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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 23, 1913)
Page Costly Triumphs in Tailless Ermine and Other Luxurious Furs and Fabrics EvenihoWraps The Omaha Sunday Bee I Magazine i -DOWNS fl LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the. fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into closs . touch with that centre of fasiiion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment it at Nos. 37 ant! 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York City. By Lady DijFF-GORDON ("Lucile") r-r-iHE woman who la able to havo 1 a second fur coat, specially dedicated to oven'lnr wear. Is to be 'specially congratulated and will bo surely envied. For such wraps are at their regal loveliest this season, and she will have tho chanco of making a triumphal entry into theatre or opera house in, for example, a ceat of tailless ermine, where tho east' less white- skins aro so manipulated as to curvo around the flgurq and follow the sweeping wldtii of shoulders and sleeves- and tho closely enwrapped, upward drawn slenderness beneath. Not one touch of trimming or color is permitted -Co break into this outer marvel of modelling and whiteness, but when the coat la fltwg opes it Is shown to be "all glorious wlthln." the lining being of gold coloredsatin, shot and brocaded with shimmering silver, Another new creation and triumph In tailless ermine, where again the skins form 'encircling curves Instead, of downward lines, is draped high up on the left hip and there caught Into a bow ornament formed of the fur. In this case, however, a single fox skin of pale amber shading is laid flatly above the shoelders so that Ka'wholo width la shown. Tho contrast of color beta further and jaost fascinatingly completed by a lining of softest Saxe blue brocaded charaeuse. Cream caracul, trlavKbd with white stank, la also available and attractive tor the who prefer aad oaa ae4 sues,' sehsttee Of smartness are, of ceWseapt to.pravs oostly in wear as as la Initial outlay. I have reewly a a ssoet. won derful Utleg et beauty. A. wrap of pure while Russia kxtratne, whose draperies are so eteVsdy f mahlpu; lated M to iera a deep pMet at the back aad tbea to be drawls, yip ,ln front late tho etee eteap bt a oonple of little otastee heads aad two pairs of dlmlaweWe. paws, these further serving to. ftaiak oK the7 great collar of white fax far, which there, ends Its protective aad dec6rative career And following all the upward sweep of the graceful wrap Is a. vary deep triage of white eaenllte. Two tasssU to match are affixed to v the wi4e.a)r-opwiBa at either slde lr actual sleeves there are ohe1," this fceiBAYMto, et the hstaay models which taw seatsitfy tin task of ad utmit, aad resaoval, U the most amptototy seUsfeotory fashion. ' AM Mult, bet Mt lt the liable U a wonderful brocade, whose soflr blM aad greens aserge late a shim mer of silver. iBMfiae, too, aaether eoat whose whoJe'aeeer part k of tho BeMvlea ealeoalUa, whoa elear gray eeterlag ie m oersted aad so eeetly. Tho aowatwraed collar oaa he vptvraed elosoly aad vcsUy whea o desired, aad tho froaU, too, fastened fart over oho loft sM, . the mmo lias Ittteff tbea takea up hf tallloM eratae beneath an ea elrcilag aad unltlag' band of oxidised liver )aeo which curves low down on tho back aad over the sleeves and so acroos the froat And as gold, and silver, too, aro brought together in tho liaiag, you do not need to be told that the effect of this wrap Is positively regal. Other ermine, coals make eventual aid decorative use of the, aty&r&t, vanished tails as a bordering for the fronts aad the sleeves, white tho much favored fox ekln will .finish them o at the neck. Aad, Indeed, some such furry finish Is a necessity allko of fashion and comfort wherever the fabric and the evening ceat ay be, fox skins, white, black, "blue," red or pale yel low being almost invariably chosen for the purpose. In such cases, the complete skin with head and pawa and brush will be laid out flatly about th shoulders, but only fas tened down la the centre, soHhat It may bo adjusted la several different ways. Whea, however, as so often hap? pens, tho whole wrap is provided with a bordering of fox, all such jaddiUoas aro banished, a&d only an uabrokea softness of fur is used. Metaral Viae fox looks lovely when It thus gives a finish to a gracefully shaped wrap of white and black vel volt brocade, tho lining being of sseeallawt blue aad silver, while 1 I'miU hardly think that white fox will, all through tho season, be pat to more effective uso than as a great collar, deep cuffs and & bordering band on a wonderful black coat, on whoso upper part wavo-llko lines of light are formed toy Jet and crystal beads and bugles. Then as a broad bordering for tho elosoly draped folds beneath black charmouso. There is, hand-painted and hand broldered In silvery white, a design of nymphs and Batyrs, whose in ' splration came from an old Etruscan frlozol Truly a startling changer this procession of figuresfrom the usual scrolls and flowdrs,-but one' which is likely