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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 16, 1913)
Ihe Omaha ip 'mmrm i Lady The Laced Slipper That Is the Present Craze in Paris. an extreme of fashion, but skirts always show a little ankle; otherwise one Is not considered "chic." The heels of shoes, both for the afternoon and evening, are seen studded with the Jewels the wearer has on her fingers and In her ears. This Is an extremely pretty Idea, especially or evening wear. For the daytime heels of patent leather shoes arc made of the same material as th ecoat and skirt. This Is exceedingly smart. LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and bet in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York. By LADY DUFF-GORDON ("Lucile") I WANT to tell you this week about some very unusual gowns I have created for that most fascinating actress, Monna Delza, "Love's Shadow at Versailles," My New "Thought" Costume for Mademoiselle Delia. whose beauty has set all Paris aflame. Truly it Is a delight o create costumes for her. Hue is such a bewitching creature, all grace and animation. Naturally, with one so. graceful and so quick mentally It was my opportunity to creato some of my "Now Thought" costumes, and never have 1 taken greater delight than in designing several that I will tell you of. Aud what are my "New Thought gowns? Gladly will I explain, for I think that I am absolutely right in thlB evolution, or perhaps it may develop into a revolution. I bellovo that a costume to be perfect should express some great thought possessed by the wearer, and Interpreted by the designer. To bo strikingly Individual in her gowning every woman must wear her thoughts on her figure. This sounds very odd, but let me tell you Just what I mean. Monna Delza came to me and said "Make me some of your delightful gowns, somo that will be different from everyone's else." "Indeed that will be very simple." I replied, "If your thoughts are dif ferent." "My thoughts? queried the beau ty, "and what do they have to do with my new gowns?" m M ; ;il:lJUUHm J WJ KVl vU Of LUUll 1 Headdress with Happiness, and Duff- Gordon's Un Right, New Costume to -the -Minute Fashion Cable From Paris. with the Huge Picture Hat of the Latest Shape. Paris, Feb. 15. The sXIrts of morning suits are generally draped either up to the side or back and .have been slit right ud to the knee. This Is, of course, "1 want to express Borne of your though'ts In the gowns that I hopo to cre ate for you. Tell me of what 54 New "Thought" Costume, Expressing Pride, Created in Taffeta5 with My Now , Lucile Pannier. are you thinking at this moment? "Ah, I am thinking of a beautiful Spring evening that I Bpent in tho gardens of Versailles. Tho sun was setting und the lacy green leaves cast wonderful purple shadows on the green lawns and tho birds were singing ever so Bwoetly. I was with a man whom I adored." "Wonderful, wonderful," I ex claimed, "You havo caught my Idea exactly, I will express that thought for you in a coBtume." And it was thus that I was in spired to design the gown Bhown in the lower left hand picture. ' Love's Shadow at Versailles" I call this coBtumo and tho charming beauty was overwhelmed with delight when she saw It. Imagine a soft dull green satin so supple that It clingB lovingly to tho figure so heavily that it falls In graceful linos almost without drap ing. Such a fabric I chose for the under robe for Monna'a gown. It hung free from the high waist line as I tried it on. Then I carelessly draped In the back just at tho knees. This drapery cast just tho purple shadow on the skirt that tho sun cast on the lawns. Over this I placed a knee length tunic of pale golden net embroidery, with delicate amythests and Hat ecqulns of a green that matched the under robe. Tho girdle was a soft band of satin of tho shade of yellow that one sees at sunset lu the gardens of Versailles and al most nowhere else. Such a gown worn by such a beauty as Monna Delza not only expresses her thoughts but must Inspire thoughts in others Sunday Bee Copyright; 101H, by Pearls Expressing on the Extreme Garden Party thoughts of love aud happiness. It is a Joy to create those "New Thought" fashion; there aro times when Badness must bo expressed and even tragedy, but if I succeed In expressing the thought then I am happy. In tho