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The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
BUI C
Duff-Gordon Describes the
Return of the "Stomach Shape' Made
Faritous by Ten Eyck and Holbein.
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and fore
most creator of fashions in the world, write each week the fashion
article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in
styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's Pant establishment brings her into close touch
with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39
West Fifty-seven street. New York.
1 -
-By'Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile")
Farts, Octobef 0.
IAVB we discovered a sew figure or are wo
returning to as M oae? A1b! even la fig
ures tfer ts nothing new under the aun.
The figure wfcklT we are heralding as new
is stspiy the figure handed down to us by Ten Eyck
iukd Holeeta, The iaaMes ef those day frankly ao
GargstJis Evmlsg Wrap el Btscastesl
Okife. Wkich faficatos isSe
New Figure.
tatowiedgod that (hey bad stotaacha and
were unafraid to let the World Into their
eeret. Staee thoee days of frankneu, how
over, the stomach haa become taboo In polite
society. Everybody knows that everybody
1n has a stomach, but the word Keeif fes
$ever zuentionod.
This extreme delicacy haa reached Ita
height In England, whore, with delightful
lack of logic, the woman of fashion will dis
cus everything under the sua, no saatter
how broad It may be, hut never will the
even Intimate that ahe haa a etomach. This
attitude of the ago wu delightfully satirized
by my good friend James Baxrle In hie play
"Little Mary," which in early English would
have been called My Stomach."
The straight front age was the logical out
come of the feeling about stomachs. We
assumed the attitude that If we mutt not
apeak of them we must change our figures
so that, this part of our anatomy did not
chow. And from that day to this we have
atteapte to be as flat aa a aheet of paper.
Mvi the etesslng In of the new silhouette
hue breucbtlua faco to lace again with our
Stosaachs, and with the new gowns if one
haa sot enough fiesh to give the required
Agure, one' mast wear a little bustle in front.
Let m eay right, here, however, that the
dtosad skirts which create the Holbein fig
we do sot reaulre a pad if they are prop
erly tree. The amatew dresssaaker or
151
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the oss whoso tool is shove tho subtle art sf draping
must also use the pad, for It la only the must subtle
and. skilful artist whs eon simulate this Holbein
stomach unaided.
But. of course, the well-liked straight figure will
also continue to be with us. The smart woman saay
display her straight silhouette In the morning, when
she U wearing her tailored costume; her Ten Byek
figure kt the afternoon, when ehe wears her draped
gowns, and in the evening again she may present
her no-figure appearance when sire wears the cling
ing gown, which demands bo corsets. In a way it Is
all a matter of chefes,
This week I am Shewing you one of tho new even
ing -wraps developed In that most delightful and ex
pensive of fabrics, the new brocaded chiffon. This
boat teems to be cut from Dae piece, so graceful' and
Intricate are ita folds, but of course this ta ne so.
The eleeves are. however, et in wkh the body of
the wrap and are very wide and edged with silver
fox. The1 leng boa la also of the fox. The chiffon,
by the way, is an exquisite tone of grape.
I particularly like the gray green satin gown for
receptions and other afternoon affairs which I aa
showing you hers. The skirt has the new kaee band,
which holds the fulness in place In the hack. The
(Buff and the bat are of the satin, The muff Is handed
with brown fox. There la a charming simplicity
about this whole costume whteh pleases me greatly.
The ess stunning effeet Is given by the violet and
sUver glfjdle.
The hot is small, but' has brim esoagb
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1S13, by the Star Comunv Grftt Urlti" "m rtesenait
to shads the eyes most bewKchlngly. The
bird perched smartly on the front strikes an
unusual note. j
And here, la one of my favorite morning
models. I am always glad when I have to
create a walking costume In corduroy. There
is something so wearable about this Jbrlo
and yet' so sumptuous. This skirt has an
odd little turned-up panel in the front, which
buttons on each side just below the girdle.
The coat has the square lines that are pre
eminently chic, and both the skirt and the
coat are banded with moleskin.
The small palo yellow volour hat has only
a bond of the mole around the crown, with
two ends showing at the side.
Speaking of new figures, Tam reminded
pf some of the new fabrics.
Tinsel-patterned embroidered nlnons are
to be the rage 'of this ecacon, Just asthey
were of the last only more so, I should say,
for truly they are lovelier thanvcvcr.
The quaint thing about them and of
many other of the new fabrics, too Is that
they bring together In on entirely inconse
quent but alao exceedingly effective fashion
the deliriously dainty patterns of the Pom
padour period and the world-old and won
derful colorings of the East, And so It Is
that you will find little shadowy bouquets
scattered at regular (or irregular) Intervals
between weirdly entwined and colored de
vices. And each one will seem eo superla
tively desirable that you will not know which
to chooBe as the fabric for your tea gown
or coat, your theatre wrap 'or your evening
drees.
Personally I am making froquent use of
these particular and perfect fabrics for -the
fashioning of tea gowns and boudoir wraps,
and you can perhaps imagine thot J have
found positive inspiration in, for example.
Debulate's
Walking .Costume.
of Brown
Corduroy, Showing
the Odd f
Turned-Up Pane
and the ,
Latest Box Coat
one slnon whose exquisite and elusive blue
is Interwoven with a shadowy device' of
asalla pinks and yellows, 'and "then- ,a
touch or two of vivid emerald grees,
whlle over all there shimmers a broidery
of sliver in a design of trailing foliage and.
flowers.
And then -again imagine and love a
deeply purple nlnon, where blossoms some
of the faintest blue; others of a strange soft
green, and still again some in vivid orange,
their petals all alike, outlined with a shim
mering tracery of silver, while in between
cluster leaves wrought in silver and show
lug purple velnlngs.
There Is a new shado dt old gold, too,
which makoi a beautiful background tor
full-blown roses worked In shaded tinsels,
each thread being so twisted that the whole
flower stands out In bold and beautiful re
lief, and, at some little .distance, looks al
most as It It wore studded with myriads of
tiny many-colored jewels.
On a pale gold colored nlnon. too, a
shower of little golden roses Is lightly scat
tered, while here and there one giant bloom
shines out, Iridescent exquisite In tinsel
threads, shading from stlrer to green and
from blue to purple.
Another new make In nlnon is of special
texture and strength, so that it may better
bear the burden of a brocaded device, of gold
or silver, such as Is usually only seen on
heavier satin ground.
Tall, palm-like fronds of silver, shining
out against a blue as bright and beautiful
as the Mediterranean Sea under the Sum
mer sun. Js one example of the patterning
and the posslbtlltles.of this new nlnon, while
gold blazoned on black or emerald green
will also and surely find many admirers and'
wearers.