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The Omaha .Sunday Bee Magazine Page
i .
Shifty
LADV DUFF-CORDON, ihe fmcui "LueiU" of London, and forerao.C creator"
of fhtont !n the world, vritei each week the furiioa article for lliii nrwipaptr,
preienting all that it newett and' but in itylev for well-drciud women. if'
Lady DuS-Goidon't new Parii citablitrtmcnt bringi her into cloie touch with that
centre of faihion.
Lady Duff-Cordon'. American citaUithracnt it at No. 37 and 39 Weil Fifty-ievenlh
trct, New York City.
By LADY DUFF-G
Tub well' dressed woman in tlio
woman who exaggerates tho
Uttlo points of bor costume
Tho beautiful woman ia the woman
who-exaggerates the good polnU ot
her face and figure. This Is nn age
ot-exaggeration, and the woman
who turns puritan andrcfuses to
cjfejjgerato Is lost.
Every "woman yearns to bo con
Ride red a beauty, whotlier slie la
ono or not. How otlcn d beauty U
lotvJust becauEo tho woman Is puri
tanically afraid to make the moat of
her .bod points, and that Is all, that
exaggeration is. This gentle art
was riot" original with woman.
I preach individuality, and what
Is individuality but exaggeration?
When, I see a woman who is differ
ent 'frfcm her fellows 1 know that
Nature, or the woman herself has
exaggerated some one of her points.
I love the Oriental drees. It satis
fies a craving for beauty in my
breast .that no other costume does.
Tho Oriental costume is exaggera
tion Jn dress at its best In this
dress we have tho rare and inde
scribable spirit ot tho East caught
and held by womau.
I have been able to adapt many
oft the Oriental costumes to .our
fiaodera habits and days. And I
-will 'say Tery frankly that I think
tkt.ssy of my most delightful
0
&3
ORDON ("LUCILE")
creations had their incoption lu the
Kast. I havo never, however, made
the fatal error ot transplanting a
costume bodily. It is that I havo
seized upon a hint in tho color or,
perhaps. In the drapery, and havo
developed It so that tho Parisian
wearer has been the cause ot great
envy among hor friends,
The stage is undoubtedly the
greatest background for tho art ot
exaggeration. Everything on it has
to bo enlarged, no almost distorted
in order to "got over." Humor be
comes almost coarso, smiles become
laughter, complexions aro made up
in a way that beggars description
this is at close ran go, seen from tho
front, however, tho effect 1b usually
very beautiful. On tho stage exag
geration is not only allowable, it is
obligatory, and perhaps no stage
beauty takes more kindly to tho de
velopment' ot her good points than
Gaby Dealys.
I have made some very charming
gownB for this inimitable Frenoh
actress. I am using her to show
you tho true, tho artistic method ot
exaggeration. But It must bo borne
in mind that the art displayed hero
would not be appropriate off tho
stage. But the samo principles ap
ply to this art off and on the stage.
For instance, Gaby has very beau
tiful eyes. They are large and of a
gray, the shade of the Winter skies
when the snow flies. Her eyes are.
Copyright 1918.
"IS? ?
The
"Exaggerated
Line" Wrap
and Hat,
Designed to
Accentuate
Mile. Gaby's
Height ,and
Grace. A
Delightful
Example of
Legitimate
Feminine
Exaggeration
her best foature. Therefore, I
studied thorn before creating any
thing for her. I did not have to
think ot hor color, for Gaby can
wear any color known to man, it
was Individuality ot stylo that I had
to work out . ,
Hoforo getting away f rontv Gaby a
eyes let mo whisper to tho "wo1"
whoso eyes are Iter best feature, "If
tlysy are largo mako them larger.
No. A T W,r J.,v fll TliM MCAf-
210"ry nCVV
Bv Mme. Una Cavalieri.
IT was a clever corsetlere who told
ma of it Sho is inventive and
has common sense, a combina
tion rare and compelling. Need
1 say sho Is successful, rich and
populnrT
"Sho said: 'Madame, you uro slen
der as a reed. I pray that you Will
remain, so, for.Bllmness more than
anything else gives the semblance
ot youth. But should you over note
in yourself tho dreadful Amorlcan
sign ot the spreading hips, do that
which has made all my patrons slim
and supple."
"ObeBity pelletsT" I asked with
a lift ot the brows, tor you, my long,
faithful readers, know th?.t I do not
approve them. .
"Nonl Non"
"Nonl Nonl"
"BlctlngT"
"Dieting is another name for star
vation. It causes a woman to look
old and sad and tired."
"Exerciser
"A little, ot course, for health, but
over-xercIse robs femininity ot its
' soft aspect To be beautifully femi
br the Star Company Great Britain
Lady Duff-Gordon Tells Why
a Woman Should Underscore
Her Good Points, and Dress
to Make the Most
of Herself
The Small Hat I Created to Increase the Size and Brilliancy
of Mile. Gaby's Gray Eyes, and Chiffon and Brocade Wrap
of an Exaggerated Type, Appropriate for the Stage or Gar
den Party.
Don't bo satisfied with their actual
slzo, but dress your hair and your
body so as to increase it. I know
that-some of my Ideas will appear
appalling to tho puritan woman, but
remember that I am Just following
tho example set by Nature!
Small hats 'at partly shade tho
face, particularly at the side, tend
to mako tho eyes look larger, and
glvo a hint of mystery to them. Lot
tho woman whoso eyes are largo try
this. The woman with small eyes
must wear hats with a wide brim,
and must wear hor hntr Huffed out
about her face. This tends to make
her whole faco look small and her
eyes appear larger by contrast.
