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Souffle Tea. Gown In Thren Shades. Lncilft" Model V'.S J-' I
By LADY DUFF-GORDON
("Lucile")
THE war, dreadful aa dt U, -will bare Its
measure of opportunity for America.
There are no fashions now in Paris,
nor will there be any this aeason.
Paris win be again, ant Paris fashions
will be'agaln, no matter how the great strug
gle ends. But In this suspended aeason la
an opportunity for the American woman.
There is no reason why she should not cre
ate a national school of fashions while she
Is free, for a time, of suggestions from the.
boulevards.
These new models of mine I call Ameri
can fashions, because they are some of
those I designed after the gates of Paris
bad closed.
Here Is a photograph of Miss Ethel Levey,
the American actress, In one of the new
Fall coals. The broad bands, collar and
cuffs are of silver fox. The coat Itself Is of
broadtail, embroidered with Oriental colors.
The tea gown Is of three shades of blue
and. stiver. The dress Itself Is of the palest
gray blue. .The overdress and scarf are of
deep periwinkle embroidered ia silver.- The
whole effect Is a wonderful background for
the pearls,1 which form the only jewelry
worn.
The evening dress with wrap for early Au
tumn I at i particularly proud of. The dress
' la of oyster charmeuse, with a belt of velvet
The Gate
I
p a Holy War results rrom xne
present conflict In Europe, one
ot the principal objects of the
Christian nations will be to wrest
the Holy City from the possession
of the Turks.
One ot the most sacred spots in
the Holy City la the Golden Gate, lo
cated on the east ot Jerusalem, and
fhown in the accompanying Illus
tration. It was through this Gate that Christ
entered Jerusalem riding on an ass
over branches strewn in the road by
a multitude crying, "Blessed is He
that cometh In the name of the
Lord!"
Long ago, the Moslems sealed up
the Golden Gate, believing that as
the Saviour, had entered Jerusalem
through It before, He would use It
again on His return.
In Fuller's "Plsgah Sight of Jeru
salem" an interesting account of the
Golden Gate Is given. After describ
ing other gates on the eastern side
of Jerusalem, this well-known writer
says:
"Next foltoweth the Golden Gate
(not mentioned In Scripture but
merely depending on human au
thority), so called because gilt all
over, vulgar beholders - (who carry
no touchstones in their eyes) ac
counting all massy gold which is
richly elided. Roman authors add,
that when our Saviour, in an humble
but solemn equipage, rode on an ass
colt to the temple, this gate opened
unto him of its own accord, a pretty
proportionable fiction.. For, if the
iron gate opened to Peter, a disciple,
no less than a Golden Gate could
offer entrance to Christ, his Master.
Only here's the difference: We re
ceive the one as recorded in Scrip
ture and refuse the other ss not rt
.
CoDirlaht. 1914. by
m
S. ' Ik- I-
Trimmings
which matches the cloak of the same ma
terial. The wrap Is heavily trimmed with
blue-gray fox furs.
The charming little toque Is one of the
new feather tocques which were about to
become the rage In Paris. It Is made up 'of
the entire body of the green parrot with
outspread wings, shot In blue and green.
The head of the bird is low at the back of
the neck.
This use of the feather toque was one
of the signs of a season In which even more
brilliant fashions than last season's w.ere to
prevail.
Taffetas, by the way, had been granted a
further lease of life In black for evening
wear, and navy blue fox daytime occasions.
Moire of the specially Bupple texture,
which Is now the most necessary quality of
evefy fabric, is &1bo n to be noted down
among the "survivals," though It will be very
frequently just relegated to the lining of
coats and cloaks, more especially when it
is patterned with stripes in such daringly
contrasted colors aa sapphire blue, damask
rose and emerald green, all gathered to
gether on a black ground. An even more
imposing array of colors in Roman stripes
on black or dark blue moire grounds will
also figure as linings and trimmings black,
Cobalt blue, Indian red, beige and pale gold
That Is Sealed
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The Golden Gate of Jerusalem, Soiled for Centuries Against the Second Coming of thd Saviour.
tb Star Company. Great Britain Rlchts Rtscrvad.
Use of the
New "Lu
cile"'Fall Coats with
of Silver, Fox.
L
ADY DUFF-GORDON, the
most creator of fashion in the world, writes each week the fashion
article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best iri
styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into close touch
with that centre of fashion.
being a tyiflca collection of contrasts.
For though as regards their outer color
ings a somewhat subdued scheme of repres
sion may, and will be, the hall-mark of
Fashion, we must needs break out into a
riot of shadings somewhere, so much have
we grown to love brightness during the
color orgies of the last two or three seasons. '
And so it Is that the linings and the
sashes and other such additions and details
are so designed as to amply satisfy our re
quirements in this direction, and, what is
more, to display themselves in an equally
attractive aspect in whatever way they may
be arranged.
There is, for instance, one glorious me
tallic brocade in the brightest sapphire blue,
so Interwoven with silver as just to show a
haunting shimmer every now and again
through its clustering roses of dull gold and
purple and pink. But, reverse it, and the
suggestion becomes a definite and decorative
reality, the whole, beautiful blue background
Against the "Prince of Peace"
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Lucile" Evening
Dress and Wrap
for Early Autumn.
famoui "Lucae" of London, and fore
being covered by a shining meshwork ot
stiver In lace-llke design.
Another marvel of design and manufac
ture which will be quite ideal for a deeply
swathed sash Is so curiously patterned with
broad stripes as to be really almost sug
gestive of a flag!
And, verily. It Is worthy to be adopted
and waved aloft as the Flag of Fashion.
For in it black gives place to vivid carna
tion pink, and this again to mandarin yel
low; while, after a dividing line of black,
there comes a broad banding of real tur
quoise blue, a gleam of the green of emer
alds being also Introduced, and each and
every lovely c'olor being so closely Inter
woven with gold that they shimmer and
glow with every movement, till at last there
blazes out a great stripe of brilliant gold
tinsel which runs the whole length of the
fabric across those other stripes which take
so many different directions and sometimes
form a sort of half square.
ported therein, especially our Savlotif
having so fair an occasion to make
mention thereof. For when the
Pharisees questioned Him for not
silencing the children's hosannahs,
and when He returned, that lf they
would immediately cry out,' how
would Immediately cry out," how
easy had It been for Him to add that
the very walls of the city had al
ready opened their mouths (their
gates) to receive Him.
"But whatever doubt there may be
as to the Golden Gate having opened
of Its own accord to receive the
Master, there Is no doubt at all that
His entry Into' Jerusalem was
through this portal. Hence, the per
formance of the Turks in sealing
It up."
The Mount of Olives, also seen la
the accompanying illustration, has
undergone many changes since sacred
times. There are a few olive trees
there, but they scc-m out of place,
for the hill has long sluce been en
cumbered with modern buildings. A
Russian tower has boen erected la'
the vicinity of the Golden Gate.
The Garden of Gctbsemane looks
like some modern adjunct to a
country villa. Franciscan fathers,
have Khored up some of the morel
venerable olive trees, and iron rail
ings and wire netting here and there
give the sacred region a pronounced
"Please keep oil the grass" aspect,
which is somewhat incongruous.
Describing the new Jerusalem,
Robert Hlihens, the novelist, re
cently declared: "I see before me
various pallors: whites, yellows, yel
low grays, yellow browns, rlnky reds,
pale dust, pale mud, pale puddles,
white-faced men in yellow, moving
with an air of combined defiance and
surreptitious servility along roads that
look suburban, between large, light
colored, new houses." .
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