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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (May 4, 1913)
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Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
Copyright, lilt, by tb Bt- Computus Oraat Britain Right Reserve.
A New Photograph of Lady Duff-Gordon Showing
Her Latest "Barbaric" Creation for Herself.
don, and foremott creator
of fashions in the world,
mites each week the fashion article for this
newspaper, presenting all that is newest and
best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment
brings her into close touch with that centre of
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment
is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh
street, New York City,
By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Luclle")
-pHB, very thing that makes we- The womsa who kills
I man-bo great is her Bavagory.
I never Jolaed la the chorus
against Kipling whea he wrote that
charming little poem about the
lemale of the species. It was
quite true and I tttnsght that eretr
fotelligeat womaa ought te ; hare
gloried la it Nor do I feel ofmiM
when some clever maa tells b 5iX? SZJ u V 5
we are of the backward set,' ffi? tenS.iTar 89616
Primitives. Of eonr, w- r. tf, ti &rUat P your
primitive to have chlldrea, primitive
to aurse them, primitive to glerify
the hoarthflro and to sacrifice eur
selves to guard It
It is Indeed the savage ia us that
Bakes us great that gives us the
courage tq bo the mothers of mesu
It ia not a reproach it is a very
great tribute to ho callod bo.
I believe la the primitive and I
do not think a woman ought to fight
against the savage that is la her.
Bhe ought not, of course, let it- de
stroy her manners, but she ought
to foBter It aad keep It alive as the
soil from which the more sophisti
cated flowers of her soul spring.
HAVEN'T hit patience with
people who can't make, allow-
aneel for aftrldnt -.I it..
Tin. "If you have time to ltitan I'll
teU you of a cut.
-Mother thought tt would bo nice
So invito Mr, minulitr tor a little
ide the other afternoon, fine Is that
fashionably dressed woman -with the
slightly patronizing- air whom you
have seen at the Woman' Club. Bhe
Is rather larae, so we left Johnny
at home in order to have plenty of
"Well, everything went beautifully
until we came to Corey's hllL ifa
a steep grade, and we were trying
to make It on the high. We had
llmost reached the top when the
worst happened, you understand. We
tilled our engine.
"The machine stopped, then began
to back elowly down the hill. Our
rucst gave a cry of alarm. Papa
spplled the emergency brakes, but
because of the grade they didn't hold.
"The car began to descend more
rapidly. There are deep ditches at
(be aides of the road. Oar guest gave
more cries Judicative 0f extreme
'J 1? ometltnl' she commanded.
"'What .hall I dor asked papa,
" lwa and drop
'"2Jinchor' UMetlng loraa one.
Tho car continued to back up or
town rapidly. The next thlngWe
knew our guest had the door open
ind had Jumped!
JPWJS kn?w D0W. thr wake
wm v. wuiuari igr fireitlnv nrr
wlthla her what Is she the blood
less, the faddist, the woman who will
toot have children, who cannot enjoy,
the soxlesa thing that does not know
what life taf
'Taia lisf a .queer fashion article you
say. Well,' "why should I write each
week of the cloth you. express your-
Aad frosa Use to time I asa roInsr
to write a fashion article about the
soul. If you understand, you will
know how to clothe yourself more
harmoniously, more artlntlcally.
Tor that is, after all, what clothes
aro for. If I thought that dresses
were anything olso I would at onco
abandon ranking them. and. go .lrJm
mediately for primitive fashions la
deed evon as far back as those of
Wotfior Eve before the fall.
The love of color is savage. So
Is tho ove of ornamentation. So
is tho lore of all beautiful, glowing,
picturesque things. Nature express
es herself in color, In ornamenta
tion, in beautiful glowing things.
Woman was first to see this savage
'woman. She was first to know color
aad to wear it; first to recognize
that her woaderful body aad the
soul that animates it ceald aad
eught to be expressed la eutwa.nl
things. Hence fashion, whkh, whea
It la true, is oaly the sysaBoHsatloa
of soul, of emotloa, of the body that
Is the vehicle for both.
Refine the savage out of as aad
what will you bare? Every woman
In the same uniform, her hair cut
Just bo,' walking Just bo, thinking
Just so, looking Just so and every one
alike.. Oh, the deadly monotony of
Ufa when the savage Is killed wlth
la us foroverl
And that Is why I say to women
do not be afraid of your savage
tastes. Do not fight them not too
much. It Is savage to love, savage
to hate, savage to mate to bear chil
dren and to roar thorn and to fight
for them. Woman doos it because
she is savage and I thank whatovor
gods there bo that I am savage
end have beon in every successive
birth that has brought mo ngala into
this wonderful world.