to become more fa miliar before the season Is over in HKiaV i.Sl , -' ' I HaaVnai sKflajBoa - l -s v -AsaBHsaBBaii i meshed bbbbH JBnn ? ;anHaBaS LbkJfBaflfi ' " lanil LPVaEaSBBBBH Charming in It Simplicity and Croatia Fittingly Ckristewod view of the tact that tho old-time Grecian graces of drapery are being revived in our modem dress. And, bx tho way, there Is atlU an other very piquant detail of this coat which mst by no means be omitted from my chronicltng or your copying. To wit, filmy frills of black tulle, which fall Ugutfyover the Bnrjwy whiteness of the fur col lar and cuffs. I must also tell you that one of the- newest, evening cloaks is pro Tided with ' only one armhole, and that at tho right side, the othor arm being just carried in and cozlly cov ered by a ellng-shaped fulness of the moonlight-blue velvet, whose trimming with sah)o and sliver would alone make it distinctive al decorative. And I am not sure that there la, not a certain method la tMs apparent madness, tor only one hand is, of course, required to catch up the traiaod skirt I shall send you a picture of one of these sleeveless wraps in another fortnight or ao. Just at present I am interested in two brocade eve ning wraps which will be included In the trousseau of a January bride. 1 am sending you pictures of them. The one of sumptuous white and green brocaded velvet has the new. long sleeves. They are very wide at the upper part, then slope in sharply at the wrist V most sen sible fashion this is, for tho closs- War-arc,. m-rm-mr wr:r m sb&x. as tt-aas .iXuiv ill psaBBBBjis i niasai urn i m "3 BM-asaw; mllk"' jrer- rt Grace A New "Lucile" tho "Birth of Venus." fltting sleeve Is much warmer than the wide ono. The lines of this coat ere straight; it is very full from the shoulders, but I have not Introduced any dra pery at all. v" ' The second coat is a marvellous gold and "black brocade, trimmed with rabbit sable. The tassels, which are a new thought tor evening coats, are of gold cord. There is no garment in' a woman's wardrobo which may be bo gorgeous as her evening wrap: it may be as colorful as a peacock's plumage, or of one solid color, heavily trimmed with fur It may be, also, of fur, such as I have already described. It Is all a matter jut choice and pocketbook. And, any way, it is something new and different, as is also a rather longer coat, which at the back forms two deep points between which the train of the skirt can pursue an un interrupted and, therefore, all the more graceful, career. Black velvet, outwardly -trimmed with that very -decoratlvely marked fur natural fitch and Invariably lined with shell pink crepe dp chine, can also bo noted aa being both practical and effective, while it any thing rather more startling is wanted it is provided by a three-quarter wrap of, geranium pink velvet, whose brilliance is becomingly softened near the face by a great black fox skin, a bordering of the fur also finishing off the wide sleeves and Copyright. 191 :ht, 191 finally figuring with splendid eSect as an edging for the flouncoof gold- laoe which is -mtroaucea midway on the wrap-over shape, but which ends its shining career at either end, so tho fronts may bare the unbroken lines, which are be coming to all figures. As an after thought I am sending you a photograph of, aa exquisite little gown which I eall the Birth of Venue It is'a misty pink chiffon, My Secrets of Beauty By How to Make Your Waist Smaller. SINCE fashion, for women1 is the most fluctuating of quantities It behooves a woman not only to suit ber figure .to the mode but to know how speedily to change it with any change of mode. While the woman well endowed with common sense never made any encroachment upon her health fund to suit the needs of fashion nor ber conception of beauty, she keeps herself Informed aB to sound methods of Increasing or lessening her weight JSuch women will be glad to know of the modes that have come Into vogue for making the waist smaller. It Is always well to proceed from cause to effect and tho reasons for the prevailing larger waist than the former waspllko ono are several. First, women are enlarging the en tire body by saner and more hygienic living. Second, whereas they used to com press tho waist to keep It down to artificial measurements they are now letting it out to its normal site be cause fashion permits a freer figure. But there are two other and basic reasons for the large waist neither of which Is desirable. One Is a chronic gaseous condition in the In testines, which distends the waist to far beyond its normal size. The other is the layer upon layer of adipose tissue for which we give the -shorter word "fat," that lla upon and about the muscles of the waist Suppose that you learn to-day how to reduce the waist measure from the size gained through either or both of these means. An eminent man, whose name you would, all quickly recognize should I write it, reduced his wast meas urement five Inches, at the came by ht Star Company Great Britain . by Lady and lovely, draped gracefully so . as to give long, straight lines. The shades of the chiffon