15 rr What Those Old Maids Will Think My Own Beauty Secrets No. 4 Hiding: Physical Defects Hints for the Stout and Slim. By Anna Held A Partnership or THE BEE: OMAHA, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 4, 11)13. f II L By ADA PATTERSON. A home for old maids la building at Tork, P., according to the deathbed wish, of a dying spinster. She bequeathed nearly SSOO.OOO for the purpose. It ln't an almshouse, neither a home for In curables. The lone from an with her dying; breath Instated that n 1 1 her paupers nor Insane should be there sheltered. A woman to whom a small sum re mains can so to the home and en Joy the society of her kind without the odium of ac cepting charity. This nearly Wo, 000 retreat Is In a town of revolu tionary memories Susquehanna river, near Harrlsbnrg. It is near the site considered for the loca tion qf the national capital. Had not the commission appointed In the late years of the seventeen hundreds be lieved the capital should be a river port there would stand a capital where Is tho Old Maids' home and Instead of feminine voices lifted in sprightly Gossip brazen lunged statesmen would be megaphoning their views of tariff revision, and our strained relations with Mexico. But the Susquehanna not being navigable to that point w have Washlnirton Instead of York as a goal for bridal pilgrimages and ambitious politicians. But while no national Issues will ever be settled there It will be Interesting to know what will be the thoughts ex pressed or kept under lock of silence of t)iese residents of the Hahn home. For It will not bo officially called the Old Maids' hqiw. Tho founder tactfully pre Ylded agalast that by giving It a non sommlttal surname, a rugged' German name, that committed the Inmates to no Policy nor platform. Perhaps she had herself in the long years of her single life winced at the name of "old maid." Not at, the title, though that Is hardly correct, the word maid always carrimr the Idea of youth, but at the manner of Its utterance, Plainly whoever used the term "old maid" meant "you've missed a husband." The term Is being dropped. It ought to go to the brush heap of disused words because it Is an Inaccuracy and for the better reason that Jt was Invented to convey reproach where there is no re proach. Instead of having mjesed a hus band, old maids have generally escaped them. Doubtless the thoughts of the silver haired .women who spsnd their twilight days' the Hahn home will often foous upon the founder. They will rejoice that Miss' Anna Lioulse Oardner never mar ried ."and great will be their reJ6io)ng as that of the old tars at Bailors'? elnug Harbor on Staten Jsland, New York, who give -sincere, though sometimes, from habit, profane, thanks that one maid was fickle. Had not the maid been fickle there the beau of old Manhattan would haye married and, had he married hs thoughts would hot have turned to the homeless men of the sea and to pro viding a home for them. If Miss Gardner had become Mrs. Somebody, there would have, been no Dleasant rnnma rnr ful care-freo years nrenar.ul hv' h 'fn the solitary women. So whether Miss Gardner worshipped on idol and dls. covered his feet of etav. nr rv,tt,... .k was a strong Individualist who preferred soiuuoe io lemuy life, the nm&t t the Hahn home will raJoc anjl b ex- r ssHsittzftstaH The Manioure Lady By yiLMAM P. KIRK. "Gee, GCprge, I guess the worst has come" exclaimed the Manicure Lady. "1 have been sued by an attorney at law.' "Don't faint," said the Head Barber. "He can't kill you." "No, but I never was sued before," ex plained the Manicure Lady, "and, honest to goodness, George, I never thought the time would come when I would get pua f these here blue papers from an at torney at law. If It was Just from a plain lawyer I wouldn't feel so bad, but -attorney at law must tfe some big guy,'- "They mean the same thing," said the Head Barber. ''When a young lawypt first gets out ot college he has attorney it law printed on 6me stationery. After has been twenty years In the league nd takes nothing but big cases, he calls himself a lawyer. What is the trouble til about, kid?" "Oh. it's that dressmaker of mine, tald the Manicure Lady, "You know, eorge, that I don't wear very many dif ferent dresses, but what I do get I want right, and the last dress she delivered to me looked as If it was made for Bars. Bernhart. I Just couldn't get my girlish