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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 28, 1913)
The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page Fa BAZAR rem j m t s 19 T Charming Boudoir Cap and Pendent Ornaments fey Poiret IN. tho January number of UAH ITER'S. BAZAn, Paul Polrot, the lending man 'dressmaker of Purls, contribute his second fascinating arilclo upon (lie philosophy of fash ions, Illustrating it with his own sketches' nn'd photographs of his gowns. Some of these exquisite dresses ate shown oh this pnK by permission of HAHPER'S BAZAR, together with excerpts, from M. Polret's Interesting text By Paul Poiret, in HARPER'B BAZAR. Reprinted fron: the January num ber ef HARPER'S BAZAR by per mission of HARPER'8 BAZAR. f HE -articles written about my trip to America havo been shown me, now, upon my rc turn to Paris, and I nni qulto aghast at what I nm supposed to hnvo said. Happily for me, I hope that tho pub lic will Judgb mo by my work; not by my words,, for-the latterhave, lnmorct , cases, been singularly distorted. Tho only statement in all these articles which If.wWi' to. rcpeaty-and nga'ln and ngaia-Ms that ntl stylcsl ro ad missible, ' provided they suit tbo women who wear them. Eclcctttma Is my wntchwqrd. Those who understood me to make uch statements mistook my meaning entirely. I said that a woman should wear whatever Is becoming, to her, and nothing that is not becoming. That is my first, 'last and only prin ciple. It may bo enlarged, of course, and developed. But It Is tho fundamental principle of good dressing. Por good dressing, as I have said, docs not lie in following the fashions, but in wear lug whatever Is suitable. . And lnco I bo (Irmly maintain tho principle. I could not possibly havo said, that women should drees In this, that or another fnwhlon. I am not opposed to trouscrertci. I think that in many cnBes thoy would bo convenient, preserving tho ullm outllno around tho ankles of which tho modern women seem ho fond, while, nt tho samo lime, they would glvo ease In walking. And thoy would not mnko n woman look mas culine, nsvhas been nverrcd. Far from it. I Imvo always found that tho more masculine the-nttlro a woman wears the moro feminine she really looks. Take the tallor-rando suit, for in stance. When It was first lanca hands were ralsod In horror nt it And yet to-day, who would say that it Is an unwomanly Btyle? Isn't It, on the contrary, not only tho most practical but tlic most becoming of feminine fashions? And tho sailor hat surely that is n mnscullno style of headgear. Dut did it ever mnko n woman look masculine? -1 always think there is nothing mj feminine iV3 a crop of dnlnty eurlH showing be neath the brim of a jaunty sailor hat But whllo I nm not opposed to trouserettes, I would not advise & woman to wear them unless sho is so situated that she can, in tho begin ning, at least, brave conventions. Tho world is slow to adopt innovations, and the womau who dares to launch the trouserettes must bo prepared to take the consequences which tho wearing of these garmetns would un doubtedly bring upon her. If 3ho does not fear criticism, then I think it Is the right fashion for her. A? to the slit skirt I havo this to say; Tho slit skirt is the only form "As Many Styles as There Are Women," He Tells The BAZAR PHHflMk Odd and Interesting Gowns 1 ff'B by the Foremost Man Dress- y J IE I mm 7 MM I Xi bMbW ' 'F 1 Wmmw Abova Is a Poiret Gown of Back Velvet with Crinolino of White Chiffon. Below I a Poiret "Majestic Gown" for Opera or Large Receptions. It Is of Old Rose and Silver, and Worn by Madame Lo Comtesse do Beam. Both Are Sketches Made by Poiret Especially for HARPER'S BAZAR. in. which tho extremely tight skirt can bo worn. 'Mnny women like tho extremely tight skirt I can under stand thl la a measure. If a woman hnB a beautiful figure, the tight skirt gives her n very graceful Hue. I would not ndvlso other women to wear the extremoly tight skirt. If it is brought so tightly around the lower part of tho limbs ns almost to reveal them, then, of course, the skirt must be slit to permit the wearer to movo about. And ns I hnvo said nbove. If a woman desires to dress In this fashion, and it it is becoming to her, I advocate the silt skirt But I should not dream of asking all women to adopt It. For the ma jority I should advocate n skirt of medium width wide enough to walk In. I think, however, that it is not necessary to take very long strides. They are most ungraceful. I consldor n skirt about a yard and a half to two yards wide suitable to most women, and In sklrtt of that width