if
THK NEK: OMAHA. THURSDAY, sKPTKMRKR 10. 10U.
Assertion
Filmy Gowns on Clever Lines
Eramplens of French Art in Dressmaking Which Will He H-qualed Dy American De-
Mcmers Now That Necessity Demands It.
The Art of Dressing
Folly of Trying to Cheat the Veins ly Wearing
rnsuitaWo (Jowns.
By ELLA WHEELER WILCOX.
(Copyright, 1914. by Stsr Publishing Co.)
I am serenity. Though passions beat
Like mighty billows on my helpless heart,
I know beyond them lies the perfect sweet
Serenity which patience can Impart.
And when wild tempests in my bosom rage,
"Peace, peace!" I cry; "it is mj heritage."
I am good health. Though fevers rack my brain
And rude disorders mutilate my strength,
A perfect restoration after pain
I know shall be my recompense at length.
And so through grievous day; and sleepless night
"Health, healthl" I cry; "it is my own by right."
I am success.. Though hungry, cold, ill-clad,
I wander for a while. I smile and say,
"It is but for a time I shall be glad
Tomorrow, for good fortune comes my way.
God is my father, He ha wealth untold;
His wealth is mine health, happiness and gold.
American Fashions at Last
Now That the Paris Designers Have Gone to War, We
Can Build Up a Dressmaking Industry Here.
v A -
t Tit ,r "i
in-
the
By DOROTHY DIX.
(Copyright, 1014, by Star Company.)
The nsws comes from France that
Messrs. Paquln, Worth, Polret and other
famous couturiers have laid aside the
eclssors for the sword and gone to fight
for their country,
and that, until this
, cruel . war Is over,
: there, will j be no
more Paris' fash
Jons. ...
Thus does a mer
ciful. Provide nee
temper even the
horrors of battle,
and If ths Inventors
of the hobble skirt
and the' stomach
' band sash and the
wrinkled basque,
and the other
atrocities that have
been Inflicted On
femininity of late"
should be slain.-
there are a lot of .
us that would she no -tears over their
loss.' But in all seriousness, . this war
gives ths American dressmaker her
chance to show .what she can do, and to
forever break the golden chains that have
hound her countrywomen like slaves to
the Parisian' designer. ---.
rWe -have talked..,- lot-of lata .years
about American fashion for American
women, and many of na have looked
forward prayerfully to a glad day when
we would not only have clothea designed
and made by our own people, but clothes
that would corns nearer to meeting the
needs and expressing- the Jane Ideals of
American life than do the flibberty-Jlb-berty
confections we get from Paris.
. We are tired of wearing garments that
look as If they were designed by a person
suffering from delirium tremens to be
worn by individuals afflicted with soften
ing of the brain.
It has always seemed -absurd that
.u.. mrio. that has iwooea
world with Its marvelous machinery and
... ntntd labor-saving device, and
whose bridges and skyscrapers nave m..M
Europe marvel, hadn't enough Ingenuity
to trim a hat or devise a new dress. Aa a j
matter of fact, it has. ' ' - i
Our dressmakers and milliners are just,
as artistlo and Just as skilful as any In
Paris or London or-Vlenna. The trouble;
has been that heretofore they have had to ;
work under cover. Women had been so,
tmhued with tne Paris superstition, and i
. have made such a fetich of the Paris
trademark, that our own designers have
been sacrificed to it!
- Whenever a dressmaker created a par
ticularly beautiful confection she had to
pretend' that it was the work of some
Paris designer. When a milliner turned
out-a dceam of a hat, she had to attribute
it to a Trench woman, or else her stupid
countrywoman turned up their noses at It.
. It Is ah open secret that ths tags of
If mpus Tarts milllnrra and dressmakers
are sold In'.Amerlca by the tens of thou
and, and are -calmly sewed in dress and
hats that have never been within thou
sands W' miles of France. It has been
estimated, that seventy-five per cent of
the "Paris garments sold In America' are
Do You Know That
An Idea of the extraordinary driving
force Imprisoned' In succulent youig
mushrooms niajT.be gathered from the
fact that through a shop floor laid down
In asphalt tare inohes- in- depth. In
DuMdis, ' Niw Zealand, several mush
rooms.' from two to three Inches In dia
meter, forced themselves up Into the
light of day, a few weeks ago. The as
phalt in the near vicinity looked very
much as tf a pick bad been at work.
