THE SEMI-MONTHLY MAGAZINE SECTION
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SPIU N ANt) SUMMER FASHIONS J3
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ESSENTIALS IN
CLOTH. COLOR
AND CUT
HINTS ON
HATS, HABERDASHER
AND SHOES
OME ONE HAS SAID of Windsor Castle that every pebble on
the gravel walks looks as if it had been weighed, measured and
separately placed, lien used to dress with just such finical
precision, until fashion turned a somersault, and the "care
fully careless" or "carelessly careful" period whichever you
choose to call it dawned in dress. Today, curves have
replaced cornel's, anil son, give-and-take laurics nave sup
planted the hard, smooth-finished sort. Today, stiffness and angularity are
frowned upon. Instead of the "just-stepped-ont-of-a-bandbox" air in morning
and business clothes one goes in for the "just-ran-up-from-the-country" air
expressed by the softest of fabrics tailored in the softest way and set off with
hats, collars, cravats, shirts and boots chosen to emphasize the free-and-easy
"lounginess" of present-day style.
Americans and Englishmen dress very much alike. Indeed, many of our
extreme fashions cross from London; for there is no blinking the fact that, in
men's dress, the capital
of England is the capi
tal of the world, just
as Paris is the way
blazer in the "ultra"
styles for women, 'flic
line of demarcation be
tween American fash
ions and English is that
we hold fast to fit, while
they hold out for drape.
'English clothes are nar
rower and "mnssier"
than American clothes,
often drolly suggesting
that they were cut for
the wearer's "little
brother." The best
dressed A m e r i c a n
doesn't slavishly adopt
English modes he
adapts, suiting them to
his physique and per
sonality. While the
fashions for Spring
follow English stand
ards in cut, this ten
dency is only general.
The American, unlike
the Englishman, is not
content to bo a type,
bul Mrivcs to be a unit,
and achieve intense
individuality in his
manner of dress, rather
than bo n colorless
cipher.
THE FASHION
ABLE spring and
summer fabrics for sack
suits arc soft-finished,
bright-hued worsteds,
flannels, cheviots and
the like in blues, grays,
slates, greens, black-and-whites,
browns and
"mixes" of these color
ings. Green is tho nov
elty color of tho season,
but it is too daring to
commend itself to the
generality of men. Brown still clings, but having been done to death by
excessive popularity, it has dropped behind. Blue and gray arc familiar
friends, from tho voguo of which the lapse of seasons does not seem to detract.
Black-and-white that is white stripes upon a black ground is a color
motif that survives every whim and winding of fashion and never "goes out."
Among patterns, stripes are foremost, as usual, hut there- is a well-defined
leaning toward small plaids and checks. With sack suits trousers arc prefer
ably worn turned up. Tho coat lapels roll back softly when unfastened; tho
shoulders are close-clipped and tho sleeves are narrow and taper toward the
wrist. Two to four buttons are correct. Of course, plain colorings are quite
as correct as ever. licau Nash.
The cutaway tuit for the dreity man
w
The deep-point, open
paced collar, and
fedora hat
IT11 THE morning shirt one wears a cutaway
front double-fold collar (having rounded or
pointed corners) and a "sailor's knot" four-in-hand
or Hat or knitted silk. The vividly
striped and cross-barred "knits" arc in tiptop
form. Informal or lounge shirts usually have
soft, doublo cuffs and unstarched bosoms,
plain or pleated.
What the American calls a "derby" and tho Londoner
calls a "bowler" is the favored hat to accompany lounge or
sack suits, though soft crush cloth hats and felt hats arc
quite allowable.
Shoes are made with broad, flat heels on what is called a
"straight last." The toes slightly taper. Black calfskin or
tan russet, high or lowcut and always laced, are fashionable.
The illustrations give a clear idea of tho details of correct
afternoon and evening dress.
Afternoon dress for spring does not differ from afternoon
dress for winter, except that ono chooses materials of lighter weight. Tho braid
bound cutaway instead of tho frock coat is still favored by tho younger sot. Silk
hats arc yet llatlish-brimmed and longer walking sticks are carried.
Evening dress for spring brings no changes either. Both the swallowtail and
the Tuxedo nrc still cut to be tight-fitting and "waisty" and to mako the wearer
seem slender and well-knit.
Four-in-hands are not flattened against the shirt, but tho knot is drawn for
ward, so as to look soft and unstiltcd. Often, a snmll gold safety pin, hidden
under the waistcoat, is
used to raise the upper
apron of tho four-in-hand
and keep it from
pulling taut.
Some spring derbies
are adorned with a sidc
bucklo on the silk rib
bon. Others have the
bow in tho back, like
that seen on soft hats.
Collars arc not only
made of plain white
linen, but of striped
madras and white pique.
Some have tiny colored
figures upon n white
ground to match the
pattern of scarf or
shirt.
ANEW SHIRT is
cut with shirt and
drawers in one piece.
Deep-point collars that
o v o r 1 a p a high-cut
waistcoat arc favorites
of college youth and
their followers.
A novel buttoned boot
has bottoms of patent
leather and uppers of
gray box-cloth. A strip
of patent leather ex
tends all the way up tho
.instep to the top.
The belted Mackinaw
jacket, made of rough
isli tufted wool, is much
worn for the sports, tho
country, camping and
tramping. It unites the
least weight with tho
most warmth.
Leather thongs arc
preferred to silk laces
on both calfskin and rus
set boots, ns they look
more rough-and-rugged.
Ikait Nash. This evening uit U "correct" In every detail