The Omaha
The "Blue Bird" Costume, Dc.
veloped in Blue Velours de
Laine. The Straight Front
Waistcoat and Cutaway
Jacket Are Most Chic.
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the
famous "Lucile" of London,
and foremost creator of fa
thions in the world, writes each week
the fashion article for this newspaper,
presenting all that h newest and best
in styles for well-dressed women,
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Pari
establishment Wings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion, j
I J., 'rv.rf o ' j-t. A J
establishment k at Nos. 37 and 39,
wc rmy-sevenin re.' new oi
By Lady Duff-Gordon
("Lucile")
JUST bow far mad fast the fur fad
will laat Is an open .question.
I am Inclined to think that fur
will disappear with great suddon
noM as soon as the Rlvlora season
opes. This fad started last August
and It "took" so violently that, of a
verity, it must ho shortened.
Tfao minute a fad becomes popu-
la - V
larueo, us acaia Knew sounas. our
, la not only used in gowns and hats,
cut in lingerie ana nignt gowns i
But fef this, I will tell you later in
my lettor.
Beariag la mind tho thought that
fur Will go with the Winter winds. I
am Mad In g you some first Spring
designs, and as you will see, there
Is less evidence ot fur than la the
Winter costumes. But tho muff re
malas, ot course.
The Blue Bird costumo is a favor
it f mine. It is created la a dark
nlwi velours de lalne. The skirt la
one of the fow plain models on
which. Fashion deigns to smile. It
Is tfce coat which brings happiness.
1 it sot delightful? And withal, so
simple. It buttous snugly to the
collar, across the chest The cross
piece fastens with two buttons over
a waistcoat ot bright sulphur
woolen oloth. Tho whole offoct is
severe but moat smart.
father a contrast Is the "Dinard"
afteraooa wrap, ot mustard colored
cloth and brown skunk fur, which
is an excellent model for early
gpriag. The muff, ot the fur, may
be a bit oppressive in appoartneo,
but it is necossary to complete the
la the next picture there Is a muff
which 1b moro Buggestlva of Spring.
It la made ot brown and green plaid
silk, edged with dyed fox. Tho cos
tumo with which it Is worn is a
simple llttlo affair, designed tor a
very pretty debutante. The fabric
la the serviceable charmeusa and
the shade is apple green. Tho
bodice, so girlish in its design, has
a aovel neck decoration and a new
button arrangement These buttons
extend down tho Mrt eoveral
laches. The fold on the left elde Is
aa oSaet to tho fur edged slit.
The bell shaped hat, edged with
fur. is suggestlvoly demuro and
nlrllsh.
Moro pretentious In fabric, it not
la design. Is tho purple plush cos
tume with Its whito turn back col
lar, and stunning waistcoat of white
velvet Tho whole costume Is lined
with violet satin. The bom Is turned
up at the back and sides so as to
show this lining.
Of course, my lady wears a pur
ple bat with an osprey fantasle and.
of coarse, sho carries an crwlno
muff.
Moro than a hint of the Spring
issfclon Is given in the bluo-gray
taffeta costume which I havo named
"Woods In Spring." The short,
retailed coat is excellent; the skirt,
draped in tho back and gathered at
tk feet is equally excellent The
lMt er girdle outlining the waist
! feeoraua -with a queer gold and
fiver o?ament
Taffetas are to be very chic, in
fact taffeta season is Immediately
thmi ot us.
Ant now to tell you of the near
aeaksaff lingerie! Never again, will
mi -wear the serviceable muslins
Mshfica ot the aasti And
NPdr-Sorina (to-
Dinard Wrap of Mustard Colored Cloth, Trimmed with
Brown Skunk . Fur. The Open Neck Effect Is Becom
ing and Will Remain Chic for Many Months.
naturally enough, the very shapes ot
our undergarments nro changing to
conform with tho shapes ot our outer
clothes.
The very newest nightdress Is
slit up the left side from tho hem
almost to tho kneo, tho open
ing being edged or softened by a little
frilling of tho Inco which figures
again on the very low-cut neck anil
tho abort sleeves.