Plumpness Into It no way I tried, and told her so, but she got kind of up stage ind wanted me to keep It the way It was. ( suppose she figured in time I would ret no thin worrying about It that the dress would fit me, but I ain't talted that way. I Just wrapped It up nd shot It back at her swift and sudden. Now she Is suing roe for the price of tht Dress and I don't know what to do." "Go give her the salve," suggested the Head Barber, "She Is only human, kid, and everybody will listen to salve if it Is spread on good. I used to know a dressmaker that would listen to kind words, and I'll bet if you would go to her and explain that business Is on the frits and that you want to pay her If she will make the dress right, she will come to terms. Kindness la a great thing, lcld, especially when It gets you some thing. Thai's the only reason a lot of people In this world are. kind." "Maybe you are right," said the Mani cure Lady. "I hate to go now and be nice to her after the fierce scrap w ha We called each other so hard that I feel kind of coy and retiring about going to her and being nice. Ain't there some way that I could send word to her and have her make the first reproaches?" "Not after she haa went so far as to ceedlngly glad that she remained In the single state. Then as thoughts of humons do, their thoughts will come back to themselves. They will review the years of their ltycs. With regret do you think? With bitter ness? With no more, be sure, than most black-veiled widows who will pay them calls and compare experiences. "My sweetheart died when I was 17 years old and he was 19 years old," we can Imagine the lone aged woman saying to the family survivor. "Ho was young enough not to have formed bad or Irritating habits," the woman with the black veil might quite honestly remark. "We were too young to marry." "Then you can remember him as per fect. No married woman can," the woman In black could well and truly an swer. "Our courtship was like a poem." "Marriage would haye turned It to prose." Then, the barriers of reticence, let down for the time, they might talk, the one of loneliness of the solitary life, tho other of the Inevitable friction of Joined lives, friction that sometimes becomes unendurable. "I used to think of how sweet It would bo to b takej care of", the woman In gray might sigh. "If you were." the woman In black could assent, but what guarantee has any woman that she wH be taken care of. One-fifth of alt the woman In the United Btates are earning their own liv ing and a tot more would like to. That's because the man hasn't been' equal to his Job, or he has been too lazy or too selfish to care properly for his woman kind. There Is less talk than thero was once about blighted love and roniance that failed, because women are finding out .that there Is a deeper sting in find ins out that a man Isn't able to live up to his plans and specifications. A good many women are supporting their hus bands and a good many more are skimp ing to live on what he earns. It drives thoughta of poetry out of a woman's mind when she finds that she has to take care of herself and maybe her hus band, too. "But children," the dweller In the Hahn homo might say to her visitor, and the visitor might truthfully reply; "V.es, It they're good children. But children are like husbands, an uncer tain quantity until you have had them a long time. You don't typow until they're In sober middle age how they will turn out and then you're not sure, Besides a ohlld Isn't a human doll for some woman to amuse herself with for a. while. It's a. tremendous responsibility to guide a soul through this world. We can't give It our own best qualities and nothing else. Jt is like a many colored stream gathering this hUo and that as It traveled thiouch generation after generation on both aides ot the family. Every woman ish't fit to be a mother- Not mpre tyan half pf theni, anyway. And the other Half needn't be ashamed to admit that they haven't th maternal lnstnct. This is an aire of honesty and plain speaking, and when they have cleared the atmosphere there'll be better and easier living." When the widow has gone home the Hahp homo dweller may draw her shawl moro closely ovor her shoulders and con clude that life Is not necessarily the lone liest that Is spent alone, not Is It wasted If It is not transmitted. She may reflect that in life the law of averages hplds; that most of us strike a balance In our affairs; that humanity, like water seeks Its level and the level for some may bo the Hahn home, and n all probability she will leave off staring questions nt the green hills along the Susquehanna, nnd o within to firelighter content. J" the Head Barber. When they g(t that far they don't hire no taxi to call and taiu- it ml ... " ' e ytiui " me papers, I never was sued, but I bur kn..b The way tins is nowadays, tho tips on slow horses and the tips I don't get from customers. I may b, getting t. i Ork you got from mv f,...