THE OMAHA STNDAY BEE: APRTT. 12, 1914.
X
m
Capital City of Peruvian Republic
fl mo to the rocky top of San - . - - - .isjr
- I Cristobal mountain and take ki&8tK JrZrr?r T.'l
Jximas chief 2txsine33 sive
(Copyright, 19H, by Frank O. Carpenter.)
IMA, Peru, April S.-CUmb with
mo to the rocky top of San
Cristobal mountain and take
a look over the city of Lima.
We aro on the cdse of the
ltlmnc valley, within elsht
miles of the Pacific ocean and about l.UOO
feet higher up In the air. Sitting on this
bleak desert hill, the sea seems a wide
streak of silver, beyond which are moun
tainous Islands bordering the coast.
Illeht in front of us, on the edge of the
water, is the port of Callao with Its mole,
reachlnf? out Into the ocean, and opposite
It are the islands of San Lorenzo which
are to bo joined to the mainland to form
one of the finest harbors on the eastern
Pacific. At our backs, lost in the clouds,
Ho the high peaks of the westcrmost
ranso of the Andes: and rlfiht under us,
so near that we could throw a stone on
to Its roofs. Is the great low city of Lima,
spread out on the plain. That winding
utream which runs through It Is the
Illmae. It springs forth from the glaciers
of the high Andes, and gives life to tho
Irrigated valleys below. It alone makes
Lima possible: and It waters tho orchards
and vineyards and great fields of grain
whlrh form the emerald setting for the
yellow city, between ua and the sea.
Now lot us take our glasses and look
moro closely at the Peruvian capital. It
was originally named the city of
kings. and It was laid out by
Pizarro only forty-three years afte
Columbus discovered America.' There was
a great city there JOO years before the
ground on which Chicago and Cincinnati
now stand hart been trodden by tho feet
of white men. Tho city Is one of the
oldest of thf hemisphere. It was born
long before New York or Boston. It was
the capltol of all South America when tho
United States was subject to Kngland.
and today it is tho quaintest and most
Interesting town tjpon the two continents.
Look at-lt as It. lies there below wsi The.
roofs aro all flat and tho houses are
mostly of ono and' two stories. There Is
a vast cxpanso, of low buildings, with a
great cathedral and magnificent churches
rlslng'here. and there., out of the whole.
The cathedral Is almost In tho center,
with Its great green plaza In front. That
church was laid out by Pizarro before
John Smith landed at Jamestown, and
Its original cost was more than JS00.00Q.
It has been thrown down again and again.
Viy earthquakes: and altogether It was
ninety years In Its building. It contains
tho bones of Pizarro, which we shall see
later on.
Aa wa look over Lima we can see. other
churches and convents whoso spires ex
tend high over the roofs. The city has
seventy churches iw all, and nearly every
one will pay visiting. The church and
convent of San Francisco Is said to have
cost $15,000,000; nnd tho altar of Santa
Rosa, the patron saint of Lima, had In It,
when at its best, 1,000 pounds of gold and
sliver and Jewels, which embraced 1,4'JO
dlarponds, 1,200 emeralds, 120 fine, pearls
and 000 rubles.
If you look closely you can see beyond
the cathedral the Plaza do Armas, whero
stands the building which Is now the
Peruvian senate. It was onoe tho seat
of tho inquisition, and on the spaco In
front of It hundreds were executed and
many were burned to death, the victims
of the autos de fe.
Now let, us 4.urn from the sacred to the'
secular parts of tho town. Thcro is one
Just below us. It Is tho great round Plaza
dclToros, the immense building where
fights are held every Sunday, and where
the Llmenos come by the thousands to
sea their favorite matadors butcher the
bulls. Some of them aro quite as blood
thirsty us the Itomans when they looked
at the gladiators In the amplthcater at
Home- Only last Sunday, for Instance,
thtf'.bulls were not considered as fierce
as they should be, and tho crowd hissed
thj fighters and drive them out of the
ring. They even began to tear up the
seats, and set tiro to the building, and
the jioldlors had to rush In and put down
1119 nioii.
