1 I r it 8 I" ,:t o V HE OMAHA 5UNDAY oEE I II IS 1 if VIAGA ZINE Page i III AAnAl sxrtJIiAe A Caviller Comm of Fl-CotqreJ Ttfett. Wont l Hue w Prk By tAy Daff-Gordofs. ILL faaVdO htfc bfttetM favhltflt. bttt&M-fashloBt b4"elr c I la fais, Before tsUlag ya ( sosb fasotaatleg HM of tke' Mft miwt describe two cotuMi wfclek I nlw few wetks ago at the tm. Tfcire wu Mi! At ai "UMy" about 4tU, w as.R was, ntM&el vwyvv w ?Tfi raw Ce f Um iMt fctUlttl tTS. ob & Freaeh rtfte Vora'-'wfca I lisMtil aly mmm4 a Cavallr cmUsss, It wu b14t ,l ri taffetas, the eap, whleli gave It Hs mjbc, betes; llne4 with ft atart Mac M4k ftai wV( ro4Wdla. The bod fck vu tlght-lttk affair, timer" In fact. The cape had the high collar which oaly tho woman with a lone, slender nock should wear. I particularly liked tbo bat It was Galnsboroush to effect, with a wtda ribbon band or streamer com lag from the under side of the brim and drawn over to the oppo site shoulder. The hat was a corn colored affair, trimmed with pink rosea. The streamer was pale blue satin. The black taffeta' and crepe turn HP sown was very striking:. Tho taale, was accordion pleated and was festooned tn an unusual fash ion. Tho graceful "open&co" bod Ice had the h!gnollar effect -which teems roost necessary this year, and the extremely long sleeves. The hat worn with this ohlo cos tume was tn sharp contrast to tho wide affair I have already described It was black Milan, with a high, pointed crown, and Its highest point topped' with a black tan taste. Oae strlklarfy pretty novelty Is she ptaei&g' ef big pearl wkltt shells In the . treat T a little white crape kat. which, tor the reet. Is Just banded about with a narrow black velvet ribbon held In a frvmW Uttle bow at the bate' ef the aheil' Ja fret , The, ftcafa, another white crepe bat baa two ornaments which. In color and shape d general effect, might easily acd Actually be lobster elawsl As a &at tar f tact, the likeness Is so dose that they bitiet -needs have been medelled frita theea particular and owhat pro LADY DUFF-GORDON. U ftmou "La. cite of London, nl forcm.it creator of fashions in the world, write each week tlrt fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in rjrles for well-dressed women Lady Duff-Cordon Paris establishment bring her into close touch with that centre of fashion. salo edibles, their actual composition be ing, however, milk, subjected to some now solidifying process and then deftly colored. By the way, these lobster red orna ments are affixed to tho sides of the hat by big sapphire blue pins, so that thore Is patriotism as well as picture squoness In the resulting color scheme of this latest Parisian creation. It would seem, indeed, that there is to be a great vogue for white hats this Summer, satin, taffeta, moire, arcophant and crepe being he fabrics chosen for the making of these cool-looking and .charming -models, and touches of black often figuring in their trimming. One typical and very pretty thing in white satin has a narrow black velvet ribbon drawn round tho low crown and tied In a p'rlm little bow at tho right side, though it Is afterwards hidden from view by a half-circle of full-blown pink roses, above which rises ft' stiff row of leaves in the shining -black patent leather, which Is also being used to model many rather weirdly marked and colored blossomB7-pre",m- aoiy anemones, or -poppiee tnoir glossy blackness being hand- painted with -splashes of white, or browu, or tawny orange. Three such strange and smart flowers figure as a central trimming on a little old rose- colored silk hat Thee, curving all along one side, are seme wheat ears of brilliant sapphire blue shading! Truly the ingenuity oc ne lasaion makers is wonderful and endless. To go back to the white hats, however. M Tura-p r 4 "" A t v W.e im ; . . J The New "Curler" Coiffure and the Latest " Frilly Neckwearv some of them arc kept spotless tnroughout by Just having a cluster of white coquoi feathers fastened at one side, though even more fascinating, perhaps, is tho arrangement of tho curling white plumage all round the crown of a little satin hat and the introduction of Ju&t two littlo , quill feathers of. the palest possible pink or very daring this I one single strand of scarlet Many floral bats, too, then ere whlcn, above young, fresh faces end naturally 'bright hair, will look charming. A mass of ldttlo roses modelled in whlto muslin and silk and just tinged In the , centre with faint yellow will thus cover & small smart shape in white areophane, with a brim bordering of straw, the only thing to relieve end give height tf the flat, compact mass of flowers being a little yellow-plumaged bird -which has alighted with outspread wings at one side. Another and plateau shaped model of pure white roses Is; left without any further trimming whatever, though Its sharp up-turning, at the. back brings nto effective contrast a closely packed' mass '' of roses' wbloh ere all black. So much for the novelties of which every one will have a full vjew. But there are others, equally notable, whose fascinations must needs be reserved for the favored lew, inasmuch as thes take the form of underwear and nightdresses. 