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The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
J - I 111-11
Furore for Beads Sweeping Society at 8meea
By LA RACONTBU5B
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Paris, Dec. 29.
Just as history repeats itself, so does fashion, and
now wo are to havo a return of beaded trimmings.
This news floated into Paris, now la tho height of the
midwinter season, from tho IUvlora, whore, on tho
walks, links and in tho casinos, swept by tho balmy
breezes from tho Mediterranean, and the warming
glow of the sun, fashion is dccolved into believing
that It Is Spring, nnd, accordingly, puts on hor Spring
garments. Already at tho Rlrlora they aro wearing
tho garments which will deck tho well-dressed
woman during tho coming Spring season.
Judging by the display seen in tho fashion centres
of tho Hiviera, afternoon as well as evening gowns
nre to bo elaborately trimmed. Tho fur edging and
dainty laces of tho present Winter season aro to bo
replaced with boads. Tho Riviera is fairly bead
crazy. Jot beads, nmbor beads, glass beads, largo
and small beads, beads of every conceivable slmpe,
all woven Into lntrlcato patterns, are seen In pro
fusion. FUR TRIMMINGS STILL IN VOQUE.
Leaving for tho present tho Riviera and its season
of beads, and returning to tho avenues and cafos of
Paris and tho tearooms and streets of London, wo
slip, back Into our furs. Quito apart from the ever
increasing popularity of such Invaluablo accessories
to a Winter toilette as fur stoles and muffs to match,
fur is greatly In demand nlao as a trimming, both
for day and ovonlng gowns, and it is used both in
largo and small quantities with an equally good ef
fect. In tho case of many of tho smartest danco
frocks tho not or laco tunics which are worn over
satin skirts aro bordered with a narrow edging of
dark fur, whllo dinner gowns in chiffon velvet and
in brocho satin and crepo do ohlno aro being mado
with trains, tho horns of which aro outlined with
skunk or stono marten.
Tho samo thing holds good In an even more
marked degroo whero walking gowns aro concerned.
Dull blue Duvetyn of tho soft woollen variety Is tho
fabric choson for a particularly striking gown Been
recontly. Tho skirt is very fully draped and ar
ranged to glvo a panler effect on cither side, whllo
tho bodlco Is trimmed with broad bands of sable,
starting from undor tho arms at the back, and thon
crossing each other and passing nnder tho arms to
tho front of tho waist. Round tho throat thero Is a
closo-flttlng sablo collar, finished in front with paws
and tails, and n soft Jabot of ecru laco. Thoso close
fitting fur collnrB aro enjoying a remarkable voguo
Just now, ami soma of tho most popular are carried,
out in skunk, and finished on one sldo with a kind of
brightly colored satin ribbon.
Othors, again, aro mado in natural undyed fitch,
with two completo skins In front, arranged to give
tho offect of a fur cravat, and .Incidentally forming
an excellent protection to tho throat and chest. A
third skin passes round tho neck, and is fastened up
closely undor tho chin with a small head and paws.
To return for a moment to our sketch. Tho muff
which is carried with this gown is naturally of sable,
and tho long, close-fitting aleevos aro finished with
sablo cuffs. Thoro is something very attractive
about tho bat which completes tho picture. It is
made in black .velvet and in a novel shape with a
softly draped crows, and a brim which turns up
very sharply in front. Two small brush ospreys,
dyed to match tho blue of tho gown, form the sole
trimming of this velvet hat
CONTRASTING COATS AND 3KIRT8.
Although thero is no longer tho charm of novelty
about tho walking costumes which are arranged
with coats in one fabric and skirts In another, they
have taken a firm hold on Dame Fashion's affection,
nnd in ono form or another it seems certain that
i hoy win no very much in ovidenco all tho Winter
through. Ono costume of this sort was noted, the
skirt of which is in dark sapphire blue chiffon velvet,
whllo tho coat Is of brocade, dyed to match exactly
tho color of the skirt, and arranged with raised do-
signs In velvet, on a background of crepo de chine.