Tho building is on this side of the
Klraur. The main part of the city Is over
the' liver, nnd thcro wo can see the pal.
hc'q of tho exposition, which contains the
niutt'.n. tie government palace near the
cathedral, thr great university, the oldest-the
now world, and the vast num.
ryrrrJ1,. "... 1 rz
DB t j F Bailey,
Sanatorium
This Institution Is the only ono
In the central west with separate
buildings situated in their own
ample grounds, yet entirely dis
tinct, and rendering it possible to
classify cases. The one building
being fitted for and devoted to the
treatment of non-contagious and
non-mental diseases, no others be
ing admitted; the other Rest Cot
tage being designed for and de
voted to the exclusive treatment
of select mental cases requiring
for a time watchful care and spe
cial nursing.
-jsSts
permitted to push thtr tell Eton Into the
Interior, but tho new laws provide for
full religious freedom throughout the
country.
This movement Is at Its beginning In
Peru, but It has been going on through
cut South America, for several years past.
Kcuador, which was once' very Intolerant,
has established complete religious free
dom. Paraguay has done the same, and
Vrugay Is about to adopt a new consti
tution In which a section shall be In
serted providing that there shnll be 110
union of the church and state. Similar
demonstrations are going on In Chile,
and there a general demand is expressed
tl at from now on religious nnd secular
Institutions shall stand alone.
Hut before I leave the churches I want
to take you Into the cathedral of Pizarro.
It faces the Plaza Major, with Its palm
trees and Its beautiful fountains, It Is
In the heart of the city nnd Its towers
van he seen almost anywhere over tho
Ulma valley. The building Is said to
be the finest church edifice on the South
Amcitcau continent with the single ex
ception of the cathedral at Mexico City.
The Interior Is very lmprerslvo nnd It
mnkes one respect the uatnoiu? religion
when he remembers that Catholics have.
worshiped for more than 300 years on that
spot. Tho high altar Is a fine example
of massive sliver construction and the.
italls of tho sanctuary are extraordinary
specimens of Indian carving, when Indian
carving was still In Its prime.
On the walls are fine paintings by
Murlllo and other great masteis and the
chapels are of exceeding beauty, I was
especially Impressed by that ot Pizarro.
The little verger of the cathedral took
mo Into It, and under the altar he showed
me tho coffin In which Pizarro a bones
lie. The coffin Is of white marblo with
glass sides and top, so made that one
could aeo plainly the remains lying within.
The verger lighted a candle and waved It
up and down over the glass. As he did
so I could see all that Is now left of
the great Spaniard who first explored and
conquered tho west coast of South Amer
ica. It consisted of a skeleton lying upon
a red velvet cushion embioldered with
gold. Tho skeleton Is black as mahogany
and It looks as though It were varnished.
Tho skull lies on a pillow, the neck being
fastened to It by wires through the ears.
The Jaw Is a trltlo drooping, the nose Is
prominent and the great eyeless sockets
looked up ut me hh I gazed down through
the glass top of the casket, Aa I looked
more closely the whole seemed merely n.
shell. The skin has begun to peel from
the shins nnd there are little wormholes
In the bones. I am told that In times past
patches of skin have been cut off and
given to relic hunters, but as far as I
can see the most of the corpse Is Intact,
though decidedly leathery and tho worse
for wear. From tho outside of the coffin
I have copied these words:
Captain General Don Francisco Pizar
ro, Funuauor de Lima en IS dc Unero do
J53S. Muerto en 2s de Junlo de 1541." Ah
I left gave the verger a dollar, and Carl
snapped a photograph of him as ho
shewed me .the door.
Lima Is a city, built In a desert, Its
Irrigated traits nie s ntWed thru igh
fifteen small allrjs, and they consist
altogether of about 70,(00 acres of cultl
NMed field and woodlands They are
divided Into V6 estates, many ot the.
holdings being large. Practically tin'
wholo support of the city comes from tills
valley, and from the trado with Peru.