a woman can Icnrn to walk grace fully. If the two-yard skirt hampers the feet to the degree of awkward ness, a wider one should be worn. Tho designs Illustrating this article are Bonio of tho gowns I have planned since I returned to Paris from your country. You will notice thnt they are all different, and It will bo very hard to point n dominant idea. It is my theory that there should be as many styles of dress as there arc women. Although I am consid ered tho hlgh-prlest of fu'3hlon, Its system of rules has no more bitter enemy than mybelf. Ono of these sketches shows n ma jestic gown for opera or large recep- Tea Serving and Tea Making--Byjr TN our great cities, where distances and many Interruptions prevent frequent meeting, the threads of friendship may be taken up at teas; plans may bo farmed among friends for future racial pleasures, and pleasant acquaintances may be made. In small cities, or in the country, and in college towin informal teas may be Nery delightful occasions. A hostess Who understands how to "bring people together, and who has the firmness to make a habit of stay ing at home one afternoon in the week during the season, -may creato a centre of interest which will aid in her populrirlty. Friends will gravi tate jtoWird a centre where they aro sure f aj cordial welcome a pleasant chat, tho chance of meeting ngree ablo people, and last but not least, whero you may find a good cup of tea. Truly it is a mark of courtesy and hospitality that a hostess should have tea carefully made. She should be ns sensitive about having a poor cup of tea served In her house as to have a badly prepared dish offered at her dinner table. Nothing Is more discomforting to a guest than to be given tea which la strong and bitter with tannin from long standing, or which Is tastoloss and watery. It Is tar from being "the cup that cheers." It has uot 'the power of calm, placid and benig nant exhilaration" claimed for it and which la its due, and the un fortunate guest is forced to chooso between swallowing' the mixture or finding a'placo where the offending cup of tea may be put down unob truslvely on a table. A critic has remarked that life is a success in the home where tea is brewed to perfection. Thus Is the mistress of the household proved to he a thoughtful provider of essentials and one who understands thVphllos ophy of life la the dlspenslnjfot her hospitalities. Tea served in the afternoon is an c&tnbllshed custom in England, In great houses and In small. The tltae-for relaxation after the occu pations, amusements or sports of the day makes the Interval before dressing for dinner very enjoyable. The tea tablo seems ladon with a variety of delectable things, and It goes without saying that tho tea Is well made and of a delicious flavor. In many houses hero tea is served overy afternoon, whether visitors aro expected or not The tea tray is brought in at about flvo o'clock and Is put on a small tea tablo over which a linen cloth has been placed. On tho tray Bhould be a hot-water kettle with alcohol lamp underneath, a teapot, sugar bowl with sugar tongs, cream Jug. tea caddy, sevoral cups and saucers with teaspoons laid on the saucers. JSandwlchos, biscuits, toast, muffins and cake are served. Small plates and little linen dollies are In readiness tor use. Tea should bo of a superior quality and delicate flavor. Tho rule for making tea Is ono teaspoonful for each person and one for tbo pot Before putting in the tea the teapot should be scalded. Freshly boiling water should be poured on tho tea. Tho decoction may stand a few min utes, then moro boiling water added and the Infusion should be poured Immediately. If one Is re ceiving a number of guests fresh tea should be constantly made and two teapots provided for the purpose. The hostess may pour the tea her self, or ask a reliable friend to take this duty. Hons, it is composed of a heavy bro endo drapery caught in a wide dla-mond-etudded belt. It is an adapta tion of the gowns worn by thegramlci dames of Venice, In the days of Its splendor, nnd, it brings to mind tho sumptuov - glories of the Renaissance. it is of Oiu raso and silver and was worn by Madame la Comtesse de Beam. The gown of black velvet has a cir cular baarjuc effect, nnd on it is fas toned a crinoline of white chiffon em broidered with heavy black dots. The train is formed by three long. points. This fascinating article will be found In full In the January number of HARPER'S BAZAR. "An adaptation towns worn of by tits It. m r n A m . 1 , m m. . m or Venice in the days of its splendor." Copyright, im. by the Star Company. Or ti-.