This coat is mado In ono of the new shapes for tho
Winter, with vory full basques, cut sufficiently long
to glvo tho all prevailing tunic effect, and held in
at tho waist by a broad belt of white suede, fastened
with one largo button, covered with embroidcrd sap-phlro-bluo
velvet A very handsome collar of white
fox lends an air of great distinction to this brocaded
velvot coat, and can bo rolled up closely round the
throat should occasion require. White fox cuffs
finish tho sleeves, and help to give an air of dainty
freshness to tho wholo toilette. The hat Is of velvet
In a darker shade of blue, with a band of white
fiuedo round tho crown, and a flno strand of crano
plumago on ono sldo of tho brim.
BLACK AND WHITE HARMONIES.
Lovely as the now colors aro this season, thoro
remains still nothing that is really smarter or more
becoming than well-chosen harmonies in black nnd
whlto. AHko for day or evening gowns, this happy
combination seems equally successful. Tho skirt Is
of black charmeuso, while the coat, which Is entire
ly noyel in shapo, is carried out in whlto Duvetyn,
and mado with long basques, arranged In such a way
that they form a tunic, slightly stiffened at the edge
with whalebone, and showing a black charmeuse
lining. Tho fullness at tho waist is drawn In with
a black and whlto check ribbon, tied in a smart bow
on one side.
Tho upper part of this coat is particularly be
coming, with Its broad yoke and high Medici collar,
while tho sleeves fit closely to the arms and reach
below tho wrist. An ermino stole, bordered with a
fringo of talis, carries out the same black and white
idea, and tho hat is of black velvet, trimmed with a
cluster of roses made In soft white kid. The boots
are of black patent leather, with white suede tops,
and when gloves are worn thoy are of white kid with
broad black stitching.
A charming tea gown, modeled according to tho
Oriental style, is shown at tho right. The gown is
developed in light pink satin and silk muslin. Over
a draped foundation of silk muslin is placed a scarf
bolero of black Ohantllly, twisted in front and fall
ing in two long ends finished with jet tassels.
The Bleove, slit at tho elbow, Is finished by rovers
of roBy pink silk muslin, while a small round collar
of velvet of the samo color finishes the neck of the
back.
Over a foundation of satin, veiled by a light pink
silk muslin, and out in a V in tho front, is draped a
"repllo" of tho silk iriuslln, which falls gracefully to
the back. A tunic of Ohantllly lace, lengthened into
points at tho back-falls from the waist line.
Be Careful
MOW
YOU
Give Money to Charity Societies
Recent Distressing Disclosures of
Wastefulness, Graft and
Immorality in Some of the
Charitable Organizations
TfiftiS if the "begging season" of
thiaany and various charity
socletle. Tho. holiday spirit ot
Christmas, kindness, makes it easy to
solicit subscriptions just now -without
much questioning about whether
the money given will bo wisely or
honestly spent
And It is from some ot the mora
responsible charity societies that a
protest has como against giving
money- blindly a warning to the pub
lic not to send subscriptions to any
society that you know little or
nothing about
Every charity society has for its
president a .man or woman more or
less -well known and a board of direc
tors or patrons mado up ot names
which inspire confidence. This list
gt names Is all that most kindly dis
posed persons require as a guarantee
of the efficient and honest manage
ment ot the society.
Recent distressing disclosures have
revealed the fact that these worthy
men and women, whoso names aro
sponsors ot the societies, often know
Bothing about what tho Boclety is
doing or bow the money is being
spent In fact. In some instances it
would appear that charities are run
for personal graft and In the case ot
tl George Junior Republic most
stocking charges ot immorality havo
Ana yet the well-meaning but whol
ly teeowpetent board ot managers or
patronesses ot the Junior Republic
were in childish ignorance ot what
vu g oiag on in the charity thoy were
eatfctwjftstlcally aiding and endorsing.
TfcM facta are solemnly pointed out
e a warning to people who read
fotttetlo appeals, glaace at a list of
weU-ksowii sanies aa patrons and
without further concern write out a
check,
' Anybody can start a charity. The
''aims nnd objects" ot tho society are
always worthy, There is never any
ilf Acuity In getting a list ot patrons
and patronesses whose names nre
calculated to inspire confidence, And
it "would appear from recent disclosures-that
it is-easy to solicit funds.
But how much is really known of tho
work actually dono by the society or
in what spirit tho "alms and objects"
are really carried out?
William B. Qoorge, the originator
and founder of the George Junior
Republic, has been removed from con
trol or personal relations with tho
little men and women under his
charge. For many months the affairs
of this splendidly conceived charity
have been under Investigation and
the shocking disclosures aro unprint
able. So little did tho worthy spon
sors ot the Junior Repuhllo know of
this man Qeorgo and tho real conduct
ot things within the society that
these wretched conditions have been
going on tor years unsuspected. What
did the guaranty ot their names
amount to?