In the fashions of to-day womaa
has cast off tho foolish conventions
of centuries and onco more dares to
express the savagery that 1b in her.
By doing so she is more attractive,
more true to herself than she has
boon for centuries. This Is tho
Bocrot of tho dresBos which reflect
the Oriental, the barbaric and which
characterize tho mode of tho
In point I show you a dress I have
designed for Miss Violet Van
brougb, that very great English ac
tress. It Is sumptuous, savage and
sensational and It la, I think, beau
tltu), It la of orchid chiffons, elab
orately embroidered with golden
grapes. Tho "double skirt" shows
the odd "up-In-frouf etfoct, which
is of the most chic The two parts
of the skirt are finished In orchid
satin In throe inch Bands. Worn
NYONBV who has curiosity enonrh to ex
amine the ekln under a microscope will
see that It Is covered -with an Inflntf
number of minute holes or pores, through which
it performs Its functions. It, is really one of
our most Important organs.
A momentIt you think that what I am going
to tell you to-day is merely elemental physi
ology, I beg you not to pass the article by for
that reason. If I deal la elemental things In the
boglnnlng it is only so that every one may un
derstand; Aad, after all, as I once told a very beautiful
Roman friend, tho true secret of beauty lies
entirely In the thorough understanding of fun
damentals. And so to continue. The skin extends over
the surface of the entire body. It is very fine,
but has groat powers of resistance, for It Is the
Intermediary between our body and all other
The skin differs from the mucous membranes
in that they are always wet while the skin Is
relatively dry, and Us functions are almost In
visible, The most Important function of the skin Is
exhalation, which Is accomplished by the exhal
ing vessels, and allows the body to free Itself
backwardf weiL c5 ?r fr" OI certain residues of food and waste products.
?oCairth.rKn?0fV..,r.Vec. "Afferent from perspiration it
trlfugat force or something "ok dmI 8elf wb,ch Tller estimates at from one to
4 uor, ana ene eeemed to . . i""'" aul uau tu iweaiy-iour flours.
Urn a somersault or two in the air AIi0 tne'a BrQ In the thickness of the skin
ro"ntl: certain small glands, called cutaneous elands.
iur, .ct- "jo waa a eight A k ,- :'... ?,IZ... rr.V." .t . .
My Secrets of Beauty--8?, me- Lin Cavaiieri
r. oo. . , ZT . the Most Famous Living Beauty.
4 xoJoeauiy s wazethe SkinIts Care
. II . uh. V a rl ...I.. I . .
4teBed in. .fience to our apologia 18 J"8t ?8 rel any other as notable experl
md solicitous mquirjea, then she aid aots have proved. A person plunged Into
ur ?o0"mery M'0M tor JSS"? 1x1 hahour. through tho
Finally, tho third funeUon of the skin Is Its
tactile sensibility. In this respect It Is most
vaiuaoia in action toward othor life. Tt
through this power that we perceive heat and
I hope you have read this, because it points
the moral that we can not be too careful about
the skin, nor should we protect It too much.
Besides, It Is Indispensable that the Bkln should
be in a good condition and do Its work normally,
for I have 'been told by a certain great French
physician that If a person were to cover only a
third of the body with varnish, she would fall
111 at once, and soon die.
It has also been proved that the skin relieves
some of the Internal organs from a part of their
work, and If It does not work properly they are
Finally, when the skin performs Its functions
freely It gives the body beauty and freshness.
It Is like a glase of delicate color through which
life appears and seems to spread. And that Is
why I call the skin the glase of beauty.
Our first step in our search for beauty must,
therefore, be through attention to the functions
of our Bkln and now you see why I have been
bo explicit In my description of that organ.
This thorough attention merely consists In free
ing It regularly and frequently from everything
that may obstruct the pores and by not mal
treating It any way.
Beauty of the skin Is the immediate conse
quence of health of the skin. The skin Is beau
tiful when It Is fine, soft fresh and tinged with
color. Tho epidermis, which is the superficial
tissue, Bhould be transparent This transpar
ency Is formed and renewed by a kind of var
nish, comparable to wax. which Is secreted by
the Bobaceous glands. It Is at the same time
a glaze and a protection. The skin is beautiful
la proportion to the normal action of these
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The "Savage" Hat
That Reminds Lady
Gordon of n Vi
over this, much la the manner of a
"Court Cape," is a gorgeous robe
of gold and orchid brocaded satin.
