Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, February 01, 1914, PART TWO, Image 18
The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Pag MOVING-PI C TU RESxs aid toFASHI ON S By LA RACONTEUSE PariB, Jan. 20. AND whero does tho 'smartly dressed little Parls lonno go to sco tho latest fashions nowadays? In times gone by It was tho Bols do Boulogne on Sunday afternoons, tho races at Longchamps and In . tho studios of tho great fashion creators. But all this has been changed. Now when sho wishes to learn tho latest llttlo twist In fashion sho betakes herself to a picture palace and Bees It In tho moving pictures. Not only do tho motion plcturo companies requlro their actresses to bo garbed In tho latest mode, but many of them ariTproducIng special films devoted to nothing but fashions. Sandwiched In between tho smllos and tears of tho plcturo plays sho now sees tho latest gowns almoBt as soon as they aro turned out front tho workshops of tho designers. Tho popularity of tho fashion display in films has not only added to tho -rovenuo of tho plcturo palaco proprietors, but has sorved to advertise tho creators of fashion, for In all tho special fashion films tho namo of tho designer of tho garments Is always prominently displayed. Just what arrangement has been mado be tween tho largo fashion establishments and tho film companies I do not know, but both should find tho showing of lashlonablo garments on tho fllmB a profita ble arrangomont. Tho plcturo houses where such films aro on tho regular programmo havo become tremend ously popular, and any aftornoon ono may see a stoady stream of well drcssod women entering them. Tho daumont Palace, tho largest motion plcturo playhouso In tho world, threatens to bocomo as much tho centro bf fashion as Is tho Bols dp Boulogne and tho race courso at Longchamps. I am also told that tho Idea has boon extended to London and America. In tho lattor country ono company Is devoting a sorlos of films Illustrating tho adventures of a country girl In Now York, during which aro shown tho Interior of several of the FlfUi avenue fashion houses, with living models d snlaylng tho gowns, while tho girl horsolf Is shown n So stunning gowns after she has arrived In tho city to llvo with a wealthy relative. . - THE VAN DYCK COLLAR IN TULLE. Tho Van Dyck collar in black or white tulle la an other innovation of tho moment It gives a bocomlng finish to tho bodices wo select for small dinners and ovonlrig concerts. Thoso collars, as far as their shapo ?s concerned. scrupulously copied fro mthoso worn bv our ancestors in tho days of Charles I. A favorite Sodol In white tullo has a shawl effect completed round tho shoulders with a square piece. Each por Hon is mado with a plain width joined to a kilting bo neatl a Piping of whites atln. Tho satin piping can bo ni n nrt i! v n tiny garland of multi-colored rococo roses H srjffSffff as? ana satin Is chiefly seen over white charmcuso with-sleeves In shell pink mousselino do sole. THE HATPIN 8CARE. Long hatpins havo mado so many victims In tho courso of tho last few weeks at theatrical matinees, in tho metropolitan railway and tramcars, that the Prefect of Police has Issued strict orders forbidding women to Wear these dangerous weapons otherwise than "with "protectors," known over hero as protego-polntes. Tho Paris authorities havo been considerably helped In this campaign by tho motion plcturo shows, which not only reproduced tho beforo-mcntloned regulations in largo type, but also an amusing sceno between husband and wife, wherein tho murderous hatpin plays tho prin cipal role. While laughing at these comical sketches tho audlcnco cannot help being Impressed with the serious sldo of tho question, and thero Is reason to hopo that in courso of time overy Parlslenne and for eign visitor In Gay Capital will add the indispensable point protector to her hatpin. At a recent literary conference a woman was refused admittance until she had deposited her four long pins (unprotected) In the cloakroom. EVENING FROCKS. Slnco tho smartost evening gowns aro now sleeve less tho morest suggestion of a sleevo looks rather prudish, and oven gloves aro becoming an unknown article. This Is sad news to tho woman who has not beautiful arms, but It has Increased tho sale of various brands of "flesh foods" and "tissue builders." Tho low cut gown has at last reached tho limit of lowncss; It can bo cut no lower. Tho fashionable eve ning garment is now open to tho girdle in the back, as illustrated by tho quaint model at tho loft of tho page. This charming gown Is of apricot taffeta chiffon, with the bodice of yellow and gold