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The Robe Intime in All
Its Fascination, and the Silk
Rest Robe Now Hold
Paris, in Their Power
The Cape oi
the Day.
Rose
Colored
Satin Vcloura
Draped
In Sunburst
a Style.,
By Lady 'Duff-Gordon,
IS thore anything more fascinating,
mora ,entising and 'more pocket'
' bookroaklng J than tboioralnlno
frlpporlos of the momont: Jtho toa robes,!
jtho llngeriQandWhatJnot7 'Verily I,
(tblnk J not t I ' -wonder it ' thoro ' llvcsV
civilized woman hoso'soul tails to re
spond (when j sbo sees f BUcb) dolectablo
(boauttos ,as 'tbo!lady4r of J asnion I wears
In her' hours Jof case.
. Ob.Uho luroof clolhesl Imagine. If
you please, ho soul thrills of n' woman
who I has J never jtadv any rsuch lovely.
Intimate clothes as 1 am going to wrlto
you about, when aho beholds them for
thot first time. And especially i when
Bbe48&csJtbora worn by I some beautt
' fully. Jemlnlne'perBon!
The i magnlflcenco of Niagara may
over-awo the imagination, may mako a
woman i spoechless with ''wonder, tout
th(s I foellna Is as nothing compared
with that which 1 surges over a woman
Jwho finds herself .Inp'beautjV ahop"
with unlimited 'Bums 'of monoy at hor
disposal!
Balzac has w said that a "woman t Is
moBt feminine when eho'ls at hor dress
makers. 1 agroo, yet disagree with
that M not-to-bo-approaohod mastor of
words. Woman is utterly feminine
jwhen considering clothes, whether it be
at her dressmaker or In herhome. tut
she is suporforalnlne when shopping
for frillies to adorn her own dainty
porson. I am'minded here to say that
daintiness Is a feminine characteristic.
,The man who is avowedly dainty in his
habits wo call effeminate, and Justly so.
,1, believe firmly that daintinesses' in
herent Hn every "woman. She may
through poverty, or disaster, lose the
power to preservejt'but the desire for
lMs always thoro" undor tho skin. K
is the spirit of daintiness, of fastidious-'
ness. andnot'a sense of 'virtue which
i&eeps most women moral.
No, I am 'not getting away from my,
subject, Just amplifying it a little.' 1
do sot like to bo kept running along.1
Hketramcar on a single track. I
like to scatter myself and make my let
ters cover fas much) ground as your'
editor1, will permit k For Instance, be'
fore going on! to "talk tea gowns cud
boudoir 'caps I ' onould Uke to put you
thoroughly In the spirit to -enjoy them I
Therefore I shall tell you'about some
marvelous aromatic baths which one of
ourmost7harmIngvactre8se8 told me
otheother.day. She conOdedtome
that shenever,,l oh? never ! ' put f on 'one'
of ( her rest J gowns"'' without t having
flrsl plunged 4 into : tub filled with
aromatiolwaterI.give youhere her
,very special pet formula: 200 grammes
;eacbjof (dried J thyme, rosemary,' ma!-'
,lows and linden steeped In eight quarts
jof boiling 'water jfor'ono half hour,'
f t mous r "LudleV of London. and SMmSbBT jrfy . iiilnHswff
,r foremost creator of fashions in the tKBBMBSm&B! sdtitofKP' ' - S? LHfekiBiaB
,f world.' write eachweekthe:fathion;aM SBMBwKUtiE&Kvi i tW' S& HHb
tide for this newspaper.' presenting at that mKiBa8BlrE'$&ik- "Sr- ' ' VHlKBiBiiBBW
sh tsVPi ? fi . . .v. 'WHkw wh i ii ill ii 1 1 1 milium jr wis. - - is 'i iiiwi m fcMW
tThe Gown Intime." Tea Gown of Flesh Colored'Chiffon and
Black Malines Lace.
The Kobe of the Heart Tea Gown of Flesh Colored Charmeuse.
White Net and Valenciennes Lace.
while this is; steeping dissolve 260
grammes of bicarbonate of soda; add
this to the bath
"After 4 this." my charming friend
said, "I slip into my loveliest fllmlost
under I things. , and . my ', most fetching
over dress, and really ! am' ready, to
conquer the world."
And of her conquering ability 'and
ber Intense feminine charm I am 'well
able to speak) She has the world of
Paris at her feet not only because of
her talent but because of ber gracious
and all-pervading femininity And she
would not be nearly so feminine if she
did not wear these wonderful tea gowns
and rest robes, to say nothing of tie
under things. v Some day I shall' oak
your editor to let me write of the under,
things of Paria. Ah. tfcat "would bo a
theme far more . interesting than tho
underworld.
Tbe three photographs I am sending
you this week show a wda range of
thought If not of style. The gown
inUme, with Its rare lace flounclngs, it
one. of the most fetching of Mile.