But really tho said Bllt is not ns
noticeable ns you might Imngtno, for
tho reason that tho nightdress itself
Is made of tho faintest flcsh-plnk
nlnon and is of such a flimsy trans
parency that it is hardly visible to
the saked cyel
However, the fact remains that tho
fashion for tho silt skirt has now
and la-tbe fullest and most literal
sense of the word reached its Unilfrl
Then there is another new stylo
and sensation in tho way of tho robo
de null really tho merely ordinary
term ot "nightdress" Is hardly np
pllcablo to tuch an exquisite and
ethereal affair!
Some Points Concerning Invitations and Answers
TUB Winter season brings -a
host ot social duties which
must be fulfilled It one would
keep up one's reputation for polite
ness and keep In touch with friends
nnd acquaintances. It may be a duty
to entertain a little, in roturn for
hospitalities. It is always a duty to
be prompt In treplylng to invita
tions. The recognition ot tho civili
ties ot others Is one ot the funda
mentals ot good manners.
Invitations need to be sent out
woll In advanco in order to secure
guests In the whirl ot the soason;
Uireo or four Weeks in advance for
formnl dinners and at leant two
weeks ahead oven for very informal
luncheons.
The formal card ot invitation is
used by persons who entertain fre
quently. It U engraved .n script,
with open spaces whero the name ot
a guest, the date, hour and tho
words "at dinner" aro written.
For a dinner or any evening en
tertainment the names of host and
hostess appear on an invitation. For
day occasions, except weddings, the
name ot the hostess alone is used.
An engraved card for evening bears
the words:
Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hall
request the pleasure ot
company
on
j at o clock. .
The engraved address follows.
There may be a line written in a
lower corner, "To go afterward to
the Assembly," or "to the
play," The various dances, hitherto
called "Cotillons," are now to he
Sunday Bee Magazine Page
LLW VM
D " Xillllilillllllllllillllllllllln
r i i in hi) ill mmjji i
And this, you must know,
Is made with a fish-tail train,
whoso long point is edged
with tho lace, which Is then
continued In curved Inser
tion form rigt up tho sides
ot the closely clinging semi
transparency ot palest pink
tUnon to bo Joined together
eventually in the centre ot
the very decollete corsage in
the bonds ot a beautifully,
embroidered true lover's
knot.
So, altogether, the answer
to the riddle of "When is a
nightdress not a night
dress?" will emphatically and
truly bo "When it Is nlnon for then
It Is nothingl" And there are times
when It Is made ot chltfon!
Those other flowered nlnon trans
parencies, of which you had early
news, nre having tho most extraor
dinary success, so much so that u
now model Is being introduced to
enter Into friendly rivalry with thovo
first and absolutely plain creations
which banished ail trimming save
By Mrs. Frank
designated as "Assemblies," the
time-honored "Cotillon" having van
ished from fashion and general
dancing bolng in favor.
Although Invitations for formal
dinners are usu
ally engraved,
it is more the
custom to write
invitations for
semi-formal af
fairs. Certain
rules are ob
served. Note
paper ot best
quality, with ad
dress engraved
at tho head, Is
used, words are
carefully spaced,
names are writ
ten on separate
lines.
Dinners and
luncheons in
honor of debu
tantes are the
order of the
"Then must bo " ony' mviia
driar in inmtN tlon to a lunch-ins-
invitation" eon may be:
Mrs. Henry Mason
requests tho pleasure ot
Miss Robinson's
company at luncheon
on Friday. January the second,
at halfpaat one o'clock,
to meet
Mlas Dorothy Blank.
Although the full name ot a hos-
- -
Copyright 1014,
Hpar-Ho
Debutante Costume of Apple Green
Showing the New Buttoned Effect
and the Looped Display on the
Just tho llttlo flat ribbon which was
used and necessary to catch to
gether, in the centre, the slight ful
ness of tho folds which took becom
ing and comfortable curves over the
bust.
This later and, somo mny think,
lovelier sbapo is still made In nlnon,
with n floral device patterned on tho
filmy white or flesh-pink ground. But
Its rather deep round at the neck Is
Learned, Author of "The Etiquette
teas is given by way ot a distinc
tive understanding, the full name ot
a guest Is not written unless there
may be some reason for making a
clear indication for whom the Invi
tation 1b intended. The envelopo
containing an Invitation should
have the full name and street ad
dress. Informal invitations are notes in
the first person and are briefly ex
pressed. Dear Mr3, Blank:
Will you and Mr. Blank dine
with us informally on FrKay
evening, January the second, and
go to the play?