General Huerta, the central figure In
Mexico's troubled affairs, Is giving some
of his spare time to learning th English
language. In enrolling as a student.
General Huerta gave his address as Calle
Bolivar U (No. W Bolivar street), Mon
terey, Nuevo Leon, Mexico, and his oc
cupation as "general In the Mexican
army." He Is now l years of age.
A young bachelor who was staying at
a fashionable spa, near Iresden, was
recently challenged to a duel by the hus
band of a young woman with whom h
had flirted. The bacttelor, who Is ao ax.
pert amateur boxer, replied that the
, challenge was accepted under the usual
condition namely, choice of weapons.
.His choice was four-ounce boxing glovea
The husband sent word that "The matter
may now be consldeigd as settled "
For th eighteenth year In succeaaiun
W. King walked the greasy pole at
Ttnes, Tievon. regatta,' and secured the
leg of mutton hanging at the end.
rc-ally made in America and designed In
America.
. Nor are the people who sell these gar
ments to blame. It Is the customers who
force the fraud upon them. Any woman
who 'designs a beautiful hat or gown
would like to sign It with her own name,
Phe would like to get the credit for it.
It the foolish and unpatriotic woman who
buys It was not willing to pay more tor it
because of its Trench label.
Now that the war has put an end to
even the alleged Importation of French
fashions, it gives the American milliners
and dressmakers their opportunity. They
can claim their own good work and con
vince their doubting Thomases of sinters
that American wits are as keen, Ameri
can fingers as nimble, American taste
as good, and American sewing a thou
sand times better than the Parisian. Also
that American designers can concoct gar
ments that will be beautiful and sensible
Instead of freakish.
If we can .establish American fashions
for American women we shall open the
door of opportunity to multitudes of our
countrywomen and keep millions of good
American dollers at home.
And we shall take dressmaking and
millinery out of the despised trades and
put them where. they belbng. among the
artistic professions. This -will attract to
them the . wornen' who have, .a. highly .de
veloped eole-f'sensa and a knowledge of
form and line, and who are, now starv
ing along trying, to paint pictures for
which there ls no market.
These women will find their medium of
expression in silks and satins and vel
vets, Instead of oils or water colors, and
they will grow rlch and famous, for
women will vie with each other in pos
sessing their masterpieces.
Men say that the European war is go
ing to build up a great American marine.
Believe me. It is also going to build up
a great American dressmaking and millin
ery Industry, and henceforth we arc not
going to brag that our clothes were made
abroad, hut that they were made at home.
I f li ir &s --
st'-?- '.vV i
I '' ' r-:i ' i ''irvV,- t:wf!
1 ' n - 'J ' ". V'-M- a
I ' , ' 1 y v - ' J f
It 1 m? xs - v I I eviH!'1!
II - ...v. i .'V.-JA k . uHtVl"- II'
f i ; . . t ' vl 1 i ' ( t 1 s i I H
Wi N, 1 f: ' , , - xs H j , i, , y I n
m V - ' i si' s' I ? i - t i fr ; I M
v - v t . . . 1 t j t u ? t i if r
Y ' " t. V 9 V
AvjI 7 :'j' 1 1
lift . ti Vat,
' x;i ' V sv
yon have grown to womanhood. And If
you are an old man. don't give up one lot
nt the snort mil placid (llsnlty of quiet.
lmpli H!irntn that will frame your a
limlrad of tnnklnR It n frnmr for glaring
a RliMy twentv, and hieo pour rlnklrd j alimirdltlcs.
fsoe betrayed her an sixty, although she I Keep In vo ir own grnerntlon. Dress as
had Httrnirtfd to rover the trarrs of Unit- I bi'romrs your yers Make your clothes
NO. I.
By BKATIUCK 1 AIHr ..
