he Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Pag
L'J-
y Trotting Dresser v from the
Parir ioulevarcLr iy Lady
Duff- Gordon .
favoring. This sash Is a develop
ment of the Oriental girdle, and
holds In the long tunic. The
sleeves are of rose chiffon, and
are full, being gathered In to a
tight band at the wrist Even
wjth the long tunic the waist line
Is distinctly outlined.
With this costume tlio bride
will wear the small, over so chic
hat which is shown here. You
will notice, too, I hope, with all
these trotting costumes the bride
has the severest kind of par
asols. In the "Glimmer ot the Sea"
costume I have used a rarely
beautiful shade ot champagne
taffeta. When the hem turns
there Is given Just & glimpse of
fwo Vlowa of "The Gown of the Hour," Chic Morning Costume of Rose .9ft flsBI'
Colored Silk Crepe, Showing the Newest Form of the Oriental jK V'.Jk v - ttA ifffH&
SoBh Glrdlo and the Newest Box Coat. fELti & JrltHsVi1
aordo,,. M - mmmtT Tl 1W
jf
dull peacock satin. The two over
skirts aro lined wtth this shade,
and the girdle Is of peacock blue
green sattn embroidered in gold
and silver. Again the sleeves aro
long and hat flower trimmed.
The skirt of the "Green Mead
ows in June" has two overoklrts,
both shaped very much toward
tho front. The coat, with Its
wide, full girdle, forms the third
tunic or peplum. The sleeves of
this coat are not set "in, although
they are wrist length. I have In
no Instance used high trimmings
on any of these hats. The low,
flat flower decorations are, I think,
so much lovelier than the tower
ing effects produced by feathers
and ribbons.
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile; of London, and fore
most creator of fashioni in the world, writes 'each week the fashion
article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in
styles for well-dressed women.
Ladyi Duff-Gordon's Pans establishment brings her into close touch
with' that centre of fashion., i " f'
By Lady. Duff
TO;bo, In, Paris In; Juno means that ono
must have many of tho simpler modes
lnicostumcs. JOnoJmuBt have a num
ber ; ot afternoon gowns,1 hatn i so I numerous
that a different ono may bo worn with each
gown,' and all one's accessories must bo In
perfect i harmony t with J ono'a . costumes . and
general appearance.'
For instance, tho parasol. There aro doz
ens of shapOB to choose from, but only ono or
two that aro permissible when milady is
wearing a tailored morning costume. But I
am not going to write of parasols or other
accessories . lhl week. ,My whole mind is
centred, on somo vory . lovoly "trotting"
dresses "which, I have recently mado for a
Juno bride, and I want to tell you about them.
-The- contest between those who want tho
1830i models and, those who want thoso ot
1880 is still on. tit wages fast and furious.
Neither stdo will give in, and the result Is a
wonderful mixture of "period" gowns. At
Auteull tho day the King and Quoon or Eng
land, were thero tho "pesago" resembled a
room In which an enthusiastic but indiscrimi
nate ' person had mixed Adam, Jacobean,
, Sheraton and Louis XVI. furniture - Here In
I the "pesago" ono saw 'bustles and Empire
waists, - Turkish trousers and lampshade
tunics, full pleated skirts and slinky, narrow
ones, i Even the haughtiness of tho Olreptolre
age was there, and, the. ugly. sensoriousness
of the Woven age.
'Just close your.oyes'and think of the room
I havo already mentioned, and you will gather
ouuio lutm oi wnai mo "royal enclosure."
JICDUBU, 1UOKOU 11X01
No, my llttlo bride did not wear any of her
trotting gowns that day. She was away on
her honeymoon; but tho memory of those cos
tumes Is so clear that I shall take pleasure
In describing each ono to you.
Every skirt clears the ground by two or
throo inches. Many ot the "trottoura" aro
being mado four Inches from tho ground, but
I do not advlso this. Twoor at the most
throe gives tho moro gracoful offoct Then
again thero are somo gowns which must
barely escape tho ground. They hamper the
walk but then why walk?
