The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
The New "Plerretle" Effect
in Bread Far Bands
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LadV- duff-gor.
DON, the fmo
"Lwdle" ef Lem
ion, and foeot cre
ator of fSon in the
worlds write each veck
the fathkm article far this
newipeper, pfutnliag all
that it newest and beat m
tyje for watt drued
Lady Dttfr-GenUn't new Pari,
cetabiehment brings her mto close
touch with that eawtw of fahin.
Lk Dwff-Ceidcn'i American
eMaMiaMMMt M at N. 37 and 39
Wert" fifty laVenth ifcect, New: Yk
By Lady Duff-Gordon
("LttCili")
WKAT woman cm reetet tfcc
lre of ike far ot! A&4
evr 'were fw-tclwad
ooate mU far wraps ee Inxvrtetts m
tfcey ara'.fchdnr. The sew ecate.
Made e the level?, evar-eo-Mpp
sklM, are drapM in all manner et
ways. There te no longer any ran
on far tke e4o-t -woman to dread
wearing a eot even of Babla er
Mink, for, muter tke new treatment
f the pake, ike cents are made to'
cllag ekeely te the ftgvrc, and no
lenter do they add treat breadth to
Ttaee th wkeei tha -wearer el a
4W A. e S J . - . . a aaJ
svr ww wm vjpb
Ho us, bat stent. Leek at the two
fw eeata I ana eendtac yen thte -week
ad yott ean readMy see how'graeefsl
How to Make the Mouth
fttautiful.
WIIILB tke mouth Is one et
tke stoct beautiful and tell
tale features, It te also eaa
ef tke asest neglected. It has mere
had habtt than the eyes, Is mora
Mseitire than thecomplexlon, more
uepUbI to training than the nose,
t far 1m sturdy fibre than the hair.
The lH)e require educating, and I
aaal) tell yea to-day how to educate
tbeat. It te. well at the beginning to
areet the 4anger sisnals. Don't
fall Into the bad habit of pressing
tke Hps Irmly together. Persons of
esptctaftty determined character are
likely te prees the lips firmly to
gether to express, their determf
Batten, Others assume that virtue
if tkay have It not and lmltato tholr
Arm-wUted friends and enemies In
this respect
Bat from the standpoint of beauty.
It Is always a mistake to firmly clo
the lips. They should be as lightly
closed ae possible. As gently as one
torn ietl jReets another the upper lip
afcoaid lte npoa the lower. "Make
thte eae of yevr beauty resolutions;
1 wW never tightly close my litis."
an Italian author wrote in tho Mid
dle Ages. Ah, yes. They were In
terested In the theme of how to be
eowe beavUtiii and how to remain so
area then. "The Jlps should seldom
ha actually closed. To be lovely tho
iMwtk afcottid habitually disclose five
teeth," advfawd the great Italian.
There te, ef course, a sani
tary aUte e Mm subject, and on that
aide of beauty we show ourselves
wteir than the ancients and the
beauty culturteU of the Middle Ages,
Dtaeaae germs eater the body, not
tkrouch the mm, which te protected
by a hairy barricade that snares In
Jnukrs, bat by the mouth, whteh has
I.
tmrnmwmmmMmmmmmmmMarrrm-mmmmaemmm'mmam!'-'
!
HBH .HHfci kMs fi.
Ww9ll-lw lrSp'' -N.
f
DF--Vt their IIbm and ,
their IIbm and
how dellgktfully,
they lend tke
selves to the Is
urea within them.
The strikingly
beautiful ermine
ad broadtail gar
raent is suitable
for reception or
evening wear. The
upper eeette te
teade of the fas
cinating teiHeee emlne. The awn le
alaeter this fur. Tke lower art of
the aoat k, kt a -way, a deep shaped
ftennee attaeked ts the upper see
tlen,' Tke wkete aSalr te qrteusly
draped frea the should era, . The
eeMar te a strip of ike fur finished
with a keary tasseL Thte eellar te
Jtiat twieted onee about the neek, In
saveh the same ntaaner that one
-wevM twtet a hnntlng steek.
Tate, wrap look Ite best -when
wefn'ky atall,sleder wessan Mrs.
Mward B. MeLeea, of Washington,
ler whom I designed tMs superk
.eat,, -wears it meet gracefully.
In the picture shown here tke hat
te a small feoykh aSalr of the black
hroadtall. Mrs. McLean, however,
usually tops It with a smart black
velvet hat decorated with aigrettes.
Squally ohio, but on dlfforont linos,
is the dyed moloskla wrap worn ovor
a dull purple crepe de ch,!no
.founoed with the .moleskin. As I
stave said In earMer letters, the
dyed fare ta light esters are effec
tive when used ae trimming, but only
,drk colore afceuld fee used In the
making ef eeats.
Give great care to Iraiaing the
so protection of any sort Passing
tnrough this gateway of the body
the maleficent germs enter the lungs.
Which aro as defenseless as a rab
bit, and bo got into the blood stream.