A few daS ago I imln out In the street
ar with a woman whtwe i.otlun p'lloil
The sauie-en-barque, the blouse of the. sailor, was
much worn this season. This one Is or white em
broidered net over a pretty little frock of same ma
terial, the blouson being girdled by a sabh of Roman
striped silk, blue and white, the skirt slightly draped
very low at the back over a high flounce of em
broidered net.
This French model gown of Nile green, and silver
brocaded satin, shows the value of cleverness of cut.
The skirt, circular in front and back, Is draped on
the zouave shape. The pannier falls across the rest
of the skirt in a series of ripples. From under this
short overskirt falls a petticoat of fulled silk point
d'esprlt.
with n coat uf -artl-oolored paint. Most
of the pafsengnrn were mn'ltng lyly or
openly grinning In rlillrulu of tt.n miu!
old i-iealuie. Hut I thought her poor
taste aa almost trash.
j ne very nrsi ruir or food drei-smg is !
to eat rlothrA unllnlilr to your aae. i
After that you must consider your color-1
U.K. flKiire, particular stylo am; tyi-. !
Hut It will lend you no (harm to wear the
Ninartest of clothes if Irtey are babyish
and Ingenue lit type, while you are evi
dently forty, or l lengthen your skirts
and Imitate the sophisticated clothes of
a woman of thirty tf you ai swt-ut six
teen. Yon may select cloth. Dint Keep you
.v.ninx looking or cmpliHSlte our youthful
sweetness and fieshneitn. Hut you must
keep lit your own aenoiMtlnn In choosing
your sarmt-nls.
"Sweet sixteen" loikt well In girlish
and simple little froelon that make her
appear like the fowsr a lie la. Hhe may
wtar hats faced In shell pink and with a
bridle Una of black velvet ari-oea her
smooth white throat. Fhe looks attractive
In frilly skirts and haby waists. Hut let
the wrinkled woman of W or the buxom
dame of 3D hewara of these same clothes.
They will make either woman a carica
ture.
Tailor-made suits of smait cut anj dig
nified street clothes become tin woman
of mature charm, even as soft clinging
sUks and fichus are a very lovely settUig
for the grandmother.
But nowsdays many women wfar
clothes so far out of their own genera
tion that they give an Impres. lon of being
Just ready ffr a masquerade.
It seems almost unbelievable that ,a
woman of i will don a white shepherdess
hat, a dress i f lavender and white or-
Kiin-lle cut ver, low aa to Its lacv :ieck
and very high as to Us scant skirt, in
numerable chains anl linxa and pins,
purple silk stockings and gilt slippers,
and so attired set off on a shopping ex
pedition. Hut that la exactly what the
poor old creature who Inspired this ar
ticle was foollsn enough to do. And then,
in order to live down to her silly, girlish
clothes, she covered her wrinkled face
with paint and attempted to whitewash
her wrinkled throat.
The moral effect of such rlothea Is baa.
Old age claims ne respect when so at
tired, tt has no dignity.
But youth dressed In mature and elab-
orate clothes. Instead pf In it" own pret
tily simple garments, la pathetic, too.
The effect It profitless la the absurd one
of a little child dressed up In Its mother's
clothes. All the charm and swaetness and
modesty of youth are well worth preserv
ing. They cannot ha kept alive In ever.
elaborate or sophisticated-looking clothes
Youth must not dress in the clothes of a
woman of the world.
Between the extremes of youth and age
there are mistakes In dressing, but they
ara most glaring when the extremes Illus
trate the felly of garbing yourself out of
your generation. Mother and daughter
must not dress alike.
If you are a woman of dignified years.
dress with dignity. If you are a rhlld
wait for the clothes of maturity until
ti t your time of life,
rule nf good dres.H'nc.