Tho conditions about Lima aro surh
that It never tains. There Is not a water
proof nor a pair ot overshoes In tho whole
town, and umbrellas are used only In
keep out the sun. Tho streets havo no
gutters, nnd the roofs have no chimneys.
All of the cooking Is done over charcoal,
the fumes ot which get out as they can.
Tho town has practically no backwnys
and only on the outskirts; nro there gar
dens. The most of the buildings run
around courts or patios upon which tho
chief rooms face. The larger houses are
fine- and they cover n groat deal of
ground, a single one often having twenty
or more rooms, surrounding several large
k'ourts, In Mime of which play fountain
amui tropical irers.
Many of the older buildings are beauti
ful and exceedingly comfortable. iome
of them aro largely constructed of sun
dried brick, or ot plaster spread over n
framework ot wood, lathed with bamboo
canes. The roofs are of this nature. Tho
outer walls of such buildings are cov
ered with stucco and the city has a very
substantial appearance, whereas much of
It, as I said In a. former letter. Is a com
bination ot mud and fishing poles.
Of late they are putting up many fine
structure of reinforced concrete: and
along the Avenue of the Imposition, for
Instance, are residences that would bo
considered fine anywhere In tho world.
Lima lias altogether now about 150,000
Inhabitants. It is steadily growing, and
when the canal Is completed Its popula
tion and business will greatly Increase.
It will be one of the chief tourist resorts
ot South' America, and It It can only
havo somo better hotels It will be tlio
most delightful resort along the west
coast,
As it Is now the hotel accommodations
are limited. There are two or threo large
establishments which havo rooms and
board. You may toko your accommoda
tions on the American or Kuropean plan,
and the. rates are Just about as high as
thoso ot the states. You will havo chain-
bermen Instead of1 chambermaids, and
your meals will consist of desayuno, al
muerzo and dinners, Desayuno means
tho cup ot black coffee and two little
rolls which you eat for your breakfast.
This tho boy will bring to you In your
chamber, and you ,may have It In bed
if you choose. Almlicrzo comes at 12
o'clock, when there Is a fairly good tablo
d'hote meal, and at 6 or 7 there Is a
table d'hoto dinner. At both of these
latter meals tho dishes aro Spanish, nnd
they are recorded on a menu which most
tourists need a dictionary to read. I n.m
stopping at tho Maury, which vies with
the Grand as the best hotel In Peru, It
Is a great two-story structure with wide
balconies extending over the street. I
havo a room facing tho street, for which
they nsk SI Ruld per day without hoard
Pa k if this is a little, dark sitting
room. There aro no private bathrooms
to speak of, and altogether the hotel
might be Improved In a number of ways.
FllANK Q. CAUPKNTKIt.
PRATTLE UP THE KIDDIES.
Teacher Did you ask your mamma why
tho pen was mightier than the sword?
Small IMolse-Yrs. ma'am. She snld It
was because papa, couldn't sign checks
with n sword.
oMther Hobble, what's this I hear about
our not rising to offer your sent to a
lady In tho street car?
Hobble AW, what was tho use, ina;
she couldn't sit down where three of
mo got up. ,
Anxious Mother Jack, you must re
member to use Jour right hand more. I
don't want you to become loft-handed.
Little nek Don't worry, mnmmn. Homo
ot the best pitchers In the league are
southpaws.
Mother Mnrjorle, stop Interrupting.
Havo you forgotten what I told you about
bring seen and not heard?
Marjorle You must fink 1's a moving
picture 'stead ot n little girl.
Marjorle, aged B, had been given some
chocolates of various sizes. Picking up a
little one, she said: "This Is a baby choco
late, and ot a largo one. "This la a
mamma chocolate." She then swallowed
tho little one, and lifting tho larger choc
olato to her mouth to oat that also, sho
said: "Don't cry, baby, your mamma is
n-comln',"
A teacher trying to Impress on her dill
uien the rlghtness of kind npM tntinr1 all
animals took them for n walk to bring
iwron noino To tliem.
Hearing a scream from little Johnnv.
she asked : "What's the matter, Johnny?"
I yo been sitting on a hornot," was the
, V: ,Mr' m afraid
hftrt tho poor thing."