Vradom, therefore, dictates that
while the Hps should be but lightly
closed, that when the lips are parted
the Uctk should be a kind of lodge
'&.- fof reception or """ "
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Moleskin takes a
very rich . bluo or
-pirple. That shown
here is purple. The
fur collar and cuffs,
the muff and the
band outlining the
eeat are ef blue fez.
The hat Is moleskin.
In making, er,
rather, la creating
tkte quaint coat ot
a slender debutante,
I used a deep shade
of blue duvetya. The
sleeves fastened
eleely about the
wrists, are 4he very
ehto Babet sleeves,
and, like the collar,
the cuffs and muff
are of rich brown
lag Ut of color Is
given the fur hat by
the orange apples
worn is purpie. ine tKflMf
"Lueile" Ceat ef Ermine and
Broadtail. Little Hat of
Black Broadtail.
Just In the front
It seems to me as I travel from
London to Paris and Paris to Switz
erland that while everyone wears
furs no two people wear them In the
samo fashion. And no one wears
them In the former orthodox man
ner. Verily, there are times when
milady looks as though she would
lose her lovely scarves, so delicately
are they placed over one shoulder or
corners of the mouth upward."
keeper to tho body. As great estates
always have the lodge house and the
lodge keeper1 at the gate to challenge
visitors, so the teeth may challenge
the entrance of germs and prevent
the Invasion of a large army of them.
Not very effectually, however, for
the crevices between the teeth per-
mlt entry of a portion of It What
half way down
'hor back.
However, there
are some who
literally fold
themselves In
in their boas or
scarves, and I
am sending you
a picture of a
matched skunk
,pcarf which ex
plains' this very
new and modish
fashion. The stole
te broad and flat;
It Is made entire
ly of skunk fur
matched , in a
curious way and
folded across tho
wearer's body
two end? are tau
In the front; tho
tened together well below the waist
In tho back. It Is all finished with
dark brown velvet frills.
Tho mutt matches the wrap, but
shows no velvet frills.
And It's tlmo to write of other
things, of hats, for instance, and
veils, and I. have good news from
Parte about both these fascinating
raay be said of the teeth ts that they
check an Invasion, but cannot wholly
resist it.
For this reason train tho lips to
close when In any danger of In
fection. Walking ono day last Sum
mer along ono of the wldo stono
roads in tho chateau country in
fcTanco I was Btruck with tho strange
manner of a young woman who ac
companied me. Our chat was at full
flood when suddenly she become
silent. I looked Inquiringly at her.
She laid her finger on her lip. I
continued to talk. She shook her
head, tapped hor forefinger warning
ly against her Hps and again shook
her head.
"Have you gono suddenly madT" I
asked.
At that she pressed hor finger on
my mouth and locking an arm In
mine hastened my steps. When, we
had walked flvo minutes she released
me and smiled.
"Perhaps you will explain," said I
"Certainly," Bho said. "The little
house near the road Is quarantined,
I happened to see the scarlet fever
flag. Disease germs cannot onter the
mouth that is closed."
Her discretion may have saved
both our lives.
I have learned not to habitually
use tooth powders. They are so dras
tio In their action that they "pucker"
the lips and erentually destroy their
beauty by causing them to be dry
and shrlvolled. I use tooth p,owdera
only twice a week, as one gives the
house a thorough weekly sweeping
and dusting. For the ordinary dally
cleaning I uso a good tooth paste in
tho evening, a liquid dentriflce in the
morning, and after each meal I rinso
the mouth with strong salt water, or
with warm" water into which I have
sprinkled a few drops oMlqutd denti
frice. Indeed I should be well satisfied ts
use salt water for the morning clean
ln of the mouth and teeth. Strong
salt water, at least one fifth salt to
Copyright. m,jby the Star Company. Great Britain
The New Close
Clinging Coats That
Add No
Breadth to the
Plump The
New Fur
Scarves
and Purple
Exquisite "Luclle" Costume ef Moleskin
Dyed Rich Purple.
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Tke Mesl Ftmns
liiing Beoxfy
four-flfths warm water, will kill all
bacteria In the mouth. If the mouth
be feverish, frequent mouth bathe,
say about six a day, will sterilize It
Bicarbonate of soda, a spoonful to
a glass of water. Is another good
mouth bath as well as dentifrice.
In tho education of tho mouth, glvo
great care to training the corners of
the mouth upward. This can be
done by practicing before tho mirror
those expressions which train the
mouth to curve upward. A London
beauty was famous for the beauty of
her expression, especially tho child
ishly innocent lines of her mouth.
She said the secret of this exquisite
expression, which subtracted ten
years from her apparent age, was
that she repeated many times a day
the formula, "Please, papa, prunes
and prisms." Practice of this foolish
phraso will not only lift tho corners
of the lips, but will loosen them If
tightly closed and allow them to fall
Into easy lines.
You have often heard "That girl
Is very pretty until she opens her
mouth. Then all her beauty flees."
That is not alono because, the girl
has neglected her teeth. Perhaps
she hasn't It may mean that sho
has acquired bad habits of speaking.
She may have the mannerism of
seeming to All the mouth with air
and speaking with explosive force.
