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III
Overdressed Girl
and Matrimony
IB
LATE WINTER MODEL SMART SUIT, showing the
effect of the loose coat with the modified skirt; a very ef
fective afternoon toilet that recently appeared with the
approval of one of New York's best known costumers.
By DOROTHY IH.T.
The Old theory that "beauty unadorned"
ii the most adorned'' has few sdhrrcnti
among women In this way and ae On
the contrary, women as a sex pin their
faith In the principle that "fine feathers
mak fine birds.'
and that if the
plumage Is gorg
eous enough tt will
make any sort of a.
bird attractive,
especially to the
masculine eye.
This mistaken be.
Itef is responsible
for one of the most
piteous spectacles
In American life,
that of the over
dressed daughters
of the poor poor
little jackdaws,
strutting around In
their peacock feath
ers and Imagining
that they are excit
ing lh envy and
W
U7' ; p
and admiration , of all beholders, while
In reality they are objects of cynical
ridicule and contempt.
It "Is a common thing to see an .Ameri
can family In which almost the entire In
coma Is spent upon the daughters' backs.
The father la worked to death, and jjften
forced to go Into debt In order that the
girls may hare the latest thing in gowns,
and hats, and wraps. The table la
pinched that the money may be spent on
finery for the girls instead of food.
Mother works her fingers to the bone
that the girls may have twenty-button
length kid gloves. Every other member
of the household la shabby, while the
girls look as If they were millionairesses
when'they appear In public.
The parents Justify themselves In do
ing this by saying that they are giving
Mamlo and Sadie their chance, meaning
thereby their matrimonial chance, for H
Is a hideous truth that even loving fath
ers and mothers groom their daughters
for the matrimonial market as carefully
and frankly as a horse fancier does hla
wares for the horse market.
Now, It Is not to be disputed that a
pretty face Is all the pre'ttier when
framed In a picture hat; that a lissome
form looks all the more willowy In a
well-cut and well-hung frock, and that
not even the grace of heaven can do as
much to redeem a bad complexion and
enhance a fair one ns a sealskin- coat
docs. It is also beyond argument .. that
men, generally speaking, like to be seen
out with well-dressed and stunning-looking
women. '
So far the clothes have the best of the
argument, but there the matter ends.
Undoubtedly ''dolling a Bin up to the
limit," to use the, along phrase of the
hour, will .get 1 her beaux, young men
whose attentions are without intentions
and mean nothing. But over-dressing a
girl will do more than anything else In
the world" to handles her matrimonial
prospects.
The modern young man Is an Intensely
practical individual, who wears his pock-
tbook over bis hesrt, and when he be
gins to think' about marrying a girl he
also begins to figure on how much it
would cost to support her, and when he
beholds her clothed like Solomon In all
hla glory he gets cold feet.
"Gee-" be says to himself, "that pink
silk and lace thingumbob she's got on
certainly does make her look like a
reach, but I'm wise. It would set mo back
about two months' salary. None of this
Imported French stuff for mine, lfa all
right to take a girl out to parties and
the theater whose clothes males men
rubber, but when I marry I'll look about
for some girl who can make her own
dresses and won't expect 'me to tog her
up as if she belonged to the lour hun
dred." t ,
It 1s only too true that a sensible, level
headed, ambitious young man, with his
way to make in the world, is not only
not attracted to the overdressed girl, but
he Is repelled by her, especially it he
knows that her people are not In circum
stances that would justify them in giving
her such extravagant raiment. He sizes
up the girl who is dressed beyond her
means as extravagant, selfish and heart
less, and these are not the qualities that
he ts looking for in a wife.
' If she lets her mother wear the same
old dress for three years, while she has
a dose a new ones every sea-ion. but If she
forces her poor, old, hump-shouldered
father to work overtime to pay her bills,
. what will shs do to a husband? he asks
himself, and the answer is nothing that
leads him to assume her shopping ticket.
To overdress a girl Is the surest way
to drive away from her the men who
ars worth marrying. It does the girl an
Irreparab'e'lnjury In that during the most
formative years of her life It Impresses
upon her plastic mind the idea that
clothes are the ruobt Important thing in
life, and the thing that she must get at
ay cost to others, and even at any cost
to herself. The love of dress is every
whit as dangerous to a girl as the love of
liquor is to a bey. and the desire for fine
clothes has sent just aa many girla to
'.he gutter as drink has sent boys there.
