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8
T1IK BEK: OMAHA, SATITRPAY. DKCKMBER 2fi, 1014.
0 0 Hats, Large and Small, and Tall, and Suitable for Each and All &
Republuhed by Special Arrangement with Harper's Bazar .
" " ; : 1 ; s
Two saucy skunk pom- A pompon of ostrich A clever use of striped Odd bits of brocade can A chic hat and a muff Bcaoon lights of yellow It's a chrysanthemum, A feathery hat worn with
pons nod in the front of attempts to hold back squirrel in this velvet be worked into a wonder- that is a mass of silky .wool at the front and at but of ostrich, that gaily two capes of ostrich and
this rose velvet hat the upturned brim of hat and, to the right, a fully effective neckpiece frills caught by one. the back on a brown vel- decorates this white vel- an embroidered net collar,
which is banded in bluo this white hatter's velvet and tulle confec- and muff set, and a piece large rose and a velvet vet hat banded in skunk, vet hat banded in er- backed by tulle frills, held
ribbon. plush model. tioH for the crown. neck. Frills of tulle at throat. mine. bv a rose.
American Fashions for Americans
- v 1
Bj ELBERT HUBBARD.
I-ondon used to set the styles for men,
aid Paris for women.
However. It so happons that today the
term "European culture" brings a smile
-ad. satirical.
There la no such
thing m "culture"
In Europe when
we consider the
fact that gno.000.000
t o P u I a tlon are
there engaged In a
terrible struggle,
the object of which
la to destroy life
Bind property.
Sherman said It
first And a people
at war, filled with
thoughts of de
struction and an
nihilation, are not
fitted to create
fashions, because
they do not repre
sent of the Joy of
life.
One effect of the terrible struggle that
Is going on in Europe Is to make this
country self-reliant.
There are a great many commodities
which we have depended upon Europe
for.. Now we will have to produce these
things ourselves, or go without.
It Is a somewhat humiliating fact that
'women's dress of reoent years has been
patterned after the clothing worn by the
nymph du pave of Paris.
We have been told that In women's
dresses the fashion makers have actually
' 'outstripped" each other.
The skimpy, short skirt, clutching at
the equator, tight where It should be
generous, bunching where It ought not,
wi designed with Intent to prove that
the wearer waa Just merging out of girl
hood and had outgrown her clothes and
waa In danger of bursting. Into life like
st full blown lose at an Inopportune time.
The good old claaslo garments of our
grandmammas are strictly out of the
game, and the wash out on the line Is no
longer Interesting.
Parisian styles have been adopted by
Americans without a second's thought
tif where they originated.
Today aane and sensible women In
America are gating a line on these
modes.
And there hss been a suspicion for
many years that much of the hilarious
mirth of the Parislana waa for commer
cial purposes.
1 myself have seen In the cafee a man
at the front door give a signal, when
the hilarity In the back room would start
up this on the approach of a party of
American tourists.
One thing sure, the Americans are
filled with the desire to.be honest, to be
simple, to be direct, in aU of their af
fairs of life. And the fashions should re
flect the hearts of the people and their
prevailing mood.
America haa one-sixteenth the popula
tion of the world, but we have one-third
the wealth of the world, and In a short
lime we will have one-half the wealth of
the world.-
Our wealth waa obtained by honest ef
fort, through intelligent labor applied to
land and through ministering to human
wants. Wo have helped ourselves by
liclping other people.
We are now at a pivotal point In his
tory. I'p to this time America haa been a
I'toneer country, and pioneers, naturally,
look elsewhere for their fashions.
Fashion Is a matter of culture, a har
monious arrangement evolved to a point
which we term art.
But we have passed now from the pio
neer period Into the artistic or creative.
From this Urns on I believe that the
fashions in the clothing of men and
women will be formulated right here in
our own America.
We have every condition here for the
evolution of the artistic, the useful and
lite beautiful.
Ws have tbe soil, the sunshine, the ell
Mate and occasionally we have weather.