That Is the first
Advice to Lovelorn
Br bzatkicb rAiarax
r'alic I'rtdr.
ler Mi's Fairfax: I have been keep-
lni compsnv with a Rlrl two years my
lunlor for five months. Am I learned
to lover her dearly and thought 1. too,
was her desr friend. Am a university
student, bin having no parents. 1 make
mv own way through, working aa a
painter during summer vacations
A few weeks ago. wnue
Palntln work niitsiile of a
doing some
structure, I
hw her st the corner, where she sioon
anil elislteil with xcveral girls, none of
whom I knew. I quit my work and ap
proached the group, greeting my rrlenn
heartily, but to my surprise she acted aa
tlioiiKh she dlil not know me well. I was
not Introduced to her friends, and seem
ingly she did not care to speak to me at
all. It was plain she was embarrassel Uv
my appearance. I wore overalls and my
hands snd face were smeared with pa n
Two days later she sent a note to mm
an Invitation to a party ven at her
house. 1 never answered this note, in
deed. I made up my mind "ever to see
kn ...in ton an time iir-- ........
.... .u'.t i !.- her ion dearly to hi
.hi.- net to -ee her: yet, I douht great!
as to elncerily of her feelings.
Ho you think I shall dlHregar.1 ' at I
owe to mv self-respect and d'jpijty hV
..it.... h. r ..autn? lo you think, and
th's l of far greater imports nee to me.
thlr girl, after all that happened, can In
he course of time develop a truer fitentk
sliip to me? M- R u 1
When the girl you admire seni you ...
Invitation to a party at ner nom. . -
she meant It as a tacit apology for the
v eak and silly pride that made her spub
you bec ause you did not appear to advtn
tagr amonti her friends. It was false pride
as great as hers that made you oct
rudely as not to answer ths note You
owe It to your dignity and manhood to
o'fir an explanation of your suencr..,.
gentleman does not snub women, .sin tell
her of your own hurt and why you' were
driven to hurt her In turn. Your frlcivl
shlp ought to come out of this ordeal ai.d
be better snd finer than ever before.
Don't Be In Horry to torrr. ,
Dear Miss Fairfax: While on my vaca
tion I became acquainted with a girl
of 10 years, who caught my fancy. Hue
was married one, htir husband having
died and left her a child 2 years old. 'he
Uvea on a farm with lier mother, and I
like her for her free, outspoken manner.
Although I acted toward her only aa a
friend during my short stsy, 1 confess.
Inwardly, that I leva her. 1 am 21 years
old. In business and of good standing. I
have hud many opportunities, but I really
liked this girl the minute I made -her ac
quaintMnre. Mv mother, when I told her
of it, Is verv mm-h against me. Hhe at
first tnl.l me that I wasn't old enough,
but when I told her that the girl had
been married and had a child (of course.
I did not tell her of this at first, but held
back until ths last minute), then she
wbs really angry at me. In this matter
what wuuld you advise? M. JC.
You are loo young to marry. Since
you have ucled only as a friend to the
girl for whom you care yovt do not owe
her your loyalty. But you do owe a
great dcul to your mother, and I strongly
advise against your making a marriage
to which she objects.
Sear your favorite music on .the Victrola
any Victor dealer will gladly play it for yom
The following Omaha an d Council
Bluffs dealers carry' complete lines
of Victor Victrolas, and all the late
Victor Records as fast as issued.
You are cordially invited to inspect
the stocks 1 1 any of these estab
lishments. -
Sir . j y -. .
Daily demonstra
tions. Go today and
see and hear the vari
ous styles of ; Victors
arid Victrolas $10 to
$200.
Victor Talking Machine Co.
Camden, N. J.
Sctin
oiler &
Mueller
PIANO COMPANY
1311-1313 Farnam St. Omaha, Neb.
Victor Department on Main Floor
Branch at
334 BROADWAY
Council Bluffs
Cycle Co.
Victr jlas Sold by
A. MOSPE GO.,
1513-15 Douglas Street, Omaha, and
407 West Broadway, - Council Bluffs, la.
JBrandeis Stores
Talking Machino Department
in the Pompoian Room
I.
lsawy-i a- :T -
r :
;: . -XX
!, ,11
Wfi
fill!
-: I j
Victrola XVI, $200
Maboaoy or Pa
si m
it
4 i
I ; I
; - (
1 i !
I i
(