Everybody baB heard of the Inter
national Sunshine Society. This or
ganisation camo Into existenco in
1696 "to Bcatter deeds ot kindness."
Its activities have been so broadened
in recent years th.it in addition to
homes tor blind babies and children,
which it runs, it also conducts n num
ber of aanatoriums or boarding
houses.
Dut the emotional appeal It makes
for contributions Is based almost ex
clusively on its "blind baby" work.
Even movlng-plcturcs ot "blind
babies" have been used in this emo
tional campaign. How effective the
appeal Is may bo judged from the
fact that the society succeeded In
collecting upward of $89,000 during
the blngle year ending May 1st, 1DM.
Two of tho sanatoriums conducted
by this society aro tho Bensonhurst
Sanatorium for convalescents at
Bensonhurst L. I- and tho Westover
Lodge, which adjoins it and which
although called a rest homo is sub
stantially a boarding house. At tho
former, tho rates charged convales
cents are from $15 to $50 a week
and at tho latter $10 a week. Both
of these Institutions are or ought to
bo self-supporting, If not proflt-xnalv
lng, concerns. Certainly tho re
sources of tho charitably inclined
should not be called upon to main
tain boarding houses which can main
tain themselves.
The affairs of the Sunshine Society
(have recently been Investigated by a
special, commlttoo ot tho State Board
of Charities, appointed to Investigate
Its financial operations. Last year,
through tho efforts ot its energetlo
president-general, Mrs. Cynthia West
over Aldon, the State Legislature ap
propriated $20,000 tor the organiza
tion. It was claimed that under its
charter tho International Sunshine
Society was not entitled to this ap
propriation. What the Charity Organization So
ciety thinks of the International Sun
Bhlno Bociety appears from a state
ment recently issued by it In which
it says, in part:
"The fundamental weakness of the
Sunshine Society lies in Its misuse
and abuse ot sentiment. It was not
founded to deal with a definite social
problem. It was founded to encour
age Its members to deeds of kindness.
The tact was overlooked that kind
deeds, it Improperly directed and it
unlntelllgently done, though prompt
ed by good Intentions, really aro not
kind in offect The society's policy
brought it monoy. In finding ways
to spend this money it became in
volved In enterprises which were
not charitable."
An excellent example ot the man
ner in which prominent names are
used to procure contributions to en
terprises which may or may not be
worthy la afforded by the history ot
the William McKlnley Memorial Hos
pital League, organized some five
years ago.
The object ot this league ostensi
bly was to erect a $150,000 hospital
as a monument to tho martyred
President In some way or other,
thoso back ot tho project succeeded
in getting President Taft to commend
it and upon the strength ot his ap
proval there was no difficulty In se
curing other prominent persons to
lend their names to it
Ab a result tho promoters of tho
project Bent out broadcast appeals
upon letter-heads, upon which were
printed the names of an alleged
"Council ot One Hundred." This list
ot namoB Included thoso ot Hon. Jud
son Harmon, Governor of Ohio; Hon.
Woodrow WllBon, then Governor ot
Now Jersey; Hon. H. G. Aldrich,
Governor ot Nebraska, and twenty-six
other Governors, Congressman Nicho
las Longworth, Dr. David Starr Jor
dan, Rev. Joseph Silverman and
various other Senators, college presi
dents, ministers and prominent in
dividuals In all lines ot endeavor.
No moro representative list than
thla could possibly havo been pre
pared, although thla Council ot "Ono
Hundred," as listed on the letter-head
in question, numbers only sixty.
Upon tho strength ot this formi
dable list ot names, some 16,000
Individuals enrolled as members ot
the league and upward ot $6,000 was
collected. What has become ot this
money? Mr. Taft doesn't know,
Woodrow Wilson couldn't tell and no
body elso In the splendid list of
governors, collego presidents and
clergymon can Bay. This illustrates
again how cheerfully people ot
prominence and reputation lend their
names to charity schemes which- they
know nothing about
People who are asked to give char
ity are frequently influenced by the
clerical or semi clerical garb worn
by tho solicitor.