But. bett of all, we have tbe men and
women strong, earuesl. hrlpfuL intelll
Kent people. whoe desire is to benefit
and bless. Tha fashions we will set will
" areet.Bi snapes, modeled with an
Idea of expressing the individuality of ,
the wearer, harmonising with height,
weight, age, complexion and mental en
dowment.
There must be a certain amount of
latitude In fashion; this Is to meet the
peculiarities of personality. We must
not ail be Ironed out to one dead level
of mediocrity.
The flowers are nature's milHnery.
The birds are the choristers of nature.
We have been told that nature unadorned
Is adorned most, which Is merely a poetlo
saving that listens good, but analysed the
sense escapes us.
People who are filled with the Joy of
life find satisfaction In adornment.
And so I predict for tha millinery busi
ness a future bright with sucess. glowing
beyond our fondest hopes.
Tha mora progressiva a people are tha
more successful, the happier they are
the more they will find satisfaction In
millinery.
It Is for us now to co-operate and
evolve American fashions, and as Bu
ropa will have to come this way for her
foodstuffs and for her ' fabrics, so I
prophesy will she come here for her
fashion.
Our Joy Is not a matter of pretense. It
Is spontaneous. It Is not born of spirits
frumenU. With It the Widow Cllquot
s very little to do. It Is the natural ,
exuberance of harmonious living.
The dead-life of drudgery of pioneer
life lies behind. Art can only come when
a surplus has been accumulated and a
little leisure Is earned.
The good things of life are now to he
found in America if anything In the wide
world, and there Is no logical reason why
America aholuld not set her own stylos
and be herself mistress of the wardrobe.
And If In the process It happens that
women will again adopt the good old.
time customs of wearing underclothes.
Just lovely lingerie, such as our grand
mothers wore, made of cotton, and these
made of American cotton, what a change
will be worked In our economic situation.
No longer will we have to urge tha
slogan, "But a Bale of Cotton."
This will be taken care of all by Mis.
tress Fashion, and America will be
proudly prosperous as never before.
Let us hasten the day. Let us not only
be merchants, but let us be artists, and
let our slogan resound: "American fash
ions for American men and women."
Girls and Their Mothers
V . ' -
Br BEATRICE FA1RFAJ.
1 have a girl friend who is It. She
Is the only girt In a family of four broth
ers. She says that her mother Is always
nagging and thinks she ought not to go
out for any kind of pleasure, but as soon
as she gets home from work should busy
herself about the house. It is different
with her brothers. She gets so
despondent about it that sometimes she
threatens to leave home. What shall I
advise her to do?" writes J. 8. R.
Advise her to show her mother some
of the sweetness and consideration her
brothers lavish on the older woman.
Advise her to show the other woman
In the house some of the kindness and
courtesy she offers the women she meets
In business.
Tell her to feel that her mother is her
best friend Instead of going about with
a "chip on the shoulder" attitude and
expecting to find trouble waiting for her
when she steps into her home.
Urge her to take an active Interest In
her home; to try to make It attractive; to
feel pride In sharing Its labors, to bring
her friends Into it and to demand that
they show her mother deference and
courtesy.
These things ought to be given In
stinctively by every girl to her mother
deference, respect, affection, help, sym
pathy and confidence.
The girl who goea to some man friend
with tales of her mother's selfishness and
lark of understanding seems to me to be
a girl lacking In fine feeling. 8he does
not seem to be the type of womanhood
that Is kind and fine and sweet and lov
ing; but rather she suggests womanhood
that whines and looks for trouble so In
viting it, and then complains to whomso
ever It does not concern, In the process
of trying to Invoice undeserved sympa
thy. . -
It la very likely that In the home. of
which J. B. R. speaks the brothers greet
their mother each day with a morning
kiss, that they "Jolly the old lady along"
In a slangy, breesy way that makes her
feel young and part- of the active life
she sees going on around her. Probably
they often bring her little offerings of
candy or flowers. Even If they are a bit
rough and masterful, they probably make
mother feel that their strength Is ready
for her to lean on If she feels tired from
the labors of bringing up a family and
caring for them through the early years.