-u- T?! stocer, I hope not. though I always try . -.pop uui or tnem courts." "Wilfred It all thfc tim. ....i . .. said the Manicure iu Mad tQm money that he couldn't pay and he thinks ne win be a greater not if k. n.. .i.. same way Mister Burns did, but the old mere s lots of ruv mnu. k. aln t no General Grant. Well. I suppose Father said the same a you did. He said a poor settlement m, r - uan m, gooo lawsuit, and father ought to know." Advice to the Lovelorn By BEATRICE FAIRFAX, 1It Too TId Vonr Father? Dear Miss Fairfax: I am 11 y.ari om S5fBhe.pt Tcomptn,y w'h aroan SbSut 5 x months. I found that he was not the Snr.ifkTJn,n 1 W0U,I Ilke- so I did not S quamim My mon- w W neft tavi Yob MIkM Ask Her. ?alfgirpn.f fhe W KngMnVl1 this country, r hav. fnown her for five" years. She writes every month aSd she sends me presents. I would like to know lfhe re"y '0VM m nI what .Sow 1 fl0, B. D. She certainly cares something for you or she would not write. If you want to win her love, write her that you Jove ber, and atk her to marry yo? But don't do this if you intend, after winning her lovt, te tell her that "a dlf ferent religion" will prevent your roar-riage. Today Miss Held la shown In throo of her latest creation!-, all of which nro fully described In tho accompanying article. In addition to her descrip tion of tho dresses she tolls herwomen rcadcra what I ft most Important of all .How to preserve poise- and statoll ness so as to bring out all the heat qualities of a gown and figure. By ANNA HELD. (Heading "Anna Held's All Star Varlete Jubilee, Under Management of Jo), Cort.) (Copyright, 1H3, by International Nc Service The art ot dressing) Is not that sub ject dear to the heart of every daughter ot EveT Sometimes I think our mother Eve must have learned some effective draperies In fg leaves, and that her first efforts to be charming bear fruit In our desire today to be chic I The art of dressing! Are you not happy, serene, sure of yourself and your power when you know you look ydur best? But come, confess how often are you quite, quite sure that you look your beitT Shall I give you my rules? Shall I glvo you the benefit of my study ot the tricks of costuming yourself to tho very best advantage! As a French woman I take a natural interest In "le grand chic" In the Idea of being smart and dainty as well. As an actress I have had to study how to make the most of my every good point. As a woman, I shall gladly give my sta ters the benefit of all that I have learned. First, I shall give you a few rules and suggestions. Then from the general I shall proceed to the particular and draw a parallel and some suggestions from the clothes you see pictured here. Kvery woman should dress according to her height, complexion and figure. In order to do this, be sure that you have a careful Inventory of exactly what your height, complexion and figure are. Be fore going on your shopping tour, take one good look In your truthful minor. The mirror portrays facts; be sure that you do not deceive yourself about what you see thero. Know yourself and your clothes possibilities. If you are not sure ot your own taste and artistic ability, consult a few faithful friends, and never allow yourself to be flattered by the saleswoman who haa seen you for but a few minutes. "In a multi tude of counsel lies wisdom" that you. know. The tall woman must avoid long line of an exaggerated sort and stripes, even as the short one must refuse to wear large plaids. It you are in any way dif ferent from the average, don't empha sise that difference until it amounts to an abnormality, The texture and color of your clothes Should harmonise with your complexion. For Instance. If you have very high color you will of a surety not wear white. A vary red face above white garments looks grotesque Satan masquerading In the garb of an angel is the