1 Social Sanity Threatened, Says Our Foremost Psychologist Prof. Hugo Mueiisterberg, of Harvard, Points Out. in His Latest Book, the Modern Ten dencies Away from Social Equilibrium, De clares Old American Qualities Have Been Lost and "That Imperial Rome Should Be a Warning to Imperial Manhattan' r By Prof. Henry L. Weston, Ph. D. PnOFESSOU HUGO MUENSTERBEItG, of Harvard Unlvrxatty, who is 'commonly regarded as the lending psychologist of America, has Just published a new book of es nys "Psychology and Social Sanity" (Double day Page Co.). The distinguished psychologist appears to be of the opinion that America Is rapidly wnnder log away from social sanity. He sees grave dangers in the universal crnzo for sensuous dances. He fenrs that nil the best eloments of New England Puritanism hare been perverted or submersed. He finds that the whole country is being flpbded with sex literature nud sex plays and that the proposal to give sex Instruc tion to young people U a grnvo menace to modesty and morality. He even looks forward to a time when dlsreputablo women will sway the public life of America, as they formerly did that of France. He fears thut the Ideals that made America great will be lost In the rising tide of socialism. He i alarmed to rind- that a. large part of the population la victimized by whm ho calls "the Intellectual underworld," composed of seers, mind readers and quacks, who prey on the superstitions of the weak minded. In fact the American nation muxt appear to the Harvard Psychologist at times like a vast iunatla asylum. The pew dances are the social phenomena that the professor evidently regards ns most disconcerting liot to way exciting. Here It must be remarked Unit the tnngd and the maxlxe acquire q new Interest When described by so eminent a scholar. "Can we deny," asks Professes Mueutterbsrg, "that this recent .craze wulch, like a dancing mania, has whirled over tbo country, is a slg. nifitant expression of deep cultural ..change which have -come to America? Only ten years ago such a dancing fere? would have been im poealble. People danced, but tbey did not take it seriously. It was pet off from life and not slewed to penetrate it It bad still essentially the role which belonged to it In a puritanic, bard-worklng society. But' the last decade ha rapidly swept away that New England temper, .wfclcli was so avf re to the sensuous enjoyment C life, 8d' wUJcklons kept nn invisible control oyHh the spirit of the whole nation. Symptoms the ch,e abound; h&w U came about Is. an- "Crtaljy. tie tecrease and tbe-wlde distribu tion of wealth with its comforts and luxuries were responsible, as well as the practical com pletion of tho pioneer days of the people, tho rich blossoming of science and art, and, above all, tho tremendous Influx of warm-blooded, sen sual peoples who camo in millions from Southern and Eastern Europe, and who altered the ten dencies of the cool-blooded Teutonic races In tho land. "They have changed the old American Sun day, and they have revolutionized tho inner life, they havo brought the operas to every largo city, and the kinematograph to every village, and havo at last played the music to a nation wide dance. Yet tho problom which face every one is not how this dancing crnzo arose, but rather whero it may lead; how fur it Is healthy and how far unsound; how far It Is healthy to yield to It or further it, and how far wo ought to resist To answer this question It Is not enough to wutch the outside spectacle, but wb must inquire Into the mental motives and men tal consequences. Exactly tuts Is our true problem. "Let -us first examine the psychological debit account No ono can doubt that truo dangers are near wherever the dancing habit Is prom inent The dance is a bodily movement which alms at no practical purpose and is thus not bound by outer necessities. It la simply self expression, and this gives to the dancing im pulse the liberty which easily becomes licen tiousness. Two mental conditions help In that direction; the mere movement as such produces ' increased excitement, and the excitement re enforces the movement, and so the dance has In itself the tendency to become, quicker and ' wilder and more and more unrestrained. When gay Vienna began its waltzing crate in the last century, It waltxed to the charming melodies of Lanner In a rhythm which did not demand more than about onarliundred and sixty move ments In a minute; but soon camo Johann ' Strauss, tho father, and the average waltzing rhythm was two hundred and thirty a minute, ,and finally the king of waltr, Johann Strauss, the younger, and Vienna danced at the rhythm of three hundred movements. "But another mcutal pffoct Is still more sig nificant' than thu Impulse (o Increase rapidity, The uniformity of the movements, and espec ially Of