largo head I am showing you how I expressed tho thought of happlnosB, of pleasures to come. With the hair dressed so as to show its full glory. I then draped tho Btrands of pearls so as to Bhow their beauty but not hldo tho hair I trust that you havo grasped my now fashion philosophy. I have always attempted to Instil all my designs with tho personality of tho wearer. Never, never could I gown all my clients from ono general model never could I creato on a wholesale scale; but now that I am creating the "New Thought" gown I feel that I am near absolute per fection. Hut before closing 1 must draw your attention to a fad that has gripped Paris. All the mondaines are wearing their high-heeled slip pers, even those for the street, laced around the ankle. For yea'j we have had our boudoir sllppors laced in this fashion, but this change Ib new and startling. I like Mt, however. And, too, I want to mention a new picture hat that may make a good impression in New York if it reaches there. This hat Is shown on the figure in the right hand cor ner. Tho brim is enormous and Is draped with lace. I should advlso it only for a garden narty. Tho gown with this has the new sleeve that Oaby designed before the left Paris, ,bkhhk?; s -fji anna m (ho Star Company. Clrent Drltnln By lT)me.ma THERE comes a tlmo when we know wo have crossed tho bridge which lies hetweon youth and middle ngo. It is by no particular sign wo know that this crossing has been nchlovcd, but rattier by tho sum of innny signs. Our step is a little slower, our en durance a littlo lesB, our digestion a bit moro capricious and exacting, our spirit calmer, moro contempla tive and philosophic. Wo increase our ripened charms by facing tho fact instead of turning our back upon it. Tho now dignity and Bweetness thnt accompany middle ago nccapted ard tho com-' pensatlons for the Iosh of the over-1 flowing spirits nnd onviablo tire- i lessness of youth. Do comforted 'y tho fact that mlddlo ago Is merely life's Mid summer, tho tlmo of rlpo fruit, of flowerB of richest fragrance and warmest hue, assured that caro of the body and tho right nttitudo to ward llfo enn prolong that period of tho fulness of life and beauty for ten, ilfteen or twenty jears. But tho middle-aged woman must tako more caro than over boforo of her beauty. She must consider that for tho preservation of her clear, fair complexion sho muBt glvo moro attention than ever before to her food. Digestion Is a slower process after you have passed the forty year milestone. It requires longer to digest your ood at least a third more time than In youth. A little less food should be eaten, for while food of the right sort makes en ergy, It requires energy to digest It. If one be working hard and eat ing hard the drain on the constitu tion Is an overdraught. Tho first danger signal of vanish ing youth Is the "turning" hair. No woman has tho philosophy to look unflinchingly upon n emwn that Is changing from gold or brown to sll- Beauty Questions Answered by M. K at twenty-eight years of ago, complains of hair that is fast turning gray. You do not toll me whether you are In normal health. Debility often causes tho hair to grow prematurely gray. Better change the hair tonic you describe and use instead tills which is nourishing and less drying. As a rule extremity dry hair grows gray earlier than does oily hair. At any rate when wo are ailing, our phy sicians order a chango of tho habits that have caused tho ailment. For tho same reason I suggest a different kind of tonic. Hub into the scalp" nightly a teaspoonful of lanollne with which you have nixed as much powdered sulphur as It Magazine nights Unserved. Cavalieri, theTTJos? VamowrJmna Beauty No. 214Facing Middle Age vor. Hut uvory woman can turn her Intelligence upon tho problem of how to arrest tho tendency. Often a rebuilding of the systom by nourishing foods, especially those with much Iron In them, as spinach and string beans and beets, give the hair a fresh color. Sulphur taken with milk or molasses Internally and used with vaseline, too, In a Mme. Lina Cavalieri. will absorb Into a paste. Sulphur is ono of the well known stimulants of the pigment of tho hair. H. H. confides that within a yonr the left side of hor face has grown perceptibly longer than the right. "The left sldo of my face looks older than tho other and when I