brocade, veiled by not and trimmed with an embroidery of silk and beads. The embroidery motif is carried out in the belt, from which falls two gathered flounces. Tho upper flounce Is veiled with the net, and another llounco of net falls from tho second flounce to veil the skirt. Tho veiling of the skirt is fashioned on tho cutaway lines. Tho skirt Is simple, the touch of smartness being obtained by drawing It up in tho centro of tho front An original note is given tho costumo by a do Medici collar of net, gathered over a band of sable. At tho right of the page Is shown an evening dress of "ainbre" supple velvet, embroidered in hugo dark "pompro" roses and silvor lace. Tho bodlco Is draped with a high bolt, which ends in two embroidered bands, one passing over tho shoulder and tho second falling lower ovor tho arm. Tho gathered yoke of white net Is edged with a niching, and Is cut slightly V-shaped. Tho, skirt, fully gathered, Is drawn up at tho front, and Is lifted at tho back by a double fold of tho velvet, making a panel. It is opened ovor an underskirt of silver laco, which pnds in a square train. Why a Change of Climate Often Accomplishes More Than Medicine By Dr. WILLIAM GORDON, Of tha Royal Devon and Exeter Hospital. MODERN authorities havo commonly dealt with cllmato simply In terms ot nvcrngo local weather. But in Its medical aspects, nt all events, climatology cov ers moro than can bo so oxprcssed. When wo talk of a cllmato being good or bad in a medical sense, It is not only weather which wo havo in mind. Doubtless something may bo said for tho view that the effects, ot climnto aro ultimately results of meteorological conditions, at least whero tho inhabitants do not go bnrcfoqt on tho soil, and If we exclude hydrology. But many ot thoso mete orological conditions cannot at present bo deter. Bilnsd; of tho existence ot soma of them wo aro prbabfy unaware; so that we arp obliged for practical purposes, to includo in Our definition, as in our- investigation's, topographical factors whOKi sactcorologlcal congruences sj.111 remain to to unravelled. In hwiUlng this compromise it Is curious to observe, that wo aro but follow ing ttw lead ot the "Father of Medicine," who summed up hU subjects as "airs, waters, and place" I would thereforo deflno "climnto" and "cli matology" in their medical aspects tbus:"Tho cllBMte ot a plucc, in n medical sense. Is tho sum ot tho influences upon human health and sickness of Its geographical, and especially ot it meteorological conditions!" and "Medical climatology is the science ot cllmato medically considered and ot their variations iu spuco and time." So defined, it is clear that climatology constitutes a great part ot tho environment of medicine, and that to neglect It is to Ignoro much of tho natural history of disease. At tho outset ono must distinguish tho factors which -enter Into climatology, so far as they have hitherto revealed themselves. Sixteen may perhaps bo enumerated, half ot them meteorological, halt topographical. Thcso are set forth in this way: Cllmatologlcal Factors. and there Is a disinclination to exertion. Tho abdominal orgnns oro nypercnuc, u' moro and the kidneys less than in temperate regions, and danger attends condttious which Involvo considerable heat production, such ns fevers, physical exertion, and excess in eating. In cold climates, on tho other hand, moro food is rcqulslto to obtalu a healthy activity, but ac tive exercise Is commonly taken, and tho skin acts less, tho kldnbys more. Atmospheric humidity claims special atten tion from Its Important relations to tempera ture. The humidity reduces tho tropical heat but Increases Its oppressiveness, and people in hot damp climates become lethargic and re laxed., Tho effect ot cold are also greatly modified by humidity; whereas In dry cold tho Meteorological. Temperature. Wind. Rainfall. Suullgbt Electricity. Atinoepherlc Atmospheric Atmospheric pressure, humidity, purity. Toi-ociuruicAL. Latitude. Geographical pas 1 tlon by which is meant relation to lund and sea, hikes, mountains, etc Altitude Soil. Vegetation. Water supply. Wind shelter and ex posure. Aspect. But for satisfactory knowledge of their nctlnn wo requlro not only to be acquainted with their relations to human disease, but also to know their influence on human beings In health, as well an on tho parasites which produce human disease, and on such non-human hosts as bar bor them. Considering first their influences upon healthy human beings, tho most powerful of nil clima tic factors seems to bo temperature. Rauke has made the pregnant observation that there seems to be nu optimum temperature for