I've
ECZE1 IN SCALY
DRY
PATCHES
On Little Boy's Face and Neck.
Painful and Disfiguring, Would
Crack Open, Bleed and Itch. Cu
ticura Soap and Ointment Cured.
Karl, Neb. " Kczeraa broke out on tar
little boy's face and neck and nM very pain
ful at times and disfiguring. It was worse
In winter. It its In scaly
dry- patches on his faco
and nock which would
crack open and bleed.
H Itched and was very
unsightly. H hurt tho
worst In tho day time
when In tho open air and
wind.
"I used several rem
edies but lie got no relief until a friend told
mo of hrr llttlo boy who was afflicted as
mine and Cutlcura Soap and Ointment
cured htm. 1 purchased n box of Cutlcura
Soap and Ointment from our druggist. I
washed hh faco well with tho Cutlcura Soap
then put tho Cutlcura Ointment on right
off. In two months bo was entirely cured."
(Slimed) Mrs. Daisy Daltey, Oct. 3.1. 1013,
In selecting a toilet soap why not procura
ono possessing deltcato emollient properties
sufflclrnt to atlny minor Irritations, remove
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such a soap combined with tho purest of
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bop. Cutlcura Soap 25c. and Cutlcura
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dealers everywhere. Liberal sample of each
mailed free, with 32-p. Skin Hook. Address
post-card "Cutlcura, Dept. T, Boston."
tarMen who shave and shampoo with Cu
tlcura Soap will flndltbestforsUn and scalp.
It's Easy to Peel Off
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Huff.?.??8." tl18 'rookies and '
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on enough to completely cover your
face; remove In the morning with warm
wiitor, rtepead dally until every freckle
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Kougn, iiiotcny, pimpled skin, nlso
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gotten rid of by this name method.
Without discomfort or Inrnnvfinlnnrn.
Tho effort Is decidedly worth while, tho
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If bothered with wrinkles, bathe the
faco In n lotion made by dissolving nn
ounce of powdered Raxollte In a half
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Write tor Free Catalog ot Musical
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151S Douglas 01 Omiss, Nab.
Constipation n""
Dr. Chase's Liver Tablets
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llr. Chase Co., 154 N. 10th BL. Philadelphia, fa.
ThQjxiQvrJppsi f)ffica (
bers of low yellow houses which arc the
stores and the homes.
But let us go down from tlte mountains,
and make our ways over the Ttlmac and
wander about through the streets. Thcro
Is no city In Europe that compares with
T,lma In qualntness, and but few In his
toric interest Tho streets nro narrow
and they cross each other at right an
gles. There are many great plazas or
squares, which havo fountains' and gar
dens; and, extending from these, run
narrow thoroughfares walled with low
buildings. Tho buildings are all close to
the street, and In the residence section
the ground floor windows are covered
with great Iron bars. "Where the houses
consist of "two or threo stories, there
are balconies that extend out above the
street, and some of these are so won
derfully carved that they make you think
of tho harem quarters In Cairo, or those
of old Spain. In the busiest parts of tho
city, most of tho people llvo over tho
stores, and, stretching from one end of
tho street to tho other aro long lines of
theso balconies, each house having Its
own peculiar architecture. Tho main
business streets are not more, than thirty
feet wide. They are so narrow that tho
single street car is close to the sidewalk,
and ono must be careful lest he loso a
leg as he walks through the streets.
The stores ftre far different from ours.
Only the newest of them have plate glass
windows, and there aro no fancy fronts
with gorgeous window displays, which
may be looked at Sundays and evenings.
Tho most of the stores have no windows
at all. They are shut off from the street
by great doors that are taken away dur
ing business hours. The shops are sepa
rated by thin walls, and going along them
is like walking through a museum or an
oriental bazar. The sidewalks are nar
row, and tho goods ,are displayed close to
the streets. Many of tho dry good stores
hang fancy patterns of cloth from tho
celling, .and the larger establishments
will have piles of goods put on the floors
and stacked up near the street. Notions
Of all kinds are hung from strings
stretched across from wall to wall high
up, and all sorts of queer ways of dis
play are contrived. The light of the
stores comes In through the doors or
from the roofs. Many of the business es
tablishments aro large, with stocks of
fine goods. Tho prices aro high. The best
from all over the world Is brought h9ro
for sale, and the city, while not a rich
one, has thousands of well-to-do people.