Theao costumes I am sending this week all
show a clean pair of heols to the world, and
this means that tho hools must bo very pretty
In outllno and absolutely perfect In appear
ance. Tho French woman may not have a
protty foxit. she may not be able to buy tho
roally wonderful shoes and slippers you make
In America, but never, never will aho wear a
shabby shoo or one that putB to shame her
gown and hat
In theao costumes you will notice that
In every ono the line of tho figure Is broken
by ono or more tunics, or as In Figure 5 by
a long coat.
"The Gown ot the Hour" Is a charming af
fair developed In rose silk crepe. Tho nar
row underskirt has the silt In tho back and
the odd sash effect which some of the mon
dalnes, especially those of a slenderness. are
"The Glimmer of the
Summer Sea," Cham
pagne and Blue Crepe,
Double Tunic Costume.
A CCOUDINO. to , Professor Borgonle, the celebrated
- French authority on the nutrition of the human body.
the eating hablta ot modern civilisation aroall
wrong, instead of obeying the call ot appetite,' as we do,'
and as most physiologists toll us is the only reliable guide,'
our' houra of .eating should bo 'established) in conformity
with hours of tho day.wlien the 'body energy is rising, Irre
spective of appetite.
tn presenting totho French" Academy of Medicine tho
results of his researches on this subject, Professor Dorgonle
remarked that the. way we now divide our waking hours
with respect to meals is deplorable. We eat a light break
fast at 7:30, when the most marked rise ot our energy do
mandsf the' heaviest meal of tho day. Wo take a heavy
luncheon at 1 o'clock and a heavy dlnnor at 7 or 8, which
.are tho very hours when a sharp decline of energy should
forbid usto cat at all.
In tho first place, rising energy Is required In the per
formance the digestive functions. , Secondly, one of tho
principal objectsof taking food is to supply tho body with
Internal warmth, which is the samo thing as energy. This
process begins with tho act of oatlng, the nervous system
responding during hours of rising energy almost Imme
idlately. Therefore, the two propositions supplement each
other,' without any Interference with that other Important
(need of food the repair of broken-down tissues.
... " 7take our meals only at tlmeo of declining energy,
that decline is still further marked because of the very
lack of energy with which to Immediately assimilate nu
tritive material. And that, according to Professor Bergoale.
is exactly what Is brought about by our present "deplor
able" system of meals.
' .. prte"' Bergonle's experiments began with a system
atlc study of the energy expendod by man during a day of
twenty-four hours. He discovered that the different states
ofour bodily energy aro marked by tho clock for tho rea-
Why Our Habits of Eating Are All Wrong
son that the customary hours of sloop are marked in tho
ftme way. uuring sleep tao amount of energy used Is at
Its minimum. Energy accumulates during theao hours. At
tho time of rising It Is reaching Its maximum. After rising
the expenditure of energy is resumed, but energy continues
to rise for a few hours. Shortly after rlslnc, therefore, tho
conditions for taking food aro tho most favorable of any
hour of tho entire twenty-four hours.
Tho longest period of tho day and night has elapsed
since food was taken. The stomach Is empty. Food Is
needed, and there Is energy wherewith to convert It Into
renewed energy Immediately by way of the nervous sys
tem. Thus Professor Borgonle appears to prove his theory
that the breakfast taken shortly after rising should be the
heaviest meal of the day.
Now comes the argument against tho heavy luncheon.
During tho hours up to the middle ot the day there is the
greatest expenditure ot energy. The accumulation during
sleep, supplemented by tho genorous morning moal taken
at the right time, Is becoming exhausted by noon, and by
3 o'clock Is at its lowest point To eat at all during this
period of energy decline would only make matters worse,
and a heavy meal during thoso hours seriously overtaxes
the liver.