human beings, which, he nays, necessitates the least Btnount of metabolism compatible with healthy, nclivo lite. He has placed this optimum be tween 59 degress and C8 degrees P., within, In '.act, about the limits ot temperature which ex Wrieuce has shown us to be best for t pneu monia patient Iu hot climates, where leant metebolbni U required. less food Is consumed Jft ,0.lheJ Aliments Are Found to Derive No Benefit in Alpine Sanitariums, but Do Yield to the Warm Air and Tropical Sun ot Old gypt. removal ot heat from tho body Is determined by tho bodily needs; In damp cold thero Is a leakage ot warmth which 13 difficult to Wholly prevent. Clothes dq not exactly control It, and wind, It It exists, considerably increases It Hu midity also acts Importantly in lessening tbe lutenslty ot light. Atmospheric pressure has received n great deal ot attention, chletly becnuso so many ot those who have Interested themselves in the ef fects ot altitude have assumed tha$ Us Influence is chiefly duo to this factor. If, however, we set aside special effects, such us mountain sickness (tho outcome of n diminished iutako ot oxygen) and an enlargement ot tho thorax ot n compen satory sort, the most Interesting Indisputable result of diminished atmospheric pressure seems to be compensatory increase of the color ing matter ot both plauta and animals In plants of tbe chlorophyll, in nulmals ot tbe haemoglobin aud red corpuscles. Winds have received strangely little attention. In dump cold the leakage of beat from tbe body becomes much greater In wind. Then certain winds are rcmnrkably enervating, like the , Kohn. East wind lit Europe Is detrimental to many persons, although wo havo no witlxfactory knowledge ot why this Is so. East winds in these countries seem to have less ozono In them than southwestern, but what effect thU differ ence produces wo do not know Light Increases color and well-being, yet its preclso action on human beings has received, I think, very llttlo uttentlon. 0 electricity In Its natural conditions we know practically noth ing as a climatic factor. Yet recent experi ments. In which It has been artificially used to stimulate plant and animal growth, suggest that electrical conditions may have powerful effects lu climnto. Of tho Influences on healthy men of rainfall, toll, vegetation, wind shelter, and wind exposure, we know practically nothing. Thus, so far as what may be called "physio logical climatology" is concerned, wo know enough to Indicate tho Importance ot knowing moro; yet we aro still only on the threshold ot tho subject Wo havo learned for certain that the effect ot climnto on some of the parasites ot man and on their non-human hosts Is profound. The study of tropical diseases hns made this plain. Cer tain disorders nre confined to certain zones of temperature. Thus, whatever mny be found to bo in the organism of yellow fever, wo know that It does not flourish in temperate climates. The mosquito that carries It and tho mosquito host ot malaria become rare also at certain alti tudes whero the heat is less. Other disease are modified. Thus, phthisis In the tropics, whilst usually uncommon outside Copyright, 1014, by the Star Company. Great Britain Rights While Some Diseases Yield Successfully to the Cold, Crisp Mountain Altitudes of the Swiss Alps ' .. tho towns, runs a moro rapid courso than in cooler latitudes. The gravity of type Is prob- ably due In part to tho temperature, the rarity Is perhaps a consequence of the Intensity of light. Wo know there are optimum tempera tures for organisms, as Ranko says there arc for man. Light, again, has a profund destruc tive Influence upon mlcro-orgaulsms, especially direct sunlight. Apparently It Is the bltie, vlo. let and ultra-volet rays to which it owes this most Important power. The comparative rarity of phthisis In tho tropics Just referred to, and in some high altlttfdes ns well, may owe not a little to the disinfectant power o light- Rain is popularly supposed to wnsh the, at mosphere, aud, whilst It Is raining, It doubtless does so. But It Is sometimes forgotten that heavy rain after draught causes unusually nc tlvo development of organisms In the soil, and that these, when tho air dries again, enter It as dust Long-lasting drought decreases ttio num ber and tho vitality of organisms In thu "soil. Of the action of wind, air pressure, natural elec tricity, and oll on pathogeulc m'.crobw we are, 1 believe, without information Hero, again, we havo much to learn nnd comparatively llttlo has us yet been established. Denllug next with tho Influence of tho factors ot climnto on human disease, we enter on a field where