Of course, a pretty girl should have
pretty clothes to a reasonable extent, but
her dress should be In keeping with her
means and station In ule. To go beyond
this, and to sacrifice a whole tamily In
order to deck her out In finery is to do
her BO kindness, but a cruel wrong, for
'.he overdress J girl is one of the answers
'.o the perpetual query, w"hy man don't
marry.
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1 1 . I,
The Wherewithal,
or. Love and Money
By BEATRICE FAIRFAX.
The fliuterlngs of the wings of the dear
little god makes a soothing sound that
lulls to sleep all disquieting suspicions of
Impracticability. One ho feels the air
stirred by hla winss forgets the price
of rent and bacon, and if beefsteak ob
trudes it Is not with price mark attached,
but enveloped In a sort of Incense.
Neither remembers It will cost more
for two, but each dreams how much more
enjoyable every Joy will be when shared
by both.
If either, tn a rare moment of sanity,
asks a practical question, the other Is
amszed. indignant, angry, and then skep
tical of the other's love. !0ach, knowing
this, csi 'fully conceals every symptom
of sanity from the other. It Is never a
display of wisdom that pleases the desr
little god. The blind have always fol
lowed most closely at his heels.
When the awakening comes, which, lu
common prnctlce, means the waning of
the honeymoon, each accuse the other
of the very faults which a few weeks be
fore pleased the most. ' He Wants to
know of her why she hasn't mastered
the art that makes a cheap cut of meat
ta.sto tike, porterhouse. . She wants to
know !iy he concealed from her the
fact that his wages are not enough to
keep more than one, and the dear little
god hears these questions and spreads
his wings for flight. .
Peiause even those who love must eat
and be sheltered, and the grocer, the
butcher and the landlord make no dis
counts l ees use of Ignorance and inex
perience. It, Is almost amusing that a
man should write me a letter like the fol
lowing: "Kindly Inform me If It Is proper for a
young lady to ask me If I have any
money. I have kept company with her for
six months and am very Indignant that
she should ask such a question of me.
Kindly advise me on the subject. I have
no money."
Proper: Is It proper for a girl to let
herself fail In love and be drawn Into
marriage with a man who haan't enough
money to keep her In shoes T Is It proper
to give the hesrt and receive in return
an empty home?
Is It proper to shut one's eyes and drift
to disaster on the rocks? Is It proper to
commit auicido by starvation?
The girl has given you six months of
her precioua time; your attentions Indi
cate that you want the rest of her life:
and when she asks you If you have money
your sense vt propriety is outrage). ly
dear young man. the young woman ia
eaie.. and you are not. When yon rotne
back to your wits ou Till see that a
Kill who has the courage to ask a ques
tion like that of a man who has been
monopolising her time fer six months is
a girl miKh shove the ordinary, and will
some man a splendid wife.
Odds and Ends
Ky ANN LISLE.
Life Is full of odds and ends. Most
of us chock them oft into a spiritual rag
bag. Utile stray ehames to be kind,
uncatalogued opportunities to find pleas
lire in trifles, extra blta of work, elrnple
pleasures, are all unmarked Incidents of
our dally lives. V'n scorn the "odds and
ends" of life and go about looking for big
things. And the M things fall to occur
because we Ignore the little things that
would have been stepping stones to the
greater events for which we long.
As an example of how odds and ends
Advice to Lovelorn : By
eatnee
ax
Be ery Sure of Yearself.
Dear Miss Fairfax: I am a airl of W
years and am engaged to be married to a
man whom I U not love. At a ball
short time apo I met a man to whom I
was greatly attracted and whom I huve
since learned to love. rUihsoqiiently he
told me that he Is married, but Is not
living with his wile, and as he is suin
for a dlvon e he wants me to give up my
fiance a.nd wait for him. My parents
are verv much In favor of my fiance as
he Is In good circumstances financially.
What do yon advc me to d?
A CONSTANT TtBAPER.
I advice you to make haste very slowly.
I have an Idea that you do love ths man
to a horn you have plighted your troth,
and that the man of the world who has
wooed you rather unconventionally hea
simply Infatuated you with His clever
methods. If he has made a failure of his
first marriage perhaps he would not be a
very good husband to you either. Learn
more of his story and then make sura
that you are treating the man to whom
you are now engaged with absolute fairness.
peak Emphatically.