unpleasant suggestion of this combination. A pale X??'y&9KJMXHImBH jSbF HHBSsBarXBT Jr W JiMLakfleHtaBSHa arr XIW mmvmmmmmmMam " m i i mum Gowns. complexion is emphasised by dark ma terial. Now If your pallor Is your beauty and you want to bring out your dear white ness ot skin, wear dark clothes. But If you ar painfully pale, do not make your self look like a lean and hungry Cas - unr air. KJhakespeure plat it) by wearing dark and somber garments. Be simple, be neat, study harmony In colorJng-and make sure that your clothes fit you. "Kit" you le an Important word to emphasise. Have your clothes fit your flgurs and have them fitting tpr your figure and coloring Now, mesdames. behold spme lllustra- Our Atmosphere By GARRETT P. SERVISB. For thousands of years men have been content to breathe the air and think little about It. They were like fish In the water satisfied, and perhaps grateful, because the trans parent medium in which they were plunged kept them alive. Now, suddenly, science has dlscov that the air Is a vast mine of untold wealth which only needs to be worksd properly In order to furnish us with a great variety of substances that can be utilised In the arts and Industries of civilized life. In the first place, the atmosphere Is capable of furnishing enough nitrogen to fertilize all the arable soil ot the globe, and to double Its capacity of production, without sensibly feeling the loss. The air resting upon each ten acres of the earth's surface contains as much nitrogen aa is possessed by 7,000,000 tons of Chilean nitrates the amount that Europe has annually Imported In recent years, from the diminishing guango de posits of South America, In order to But the entire atmosphere covering the globe contains l.aoo,oa),ooo times as much nitrogen as that which floats over each ten acres of surface or, in other words. smart lltUo black ANNA HEIJ) h o regular eontrf&utor to ihit pagt, JItr itrits. "My own Utauty Stentt," appear once a wetk, Jio ylri wAo withti fo htighUn ondr rie her good l'ok$ can afford to rt( any ont of thu acritt. Hons or my ideas and theories! In tile center Is flgurp 1. 1 am wearing a auH that you can develop for the winter In supple satin brosdoloth, with an inset of biscuit-colored cloth at the bottom of tht skirt, for tiny undorsletfves and even for a waistcoat to give you greater warmth. Please notice the extremely long Hno of the surplice crossing. This long-V from shoulder to waist makes a woman look tall and svelt. The slope of the braid below tho hips gives further slenderness, and the fullness below the armholo and In the drapery conceals any surplus fat, Don't ever get the Idea that tight clothes will make yqu appear slender and youth ful. Tight clothes reveal-atid they gen erally reveal the stout woman with un flattering clearness. Flguro 2, on tho left. Is one of my pet evening gowns. If you do hot wish to go to th extreme expense of an elaborately beaded robe, yu may use my Ideno In Great Mine of Riches It Is Flllod With Nature'a Troaur's, Which Mankind Haa Only Just Bemin to Aupreoiato Is equivalent In fertilising power to twenty-four thousand mllllon-mllllon tons pf Chilean nitrates! This atmospherlo nitrogen not only pan be, but is being, transformed Into arti ficial nitrates which are beginning to be substituted, on a large scale, for the natural product, which is not sufficient In quantity for the growing nerds of the world's Increasing population. In Nor way, Hweden, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, France and Spain large Installa. tlons for tha transformation of atmos. pherto nitrogen Into fertilizers now exlnt. But to serve as a base for fertilizers s only one of the uses to which nitrogen taken direct from the air Is put. It Is also employed In the fabrication of ex plosives, of dyes, of photographla ma terials, of ammonia, ot electric lamp filaments, of artificial Indigo, of medi cines, and In many other ways. The second great constituent of the sir, pxygen, Is equally manifold In Its uses ylien separated from the atmosphere. It gives us ozone, one of the most powerful antiseptics known, which Is employed, for Instance, In purifying the drinking water pf great cities, and also In purifying and vitalizing tho air in confined places. In art and Industry 'oxygen plays so large a part that, before means had been Invented for readily obtaining It In large quantities from the