laugh tho left sldo wrinkles dread fully." she complains. Hotter go to a physician und nsk him whether you are not tho victim of. facial paralysis. Tho stroke may have been so slight, or It may have hap pened whllo you were asleep, that you were not conscious of it. In that case the afflicted side of your face should stimulated to bet ter circulation to renourlsh tlu paste to be rubbed Into the scalp has an Influence In retaining the original color of the hair. A cool ing tonic that takes the abnormal heat from the head, the application of lumps of Ice wrapped In cotton or a small towel, to lower the tem perature of the scalp, may check the turning pf the color. Massage of the scalp should be an aid. Elec tric treatment, vl brassage or other wise, I have known to check it. Whllo none of thoso moans Is certain to bo euro tho effoct you destro, thoy havo boon effica cious In in any cnHofl nnd , aro worth n trial. The teeth are a serious cause for anxiety In middle age. The enamel Is likely to crack or to be slowly dissolved by the acjds that flow from the glands and that collect In the mouth. Keeping this In mind, be more than ever careful to rinse the mouth frequently with strong calt water. Massage the gums with salt once or oftener a week. It strengthens them by promoting cir culation In them, and many an hon est dentist has ad vised It as a cor rective for the first symptoms of Mme. Cavalieri tissues. Yours 1b a caso tor a physician, I am Bure. A says: "I have been troubled n great deal with blackheads in my noso pores. Thoy soom to coma buck every tlmo I squeeze them out, which only soems to enlarge tho pores and mnko my nose rod. This worries me, us It seomB to spoil my other features " Once the blackheads are removed It is your own fault If they come back. Scrub the nose with a flesh brush upon which you have poured green soap. Scrub It vigorously to remove the blackheads; after that It Is enough to simply keep your fate clean3ed and frre from dust. Page ) middle age shown by the teeth re ceding gums. If you have had n good complex Ion in youth and hnvu taken proper enre of It, you should be able to ro tn In It. Tho skin grows dryer as years multiply. Feed tho skin twice a day with emollients. Hearken to the cry of a great skin specialist, "Oil, oil. oil!" Sagging muscles are the most difficult signs of middle age to con trol, but check them by holding the head habitually high, by frequent chlrvllf ting exercises, by massaging the face with upward strokes and by tying a chin-band tightly across the lower jaw before retiring. "To keep the figure" Is one of the vexing questions. You are prone to grow lean In age? It Is the trond of your family? Then rest a little more, take a morn placid view of life, eat more oily and fattening food. You are In clined to Increase In weight with Increasing years? Then keep mov ing. Do not exercise as violently as In youth, but exercise gently and very often. Fortunately, one aid to keeping thin nature provldea you as you grow older you need less sleep. But to keep off old age, keop off old-ngo thoughts. Go about with young people. Enjoy life with them. Don't mourn the passing of youth, but enjoy what middlo age holds for you. TEACHER'S LAMENT. I JT all happened In n wuyslde village Sje was the village schoolmistress I prim and proper, but a bail hand u' settling accounts with tho local trades i men; he was ten years of age, one o I her pui) 11b. and sop and heir of to. viimifu grocer. loiiiiii)-, hub yeiiou in class on morning, "don't you know It's rude t whistle In the presence of u lady?" Tommy was not ubashed nor cha tenil. "liut dad told me to whistle," he re Piled. "Vour father tola you to whlstl. Tommy?" queried the school teacher In considerable doubt. "Yes'm. He said when we sella yoi anything we've got to whistle for our money." Tommy then took up a consplcuou position In the adtacent corner. ALL CHANGE! I MpjELIM Help! Savo me! Save me" tucu me excueu passenger, as the stoainer cr' "tied at full speed Intt the pier and sp"nters flew In all di rections. "What has happened?" And as she naked Ihe question she seized one of the crew frantically by the arm. The lattor. a tall, burly Irishman I for a moment stroked his mntteC hair ! rellectlvely Then he replied: ! "Happened, ma'am? Happened" Why I nitli ii'' l'i merely looks In m jf ' rtvni hnn