The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
-
Copyrights ISIS, by the Star Company. Great Britain Rights Keervd.
rasols
-
The New Hands-in-'em
Gowns, the Ding-Dong
Parasol, the New
Little Sun Shades of
00
Years
Ago
"Tho New
Pocket"
Cottumo of
Dark Blue
Charmeuie.
The New
Hour Glatt
Skirt nnd
Odd Feather
Standard
on Hat.
t
The Bell
Sunshade of Heavy
Plain
Silk
Designed
to Wear
with
the
High
Trimmed
Hats.
T ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and
roremost creator ot fashions in the world, writes each week the
fashion article for this nrwinani-r rrinl!nT nil InM ! nptATMt
and best in styles for well-dressed women. '
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and
39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York City.
By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile")
fOCKETS? But why not? When
r will we women adopt this
eminently practical privilege
that has belonged to man for so
long? We want their rights, let us
take their privileges, and particular
ly pockets. There Is no reason why
wg should have our pockets placed
like patches on our gowns. How
ever, we may, have them Invisible,
but -useful, and this Is accomplished
I think In the picture of the hip
Docket gown that I am sending you
this week.
This little costume, as you can
boo.'Is very simple, but the lines are
excellent. It is created in a heavy
charmeuse. The shape of the skirt
suggests the hour glass and rlght
back of the embroidery on the hips
are the poikets. They will, be use
ful, as well as ornamental.
. Some of us may not care lor pock
ets, but where Is the woman who
does not thrill over the new sun
shades? The deep bell-shaped one
In plain silk is stunning. It is de
signed, of course, for the extremely
high trimmed hats of this season.
And what a contrast Is the dainty
little affairs all made of lace ruf
fles on a net foundation. This is to
be worn only with one of the very
small hats, for there is nothing
worse than a hat that appears larg
er than the parasol held over it
As you can see, the handles are
extremely long.
Why this sudden change in the
shapes of the sunshade? It is all
due to the hat trimmings, lot mo tell
you.
Have you a hat (and. of course,
you have!) with a "lightning con
ductor" style of trimming in the way
of a rigidly erect and aggressively
tall arrangement of aigrettes or os
trich feathers, flowers or ribbon and
if you havo ever been caught in the
rain when you were wearing it, and
tried (and failed) to hold an umbrella
at the right protective angle over
your headgear, then you will indeed
be truly thankful to know that a new
sunshadq has been specially devised
to save you from auy such temper
trying experiences and failures dur
ing the many sunshiny hours to
which in spite of many sad disap
pointments in tho past wo aro look
ing forward hopefully this Summer.
It Is really a most ingenious and
effective novelty, and, llko most suc
cessful things, is quite simple, only
you must mako up your mind to spe
cially reserve it for use with Just
those hats and those hatB only-
whlch have their very high trim
mings at one side or the back, and
provide yourself with another and
more ordinarily shaped sunshade for
those occasions when your headgear
distributes Its adornments rather
more evenly and moderately.
For this newest shield against tho
Bun.ls of the quaintest shape, one
side taking a very considerable up
ward slope V when it Is opened,
though when It is closed there Is no
apparent difference of outline. Tho
advantage is obvious as of course
the proud possessor of the now sun
Bhade Ib saved from the constant and
difficult manipulation of tho handle,
and the hat, feathers or flowers from
the frequent and damaging jars and
knocks which are the Inevitable re
sult of a moment's forgetfulness. It
Is all managed by a clever variation
of tho shaping and placing of tho
ribs, and inasmuch as there Is a
certain piquancy as well as a dis
tinct convenience and protectiveness
in the new shape, it is already and
eagerly being acquired by any num
ber of smart women who will make
the first sign of sunshine their ex
cuse to display their new possession
and proclaim their up-to-dateness.
And as if their shape were not
enough to make them distinctive,
some of the new models can further
boast of being covered in a new ma
terialnow, that is, for this particular
purpose and draped in a way which
is gracefully reminiscent of the latest
dress skirts.
Let me picture to you, therefore,
one such pretty novelty whose sloped
surface Is covered with passion-
The Small-Hat Sunshade of Net, N ever to Be Worn with a Large Hat
flower purple oropo do chine, tho soft
fabric being ovontually arranged in
festoons which hide all the points
of tho ribs, and aro further finished
off by a little flatly colled frill. At
intervals this frilled fulness is drawn
upward into a rOKette-llke knot and
then loft to hang in a long handkerchief-shaped
end, so you may Imagine
that tho resulting effect is very Boft
and decorative. And for the rest, it Is
nil lined with chiffon, Just a suRKestlon
paler in tope, and provided with an
enormously tall handlo of snakewood
topped with ivory and gold alto
gether a sunshade which would mako
Its owner pray for fine weather. And
by tho way, I must not forget to point
out to you that its shape not only
eases your wrist and protects your
hat, but also brings tho wholo of tho
sunshade into vlow in a way which
makes it worth your whilo to indulgo
in dainty details of this kind.
And whllo tho hats havo thus
changed tho shape of many of tho
sunshades tho fabric fashions in
dresses have had just as potent and
decorativo an influenco on others',
and so it is that for specially smart
functions and frocks there nro biiii
shades mado In cloth ot silver and
gold with boldly and beautifully bro
caded designs in shimmering satin.
Jib-
Manners Indoors and Outdoors By Mr?L EJ
IT IS desirable to be beautiful, but It Is
equally desirable to have pleasing Aid
cultivated manners. Madame Cavallerl
gave us last Sunday valuable Information
on the care and culture of the voice. To
day Mrs. Frank Learned discusses some es
sentials' of good manners.