Tho chief shopping hours aro from 1 to
6 o'clock In the afternoon. At that
time the streets are crowded with women
and men, and the crowd Is as thick as
that between the Treasury and the patent
office on F street In Washington at about
the same time. Moreover, It looks much
the same. No qjie I n a hurry. The
people saunter along or stop and chat
with their friends. Nearly every one Is
well dressed, and nearly every man, old
and young carries a cane. The Llmenos
aro very polite. The men bow and lift
their hats when they meet, and they tip
their hats and bow again as they pass.
Thero aro many well dressed women,
wearing the fashionable outlandish styles
of today, and there aro also many who
are clad in the dead black that the lady
of Lima ot the past always wore when
sho went out to walk. Such women do
not wear bonnets, but they wrap fine
shawls of black goods about the head,
Pinning Ihcm back so that tho faco alone
shows. This background adds to their
beauty, and tho costumo Is far better
than tho monstrosities our women now
wear. It saves the buying of new hats
and bonnets, and It Is easy to put on or
tako off.
Andthls brings me to the crowd which
one sees Here on riunday. Lima is a
godly city, although we have a Methodist
bishop In my hotel who says It Is tho
most bigoted on earth. It Is altogether
Catholic, and that not of tho modern
Cnthollclsm of America nnd Europe, but
somewhat the samo as It was In the days
of rizarro. There aro priests and nuns
everywhere and great monasteries and
convents galore. The most of tho people
are rigid church goers and Sunday morn
ing the streets ore filled with families
on their way to masses, which aro cele
brated at the cathedral and churches
Every one Is dressed for tho occasion
and almost all the women are clad In
black. None of them wears hat or bon
net and none goes to church merely for
tho snke of showing their clothes. Tho
usual headdress Is the cloth shawl cover
Ing the hair and neck so that tho face
only shows out. Some wear mantillas
or shawls of lace over tho head and not a
few are now beginning to wear dresses
other than black. I am told that wpmen
would not bo permitted to enter a church
in a bonnet and that those who do so aro
tapped with a long stick by the sexton
and told to tako their hats off. In tho
churches tho men sit by themselves on
ono side and the women havo their seats
on the other, making you think of a col
lection of nuns who aro dead to tho
world.
I am told It Is different when church
Is over. The people then put on their gay
ciotnes. some go to tho bull fights and
others have evening parties and dances
I would say that tho costumes at church
aro far moro seemly than thoso of our
country, where one looks over a tropical
garden of flowers and birds. of-paradlsa
feathers In a vain attempt to reach the
eye of tho preacher.
The Sunday sights' of tho streets ore
also more seemly. Thero is no business
done In Lima on the Sabbath. The stores
nro closed and you walk between blank
walls or great doors fastened with pad
looks. Every atoro has Us, windows of
boards, and thero is not a sign of goods
of any kind to bo seen. Sometimes thero
Is a grating at the top of tho door for
ventilation and sometimes a round hole
has been made at the height of one's faco
So that thoso within might look out; but
there Is no business carried on anywhere.
This Is also the case In tho evenings on
week days, The ordinary business hours
ara from 9 to 6; and at night there Is no
walking along and looking Into the
fctore windows. Indeed, after dark the
streets are almost deserted, except near
tho moving picture shows, which have
recently captured Lima by storm.
And Just here I would tay that thero
Is a great liberal movement going on in
this country. The people aro demanding
liberty of religious thought and worshlri
New laws have been passed by tho na
tional congress, and It Is now possible
for any person to establish any kind of a
church where fie pleases. Until now the
Protestant missionaries havo not been
SEE THAT LOWER
n muss 1 mmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmm
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Riw 2l
VZWP
rM----V- i
M WBUi I
Hi
Ei
IS.
