STYLE
WW ANNUAL
THE TR.END O f FASHION
i M a o i i
EOGY BEAK : March 1T 19K!-
Are ou nut coining to Paris this season? Yon
iii'UT write of it, but only ask that 1 tell you what
the ruHlttricres are showing for spring and sum-
liii-r wearing. Rest assured 1 can tell you that,
for I am interestingly afllicled witli a fashionable
aunt, hedged about by your clothes-loving compatriots, and
withal endowed with an inquisitive disposition. What
greater qualifications could J have, ma chcrief You, 1
know, have not the illusion shared by many of your coun
trywomen that all Paris is chic, and that to learn the latest
word of fashion one has only to walk out upon the street.
How many trusting souls have borne great disappointment
on account of this strangely prevailing impression. All
l'aris
say.
girls ;
bears
seek.
is gay! l es, with their best loot forward, as you
There is a saucy smartness about the very errand
but it is a piquancy that you would disdain, for it
none of the studied elegance that vou Americans
You are well aware how closely guarded the sartorial
secrets are and how we wait upon the whim of the tyrants
of the rue de la I'aix. It is my grand-aunt who opens the
gates for me. Picture to yourself, Marianne de Lourcy
seated beside her austere auntship, whirling through the
Hois de Moulogne en route to a private view of creations
at the liaison Mulloz! t'an you imagine the air with which
1 cross the Irolloir, lackeys touching caps, and doors open
ing at our bidding, to he ushered into the shop of this new
and ery important designer? It is said that lie. ranks with
Paul Poirct and surpasses almost all of the others. To me
they are all wonderful, and a day spent in their ateliers is
utterly fascinating and bewildering. Drccoll, ("allot, Soeurs,
Worth, Paquin, and Rcboiix are all names to conjure with.
T'1IK painted mannequins have displayed to us walk
1 ing to and fro with trailing indolence f . 'vn after
gown ranging Jrom ilelicious
simplicity to elaborate dig
nity, and all. or nearly all (I
will except the freakish things
produced for the edification
of the unwary American
buyer) all were equally de
lightful. There were tailor
mades chielly in the form
of liussiau blouses, with deep
kimoua sleeves or large arm
holes, low on tho shoulder. It
is evident that we will wear
street dresses of this type this
spring and summer, rather
than the coat suits to which
we are accustomed. Do I hear
you say that Paris sets the
seal of approval upon them
because the art of the strictly
tailored suit belongs not to
her but to you Americans.'
However, it is ijrmule chir,
and that is sullicieiit, though
its practical possibilities seem
to argue in its favor. Is it
not that blouse and coat seem
very burdensome in the warm
days of spring, ami think of
the simplicity of dressing for
tho street in a frock of this
style?
I saw, nevertheless, not a
few tailored suits, nearly all
of them displaying a cut
away coat very short in the
front and varying in length
in the back. The skirls are
draped or tunic-fashioned,
and those that accompany the
Russian blfcuse are shaped in
two itniji'K. Redfern told us
that all skirts will be draped
ADVANCE
NOTES
FROM PARIS
121
V
ft
Mil
i p.
.
Mm Vjk'fc
few
mm
and continue to fit snugly
oer the hips, but that
they will be wider at the
bottom to allow more free
dom of motion. 1, myself,
can not yet see the change
in width, though slashing
is so much in vogue that
one accepts as correct.
DRKCOLL and almost
all of the other houses
are showing skirts of e
dark color and bodices of a
different shade and mater
ial, with tiny bolero coats
and short sleeves. Where
the sleeve is long, the ma
terial of the skirt is repeal
ed in the lower part or
deep cuff, making the entire
sleeve seem all in one with
the bolero. For afternoon
wear, a coat and skirl cos
tume is seen evolved of
different fabrics such as
satin brocade and soft
draping cloth. The gowns
are simple, ma rhcrir, but
what a word that is to mis
lead! Simple indeed! Put
such materials, such soft
heaviness, such strange
combinations! Thick piled
stripes are on sheer chif
fon grounds and borders
of charge embroidered de
(Conllnued on Page IS)
CETTINC
READY FOR THE
SPRINC DRESSMAKER
IUIS IS just exactly the time to be overhaulim
,our wardrobe. With what intense relief you will
plan to discard the winter suits and gowns that
have grown so irksome of late. If you soon pack
them carefully away, you will ho'nslonished in
the fall to find that a good airini: and a messim'
will make them seem quite fit and welcome. It may ho that
you believe in wearing a serviceable medium weight suit
through the entire year, with changes in blouses, and a trig
little hat to conform to the season. In that case, furs and
a pretty silk vest, with a heavy tourist coat in reserve for
the, exceptionally cold day. will' carry you along nicely until
spring. An additional pressing from' the hands of a good
tailor, or possibly a dry cleaning, with the purchase of
fluffy white things for the throat, worn with your new
walking hat and fresh gloves and footwear, will gi've you as
jaunty a feeling as if your whole outfit was as new as the
budding leaves in the park.
If you are buying a suit this spring, an early selection
will he well worth your while. Fashion decrees that the
coat of a suit must always be worn while on the street;
therefore, if your suit is (o serve you through the summer
until the early fall, see that it is light weight and cool
appearing. The shops show most attractive two-toned suit
ings, from the handsome broehc effects to the simple whip
cord. That decided upon, you will be free to plan your
blouses, your tub frock, and a-gown or two, which, pos
sibly, you will make with the assistance of the lillle home
dressmaker or seamstress you are accustomed to hav
about this time of the year.
THIRST, you want a blouse to match your spring street
suit, for it is more than likely the one you have, been
wearing all winter is sliglillv worn and not mute lresli
enough to last much longer.
ELM
in
l'n less you have dlic leisure to
search for a perfect match in
color, and just the right thing
in style, would n't it be well
to send a raveling or a liny
sample of your suit cloth to
the shops to match? Chiffon
cloth, channelise satin, bro
cade, or crepe do chine all
make delightful little blouses!
If your suit is ditllcull to
match -a subtle color thai -seems
to have no counterpart
in silk material the nearest
shade you can obtain in chif
fon clolh laid over white, pale
lint, or some quaintly ilow
ered silk, may give you ex
actly I he right result. A bit
of shadow lace or plain net,
possihl.v some rulUing, or Ori
ental embroidery, buttons
covered with the material
chosen, and a few yards of
cording besides the spool silk
and notions necessary, and
you have the makings within
oiir bauds. For morning
wear, a blouse might be made
severely plain of heavy silk
or crepe de chine accordion
pleated and relieved only by
one of tho new flaring slocks.
This waist could he changed
to suil occasions by tho pur
chase of more or less elab
orate neckwear and sleeve ruf
lling. The latest models
shown are a host in them
selves, and, when added to a
simple blouse of rich mate
rial, finish it completely.
Now, isn't there a dark
silk I' rock It ft I'i'iiiu your w in
ICuntlntii il on Paqc II )