve," or else high collars that heap out chin after chin. My advice Is go easy, and, If your hips are large, wear one of the new wired-out skirts and make them twice as large; for, whereas is a tight skirt you show Just exactly bow big you are, in a full, sticky-out one, your friends have just to guess how much Is you and how much is dress, while with the new long-pointed tight bodice, the fattest of women can generally produce a possible waist, and there you are. Now there Is a type of big women who would look ridiculous in these dresses thst is, the aniazon and her only hope Is the thin dress. Ixng. clinging, hanging drapery are hers, even If she Is fat: all drapery beginning as high tip a possible to emphasise her taHgbt and rite, much in the same way that a short lady exaggerates her width by the full skirt. Her height can also be eiag Iterated by a headdress that stands straight up. To the tall, big woman ! advise the centre pic ture, a "thin dress" of clinging cloth of stee! draped with fine black . lace and having two girdles of large emeralds and small dia monds. Her head- dress is com posed of bands to match with two upstanding black feathers. Note how all the draperies fall from the shoulders and above the waistline and think how ridiculous she would look In the same dress if she were short and fat Instead of tall and stout. Now for Mrs. Short and Plump," in the lower right-hand corner: She has a "fat dress." Her dreBS is of black tulle with Jet embroidery, and her greatest enemy could never say that she filled trie entire width of that skirt.' while her tight waist only helps the illusion. Look at the modest little black lace tucker, con tradicted immediately by the dia mond shoulder straps. It Is really to my mind a cunning gown, and think how ridiculous she would look in the same frock if she wert really tall and stout. So, stout ladies, de sign your own gowns, or, rather, let me design them, but you choose the right ones for yourself. As a last resort, don't rely on me to "make" you thin. I'm not fat, and I didn't "make" myself thin. I kept myself slim, but I always work hard and play hard, too, for that matter. Now. I will give you a couple of drenm's for walking. I mean good walking, for exercise. The top left hand covert coating U tight and practical. It is light in weight, has a full, abort, easy skirt and nicely fit ting coat with large pockets. The stripe leather belt is rather high and the rlose-flttlng aleevea match the collar with their black and white stripe facing. Shoes, hat and stick are. of black and white to mutch. A little stripe tusaore answers the pur pose better for the afternoon wear. The lower part of the skirt having tbe appearance of being slightly closed, but In reality la sufficiently large, by reason of the bos pleats : I : J ' ," 5 . . i. , .,.! Ji :' h .,. - r Jig t -1 ' It H A uv a U i Wi In . r v '.). in m " i w it. "I i I. ' ! J K &: ' ' t Another Walking Dress of Tussore. In front which spring from below the waist, where the little double button vest finishes. The overdress Is of the same material, but made on a different grain, the stripes running cross wise instead of down. It appears like the turn-back skirts of the French soldier coat, but la, of course, much fuller and folds from the waist in the back In box pleats, an exact copy of thit from the vest In front. The material Is in natural colored silk stripe blue, which colors we have repeated with black In the waistcoat. Her hat is a green straw with a bunch of cherries and leaves at the side. A few more words for the fat ladles. Transparent effects are good, but always from a dark lining, as nothing is so unbecoming as an ugly, apparently naked, form veiled in black or other colored tulle.j, while on the other a beautiful slln form is the thing of Joy if veiled oi slightly veiled. The hair should be dressed very close to the bead in either case, as nothing to my mind la more frowsy than a loosely dressed head which looks as though it had been coifrured with a knife and fork rather than a comb. Ijong earrings often make a good line, while umbrellas or sun shades should be as long and slim looking as possible. In tbe case of double chins, ntcktacee are, of course, entirely tabooed, unless it Is a string of parls, D which case they must rcarh well' below the waist and be loosely knotted. Low shoes are preferable to high, light top boots, and the most important of all Is, however stout, an erect carriage and a good businesslike step when walking. r. A .