This Is the second of a series of useful
and Interesting articles which Mrs. Learned
Is writing upon manners, good form, social
etiquette, the art of conversation and cognate
topics. She Is a member of New York and
Newport society, and Is a recognized author
ity on the subjects on which she writes.
By Mrs. FRANK LEARNED
JUST as tho well-drilled soldier is finer
than the raw recruit, so is the cultivated
person trained in observing each law
adopted in social life which distinguishes him
from the uncultivated. Correct attitudes In
standing, walking and sitting cannot be
learned without practise, "mere will be no
(race in standing If the body sinks back on
the heels, or the shoulders are stooping, or
the chest sinks in, or the chin is poked for
ward. Standing is merely an interrupted
Uep. To walk well there must be evenness
jf motion, with smooth, regular steps. There
ihould be no jerking, mincing steps, no long
itrldes. The foot is placed almost straight,
turned slightly outward. It is awkward to
turn the feet in and very bad form to spread
the feet out The arms should fall easily,
he elbows being near tho body. To swing
(ho arms Is not good form.
When sitting down the knees should be
ear together. The shoulders may lean
against the chair if the hips are well back.
hut it is more graceful to sit erect and bend
slightly forward from the waist. It s awk
ward to draw both feet back, and very ugly
to cross one knee over the other. It Is in
correct to drop suddenly into a chair or to
clutch the sides or arms of the chair when
rising from it. When rising from a chair one
foot is in advance and the other is kept well
back. If one rises quickly, holding the body
erect, straightening the knees, letting the
weight of the body fall on the foot In advance,
there will be grace and ease in the movement
and no desire to propel one's self out of the
chair by the assistances the hands.
A man should never stand with his hands
in nte pockets when talking to a lady.
Of course, every man knows he should re
move bis hat immediately on entering an
other person's house, but good manners also
require him to take it off on entering his own
house.
A lady may accompany to the door a lady
The "Debutante
llend." Noyt So I'os.
ular and In Such
nnd Taatc.
The Prn",WiT to
who la leaving after a call, if there Is no
servant at hand to open tho door, but sbo
may not leave other guests to do this. If tho
host is at home ho should accompany a lady
to the door or a man who is leaylng. A lady
never goes to tho hall or to the door with a
man, nor does she ever offer any assistance
in finding his hat, stick or overcoat Of
course, she never assists a man in putting on
his overcoat. In fact, all of theso belongings
are left in the hall by a man when entering
the house. A lady takes leave of a man who
is calling by shaking hands with him in the
drawing room and letting him depart without
other attentions.
There are certain essential things to re
member about behavior. It is extremely ruda
to yawn without making some effort to sup
press it or without concealing the mouth, to
whistle or hum, to make monotonous noises
with the hands or feet, to fidget about in a
chair, to pick up paper knives or other ar
ticles and play with them when talking, to
sit or stand opposite to a mirror and look
at one's self while talking, to whisper or hide
the mouth with the hand while speaking to
point at any onoi or anything, or to loungo
anywhere in the presence of guests.
Always when entering or leaving a room or
house a man allows a woman to precedo him.
He opens a door for her to pass. Ho does
not precede a woman when entering a churcji
or theatre, or any public place, unless thoro
Is a crowd and he can add to her convenience
by so doing. Ho may precedo her for this
reason In tho aislo of a theatre, but ho must
stand aside for her to pass first to a seat.
In a theatre or other place whore peoplo
have occasion to pass thoso who are seated
they should bog pardon for disturbing them,
passing with their faces toward them.
In any public placo if a man opens a door
for a lady or picks up & purse she has
dropped, or offers a seat in a public convey
ance, ho raises his hat and she acknowledges
the civility by a slight bow, without smiling-,
and mayfcay, "Thank you very much." Tula
ends tho matter and does not constitute any
sort or acquaintance.
When accompanying a lady It is usual for
a man to walk pn tho outside of tho street.
If with two ladlos, ho does the same, It Is
extremely provincial for a man to walk be
tween two women, and very bad form for a
man to take a woman by the arm or elbow, or
to help her up or down stairs or over a cross
ing unless she is old or infirm or there is some
sudden or special danger from which he must
protect her.
In tho street the strlok rulo Is to keep to
the right In passing. Other rules are not to
turn and look at any ono who has passed,
not to call to another person across the street,
not to stand talking to an acou
doorway of a shop or other public place,
preventing others from passing In or out, It
Is almost Inexcusable to brush against any
ono In passing, but it this accident happens
In a crowd, one should say, "I beg your par
don," or "Pardon me." A man lifts Bis hat
when making this apology to a woman. It Is
rude for three or four persons to walk abreast,
thus inconveniencing others who wish to
pass. It is not good manners to loiter near
hop windows or to look In the .windows for
more than a glance. One should walk quick
ly from place to place.
If a man wishes to speak to a lady whom ha
knows well enough to join her, he raises his
hat and turns and asks her permission to
walk with her In the direction In which she)
Is going. It is contrary to good manners to
stand talking in the streot. He is not obliged
to accompany her to her destination, but If
ho leaves her he raises his hat It he walks
homo wltn her, be waits until shs Is admitted
before leaving her.
In a street car well-bred people avoid
crowding or pushing against others. They
do not sit sldewlse or take up more than
their share of space. A man does not carry
a lighted cigar into a public conveyance ex
cept In a part reserved for smokers. If ho
should bo standing on a crowded platform
he gets off the steps when a lady is about to
leave the
!
v