the revolving movement produces a state of half dizziness and halt numbness with ecstatic elements. Ye know the almost hyp notic state of the whirling Pervlshes and the raptures in the savage war dances; all this in milder 'form is Involved In over? passionate dance. But nothing Is more characteristic of sueh hnlf-hypnotlc states than that the indi vidual loses control of his will. Ho behaves like a drunken man who becomes tho slave of his excitement and of every suggestion from . without. NO doubt many seek tho dancing ex citement as a kind of substltuto for the al coholic exaltation. "That social injury must be feared if the social community indulges In such habits of . undisciplined, passionate expression heeds no explaining. Tho mind Is a unit; it cannot be without self-control in ono department and ' under the desirable self-discipline of the will In Rnother. A period in which the mad rush of dancing stirs social life must bo unfavorable to the development of thorough training and earnest endeavor. Tho fate of Imperial Romo ought to be the eternal warning to imperial Manhattan. Italy, like America, took its art and science from over tho sea, but gave to them abundant wealth. Instead of true art, it culti vated the virtuosi, and lu Rome, which paid three thousand dancers, tho danco was its glory until it began lnglorlously to sink, "Not without inner relation to tho inebriety, and yet distinctly different Is the erotic char acter of the dance. Lovemaking is the most central, underlying motive of all the mimic dances all ovor the globe. Among many primi tive peoples the danco Is a real pantomimic presentation of the whole story from tho first tender awaking of a sweet desire through the warmer and warmer courtship to the raptures of sensual delipht. Civilized society has more or less covered the naked passion, but from the graceful play of the minuet to the graceless movements of the turkey trot the sensual, not to say tho sexual, element can easily be reo ogntzed by the sociologist "Hero again cause and effect move in a circle. Love excitement expresses Itself in the dauce, and the dance heightens the love ex citement This erotic appeal to tho senses is ' the chief reason why the church has generally taken a hostile attitude. For a long while the dance was denounced as irreligious and sinful on account of Salome's blasphemous dancing. 'Certainly tho rigid guardians of morality al ways look sskanco on the contact of the sexes la tho ballroom." The professor shows a profound knowledge of tbo dance and throws much new light upon the tauses of the sensual dangers that are as sociated with It "The dance has still another psychological effect," he continues, "which must not be dis regarded, from a social point of view. It awakes to an unusual degree the Impulse to imitation. The seeing of rhythmic movements starts simi lar motor Impulses In the mind of the onlooker. It Is well known that from the eleventh to the sixteenth century Europe suffered from dancing epidemics. They started from pathological cases of St Vitus dance and released In the excitable crowds cramplike impulses to lmltatlve'jnove ments. But we hear tbo same story of in stinctive imitations on occasions of Iras tragic character.' It is reported that In the eighteenth century papal Rome was indignant over the passionate Spanish fandango. "It was decided solemnly to put this wild dance under the ban. The light- of the church "were assembled for the formal Judgment when it was proposed to call a pair of Spanish dancers in order that every one of tho priests might form his own idea of the unholy dauce. But history tells that the effect was nn unex pected one. After a short time of fandango demonstration the high clerics began involun tarily to imitate tho movements, uud the more passionately the Spaniards Indulged in their na tive whirl, the more the whole court was trans formed Into one great dancing party, Even the Italian tarantella probably began as a dls caso with nervous dancing movements, and then spread over the land through mere imitation which led to an ecstatic turning around and around. Whoever studies the adventures of American dancing during the last season' from New York to San Francisco must be impressed by this contagious character of our. dancing habits. But this means that the movement car ries in Itself the energy to spread farther and farther, and to fill the daily life with increased longlug for the ragtime. We are already ac . customed to the du'nce at the afternoon tea; how long will it take before we are threatened by the dance at tho breakfast coffee?" . The professor points out the Interesting fact that the overemphasis' on dancing has usually characterized a period of political reaction, of indifference to public life, of social stagnation and carelessness. When the volcanoes were tumbling the musses were always danolng: At all times when tyrants wanted to di vert v the attention of tbo crowd they gave the. dances, to their people. A