Yours sincerely,
MARY HALL.
Care in observing the form ot an
Invitation should enable the recipient
to reply correctly, yet many persons
are In doubt what to do. It must be
borno in mind that tho same for
mula Is used for an answer as that
which is embodied in -the Invitation.
It In the third person, it la answered
in that form; It in the first person,
that formula is required.
While the rules ot etiquette govern
the form and may be learned, it must
be always remembered that courtesy
and consideration for others aro
principles which underlla social cus
toms. There should be no delay In
replying to an Invitation which re
quests the pleasure ot one's com
pany. To wait to send an answer on
the chance ot receiving a more de
sirable invitation In the interval la
extremely discourteous and la a
selfish disregard ot the convenience
by the Star Company. Great Britain
thino. LinqpriP
f o 1 1 w e d and
formed by a nar
row edging and
a rather broadly
scalloped yoke of
fine Valenciennes,
the same dainty
finish being given
to the sleeves,
which end their
brief and beauti
ful career just
above the elbow.
And then, finally,
a narrow Inser
tion ot laco pur
sues Its curved
career some few
Inches above the
ninon at tho hem,
and where the
till my- flowered
fabric Is slit up
the right side
(for only a mod
est nine or
ten inches In
lace is carried to
Charmcuse,
on Bodice,
Left Side.
this enso!) the
the edge, so that its -shadowy curves
show up prettily against tho ankle.
And as to undergarments they
iiIho aro arriving nt tho vanishing
pointl For they start lateand end
early, nnd, the newest and most elu
slvo fabric for their working Is fine
not!
A typical pair of combinations in
this particular fabric rs such a light
of New York To-day."
of the hostess, who wishes to know
whom she may expect Although the
social world takes refusals as a mat
ter of course and fills up the gaps,
a hostess wishes to have time to find
eligible substitutes and not -be com
pelled to have an lll-assortod collec
tion ot guests, Acceptances or re
grets, therefore, should be sent with
in twenty-four hours after receiving
invitaUonB to dinners, luncheons or
card parties.
An invitation to a dinner suggests
a greater compliment than Is con
veyed by an invitation to any other
social affair.
A n accept
ance ot a din
ner Invitation
makes It obliga
tory not to al
low any but the
most serious
cause to inter
fere with being
present Illness
or very unex
pected reasons
may arise, it Is
true, and in a
case ot the sort
a note ot expla
nation or a tele
gram must be
sent immediate
ly to the hos
tess. It is never al
lowable to en
ter into any dis
cussion or pro
vision with an
atnle for a wife to
accept nnd a hus
band to rearat."
Invitation to dinner, even when the
invitation may be semi-formal. It la
Rights Reserved.
burden that only two long nnd nar
row shoulder-straps of satin ribbon
are needed for its upholding. In fact
anything elso is rarely used now, as
chemises or combinations, whose fab
ric wns continued over the shoulders
nntl there finished off In tho once or
dinary and universal way with laee
edgings and ribbon threading, would
be unsightly and impossible as worn
with and clearly visible through the
seamless, semi-transparent curves of
tho fashionable corsage.
For the rest, this particular and
pretty net garment is arranged with
alternating groups of graduated tucks
nnd tapering insertion of laco nnd
hand-embroidered sprays of flowers,
tho same decorntlveiy combined de
sign being repeated on tho short and
narrow legs, and the whole thing be
ing so lovely that It will certainly be
worn over the corsets and an Inner
vest, and so do tho duty of camisole ,
and petticoat or knickers as well.
For threo gnrmentsone ot these
bolng the corset represent the maxi
mum of undcrweftr which the woman
who wants to be fashionable and
slender will consent to don this sea
son. Wherefore the sale tor chemise
and knlcker Bets has come to a sud
den nnd almost complete end, so fnr,'
at any rate, as the lawn and cambric
garments nro concerned.
Fascinating frivolities in net and
ninon and crepe do chine are cer-
not courteous to say that one will
come If in town, or it one has recov
ered from Illness; nor Is it permis
sible for a wife to accept and for a
husband to regret, or vice versa.
