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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 3, 1913)
MiJS UMAHA OUWmi OJCJC, 1VJ1A! gazine Page Copyright, 191S. by the Star Company. Great IJrltntn nights Itencrved. vfePcsi I! r UPS Pw Soto Problem of Keeping Cool in Gowns of Chiffon Trimmed With Fur LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establish ment is at Nob. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York. By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Luclle"). TJR In August? Most certainly. No mattor what tho weather Is. Fashion's decrees must be carried out. In a way Fashion is above the weather, just as It is above the law. I cannot say that 1 thoroughly approve of this odd tad, which is causing a mild sensation in ParlB and at the "Cures." Fur is necessarily a "Winter accessory. It harmonizes with the keen cold of December t and January, and does not harmonize with the torrid weather of midsummer. Dut there are times when Dame Fashion gives no thought to harmony, and this Is one joi those times. To thoso who love contrasts thero is something very satisfying in adding furs to a costume of filmy ohlffons or laces, in fact, fur bonds are usually put on only those transparent fabrics wrr . .... trtOTO tnat are caiiea tne X-Ray atuffs. lmag lne, if you please, a costume of white chiffon, an airy fairy nothing, with which one wears one pottl coat only, weighted down with fur! Doci this not sound very bizarre? One well knowi man who saw severa of these costumes a the Auteuil race said afterward tha he thought tho worn en wore their furs to keep their clothes down! Well, some of these gowns did look as though they would blow away if not anchored In some such manner. I had a sketch made of one of the most striking costumes that I saw at Auteuil, and I hope that it will convey to you some idea of the general run of costumes seen on that famous race course. Eccentric in color and design, but very effective. In this sketch tho long chiffon coat is banded with fox fur. Ugh! how warm it sounds! And it looked warm, too. The coat, as you see, has very severe lines, but oven chiffon lends itself to severe effects when properly handled. The very smart small hat . is very stunning with this coat But we In Paris are also wearing fur on our evening gowns. At least aome of us are. When 1 say we t really do not mean all of us, you know. J am sending you a-plcture of a charming evening costume trimmed with fur. It Is one of the very latest draped models. The underskirt Is meuve charmeuse, and the wonderful draped-over robe Is a delightful rose brocade. The bodice and the large -roses at the front of the skirt are of mauve chiffon. Tho neck and sleeves are edged with bands of brown fox fur. ' " OBB - IHLKlhlHBRIIH Rll jl """" Midsummer Costume of White Chiffon, Showing the Newest Sash Effect. Evening Costume of Rose and Mauve Brocade, Chiffon Bodice Trimmed with' Fox Fur. There are other ways to use the fur, ways that I am unabio to send pictures of, so you must be satis fied with my word pictures Tho new tunics of voile and chiffon are frequently edged at the lower hem with f ir of Bomo kind But It must be a fuzzy fur Moleskin and ermine aro all very well to place at the boms of the skirts, but tho tunics must havo tho fuzzy edge. Smart Afternoon Costume of Blue Crepe, Introducing the New Rever on Skirt At tho races 1 bare seen the mon dalnes wearing or rather carrying wldo flat stoles of mole, ormlno and fox. And perhaps before 1 write to you again I will see some of thoso sensation-loving women carrying muffs, But lot us hope, not And now let us turn our attention, to some really truly mldsummor gowns, and perhaps just looking at them will make us forget tho hot weather, Clothos have a tremendous psycho logical effect on us, 1 think. It we dress so as to look cool 1 am firmly convinced that we feel cool. When wo look at & woman awathod In furs we feel warm immediately When we look at a woman dressed In sheer white or pastel tint we immediately feel cool. This is why 1 always urge my American clients to follow tho example of those who live In India and dress for the cli mate. Is there not a suggestion of coolness In the two little white gowns you seo here? The one with tho opened parasol is so quaint and attractive. It is made In a novel fashion, It la white chiffon over white. The very new and unusual sash Is rose satin embroidered with rosea. The small bonnet-like hat and tho parasol further convey the thought of Summer breezes and coolness. , Tho second of these midsummer gowns Is mado of tho wide-moshed net that Is so fashionable just at present The underskirt is of white charmeuse and lace. You will notlco, 1 hopo, that although the fab ric is transparent, tho underskirt Is of stuff that veils tho figure. There is nothing to my mind more hideous than the so-called X-Ray kowdb. I like the X-Ray wmitc tmro Garden Party Gown of While Net Over White Charmeuse, Producing a Near Transparent Effect riciurctquc mi, .Jiiunuis the New Wide Streamer and Row Pompon. 1 bats, but the gpwna that re veal bo much of the figure are utterly vulgar for daytime wear. And,' frankly, they are barely posslblo at night un less one Is in ono'a own homo. Then, too, only a good figure can stand aucb franlo noes. It is not necessary to woaf more than one undorsklrt but that must be opaque. A, heavy weight of charmeuse or crepo do chine uood tor tha under robe satisfies all the conventions, to my mlad. Tha hat worn with this second gown, has a novel streamer end that is becom ing to a piquant beauty. And the shape for this hat la sioai excellent And now I do want to show you what I think la as Idea), llttlo house gown or one that can be worn trotting about with one's friends In the mornings. It is created in dnll blue erepe. Tho marvelously draped skirt has a turn-back rover lined with rose silk The charming girdle with the tasael Is of tho roso silk. The collar and cuffs are hand embroidered crepe. This is a costume that pleases me in each little detail, Just the one I should choose for the debutante this Fall. I wish that I might send you eome pictures of the new headdresses which are now being worn. Every thing that Milady puts on her head this Summer must strike tho note bizarre. ( One of the nowost of these new headdresses con slats of a wide, encircling bandeau of dull silver lace, with gatherings of very narrow and rather brighter silver galon to follow part of the design, while set a,t regular intervals on this shimmering background are stripes of little roses fashioned of pae yellow crepe do chlno and silver gauze, the leaves beings all ot Bllver In the very centre of the bandeau two very tall wings aro affixed by means of a diamond ornament their coloring being first the delicate yellow ot the rosea, though eventually it deepen Into flaming or ange Finally, strings of diamonds are so deeply fes tooned over tho ears that the final one touches the neck. Wheroforo I need hardly tell you that the price of this very pretty thing Is Just about what our grand mothers and many of our present-day girls, too, for the matter of that would have expected to pay for the whole of their evening dress attirol I have also just seen end liked a cap ot silver meshed lace which Is curved exactly like a ahell at either side, the protty suggestion being further cai rled out by tho dollcate sbell-plnk shading of the vel vet which forms a narrow bordering fold, which, Inci dentally, may montlon, keeps tho metallic lace from becoming entangled with the hair One ot the new chin straps Is a feature of this model no less than alx strings of pearls connecting the cap from ear to ear, but bringing no superfluous flesh into unbecom ing evidence.