Or she may muffle her words, speak
ing as though her mouth were filled
with flannel. Or she may stretch the
mouth widely or ridiculously purse
It We should talk without apparent
effort, especially of labial effort The
lips should not work over hard In
talking and they should part pret
tily abovo the teeth, should wreathe
themselves about the teeth.
No mouth Is attractlvo It the Hps
be dry and hard. Soften and moisten
them with frequent and plentiful ap
plications of cold cream. In cold
weather, it they show a disposition
tp crack; soften them wiia a Up
salve.
XMahta Reserved
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Newest
Par'
Costume
ef Matched
Skunk
Scarves and
Dark
Brown
Velvet
articles of femmlne
appareL
At last the black
velvet hat has a rival
a formidable and
fascinating rival
which is going to re
lieve the world of
women from what
was rapidly becom
ing a mania of mo
nqtony. Tho appearance i
or, rather, the re
appearance of black-
panne as a mlllinerial
material is really very
welcome, even on the score of va
riety. But it further has lightness
of effect and actual weight also, to
recommend It, and somehow, too, its
softly shining surface gives, a special
smartness sot only to the hat, but
also to the whole toilette, and keeps
this smartness unimpaired, even
after a long morning's shopping, or
walking, or driving, which would re
duce the black velvet hat to a dis
figuring monument of dustl
That Is Indeed and of course
the one disadvantage of ' the 'black
velvet hatit Is a veritable magnet
for every speck of dust and It also
has a fatal facility for getting shiny
and shabby at the edges.
You see we can dare to rcallzo
and admit its ' ults now ' that we
have the chance of choosing some
thing else and sometimes better, tool
Very unfair, perhaps but also very
human!
And really the new black panne
hats aro irresistibly attractive. They
nre always most moderate in size
and their llttlo brims should take a
slight boat-shaped curve upward at
the right side. The turn-up on the
left side la no longer the essence of
smartness. And they are trimmed
in any number of different ways,
though the general effect arrived at
Is of extreme simplicity.
For Instance, Just one butterfly,
with gold-dusted wings, will havo
alighted by some happy accident on
one side of the crown of such a hat
whose possessor will of a surety be
so well pleased with the resulting
piquancy and admiration of her
headgear that sho will be not one
whit envious of ner possibly more
fortunate and certainly more
moneyed rival whose panne bat is
entirely surrounded by curling and
costly aigrettes!
Moreover, it she be really well
informed and up to date she will see
to it that the butterfly on her hat Is
not left to lead a lonely life, but that
it will have the comfort and com
panionship of one of its kind, as
more or less faithfully portrayed on
the veil!
For, yes, this Is the latest and
daintiest device for -the adornment of
the very clear and flne-mesbed veils
which fashion Is now favoring and
which will be a real relief to eyes
tired out and strained and dazzled by
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the maddening devices of the lac
veil.
The butterfly is very lightly
worked in black chonlllo on either
block or faintly pink net and, of
courso, its most correct, or, at nny
rate, most captivating, position will
bo closo by one corner of a red,
curved mouth how many there will
then bo to envy that happily placed
butterfly!
Tho "beauty spot" veil with Ua
single black, velvet patch is also in
high favor Just now on account of
its similar and distinctly provocative
possibilities, and I foreseo for it a,
much more continued and universal
vogue than for that other novelty,;
the "Harem" veil, which, as its name'
suggests, takes the yashmak for its
model. For Just over tho eyes it Is of
the clearest and finest net the
meshes thero being rounded, while
hero on its broad bordoring of
square-meshed net many little black
velvet spots are showered. So that
the woman with flno oyes as her only
attraction will for onco fear no
rivalry from the most perfectly
featured beauty whose orbs ara
somewhat less bright and magnetic.
'And now as regards other peo
ple's doings and dresses, in connec
tion with the latest black and white
craze. 1 notice any number of new;
models are being made i nthe soft
est possible black moire, the skirts
being draped in many different ways
but with always the same resulting
effect of Bilhouetting the figure with
oven more than the usual closeness,
Ono rather charming and quite nov
el scheme Is the arranging of the
knee-deep tunio in a series of deep
points or scallops. The underskirt
being, as a matter of fact pleated,
though you only discover that it is
not quite plain.
When you look Into it closely or
when the wearer walks, as the folds
aro held down so closely and flatly.
As regards a finish for the corsage,
a double and upstanding frill -of
white tulle is most frequently and
fascinatingly in evidence and is
often carried right down to the
waistline, narrowing as it goes. And
in between there will be crossed
over folds of the soft white fabric,
against which there may well stand
out In boljl and beautiful relief a
pink malmalson carnation, or a
white gardenia guarded by its glos
sy green leaves. This particular
and pretty flower a great favorite
of mine always being the chosen
and chic trimming for some of the
latest Paris creations in the way of
hats.
One which I saw and admired tha
other day was of the now most fav
ored medium size, the brim taking
a bold upward sweep at the left
side and coming well down over tho
other ear and eye. It was in quUe
1 1 ver Bmotn and shiny
make of black straw, and the SI
i" Je,r0 861 m,dwar atut tha
imf 'Sh CrJwn' AM-Mown MoT
bu,ds and leaTes being very
Mr grouped together on m
encircling fold of black moire X