air, lye advance could be made In some occupations whloh are now flourishing. But there are other things in the great aerial mine over our head that are like diamonds scattered among lodes of gold and silver It is only within the lust twenty years that we havo found out that the atmosphere contains, in addition to wad whlta Etrt driM, any eupple clinging material. Tht long, round train adds height! the drapery and tiny silt In front maka It aaay to walk In a oloseflttlng and clinging gown. The long V at the back of tha arown, will odd to the apparent length of your waist. The cap-shaped sleeve permits you to show your white shoulder without sacrificing; modesty, and finally tha tunic, with its flaMng line, will conceal hips that are slightly too largo. But this Una around the figure Is not for tha wphtan who muat avoid anything that will make her look, fat and dumpy. . And now for the smVrt UtUe black and whlto street gown oh the right nack and whlto are wonderful in clever com bination. Clear white 'gives a touch of youth, and black makes the slender all- houette. This gown is only for th tall, slender woman, as the white blouse and black skirt wilt cut oft too gra,t height The postillion back and the akrt uathtred about your knees will eonoeal analec The sleeve of chiffon cloth sqt in from slvauj. der to waist line are sptt and becoming. And now, mesdames, add to my plain, truthfulness a chat with your truthful mirror, "Which of my euggsstipps are tor yout Whloh must you fcypMt Know thyself, mademoiselle, and soon your ad miring world will not know you for you wll be transformed to your own greatest loveliness. J! oxygen, nitrogen, carboplo acid, ammonia and water vapor, five previously unknown gases, viz.: Argon, helium, neon, cryptop and xenon. These occur In email quanti ties, but they exhibit remarkable and often very useful properties. Helium appears to posstss valuable medicinal properties, but. at the present time, neon seems to be the one of these rare atmospheric gases which offers the greatest utility. It Is employed to pro duce various kinds of artificial light, If mercury vapor is mingled with th neon the color of the light Is blue. If nltrogon and carbonic anhydride form tha mixture with neon the illumination bursts Into a glow resembling sunlight, Carbonic anhydride alone Kjves a white light; If nitrogen Is mingled with It the color of the light, beepmts a rose-yellow, or pink; If a little ordinary air Is let In the hue changes to pure rose. With various mlxturps almoit any desired color of light may be obtained, and a group of Illuminated tubes may be made to resemble some of the clusters of man colored stars which astronomers have seen In the sky, The great reducing msohlne for the gaseous ores ot the atmosphere Is the apparatus employed to produce liquid air. With this the oxygen and nitrogen are easily separated, and by processes of Isolatlpn and distillation all the rare gases that have been named are ob (alned, In a pure state, from the liquefied air. The exploitation ot the Industrial riches of the air has only Just begun, but It has already gone far enough to justify the assertion of a French writer that it "will lead to a complete economical revo-lutlon," A Proprietorship? By VIRGINIA T. VAN DE WATER Perhaps the answer to the above ques tion would settle many a matter of mari tal misery. Are not our Ideas of mar riage often wrong from the startT Mn and women are taught from cmia- hood that. In marrying, a man gives him self to a woman and a woman gives her self to a man wholly and entirety, body and spirit. The Idea may be a beautiful one perhaps but Is It a livable one? Is not such a principle one of proprietor ship rather than of partnership And do any ot us enjoy giving what we are bound by law to KiveT I am not advocating lax marriage stand ards. Heaven forbid' Unless people are1 willing to forsake others and to cleave unto each other aa long as they both do live, they should eschew the wedded state. But In promising to live together In honor, to care for each other, to share their worldly goods-do they promise to relin quish all Individuality, to Part with the secrets of the 0ul, to have no reserves? If ko. they may as well make up their minds that each must lose all personality, all of the sweetpe of solitary com munion, all of the things which, though unseen, are eternal, and are aa rnucn tho divine rlsht of