D 'e tea gowns. Tho foundation Is
several layers of fresh colored chiffon,
on which are draped flounces of strik-'
Ing black mallne lacea The whole af
fair wraps about the slender uncorseted
figure of the. wearer In the most grace
ful' manner 'imaginable
The.'Ttobe'of the, Heart" Is just'as
interesting as i the lotlme sown, it has
the waistline outlined with a wreath or
tiny "roses and forgetmenota.' and the
whole thing .'seems to be made of a
series of wnlte net ruffles, sharply scal
loped. Is It. not bewitching?
The cape of the day Is. strictly speak-,
lng. not a tea gown, but this original
Uttle person sometimes wears It over a
slip of'lace and airy. frills. As It Is a
luscious rose color It can be thus worn,
with the most devastating effect on the
beholder In tills picture the model la
wearing a severe little cap, ' But close
your eyes and Imagine a becoming cap
of lace and use buds perched on tbe
girlish head and you can readily under
stand why Mile. D changes Its pur-
pose quite ofte
THE modern woman who delights to Jingle a ounoh of
miscellaneous charms at ber wrist and who Is on
the lookout for fresh Ideas will learn with satisfac
tion of a collection which Includes every form of luck
emblem the world has known
This collection, at a moment when every motor car has
Its mascot and every watch chain Its fetish, has a curious
or rather Ironical significance, and Illustrates how little
human nature has really changed and how devoutly men
and women of all times have believed in their individual
"destiny" and guarded It against malign Influences.
It Is Included In the Historical Medical Museum. Lon
don, and comprises Egyptian. Roman. Arabic African. Chi
nese. Japanese and European pieces, ancient and modern.
The Egyptian charms include several small examples
of that most famous and potent of all. the "Ankh." or key
of life, which in Egyptian pictures Is often seen in the
hands of divine personages But by far the commonest Is
that known as the "uatchat" To ward off the prevalent
ophthalmia and other eye affections the ancient Egyptians
used to trace on tbe lower eyelid a magical scroll-shaped
pattern wJtb powdered antimony, and the model of an eye
so decorated was also worn as a charm. There are also
found ear-shaped charms against deafness, numan teeth
carved like Sphinxes. Another vory rare figure represents
a man holding 'his hand to his face as if in pain. It Is be
lieved that this charm Is the only one of Its kind In
existence.
The Roman collection dates back to about the time of
Christ The exhibits are made of copper-bronte. and aro
of tbe usual shapes. A very Interesting figure, concerning
the nature of which little Is known, represents a small
horse, while another shows a shark's tooth embedded In a
clasp of metal These are rather bigger and more clumsy
than the Egyptian ones and much less desirable as or
naments. Beside the Roman exhibits are early and late pieces
from West and Central Africa, the Congo and Arabia.
Among i these , Is a necklace labelled "Kubll." or "Kill
Sixty." which was no doubt worn by a warrior. There
are also several wooden crocodiles with flat, smooth backs.
It Is said that these were used by doctors when punllng
out a difficult case. The doctor rubbed the crocodile's
back and the animal told him what was wrong.
That "Bring Luck"
The modern collection'' is' even . more ' interesting Tthaii
the ancient It' is a revelation In present-day, supersti
tions, every Item of it having been recovered from! tho
original owners within the last few years.'. The first piece'
Is a small stone, like a human foot, carried about by a'
Frenchman, who believed that it cured his gout and who
parted with it very reluctantly. . In the next case is a piece
of amber shaped like a heart and used to ward off rheuma
tlsm until three years ago. A "rheumatism potato" from
Norfolk lies beside it Near these are two cards,' each
bearing a pair of raqlo's feet, which In Norfolk are still
carried about as a toothache cure.
Other curious. Items of the same character are a small
bone from the ankle used to ward off cramo by the East
Country people; a piece of vervain root, which is supposed
to be a protection against witchcraft, and is still in re
quest In country districts for this purpose; a roll of eelskln
obtained from a Suffolk woman, who carried It to prevent
cramp, and a fossil sea urchin from a cottage which it
protected against the devil for many years.
The sheep's heart stuck full of pins and nails." which
was obtained In 8outh Devon. Is specially interesting, as
this was used to break the spell coat by a black witch upon
a herd of cattle. Beside it lies a strand of red silk taken
rrom the neck of a Norfolk child, who was troubled with
bleeding from the nose and 4 wore. Oils charm as a pre
ventive. " '
The Island of Mull has yielded an example of a very an
cient and well-known spell to charm away toothache. . Hera
It is with all Its eccentricities of spelling and grammar:
"In the name of the Lord God. Peter sat on a"
marble stone weeping. Christ camo by and asked
What aillth thee Peterr Peter said 'O Lord Ood I my
teeth doth Itchle.' Christ said, 'Arise Peter and bo
whole and not only thou but all them that carries
these lines for , My 'Name's sake ; shall x never have
tootnacn.
Mar?Mcl2a"nd"W,Ul th Iacon, 8tat0enf "Made'for .
- . 8e of "J8 charms seem to have had no parUcular'slg.
nlflcance. and were Just worn "for luck " but ltm
LrfonU1,nnhat t,herC " .many PeSwhaWrVy auch .
astonishing odds and ends about with them jeligiousliuand 4
.would be quite.unhappy.wlthout.thenj, cm je"ouai 3
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