-C - ''fRta , J XT I 'mMrv-iS 111 m -km . oil-. I... . A- r ;4 -W ; .f'i --'-r - W-ir-. . tt-t -.-y.. . if y i '.- 'A-ii V-i' ,- .-.r'-;- jtf . . v' - ,. . , r " ' j. A "Fat Dre' for "Mr. Short and Plump," and. Beside It, in the Centre, One of the Thin Dresses" the "Amazon Woman" Looks Best In. (" Lucile" Modtb.) What the Stars Promise of Good fortune and Bad for April Tils: fu'i moon figure ruling the Cr.t nsif of Apnl has Saturn ana Nep tune unfortunately in the western aet'e. which rvlaiee to lliktucy. enmity aad foreign trade A sear rupture la gov ftsmttUI resiles Is apperent. and we 1.1 be fortunate tedee4 U eoesethlnc In the aature ef a reeee ef war b aot lur ally (errv4 epea . wtta Us tth aal Uth ts dtsseetioes centres, with dtploteatle ntlr aU i ltil i 0P to Cat 4at HtU: aa srV-wl!url a4.irte ar t favorae.y coa t'.ia4 te tb Mi!l' M'elee, tvl st d;TJ ,f tfce ietit peraSel i-s ta Hr4 si uitat the rarlte Mates, ael the USjs fhe Ki,M)tt wl'.l sarrs t-i owe Tr.n U -a the tr. p f r tt 4;.fff .f Attemrted assassloatloe of a public olTI ciel probable arouod the middle of Apn;. with some aotabte accidents at the satce ticae. A toeer baroniater lustk the bfe&itig days ef April, hut Ue angular poeition r( Kat-jra wt.l begot suute Ulster a.'tern (V In eortheettsrn aad moua'.ala actktat A ralorte lone folloes on tfc Id 4th wt'tt Mare aspectlag H .a aad Uerrury Cur tada around the Uh. then a genial i ;(: er r!a ha th .. rj S. tut n hieher tev.peratv,r ft.r iie II .1. . 1 m'Ofl la eiatr lZr'-t- si iinfit 1 t.f t- n"t4 at t' i.u !-.. p.ri ...1, !kf rvMl at.ts : ! -1 ., ,' I .!? t-'ejl; r. t'e t! 5 Tie 't b to , rr .i ' ' a t'" ' - I es' m.:tn Ing the new tnooa under a Beturnlne ray. which will be more la evidence near the 1Mb. beieeea which and tbe ZOth high raest winds may te kMked for. Tbs itf Into some vert treactereua storm oadltlet. eiteadli-t up to tt. 'h. tten e S'ibaldenre of the lUmtiili to the JTlS Vau to atheUea and Moon at tertge at -om of B. oa ' h will rii failing taron tf aad a reewrreafe of ehr pten 1. a S-e!f- Inrlderita way t-m ei-fe4 1B r f.r It.e f':.v .( ilt rt A r.nat.le !( In r;t'ir lf. rh !!. 1 j f, :; A klh t f Hi 1 rf (r. Tt i-.fn f.tm tt l.rt S ! , (,..,rr. 'i,f .'' S ' ARB - .' -'u .. a " .at'r 4 . f v ') t ' ' . r I-- provement ta air planes and something along (he line ef anaesthetics Share ti arS!s smeahat dejTeel. A;r l II. A rntiral d!p:oo.atlc situation whrh rars up by thm Uth. wKh a rae surtcg jier of news from t'ablaet ctrclee. Mure rotfUenre n the es"tasgee Air'l It InvMkxis rncameat attach tn h-i Ml and rtnn maaaseoiee's A mm ln lhcfs in cr me Apnl r it W hf'i and shipping la tcieilt eo)afcgere. throirh s'rtfe of Ihe etaeta, ! of eosst:e eeets aa4-ditr-iMl n of perty la tse houtk Theee tai f itt'i's la tte eestera ritr taea the eeslera S'Mse. Ar"l i J al aee4!s rife at clnte a f ". 1 but m tlettHe IT. ., 1 1 le le- 1 f' lei- y rV -4 aiwuad the sttd lle and end of April. Th det'resatve Katuru will be strongly ta etiueme tbl tuonth for those burn hetween the 17th and :ota of March or June, or lth U i:d of KeftemLer or 1 rembe of asy year: or If la Ihe Winter of IH, Hueneter of li. ttrlog of I v.. Wlater or Mju.tnrr of lit;, fprtag of l(V Pprtng or s!l of ItTS. Hjt mr of l74. ir.a or Kail of ItTf. Hfriag of 1st: 14. or Munerr of IttZ. aad j.rtir.Urtf If Ihe birthday be aer the Mh. I'.ia or 2A ef ItU sttoa'h Japitor e-i'l a fd a r"at roelraal tor taee born In IUJ or M Uir of Isil. Maa saer ef l'-. He'tag er NsesMr ef UI, I'aUs ef ltl er lit'.. M ixf ef !. first alee saoeths ef 1T. HieiMf ee fell ef JI'l. Kessater of 1174. 'els ef It7 e IMS, er Winter or ll et !$; er U around the rluee of Kebruarf. April. June, CKtober or lecei"br of any year. I'ranua la a perturbing factor If bera within I h Tih of t'ebruary er May er Tta th of Aug jt or No ember of any year; horn and buli lalerests feo perilled, with Voee of peeiilon for thoee In eeWer meat; guard agalaM an id en t aad aersewd troeblee Tbe U 4th as aaltereartee. tacilae ta treeblea by Ut or writ tags la resslag year of l.fe. eafaierahie binhdaye for c-n aad the legal fraiernttr; slasiUrty lt 1Kb end Iita.h. Tl. Itthlt h es elWt eaalrersen. ISBreteaet4 tn aaa(la; aad eortal twettkie and fneere tbe In anutie sphere. Ihe tfealtst ft&4 :tth ef t 1 1 agr