There Is a savagory about the whole
costume that Is carried out ia the
three enormous plumes of the-head-1
dross. ' V-
I am proud of this dress. -,It is
so expressive. And It Is truthful;
truthful as nature hersolf.
Note, too, tho hat In tho smaller
picture. It is not mine, but I like
it. It reminds me of a headdress
worn by some savage chieftainess at
a moment when she was urging oa
her hosts to attack her enemies. It
Is ornamental and It reveals. It has
strength. It Is only, strictly sneak-
ing, a tiara of white feathers set In
a bed of flame colored mallne. But I
how much more than that is the 4
spirit It typifieB.
What 1b the Instinct that tolls us
that a touch of this color here and
a touch of thnt there Is the proper
thing to bring out the personality?
Exactly the same Instinct that made
our savago mothers put a shell of
thlB color here and a feather of that
there. They were right and we are
right Man hasn't the vision hence
his painfully uninteresting and
llmltod costume. I
Keep your savage tastes. There
Is more danger In loosing them than
were is m falling victim to the peril
of exaggerating them.
"Savage" Dress Designed
by Lady Duff-Gordon for
vioiet Vaabrough, the
tamoua English Actresa.
Most Famous Living
In thORfl wfcnaa 1tf J. -.j . .l -j
of greatest beauty is -Summer, the time whea
heat makes the exhalations most active.
Oa the contrary, persons who are more ac-
M y161.' Bklns .la moat beautiful condi
tion in tho Spring and Autumn, and oven In Win
ter, for they help the pores work by their bodily
muwij. iu ouminer me sKinB or these persons
mo wo uigmy cotorea. Tney must be all
more careful In what I call the hygiene
good taste. It is not good taste to have
highly colored Bkln.
Suoclal care must hA taVan in nri.i..
cold makes the production of this wax difficult
ano dry skins are often the result of lack of
proper care at this season of the year,
Every woman ought to know very exactly the
nature of her Bkln. Thero are two kinds of
skins; dry and fatty.
It is very plain that the treatments suggested
for one are harmful to the other kind; so care
must be exercised to use only those which are
applicable to the special type Ja hand.
To succeed, food and tho general mode of life
must be appropriate to the kind of skin you
have. External applications are of 7alu but
the organio importance is such that it will not
assume its proper condition unless the rules
of hygiene generally are observed.
Generally speaking, dry skins require stimu
lation. You must therefore, avoid all astringent
products, which close the pores. Avoid using
cold water, lemon, tea. and alum. On the con
trary, you may uae with success certain sensible
Dryness Js also to be combated by covering
the exposed parts of tho body, such as the
face and hands, with lanolln-cold-creams, Spread
the cream with a damp cloth, let It stand for
ten minutes, wipe off carefully and powder with
starch. Here Is the prescription for a cold cream
very efficacious in treating- the drr skin;
OH of Sweet Almonds, 60 grammes.
Cocoa Butter, 60 grammes.
Salicylic Acid, 2 grammes.
Dry skins are often made worse by the use of
rough soap or alcoholized toilet waters. I ad
vise the use of bran-wator, marshmallow water
and neutral glycerine. Hero Is an excellent
recipe for toilet water to be applied to dry
Elder Flowers, 60 grammes.
Marshmallow Flowers, CO grammes. .
l rlmrose Blossoms, 60 grammes.
Two Orris Bulbs.
Boll all together for ten minutes in s
qunrt of water and strain.
Fatty skins may take astringonts and absor
bent powders well In moderation. They must
be treated by a method precisely the opposite of
that for dry Bklns. Alcohol, alum, lemon, borax
eggs are used.
Decoctions of flowers of lavender, rose petals,
tea leaves are also useful. Hero Is a recipe for
an excellent lotion which may be used Bowral
tlmea each day. ,
Water, 1 quart
Rose Petals, 1 handful.
Primrose Blossoms, 1 handful.
Snake Boot, 25 grammes.
Boil for 15 minutes and strain.
To close up open pores douche the skin fre
quently with cold water. This cream may also
be used for fatty skins: 7
Rose Water, 100 grammes.
w.,ar mL Bn,b8' 20 grammes,
hlte Wax. 80 grammes.
Tincture of Benxoln, 10 grammes.
.LraiTe.r,,e'1 A,nm 0 grammes.
The following lotion should be applied morn
ing and evening: "
Distilled Water, 250 grammes.
B carbonate of Soda, 1 gramme.
Oil ef Violet, g dron