are Just the shades in the pearls aB the light falls on them. There Is a simplicity about this costume which is very appealing. Gowns of the broad tall and also of the new fur cloth are growing In fa vor. The new treatment of fur skins which results In their pliability makes even a draped gown well within tho time losing only one pound of flesh. He did this by curing tho gaseous condition that kept his body inflated and his circumference much greater than It should have been. Refusing to materially change his diet, claim ing that be was past forty-five and that after that age any radical change in habits, especially if sudden, is dangerous, he was Induced to eat a little less meat and to chew well whatever he ate. Ho promised to glvo twice as much tlmo to con suming a beefsteak aa he formerly i had done aud, strange to say, self indulgent man though he was, he kept the promise. Beside this, after each meal he swallowed an even tea spoonful of what in the kitchen we call baking soda or In the dressing room bicarbonate of soda. In a small glassful of water. This simple remedy aided digestion and prevented tin formation of .gas. In a fort night there was a noticeable change In his waist line. In two months the waUt was reduced by five Inches, and the banished Incnee have not re turned because he still follows the plan I have described. Another reason for the dlspropoi tlonately large waist, I have told you, is that the waist muscles tare overlaid with fat This has hap pened because the waist muscles are among the least exercbed ones or the body. The fat must be disposed of in just the opposite way from that in which it was acquired. Idleness of those muscles caused the fat In dustry must remove it There are three exercises which, if persevered In, will certainly dis solve the fat at the waist line. The first is known In Paris by the whimsical title, "One hand following the other." It la simply standing Rights Reserved Described rhiff., t Gordon bounds of possibility. Of course, these supple skins do not wear a-a well as the old-fashioned skins, but nowa days wo do not buy clothes for their wearing possibilities. Wo do not hand down our gowns or furs as the previous generations did.. Perhaps the hardest blow we havo Btruck at economy has been the dis carding of the all-lilack evening gown. In New York this serviceable costume is no longer the standby of the smart woman. But in Pari3 the pendulum has swung back, and the black gown is creeping back into favor. This is a perfectly untural development. When the riot of coor bverthrow all dnr dress standard, lnrt Winter, it was natural that black 'would be de Mme. Lina Cavalieri, bS" aBBaVBLjBBBBBBBlBrBB B sbbHBKEoKb Jkfatt. UNA CAVALIERI. posed. We In Paris have been cured of our color madness, and I am sure hat you in your country will be cured of yours before the Winter is over. Therefore I advise you to have at least one all-black gown in your wardrobe preferably one of tho bro caded fabrics. If your pocketbook permits, be suro to get n brocaded chiffon cloth, but there are many other figured materials which are not so expensive. If you want black vel vet for day wear, you will find some lovely figured varieties, all in black, which can bo Very effective. After noon gowns, by tho way, must be mads with longer skirts than former ly, but a train is not necessary, even In evening gowns. erect and holding the arms hori zontally before you, the palms about . six Inches apart, swinging the arms from right to left and back again, until weary. This places a direct pressure on the seldom used muscles of the waist, hardens and diminishes them, and by causing pressure upon the fat slowly dissolves It The second Is a more difficult one, which can be practiced on your bed, and is best doqe on awaking in the morning. Place your feet beneath -the foot ratling of the bed, and hold ing the body securely in this way, gradually raise the body to a sitting posture. As slowly settle back into a reclining attitude. Raise and lower the body thus at least twenty times, unless warned by a strain upon the muscles that you are too greatly taxing them. This exercise must always be taken slowly and smoothly lest 'one of the Internal organs be displaced or strained by abrupt movements. The health de pends largely upon a perfect balance o( tho Internal organs. The displace ment of one of them by a fraction of an Inch may cause Illness. The third and most difficult waist movement Is that of rocking tho body. Squat as boys do when mak ing a sitting jump. Sitting thus with the weight evenly distributed on the muscles of the legs, place the hands behind you with the backs of the bands resting against the heels. Then fancying yourself a rocking, chair, rock evenly back and forth. Four times are enough for a begin ning. Practice will enable you to repeat the exercise twenty-five times. I Violent exercise is seldom found ben eflcal to any one. But the symmetry of a womnn's body, the soft outlines that are so important a part of her) charms are destroyed by any - exer-i clses that unduly develop any set of muscles.