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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 6, 1913)
as- yyg--" V j' , . , , I I. I IIMII1- The Omaha Sumday ..Bee Magazine: Page , , -m . , r I Copyrlcht. 181. tr tb 13 tax Companjr. " Great BrlUla flights Reserved.' Modern Tendencies f Art as Applied Dress by- Lady Duff-and ' f ) . , "it bsbbbbbbbbbbbPjbbbb! .. . . '"hk." Leon Bskst's Conception of the Futurist Coitume for the Ultra-Modern 'Woman, Designed to Give Freedom " of Soul' as WeD as of Movement. , ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucife" . of London, and forcrrjost creator of fashions, in trie verM, writes each week the fashion article 'for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in KvUs far wel-drested women. C Lady Dwf -Gordon's Pm establishment brags her ml else te4ch with that centre of fashion. Lady Ds1-GgjWs American establishment at Nee. 37 al 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York. By La4y Ehiif-G anion ("Lncile"). pOt BAJCIT, SttlsieeP nad the Russian . tUSM kM tHf etahftfeloA (mi werii Mm Xusclan stoejgaer at ballet eos- eatered the proven that aftr fit 0 design t woman's esslsmt k m artistically imortaut to p.lnt a great Masons a. la ike ether days no artist, so painter C rid-wide refutation woutd have '4ar4 "ikHteead" to tie designing of fMfcieas, but to-day 'a taadar are x1aagd. sad so painter f sets -that he U "dwe&adlss" when be creates giMtame that compels attention at admiration from all the world. X ua delightad to be able to send yes three pictures of design's juai Made by the painter. Bach differs from t&a ether, although each 4s pen fast is its way. And at the same time I &IB cehding you my own eon ejrtleas of the Suisse idea. Naturally Bahst, above all others, twdentands hta own dnaportance in the irjt world, and he adopts & rather pleased patronage toward the very wsm fer when ha is now creat bug. Just what dersBe&t ia our ssoden life is reopeaslble for the freaept great it9pert&&ee of woman's wear I esua&M dee(d nUe to my eAttsSnetiOB. Perisafs K is the tre ado laerease la oar wealth, but thereweiw great fertaaes la other days. There et be seae seasaaUsBi la ewery srecA, mtatlng, jelse it would SMt b great By seasuallssa 1 do Mt aseaev the esaUsa of the first yahittags t Bakst, bat the merest $Ait emled by eeter 'Uat gives riehaeso . recvr the aaetere. INhet' tJeaery ie that eertsJa ehades f yailaw awt red eoavey the idea of 'tbluf tteeT4Wl$ li0 US 08 III 00 & wImb h 1rieh to portray selft jflMJ 4ljft8eVfte5Ja fi says that to convey this . tendency: is hta design would be vulgar, bat to convey it In color Is art, and true art is never vulgar or suggestive. Ia his paintings Bahst dyed his colors to match the soul of the char acter he portrayed, and in his ballet costumes ho did the same. For ln stance, his Cleopatra was a wonder ,ful, a gloriously daring conception of the great queen's character. Her voluptuousness, her passions, her uncertainties of temper .are all shown In her clothes. One feels that they are alive. With tremendous discrimination and the subtlest art this master Is doing this same thing in his fashion designs. When be decided to enter this new field he became imbued with the Idea thai to create the pen feet costume for woman he must build It on her most prominent chary acterlstlc Long and many were his discussions on this theory with me in my atelier, and finally be evolved the theory that the chief character Istic of the modern woman was her 'sport! ven ess," as we would say ia England, but which yotr tsf America would sal) "interest la sports." With "sportlvenBsV the character istic of modern woman and her great inclination te advance, Bakst based his new costumes os woman's desire for fresom treeijow of soul, as well as of movement. As he said one day to sae over the teacups when this idea was ailing his mind, "1 think; I ean best expiata my alms by saying that 1 wish "to express the springtime of the earth sartofially To me the springtime Is the futurist sesaoa of the year Nature at that aeasoa ts striving after the best Atee I wish for somethlag frash and uaeeavM- n Winn t im. w . . s : i - -i Lucae,,- Model Embodying Hei IcW' f ; the Futurist Costume, as -Influenced y," by the -rontpadour renod.. "lolante." a Second Conception of Bakst, SymbolixiBf he Sport ing Interests of the Modern Woman the design, it is of cours'e impossible for you to have the real colors. re produced. While this third figure appears attenuated when compared with the others, it is not so in real ity. It is the outcome of. the .rest lessness of tho modern woman. Woman, like the earth, ia at her most restless period at this' time. The second picture of my own ia a conception of the same - restless- , .nefis,. but again my conception, dif : fers from that of the artistv . Per haps -'-because I am a woman first' and van artist afterward, I firmly, be .' 11 eve that it takes a woman to un derstand a woman. Men may have wonderful theories as to our thoughts and' aspirations, Wonderful reasons for'our being what wo are, but only a woman really knpwe the eoul of! woman. Therefore I am sure that-my con ' captions of the modern woman will ', hK oiore pleasing, to woman than, , thosp.,of '.Monsieur Bakst, ,but who ' can deny, the glory and beauty of his AMi-fatH' .tional. The modem woman, you know, has both these qualities to a marked degree" And now, do you not agree with me that' he has achieved that for which he strove? in "IeU" he shows the ultra, mod ernity of woman. A freakish cos tame, you sayf Ah, not so. Every line, every bit of drapery has a meaning of Us own to Its creator Every shading of color has its mean iag. Uy own conception of this same Idea differs from that of Bakst but after all as you will see. the same thought is there. The same outline is suggested- 1 have made a greater eoaoesslen perhaps to the feellag that la everyday life we cannot be too extreme, that our clothes must after all be made so that we can wear them a ordinary occasions. But while I may make concessions as ts form and design I never do as to color I feel that my own oloj creations are superior ia all others, and never do I allow any oritietsa. Do 1 net spend my days, the hours of the night as well as those of the gay, ia this ever fascinating search for eolerf In this first-design I have $Oowe4 for the freedom of movement that Bakst deems so Important Tho fabric used is sv satis oharaeuse, and the shade is a rare and glorious blue that I produced in ay .own workshop, spending long Itours -ovar the dye pot' to achieve it The hat that I desire worn with this costume is plain, aftd. "has a wide brim. Tho only trimming Is a sach of blue dyed to match the garment Is there not beauty, and grace as well as usefulness is! this costumef But to return to Bakst "Phllo mele" is a costume that pltomizes the springtime of the earth and the reaehmg out Into the future to its creator, who says that he was in? spired by the period whea the race was young, whan civilisation was at its best. There is more than a sag geetics of the Bgyptlan in this cos tume, not only ia eolor, but in form. And It does convey the idea of tree- dare of movement to' a great degree, I think. In "lolaate- there a wonderful clarity of outline, and: eh. the wo. der of tha color' It ta my one re- 1 Jtis ' J l 2 BBBBBBSSSSSSSBBIBSeBSSSSsH ' V S IBWWIHBjssssselB ey -JjC " sssssssssssssssfll (hbbbcebibbbH ftBjBpj t ' . . grot that while yen are able te sea 'PhiioassJe," a Bakst, Cmtioa laWrag Woman's RestivesHM To-d. V. - -, J. . ?