They may even find little ways of light
ening her tasks.
Does the daughter do any at these
things
A girl and her mother ought to draw
close In their unity of experience for are
not they both women? A girl should make
her mother her confidant and she ought
glvs sympathy to the older womaa with
as full and free measure of affection as
that with which It is given her. She
should lighten her mother's tasks ss only
a daughter can.
Tell your friend to try 'this program
tor Just one week: Get up early enough
to help with breakfast. Greet mother
each morning with real affection. Ask
her how she slept and If she is feeling
well. Buggeat doing little errands down
town at her noon hour. Come home as
soon as work Is done, end bring Into the
house a spirit of gladness at being In
the sanctuary of homo, and a little bit
of interesting chat from the outside world.
Make mother feel that the day's work
snd play have an added intercut from the
fact that they wens observed with the
Idea of telling about them on the return
home. Offer cheerfully and readily to
"get the supper tonight," so mother may
have a chance to rest from the routine of
supper-getting through the long years.
Wash the dishes after dinner and ask
mother If she won't stay up and meet the
friend who Is coming tonight and who has
been told so much about "My .mother."
Why not treat mother with this much
consideration? It Is what she has of
fered and had accepted through years.
It has been absolutely taken for granted
that mother would trest daughter thla
way. ' Why shouldn't daughter do aa
much?
If mother has wearied of serving and
has gone on strike, why not win her back
to loving mother feelings by a display of
loving daughter feelings?
Koon enough mother will protest against
daughter's working far too much for a
young girl and will Intint that ihe go
out with the other young folks and enjoy
herself. Out here Is the great secret of
treating mother, fairly. ' Once you have
begun, you' come into your heritage of
true womanhood loving service.
When a girl experiments for one week
and treats her mother with some ot the
unselfish and loving consideration tbe
mothers deserve, shs rsn never go back
again and fel an alien and an enomy
to the dearest friend nho can have it only
she chooses to mako her so her mother.
Advice -to Lovelorn
l! By BBATBXOa rAJKTAX a
(11 Yoar Hosts.
Dear Miss Fairfax: ' I am going to
spend the winter with my grandparents
in the south. A friend who lives there
has asked me to take a five days' auto
mobile trip with him through that o
Ucn. A young married couple are to to
company ua es chaperons. Mother says
it will be all right for ma to go but
father says it would not be proper, what
do you think about It? fcJLLEN.
You must conform to the "custom of
the country" where you are visiting and
put yourself undrr the guidance of your
grandparents. Since your parents differ,
I should consult my grandparents and
let them have th casting vote. Person
ally I do not favor the trip unless the
A NOVELTY which bids' fair to be popular in late winter
and early spring models is the pointed skirt. The model
is in new empire effect of blue serge with pipings of yellow
suede cloth. The hat is of black velvet, with black rep
ribbon rosette. .
Why the Chaperone is Out of Date
By LADY GROVE.
J I-
jf net'-.-!-.! !- A I
in H?Kp
- r;-I
chaperons are well known to you and
the young man is a tried ajid true friend.
Even then I do not advise you to go un
less your host and hostess feel that it la
proper and cannot arouse any unfavor
able comment.
BrldrarvM'a Wrrfdlaar Ks pease.
Dear kllsa Fairfax: I am a young man
and am to be married soon. 1 am ig
norant as to the precise things 1 must
pay for. Is It my place to pay for the
wedding reception, the wedding cards,
the bride's cake, the bride's bouquet, the
carriagea to the church, etc.?
1 am a poor young man and starting In
life with a wife: do not wish to go to
any more exprnse than I can lirip to
carry my weJding through succensfully.
IQNOKANT.
Ths bridal bouquet comes aa a gift
from the bridegroom. If he has ushers
and best man, he givas them some little
remembrance. Apart from this the read
ing of the wedding invitation is carried
out. and the mother and father of the
bride, who have asked people to come
to the ceremony, give the affair and de
fray Ita expenses.