Bear' Miss Fairfax: I am 2. years old
and engaged to a younr man thre years
mv senior, whom I have known for the
last ten years.
A year ago I wss Introduced to s gen
tleman who calls once In a while to see
me, at which time he sometimes meets
Although several times I have spoken woman unhappy?
of my engagement, he Insists upon ask
liifine out, not believing 1 am engaged.
I In lo aniioya me by writing postal
cards wtth love sayings on tliern.
KMHAKRAPSKr.
Toil must make It el'ear to thla man
that you ere engaged and that you are a
loyal and living fiancee. If necessary,
your father or your flsnco might speak
to him and ask him to discontinue his
unwelcome attentions, but if you care to
consider the feeling of a man who
scarcely deserves Consideration, manage
the affair with emphatic dignity that he
cannot mistake.
Talk This Orep Tilth r Parents.
Dear Miss fnlrfax: J am 1 and deeply
In love with a young man ten years my
nenlor.
Now, this young man is at present mar
ried, hut Is getting a divorce. Ho has
asked nie to wait tor him.
Do you think I am doing, right by
letting him call? He has a good position
and owns n house of his own.
ANXIOUS.
This Is a matter on which I do not
think an outsider should advise you. If
they consent to your 'seeing the man you
love in your own home I think there
can be no objoctlon. Because he was
once unhappy need hot shut, him off
from a happy marriage. Hut do you know
whether he was a good hue hand who was
wronged, or whether he made a fine
may he utilized, consider the practical
facts of "making over" in dressmaking
and mllllne.ry. Recently a girl I know
saw a t-X hat In a display window, the
dcitre of her eyes and heart. Hut her
weekly wage and $ hats had nothing
In common. Was she dlsoursged? Did
she satisfy herself wtth a $3.M chapcaii,
purchased at another store? Not she.
She set herself on an Investigating tour
oi mo tu.uiiy iaiiiK. In one she found
an old plush hat of 1he vlntngn or 1908,
and In another she discovered en old
waist f Ith fur bands ut the cuffs and
collar. M'lth a yard of 10-cent whits
buckrsm, a bit of wire, needlo and thread
and Ingenuity she a'.-tually managed to
copy the $20 hat. The old plush was
steamed over a Finning teakettle, the old
fur was combed with a very fine comb
purchased for 10 cents, and the I5-cent
hat that resulted from the combination;
of these odds and ends Is the sdmiratlon
of oil observers.
Just as In the practical world half
worn odds and ends may bo combined
to produce very charming garments, so
In all tie other worlds eplritual, mental
and thit of lucre enjoyment. A number
of little thJnus, each unimportant In It
self, may bo combined Into a. very at- '
tractl'o whole.
,If your home Is not a particularly sun
shiny.one ami you bring to It a plca-sont
smile In the morning nd a ichoery greet
ing when you return nt night; if your
mother contributes a little extra care lit
seasoning the beef stew and remembers
your father's fondness for apple turn
overs; If your naturally undemonstrative
father offers his wife an enthusiastic!
kiss from a departing or returning hua
band; If your brother remembers that
"the old lndy" likes carnations and
brings her tws or three some Saturday
night, and If your little stater pays at
tention to the fact that mother likes to
see deportment get a good mark on tho
report card, and that father likes to
have his slippers laid out for him on his
return from work, out. of these seemingly
trifling "odds and ends'' you will be
able to combine a unified and happy
home life. ,
Look iiver the details In your life at
home. In the office and among your
friends. Piopcrly combined "odds and
ends" make practically costleas and at
tractive hats. And so to 'properly com
bine trifles make, life a happy thing.
REAM
A Prdfession for Women and Girls
By MRS. FRANK LEARNED.
The profession of a trained librarian is
a work which Is dignified, pleasant and
fairly profitable for a woman. There are
openings for women who have the special
training and the abilities for, technical
and specialized work. For thoseto whom
tho more personal, or what may be
termed the more human side of tho work,
appeals, there are many opportunities.
Girls who have a. genuine love for
books, and who know what It is to feel
at home In a room lined with books, are
those who readily enter the training
schools which aru established In connec
tion with many public libraries.
' Girls who arc living in their own
homes snd whose parents are moderately
well to do frequently engage in the work.
They like It and are adapted to it and
not obliged to consider earning a large
salary and yet wish to be more or less
Independent.