Thero aro a number ot "mission
aries" who go about attired 1& this
manner and raise hundreds of thous
ands ot dollars collectively every
year for orphan asylums lu Turkey
or other Oriental charities. Impetus
was given to this kind ot appeal as
a result ot tho Turkish-Bulgarian
war, which left many victims on
both Bides.
Town Meeting of Citizens and President and Cabinet at tht
George Junior Republic.
A largo percentage ot these solici
tors are downright frauds. Tho
Charity Organization Society recently
undertook an extended investigation
ot the subject and it reported that it
found that as a class these men are
unmitigated frauds, who, armed with
the forged endorsements ot foreign
ecclesiastics and with tho letters of
unwary local officials and ministers,
mako a business of soliciting for al
leged missions and orphan asylums
in Syria and Asiatic Turkoy.
No ono ought to be induced to
contribute to solicitors of this char
acter wlthoufthe most rigid investi
gation.' Tho farther away the object
of the charity Js located, the more
carefully should the claims made tor
It be scrutinized.
Very touching appeals are being
constantly made for contributions
to support the Home for Homeless
(Boys, in East Ono Hundred and
Twenty-third street This is a "ono
man" concern, having no board ot
directors. It is run by a man named
H. O. Eva. Solicitors who call
themselves "missionaries" and are
attired in a garb not unlike that of
a priest find it a simple matter to
secure contributions.
Recent investigation revealed that
the Home tor which these success
ful appeals are made ljad accommo
dations for forty boys but no bath
ing facilities, no medical examina
tion and no supervision ot the dor
mitories. Its application for incor
poration was recently refused by the
State Board or Charities.
Sometimes the solicitor leaves oft
the garb, but assumes the title ot a
divine. For twenty-five years or
more the "Rev." William H. Ram-
scar, a venerable looking old man,
succeeding in collecting thousands
of dollars' for various "homes" he
claimed to conduct from time to
time. Ho was constantly getting
into trouble with the law and on
one occasion served a year In tho
penitentiary for nu assault he com
mitted, but when he was at largo
he was a most assiduous collector
for his various charitable enter
prises. Investigation revealed that the
"homes" he ran were of the most
inefficient character, to say tho
least, and would hardly havo beei
considered worthy ot contributions
had those who made"donatlons mado
even the most cursory examination
ot the facts.
Many of the cbarltablo organiza
tions which mako emotional appeals
ifor funds and get them aro much
less pretentious than the literature
they send out would lead one to
expect
Ot course, it is necessary for in
stitutions to do a certain amount ot
investigating before distributing the
funds they collect and it is not al
ways possible to procure voluntary
workers for this service. It has
been said that only 23 cents out of
every dollar collected by the Charity
Organization Society is spent ac
tually for actual relief that the rest
goes for office and other expenses.
This may or may not be correct, but
even If it Is, it must be remembered
that it is much better to have 23,
cents out of every dollar donated to
charity spent wisely than to havo
twice the total amount collected by
that organization distributed Indiscriminately.
This Mixing of Both Sexes Is Criticised.
But sometimes this Investigation
is a little too extensive and much
tnn pxnnnnlvn. Tn thn rnoa nf a
worthy widow. Mrs. Magglo Ustlch,
for instance, it was discovered that
no less than $5,000 was spent first
and last in Investigating her worthi
ness and she finally received
various sums aggregating less than
SS00 I: cost $",000 to decide about
disbursing $300.
Many other instances might be
cited to show how necessary It is
for tho person who desires to give
to exercise a little discrimination jn
doing so.
Tho Merchants' Association ot
New York issues some very valuable
"don'ts," which it might bo well for
every pno to observe:
1. Don't glvo to a collector just to
get rid of him. Frauds flourish con
tho folly of people who do this.
2. Beware of one-man organiza
tions. '
3. Don't give to nny organization
which does not have its accounts
satisfactorily audited yearly and
which Is not willing to mako publto
annually a financial statement.
4. Tho fact that a woman appeals
to you for a contribution does not
necessarily Imply that the charity
in which Bhe Is Interested Is worthy
Fraudulent charitable enterprises'
are quite as often conducted by
wpmen as by men. "
5. Many appeals for money en
largo upon the sufferings of the poor.
Because there Is misery in New York
U not proof of an agency's efficiency;
tlon la doing to stop this sufferins,
and give accordingly. u""o&
. Always Investigate before you