Gift for a Nil,
Dear Miss Fairfax: I have a friend
whom I have known two years. He is
very nice to me and always takea me
out. At Christina, he had slvsn me
books and flowers. Would It be proper
tor me to vet some handkerchiefs and
embroider his Initial in the corner for
Christmas? If not. would you please
sun s.st some little remembrance which
would be appropriate. . NATALIE X.
Get the handkerchiefs by all means and
add your own work to the gift. This will
be In very good taste and Ojfhl to de
light the recipient.
The greater freedom enjoyed by girls
In whose families a generation ago the
1 daughters of the house were never al
lowed to put their noses out of doors un
accompanied is an Immense stride to
ward a saner view of life adopted by
present-day parents.
Years ago, as a young married woman,
I remember remarking to an old friend
of mine how ridiculous it seemed that
I could go out as I pleased, and that
her girl, who was older than 1, should
have to be guarded If she so muck aa
crossed the street. "
"Ah," she wo aid say to me, "wait, my
dear, till you have girls of your own out
and you will see that you will be Just an
particular as I am.
Her prophesy has not been fulfilled.
I should think very poorly of any
strong, able-bodied girl who was unable
to look after herself either In the streets
of London or anywhere else. The dangers
to which a girl are exposed from her
fellow human llngs are few and far be
tween; the savtge tramp or the accom
plished villain is the exception and not
the rule. ' There have been Incidents, the
recital of which makes one's blood curdle,
but the circumstances which make these
occurences possible are easily guarded
against.
That a solitary girl should not be left
,n jlumtAn rtf htftr hfliiM .Inn. 1 A t A
t" " " - "
at night or in tlio early hours of the
morning, I certainly think. She might
. find It difficult, or, at least, unpleasant
I to defend herself against an evilly-dis-:
posed prowler who might attack her for
I the sake of any possessions that seemed
i profitable to him to attempt to acquire.
! But this remote danger is easily averted
j without any interference with a girl's
) rational liberty.
I To bring a girl up without self-reliance
I and a sense of responsibility Is the un
klndest thing that can be done! I know
' a girl whose mother Is not only old-
fashloneJ, but old, and her tall strapping
girl la usually accompanied In the street
! by a timid but rather pretty little maid,
i The maid will leave her precious charge
and be forced to brave the snsres and
dangers of the return Journey alone.
Now, as a matter of fact. If there were
any danger, the risks the pretty little
maid would run would be far greater
than those her buxom but not singularly
attractive mistress would encounter.
But respectability still has her slaves,
and she Is being hard pressej to main
tain her dying power, so do not let us
grudge her her few remaining devotees.
Respectability will have to yield her
place to respect-worthiness, snd with the '
advent of the letter's reign, the satel
lites of the former hypooriry snd show,
will be replaced by true molesty and
common sense.
At balls, the stricter observances have
been superseded. When I was a girl,
going to balls. It wss de liqueur that
one should present herself to her mother i
or chaperon after each dance. I remem- !
J once, aiter having ventured to Infringe
this, rule,, being sought., . found and
severely reprimanded. I did not see then,
1 do not see now, what useful purpose
this strict limitation to time imposed
upon ea,ch couple could, serve, but I had
never heard then of the tales, whether
true or otherwise, that'occaslonully reach
me now, of young men and maidens
doing their "sitting out" in a paaslng
hansom that they coolly hail outside the
front door of their hostess' hcuse. There
waa a time when for a girl to' go in a
hansom at all was considered a very
"fast" proceeding! And I have a very
distinct recollection of feeling very dar
ing and "naughty" when I indulged in
so reckless an adventure.
At niy first queen's ball 'as they were
called in taoee days), the year I was
presented, I heard of a girl who con
sidered herself fortunate in having met
an old family friend, middle-aged and
with poetic tendencies, under ' whose
escort she left her mother's side. They
did not dance, but wandered off to a
cool sequestered corner in one of the
rooms ot the many-chambered palace,
where the soothing strains of the "Blue
Danube" vatse played by Mr.- Liddle's
famous band, reached them faintly. The
regulation twrie having more than elapsed,
tha anxious mether sought her charge.
