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A Group of New Drmm Designed by Bakt, Reflecting the Harem Faihion.
The Craze for the Oriental
Increases, and Dresses Are
Growing More "Feminine"
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the fa mow "Lack" of ?
Leaden, and fomr.ort creator el fashton in the
, World, writes eacfy week the fashion article for
this newspaper, presenting aH that w mwn( and W 'w
tyta for wcH-dresscd womea. 1
Lady Duff-Gordon's Pari estafcfehfftent brings bar x "
to dose touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duf-GoroWs America! eitafelishment u at
No. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street New York, -
Afternoon Gown of Dull
Biu Bat La
MVWf fcStVwTTauVfgi M
Nw Ovsr-Sfcirt.
By Lady Dflf-G&ri
MUicltn)
Part. Oct. 1ft.
TKB harem tntaeaoe continue to be
treag-ly evident la the fashions
ef the Winter. The Arab have a
saying that all good thing oomo from the
Seat. 8o we In Pari turn Eastward for'
ear fashion. Wo are taking the boat In
eater and design from each country, even
from Persia.
There are no audi color comblnatlona in
he world a those we set from the OrlonC
Xot only do we gat oolor, but we get do
sagas and labrica that are gloriously beau.
tttuL Where buia the aarem could we get
aeh complete femininity ma has been dis
played in the faaatoas ef the last Oto years?
The harem dree la the drees of allurement.
Mo OeeUeatal waaaea aaderatand the mys
tery, the depth of allurement aa the Ori
ental women do. They axe the essence of
femininity, sad to man thle essence la the
nsest'ttlnrtsg thing im the world.
hi the pictures 2 am sending this week
the Ortsasal felaeaee is shown la the coir
meris rather than in tk design.
Thee models were shows tat a pea.
lac ea entomber. The dancing gown v is
he aenteet thing imaginable. K Is de
veloped la deMeate rose oharmeuse. The
snJneret tuslo ia of rose chiffon edced
with fr that is caught In places with tiny
The bodice, with its Interesting.
orated with pearte.
The eap head-drees le esaeaUaUy fern,
tnlae, 1 think It is, .however, only suit
ed for a youthful aad, ereterabiy,
The afteraeea fewa ef dull blue tap
feta shows the hareea ulneaee lathe
scant, up-ia-freai shirt. The bouffant
everehart, with Its three frHle, ta very
ehte aad meet modern. There Is a slat
ef 4ha aeuave 4a the- ptald belt aad the
veitMBlaeB bodtee. The three-tiered
ateevea are rery sew, aad are, I think,
very fetehlag.
There ie a ehleaeea about thle .walkfaig
costume which will appea! to many Aser
caa woaea. K ta the favorKe black-aad
whKe eofabtnaHoa. too. The sWrt ia
severely aimple, hut baa excelleat Maea.
The ceat te of white brocaded velow, aad
M of a reasarkable almpllcKy The Maefe
velvet hat, with Its whlto plume, carries out
the black-and-white idea very delightfully.
Aa odd touch ia given by the peart bead
under the chin Instead of the black velvet
ribbon which many of the young women are
wearing.
No, we have sot takes our painted furs
froBs the Orient Tfiey are distinctly Pari
sian. 1 have seen some remarkable result
recently In the development of these furs,
and I am glad to be able to tell you more
about them, and am also gkt to be able
to tell you that thoy have not caught on
with really smart women.
That Is an admitted fact, for which we
abould be truly thankful, for a mass of
bright geranium red, or emerald green, or
sapphire blue, laid about the ahouldera and
coming close up against the face, would be
unbecoming to almost any one, aad posi
tively fatally eo to acme.
But some of the soft!? shaded furs which
have now appeared have been Instantly wel
comed, and will be much worn during the
next few weeks, some of these being Just
the more ordinary stoles aad enu&a formed
ef complete skins, while others are fancifully
arranged with foundatloaa and frlllings of
velvet or satin.
The variety of these new and decorative
fur sets is, Indeed, simply wonderful, and
the result of it all will be that the fashion,
able -woman will assuredly be Involved this
season in a very heavy extra outlay (her
husband probably calling it "wickedly ex
travagant!") Far she wff
wart at least three far
eeata ta the dttereat
shapes aad lengths aad
skins. Kct aad equally
approved by Fashiea, aad
certainly the aaate aaaber
ef atole aad atat sets; one,
perhaps', ahleHy protective
aad salted to general
wear, another ia one ef
the striking contrast
seh ernes ef black aad
white, which are to have
a great vogue, aad as
third, frankly seasatteaal
aad darlag to a degree
which would have been 1st.
possible a year or two age
Jbut which nowadays is
quite aeceesary If anything
ef a tsark, le to be made
ta the season of sensa
tions fashions, fabrics aad
furs.
Oh! If oaly a man could
be made to uaderataad tor
Just a moment what a
woman foe Is when ahe Is
confronted by, say. three
entirely desirable and de
lightful things, and then
sadly remembers or la
sternly told that she can
have only one I It is noth
ing more nor less than a
tragedy; for a woman's
time for wearing, or, at
any rate, looking really
well in these ssaart. "sen
sation" things, is so horribly short: for once
ahe begins to show the slightest sign of age,
or even middle age, she cannot or, at any
rate, should sot be allowed to wear any
thing startling or extreme, but Just be con
tent to have dignified and "suitable'' clothes.
Positively, I pity the aulddleaged woman
this season, for though rich fabrics (whlea
would oace have beea dedicated to the
dowagers) are ia geaeral see, there is noth
ing la the style ef their aaaktac up hut a
delightful, provocative, tantalising daring,
only suited to the more youthful aad slender
wearers.
The muff brings the velvety moleskins
into more ptomlnence, for they are used ta
form the whole of the deeply pointed, loosely
k J
Debutante
Dancing
Gown
of Rose
Satin
and Chiton,
with
the New
Minaret
Pannier.
hanging pouch shape, from which agala
there hangs a swaying silken fringe. Thea
on either aide of the widest upper part a
yellow fox akin ia curved, the position of
each one being exactly reversed, so that
both at the back and in the front you get
one head and one tall as aa additional
adornment.
Another set brings the same well con
trasted furs together, bat ia this case the
fox is tinted to a pais amber shade, while
the moleskin Is of the softest moss green,
and the stole has for fastening and finish a
big and beautiful ornament of allk cord and
tassels.
WaHua Costume of Black Cyaae, witfc
White Bofcade Coat Trimmed
with Swassdowa.
Copyright, ISIS, by the Star Company. ' Ureal Britain Went Reterrcd.
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