A reply to an Invitation should be
explicit and decisive. The custom Is
to repeat the date and hour when the
occasion requires definite punctual
ity, thus:
Mr. and Mrs.
acoopt with pleasure
Mr. and Mrs. s
Invitation for dinner
on Tuesday evening,
January tho Sixth
at eight o'clock.
When writing a regret is is cus
tomary to say that "Mr. and Mrs.
regret that a previous engagement
prevents them from accepting Mr.
and Mrs. N 's kind lnlvtation."
The rule is to accept a first invita
tion whenever it is possible to do so.
Answers to Invitations aro written
on note-paper, not on cards.
It must be remembered that an ac
ceptance or a regret Is written In the
present tense. It Is not correct to
write "will accept," or "will be un
able to accept," or that "a previous
engagemect will prevent" etc.
Answers to invitations are ad
dressed invariably to the hostess
alone.
Friends or acqualntanceb who are
In mourning are not invited to formal
dinner or luncheons, but they should
receive Invitations far weddings, re
ceptions, "coming-out" teas for de
butantes and for all affairs of a gen
eral nature when it is proper and
courteous to notify them ot any im
portant social occurrence In a family.
watt
"Woods in Spring," a Delight
ful Morning Costume of
Blue-Gray Taffeta Lightly
Trimmed with Sealskin.
talnly secured sometimes for weur
when eorsetlosB- and tea-gowned easo
Is to be enjoyed; but ns the necessary
completion for daytime aud evening
costumes, a very closelr fitting and
short chemise nnd outer knickers or
culotte of milnnese silk or crepe do
chine are the invariable and really
rather sensible wenr.
No attempt is bc,ln made to popu
larize a new "Juponculottc" of mllan
ese silk, which, by means of a cou
ple of Inner and simple fastenings,
can either be worri as knickers or
petticoat
It is very oleverly nnd closely
shaped, nnd It is nil bordered with a
very slight and flat gauging, which
follows Its upward curve at the sides
and its opening up the front. But,
on the whole, I think the actual
knickers are more practical as well
as smarter.
Some women, however, do not llko
the constriction ot the elastic gath
ering which finishes them off at tho
knees, and so a good many are now
being made to haug loosely 'there nnd
are edged with a tiny belting of lace
or ribbon, their slight opening at
either of the outer side seams being
surmounted by a true lovers' khot
bow or a wreath of weo flowers.
Altogether, our every item ot attire
Is so delightfully dainty this 3cason
that dressing is a f.peclal Joy to say
nothing of an expense!
But In spite of nnd In strange
contrast to the present vogue for
essentially feminine and fascinating
garments, this present senson is also
giving more than usual prominence
to the pajamas which were once mo
nopolized by tho "mere man," but
which now. as designed for women's
wear, arc being made in white, pink,
blue or black tricot and made to
measure, too, pleaso note!
Others arc being modelled in crepe
do chine, but, though a certain and
very youthful type ot girl can man
age to look exceedingly piquant In
such night attire, It Is hopelerssly
unbecoming to the majority of women.
And, really, even for travelling pur
poses, there is no necessity for it to
be ndoptcd, as the very plain night
dress ot crepe rdc chine modelled on
pajamallncs, as regards Its fastening
at the neck and its finishing with a
breast pocket Is Just as practical
and. Infinitely prettier and more suit
able. And my final word, at the moment
on the subject of underwear and
night dresses will be to proclaim crepe
do chine as the ideal material and
the simplest style of making, aa the
smartest
I have often previously drawn at
tention to this particular and perfect
fnbrlc, and so I take a certain
amount of personal pride in being
able to tell you now that It is the
success of iho season, it being already
certain that it will supersede all the
ordinary and once universal white
lawns nnd so forth.
This tact is, indeed, being so fully
realized by the buyers of all the lead-'
ing outfitting departments that they
are. I hear, making their arrange
ments and placing their orders ac
cordingly. Let me glvo you n "tip," however,
which will insure some permanent
satisfaction with every such newly
acquired crepe de ehtne garment
Be .sure to nJwayH choose them In
pink shadings, ns the pure white is
npt to acquire n yellowish tinge after
a rertain amount of washing, whereas
the pink will In course of time -only
grow slightly and still attractiver
1