each person as Is "his own soul. There are things that are between man and his aod-ano. sucn things marrlago cannot glvo or take away. Yet such are the distorted views hld by some persons tjiat they believe that when a woman marries a man she must know all that ho knows, and do only (hat of which he approves. Some women have a notion that unless a husband loves that which the wife loves and approves, that which she approves, marriage cannot be a success. And, as man was not horn in pairs, but singly, sueh merging ot self in the person of another la contrary to na ture and can hardly b according to any law of the Creator, "I oould not be happy If I felt my wife kept any amotion or opinion from me," said a fatuous bridegroom. "I want to feel that wo are absolutely one." Ills- speech reminded me ef a remark made by a celebrated clergyman to a young man who was talking to htm of matters of faith and religion. "Vou see, Dr. Blank." said the young skeptic, "I simply will not believe any thing that I cannot understand and grasp , perfectly with my Intellect." t Then, air," retorted the dlvne, "your belief will be the most meager and re stricted of that of any man of my ac quaintance!" Surety, it one were capable of telling ot every opinion and emotion, one must' have few to tell I And, after all, why must the wife give an- account of herself to the man she loves? Why thus burden htm,, bore him anJ etultlfy herself? And, on the other hand, why must a man share all that he kpows with his wife? If marriage is ,a partnership, such ideas are a mistake. Tpey sayor of proprietorship, no ot partnership. "I show all my letters to John,' says ope woman', with self-righteous pride. "John ought to be ashamed to read themi" retorted her brother. "They were pot meant for him." Another wife says that ehe "could not forgive her husband If he went out to luncheon with a friend and did not tell fier." How little faith she must have in he man of her choice I Is there such harm in eating with a friend that one mutt confess it? If the husband wishes te eek of the fact, or it he mentions it M a matter of course well aad good. But If ha li trying to put through a deal with hli luncheon companion, and pre fer! not to talk of It until the matter is settled) or Indeed ever, why need he go to the trouble ot saying, "I met John Health downtown today, and, as I hope to do some business with him, I asked him to lunoh with me?" Could a sane woman resent reticence on a eupject of this kind? "What kept your husband In town to night?" a friend asked one wife. "Business' waa the reply. "Business In' the evening?" asked the oihr, surprised. "What kind ot busi ness could he be doing after dark? Surely his office Is closed at night" "I don't know," laughed the happy and trustful wife. "It Is his business, not mine, and I take it for granted he is quite capable of running It alone. He was before he married ma." When there is such confidence aa this, marriage means happiness. I know we all cay things against matrimony, and there is so much that may be said in truth that one who calls attention to defects In the hope that they may be 9orrectd Is, perhaps, doing humanity service. If It were not that the state Is capable of something as near perfection as Is possible In this life, tt would not be worth reforming. To those who enter marriage loving each other, with a trust and confidence that are above suspicion and Jealousy, and with the recognition of the fact that each Party to the contract is a human being with a right to his and her Individuality, there Is poeslblllty of a peace and Joy that all the cynics In the world cannot destroy. Why may not John keep his friend's secrets to himself, and why should Mary read her chum'e lettorp to John? Why must the husband account for every one of his waking hours, and why must the wife bore the usband by relating tp him each trifle that has come Into her day since he went to the office this morning? Moreover, may not John like ragtime, though Mary loves Wagner, arid still be devoted to Mary? And may not Mary enjoy bridge while John despises it, and yet be a faithful, dutiful wife to John? Why not regard matrimony In the right perspective and appreciate that the con liavlnr. and that a husband or' wife (a fldence that Is demanded Is not worth after all, a partner, not a proprietor? Drawn For Th B oouatry caatrifente tyelf Vt worn rr Hf r?Mer?. 1 (