nation which dances cannot think, but lives from hour to hour. The less political maturity the more happiness does a national community show in its dancing pleas ures. The Spaniards and tho Pollsn, the Hun garians and tho Bohemians have always been great dancers the gypsies dance." The professor declares himself by no means averse to all dancing, but his essay is plainly more devoted to the dangers of the present popular' form of it than to tho benefits to be derived from rational and modest indulgence, In his Interesting essay on "Sex Education" Professor Muensterberg makes a bitter attack on the policy of giving Instruction In certain physiological facta to adolescent boys and girls. He asserts that the mystery with which such subjects were formerly clothed was the beat protection of the modesty and innocence of the young, and that such Instruction as Is given, must arouse a desire to sin without suffering the penalty. The professor admits that the policy of Instruction has proceeded far and calls on society to reverse It He calls atten tion to some remarkable evidences of social demoralization he has witnessed. Again and again he declares that sex mat ters are being overemphasized In tbjs country. Perhaps the most novel passage in this essay Is that in which he suggests that as a result of the erotic state of tha public 'mind women of. bad character may exercise dominating Influ ence In American affairs, as they did at the old French court and in other historic, periods. He makes this startling suggestion In the follow ing words: "In this vicious circle of craving for sensual life and talking about sexual problems' U)o erotlo transformation of the whole social be havior Is usually a rapid one. The Rocoqq age reached many subtleties, which wc do not ' dream of as yet, buf to which the conspiracy against sllenco may boldly push us. Read the memoirs of Casanova, the Italian of the eighteenth century, whose biography gives a Ylvid picture of a time In which certainly no one was silent on sexual affairs, and in which llfo was essentially a chain of gallant adven tures. "In the select American circles it is already noticeable that the favorites of rich men get a certain social acknowledgment. The great masses have not reached this stage at present which is, of course, very familiar in France. But If we proceed In that rapid rhythm with which wo have changed in the last ton years, fen years hence we may have substituted tho Influenbo of mistresses for the Influence of Tammany grafters, and twenty years henco a Mhdamo Pompadour may be dwelling not far from the White House anfi controlling the fato of the nation with her small hands, as she did for two decades when Louis XV. was King. History has sufficiently shown that these are the logical consequences of the sonsuallzation of a rich people, whose mind is filled with Bexual problems. Are we to wait, too, until a great revolution or a great war shakes tho nation to lta depths and hammers new Ideas ' of raorallty into its conscience?" This Is the effect the policy of discussing .matters that were formerly hidden from tha "young is now producing, In the" opinion of Pro fessor Muensterberg: "It means to fill the atmosphere In which the growing ndolescent moves with sultry Ideas. It means to stir up the sexual desires 'and to teach children how to indulge in them without immediate punishment. Just as in a com munity of graft and corruption the individual soon loses the finer feeling for honesty and crime flourishes simply because every one knows .that nobody expects anything better, so In a community in which Bexual problems are the lescona of the youth and tha dinner talk of the adult the feeling of respect for man's deepest emotions fades away. Mian and woman lose the Instinctive shyness :ln touch ing on this sacred ground, and as tho organlo desires push and push toward It the youth soon discovers that the barriers to the forbidden ground are removed and that In thialr place stands a simple signal with a suggestive word of warning against some easily avoided traps." The wisest policy, In Professor Muenster berg's opinion, will be to strengthen the In stinctive emotion of mysterious respect, which makes the young mind shrink from brutal In trusion into the most sacred relationship! of life. Among many other -Interesting observations on socialism, Professor Muensterberg mukes this forecast: "The country has entered into a career of progressive experiments; the traditional re spect for the old conitltutlonal system of checks and balances to the mere will of tha crowd has been undermined. The real leKisla. tive reign of the masses has Just begun, and I . would seem only natural that such an entlrelv new movement should be pushed forward h? ?!2h. l2 o?7mredrIcbZ more fit than that of any other land to allow the SnfnSS ment of socialism This will Sot come day or to-morrow, but that nnMu. 10 J9oay b with us the day after mow "T. th llity with which the flenSaToTse'rVem W i MS