remarkable progress has been made. Medical geography has become an imposing branch ot knowledge. A great emplrls acquaint ance with the effect of places on dlseu&'e Is steadily growing up. Of this I need say no moro. Similarly, medical history Is becoming constantly more considerable and concise. But when wo come to the theoretical sldo of medi cal climatology we find ournelves considerably worse off. It Is not too much to say that the most striking characteristic ot our knowledge In this department Is Its uncertainty. . Tho frequeucy und severity of pneumonia nt high altitudes have been ns much Insisted on ns tho rarity of phthisis. It Fooms, lu Jacj. to be well established that In many niuuutnllou regions pneumonia becomes coiamoncr.nud more deadly us altitude tucreases. Whether this de pends on Increased exposure to certain wluds is n question awaiting Investigation. Some very Reterved small figures, which I am going to submit to you, suggest that this may be the case. The idea that exposure to cold dry winds Is an lm. portant cause of tho disease Is not new, and In teresting Instances or coincident prevalence of such winds and pneumonia havo been given. Bronchitis Is often considered to be affected by thu same influences as pneumonia. But this apparently Is not altogether correct The dis tribution of bronchitis, In the United States In 1880, was by no means tho same as that of pneumonia; nlso Sturges stated that at Gibraltar different winds appeared responsible for two diseases tho east, which Is damp, seemed to promote tho occurrence of bronchitis; tho west, which thero is dry, the occurrence of pneumonia. It would appear that whereas dry cold tends to cause pneumonia, damp cold rather tends to causo bronchitis. On the other hand, a warm moist atmosphere has undoubted therapeutic value in the drier varieties ot bron chitis. Heart disease has a climatology well" worth looking Into. Havllnnd held that It was most prevalent In places not well flushed by wind. BUt very little has been done on the subject Only a few years ago authoritative statements were made in reference to a district well known to mo which were In direct reverse of the facts. For asthma we havo a good deal of empiric knowledge, the chief fact being Its capricious ness. Oout ' and rheumatism, dyspepsia, anaemia, neurasthenia, neuralgia, and con valcscence from acuta diseases have, apart from balneology, each a certain useful cllma: tology of its own, but discordant statements are made In respect of them. .The Importance of considerations such as tho foregoing may be mado still moro obvious by also regarding them from tho points of view ot diagnosis, prognosis, prevention, and treatment J, tore sevntn no doubt that a very marked dlfferenco exists, in expectation of life gener ally, between tho great towns and the country dlstrlcts. If so, surely this must affect the prognosis of almost all cronlc diseases, nnd as most of our efforts at prognosis, Inadequate as they sometimes hnvo been, emanate from our crowded centres, there surely Is need for exten-' slvo Inquiry into tho prognosis of these com plaints In our rural areas, where I am sure the outlook is different Moreover, If density of population has this effect, Is It not possible that by comparing rural populations with each other we may conio to discover climatic factors also which tend to modify longevity? This seems to mo nn in vestigation which promises to repay the trouble It would entail. If It bo true 'that a certain disease Is specially rare lu a certain place, aud It good reason can be shown that this rnrlty is not merely fortuit ous, mny we not hold that a patient prone to that disease will, by residing lu that place, have a HPerlnlly cood hope of avoiding the disease? Such r, consideration applies to tuberculosis, arid line cnici iv.imui why 1 have dovoted so much tlrao in endeavoring to establish the of -shelter from rain-bearing wind in losses-?; the frequency ot pulmonary tuberculosa Is be cause I sec. In places so sheltered, the most suitable plnco of residence for those In whom tubercle has become quiescent, or for those who belong to families whose proclivity to tubercu losis Is pronounced. I feel sure that there are districts iu England which cases of phthisis wnild be wise to avoid and where sanatoria ought not to bo erected. Similarly, I think that there nre districts whPre old neojjle with strong concerous family hbtory should not settle, and districts where tiar'e wh" htiviv had repeated attacks of pueu raonja run somo,rlsk In residing. One cannot be daginhtlc yet' on these two latter points, but would It not be well It one could?