- . v ;
"Why did you not come back before?'"
he demanded.
"I couldn't, mamma," whispered the
child timidly. "Mr. A. wer.t to sleep."
I wns more fortunate in my partner,
for he happened to be a friend of II. It.
II. The prince of Wales, as he was then,
and we were -bidden to Join the royal
Lancers v. hlch waa Just being formed.
And a girl who danced at all at her first
queen's ball was considered a person
much favored by fate.
A "bas-Bleu" was a much rarer 'Vara
avis" In those clays than she Is now, and
those who considered that a "tinge of
blue became a charming woman's stock
ing" were certainly the exception. "Par
lor tricks" on the other hand, are not
expected in the same way nowadays.
Unless a girl does a thing particularly
well she docs not do It at all.
"What are you going to do with your
life?", demanded a young collegian of one
of her youthful cousins, who diffidently
replied that "she didn't know."
"I am qualifying for public life," as
serted tho first, who Is now a much-sought-after
orator, and the other, the
happy mother of a small family.
But I cannot agree with those who
say that there Is less sympathy In the
present day between parents and child
ren. If the views of the children have
widened and their sense of responsibility
Is greater the mother, too, have kept
pace with the times. The daughters
grow up quicker, perhaps, but the moth
ers remain young for very much longer.
That the sprightly matron who once
said to me:
"My Tiny," (I have not, of course,
given the real pet name she used), "and
I tell each other all our love affairs,"
carried this "camarderle" to an extreme,
I admit, hut mothers and daughters
share the same Interests now. In a way
that would have been considered Impos
sible In days later even than those of
Jane Austen and Marie Edge worth.
And the girls of tomorrow, what will
they be? Tsll r.nd strong and straight.
Straight In m'nd as well as straight in
limbs, the petty vanities and puerllties
! supposed to be Inherent In their sex will
have dropped from them with the saner
and wider view of life that their mothers
will hae begun to grow up with. This
Is no Idle dream, for the seed. Is already
sown, and the fruit will ripen In the
years to come. Thev will be essentially
womanly with all the beat attributes of
womanhood. They will glory In their
sex instead of half resenting it aa the
more forward spirits did In the daya when
the Ideals were lower and the oppor
tunities for self-developmnt fewer and
more barren of result.
- How To Make the
QulckesttSlmptest Cough
Kemeay
Mirk Better ths
Made Klad i
tho Ready.
ait aa.
Fatly Ouraateed
This home-made rough syrup is now
used in more homes than any other cough
remedy. Its promptness, ease and cer
tainty in conquering distressing; coughs,
chest and throat colds, is really remark
able. You can actually feel it take hold.
A day's use will usually overcome tha
ordinary cough relieves even whooping;
cough quickly. Splendid, too, for bron
chitis, spasmodic croup, bronchial asthma
and winter coughs.
Get from any druggist 2V4 ounces of
Pinex (50 cents worth), pour it in a pint
bottle and fill the bottle with plain gTanu
lated sugar syrup. This gives you at a
cost of only 54 cents a full pint of better
rough syrup than you could buy for 92.60.
Takea but a (ew minutes to prepare, l ull
directions with fine. Tastes good and
never spoils.
You will be pleasantly surprised now
quickly it loosens dry, hoarse or tight
coughs, and heals the inflamed mem
branes in a painful cough. It also stops
the formation of phlegm in the throat
and bronchial tubes, thus ending; tha per
sistent loose cough.
Pinex is a most valuable concentrated
compound of genuine Norway pine ex
tract, rich in guaiacol, which is to heal
ing to the mein'anes.
To avoid disappointment, be sure and
8 your dmegist for "2i ounces Jinex,"
and don t accept anything else.
A guarantee of absolute satisfaction,
er money promptly refunded, goea with
this preparaijon. Jag fines. it.
Yvayna. lad.