Salaries are not as high as in some
other occupations, but a love for books
I ana (or ino won., ana ino ovurujr vi m
I perfectly protected position, these are
allurements to girls who ' are not In
clined to work as teachers or in offices.
less time is required for a training class
student snd no charge Is made tor tui
tion, a girl has more advantage as a
graduate of a regular library school.
There are a number of these schools in I
the United States. The rourso Is usu-
When Women Suffer
No remedy give greater relief than
Autf-kamnia (1-K) Tablets in all condi
tions generally known as "Wotnen'i
Aches and Ills." One trial will satisfy
any woman that (he has at last found
ths remedy aha has to long been look
ng for.
Indigestion Dyspepsia
Are you distressed after ratine? Do
you have nausea when riding in ire can
or on the train or boat? Take A-K Tab
lets snd get instant relief.
CUnmina A-K TMmf baar th M
monogram. At mil Dniggiotow
Although the higher executive posi
tions are filled by men lu most of ths
libraries, women fill the minor executive
positions snd are occupied In special ref
erence ork or In branch work. In the
smaller branch libraries there Is inter
esting work in coming in touch with the
people and helping them in the selection
of books.
In the, children's department of the li
braries 'in cities, useful personal work
can be done In iufluenclng and educating
the taste of children who come to look at
books or to take books away. The li
brary assistants ere sure to be those who
have aa aptitude for Interesting and
amusing children. Sometimes there may
be a corner devoted to the "story hour,"
when a librarian is surrounded by a
group listening to her skillful telling of
stories, or pleasant recitation of poems.
The practical rudiments of library work
ran be learned In a training class con
nected itb a Urge library, but a girl
who is smbitious and prefers te learn
yxsct library science, becomes a student
In one of the library schools. Although
ally for ' two years, although only one
year is required in some schools. The
charge for tuition Is moderate. The re
quirements for admission vary. At some
schools a complete high school course, or
its equivalent, Is required, or a college
diploma, or an examination In literature,
history, French and German. At other
schools bludents enter on a competitive
examination. Candidates must be at least
20 years of age, and must have references
as to character and ability.
The training Is In library science, cata
loguing, library handwriting, rlasalflca
tiun, appraisal of fiction, shelf-listing,
arcriscrles work, loan systems, reference
work, hlhllography, history of libraries,
indexlntr, library administration and
practical work in all departments. The
courbe enables xtiuieiit to keep pace
with all leadine movements in the libaaiy
world.
In addition t tiie "regular s liools there
are summer schools eonducUd under the
uu5;lces of varlors colleges or state
libraries.
A girl wlahing to enter thla field of
v.otk needs Industry, accuracy, prompt
ness, an- Intelligent, alert and receptive
mind. Courteous manners sud a wo
manly, dignified demeanor are essential
to success,
Salaries depend on training, ability and
experience. A beginner may not receive
mors than t'M a month; an experienced
worker may receive J75 a month. The
time for service averages forty-two
hours a week; vacations average four
weeks.
A Philanthropist.
"Yen. sir. I want to get married, and I
thought you might give me an Increase
of ouUry of five dollars a week."
"Ho that II, lif You want to get
marrle4.'"
"Yes. sir."
"A man who gets married tliess nays
Is taking big chances. I am going to
reduce your salary five dollars a week
In order to keep you from making a fool
of yourself. You will thank lue some
day." I'biladcJtUa Ledger,
IN THE JANUARY 2d NUMBER
dDnu .Sale To-EDsiy
aneinwiwMsisii MmmmmmmitimmM iiMiiiBMMmSMiSiMi5isi5jliiiii..'i l ..." .jsiTiuiis
I
i . : ' I -
V ' ,
Turning a Searchlight on Our Navy's Flaws
Our German Press on America's Aid to the Allies
Who First Violated Belgium's Neutrality ?
Servia's Account of Herself .
. Brighter Days for the Railroads
Prohibition's Day in Congress
Tempting Japan to Fight in Europe
How Plants React in Pain and Pleasure
Hand-Made Art in the Movies
Shaw Discovers an Epic s
"Herr Wilhelm Shakespeare"
A Picture of War-Swept Belgium
War-Prayers Impugned by a War Victim
A Call for Pulpit Purists
The Powers Courting the Vatican
Graphically Illustrated 10 Cents from All Nevs-Dealers
FUNK 4 VVAGNALLS COMPANY, (Publisher, of the Famoui NEW Standard Dlctiontry) NEW YORK
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