But at a llttlo after 3 o'clock tho body energy begins to
rise again, and by 4:30 a light meal will help along the
process. But It should bo only a light moal, for tho com
pletion of tho day's work means that thero Is a small jro
portlon of energy available for dlgcstlvo purposes.
It appears that tho very worst ot our eating habits Is
that of taking our dinner the heaviest meal of the day
between tho hours of 7 and 8. For the day's drafts on the
supply of energy havo left the whole body tired, with tho
lntornal organs In no condition to convert food Into energy.
Toward midnight, however, the body becomes somewhat
rested. Another light meal can then bo takon with advan
tage, becauso as very little energy Is expended during sleep
In other ways, there Is a sufficient amount to carry on the
work of digestion.
This completes tho twenty-four houra' cycle, with meals
taken whon they will do tho most good according to tho
Investigations of Professor Bergonle.
Tho French savant was careful to explain to the mem
bers of tho Academy ot Medicine that this arrangement of
meals la not theoretical, but tho result of practise by an
entire family during an uninterrupted period ot six years.
From the viewpoint ot perfect health he considered the test
most convincing.
It will bo noticed that these reported results are in sharp
contrast with thoso promulgated by other authorities, who
quite generally unite in the teaching that food never should
bo taken without appetite. Appotite is urged as tho main
consideration, becauso when appetite is natural and normal,
that Is the time when there is the most generous flow ot
digestive Juices. Does your "mouth water" at tho thought
of food? It it doesn't the glands supplying the digestive
fluids are not ready to pour them out Consequently, If food
Is then taken Into tho stomach it will He there undigested
the most terrible consumer ot energy that exists.
The books of Horace Fletcher, and the experiments at
Yale University under hts direction, appear strongly to
fortify this argument Not only Fletcher, but other ex
perimenters, declare that food should not be taken except
at the demands of an active, normal appetite, no matter
how long one has to wait for the anpetlte. The whole
"fasting" cult acts on tho samo principle and claims aston
ishing results for health. The hours of meals are held to
be of no consequence compared with the natural craving
for food.
Physicians quite generally condemn the habit ot taking
heavy meal In the middle of the day, for the reason
that It Is apt to bo eaten hastily and that hard labor of
mind or body immediately afterward further interferes with
rapid and complete digestion.
Sport Costume
of White
. Gabardine, -with.
Red and .
. White
Striped Silk
Facings,
Small Red
Hat and
ed Pumps.
"Green Meadows In June," Trot
About Costume in Green Taffeta,
with Belted Coat, Forming Third
Tunic
Professor Bergonle is also in sharp controversy r with'
most authorities respecting tho morning meal. Tho latter
argue, in the first place, few people havo any appetite for
food so soon after rising. Secondly, that most stomachs
early In the morning are mere flabb, bloodless bags, in
capable of carrying on the energetic work ot digestion
until exercise and deeper breathing than occurs during
sleep have brought them jaok to life.
Quite possibly this condition, however, Is dua as Pro
fessor Bergonle remarks to our long-continued "deplor
ablo" eating habits. It Is natural to assume that such a
revolution as he preaches could not be accomplished in a
day, or a month. His experimenting family devoted six
years to It It probably Is a case of "off with the old love
(habit) before you're on with tho new."
A year or two ago Professor Bergonle created quite a'
stir in medical circles by his announcement of the results
of his experiments with electricity for nutritive purposes.'
He bad proceeded on tho theory that, as the essential pur
pose of food Is to supply the body with Internal warmth,)
that object ought to be better gained through the medium
ot electricity.
He experimented upon himself, passing through his body
low tension, high frequency currents. Ho testified to his
brother scientists that tho results were affirmative and con
clusive that thoso administrations of "electric food" actu
ally increased the patient's weight, thus restoring lost tis
sue as -well as supplying requisite heat and energy.
Copyright, toil, by tho Star Company. Great Britain Hlghts Unserved.
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