But to return to Gaby, but not to
her eyes, tor a moment I want to
call attention to tho sumptuous
evening cloak In the first picture.
This Is a decided exaggeration of a
modo that is very smart and very
popular in Paris at present To suit
tho dainty and piquant Gaby I had
to exaggerate Its points, ot course.
And by this exaggeration I havo ac
cented hor lines in a most adorablo
manner. Gaby is n slender sprite in
reality, but wearing this wonderful
wrap of silver brocade, with its ex
tremely long trailing back and Its
Way IU Wl ltim-mjfUCUCld UI UtaUiy m,e Most Famous livinnBeauly
nine a woman must suggest softness
ns does the cat Over-exercise
causes tho muscles to bourgeon and
harden, as the blacksmith's muscles
do, and may glvo the curiously eet
and hardened expression to the face
bo unbecoming to women. Women
were not made for hard continuous
tasks ot any sort."
So thought tho great corsctlcrp,
whom Paris has named "Tho sculptor
ot tho woman figure." You and I
may think, ot course, otherwise. But
her reduction method has melted
away tho fat from a score ot my
American friends as by magic. One
warning I utter. Employ it sanely
and carefully, for. like all reduction
methods, it carelessly or foolishly
used, it may become what in the
United States you call a "boome
rang." At night before retiring drop a
Turkish towel into boiling water,
wrlnt. It out quickly and place It
about the hips and abdomen. Re
' move it as soon as the towel cools
and dip the towel again Into the
boiling water, wring it out and wrap
the nam part of the body with It -
Do this tlx times and tue result
will be quite as when you have
nights Reserved.
heavy fur bauds, she looks as tall
and us sinuous as our mental Idea
of a Russian princess.
The deep and thick fur collar In
creases tho delicacy of her com
plexion. In this costumo Gaby's
lines were of more importance than
her eyes,, and bo I sacrificed the
latter to ncertaln extent But ,a
moro graceful figure never stepped
upon the boards than Gaby in this
costume. Tho hat, with Its exces
sively high plumes, adds to her .
height, of course, but they aro ot
such grace that they do not nppear
to bo exaggerated. Now, this cos
tume, beautiful as it is on the stage
and on tho graceful Gaby, would bo
utterly out of placo off .tho stage.
I cannot conceive of any woman co
dopold of tasto and sonso as to' Wear
it But I consldor it a veritable,
triumph for Gaby.
In thlB picture I have. shown one
way to oxaggerato tho graco and
slenderness ot , the lines ot tho
figure. Itomomber that it is, per
haps, easier to accentuate ono's
"lines" thah to enhanco any other
fenturc. Thero Is, to my mind,
nothing of greater value to a wom
an thun seemingly long, slender
linos.
steamed your face. The pores are
wide open as the mouths of a little
bird gaping for food. These mouths
must be fed, Feed them with a re
duction lotion or. cream. That In
which my corsetlere profoundly be
lieves Is this;
Alcohol 1 qt.
Camphor gum 2 oz.
BEAUTY
"In Summer my nose is a natural
color, but In Winter it becomes' red;"
writes R. .
A red nose usually means Indiges
tion or poor circulation, when It does
not mean alcoholism. Avoid tight
garters, corsets, collars and sleeves.
Eat simple food and drink much
water. .If you are In the habit of
drinking alcoholic liquors, break It
Pilocarpine remedies aro ac
cepted by authorities on hair cul
ture as tho best hair growers in the
market Pilocarpine is derived from
Jaborandl leaves. These are used in
Paris as preventives ot baldness.
Tincture of arnica, 200 grams.
Quinine, 200 grams.
Jaborandl leaves, 100 grams.
1
mini,
In the second plcturo I return to
Gaby's eyes. Hero you will see an
example of what I meant when I
Bald that small hats made large
eyes look larger. In the other pic
tures you will seo that I had to sac
rlflco her eyes, but In this I havo
brought out all their beauty and
size and then some, to speak slanglly
ngafn.
This hat is one"of the small, snug
caps, that fit tho head ever so
closely, coming down quite over the
ears, but allowing a bit ot an open
ing just above tho eyes, as you can
see. This cap Is edged with soft
dark fur that mixes with tho hair.
The upstanding chou of brocade and
fur gives the length to tho head
that is necessary.
This simple hat is naturally not
exaggerated in itself, . but It ac
centuates the eyes. This Is im
portant to keep in mind, for if It
was extravagant In Itself It would
overpower tho eyes.
What a tremendous contrast Is
the elaborate wrap worn with this
simple chapeau! It is of an ex
travagance that puts it out of the
overy day. class entirely. No worn
nn could wear it nor the huge muff,
save on tho stage or, perhaps, nt a
A i..
Fill vour cunoed nalm with thin
and rub It vigorously Into the hips
and abdomen. The camphor Is an
active reduction agent It does Its
work so quickly that In a week I
have known women to lose five
pounds through Its use.
It has the very great advantage
of reducing the size n the spots
wherj one wishes to lore It. Tho
QUESTIONS ANSWERED
Pilocarpine lotion:
Eau do cologne, 100 grams.
Glycerine, 10 grams.
Tincture of cantharides, 5 grams.
Nitrate of pilocarpine, 25 grams.
This has boon successful in fend
ing oft baldness:
Rosemary alcohol, 100 grams.
Tincture of cantharides, 10 grams.
Salicylic acid, 1 gram.
With a soft brush apply the lotion
every night on retiring.
K. S. writes me: ".My body is
very fat in tho middle, while my
upper part is rather thin. How can
I reduce the former and develop
the latter without submitting to
very fatiguing exercises on-account
- :V -'
mi
7
11
Striped Evening Cloak with Sumptu
ous White Fur Collar and Bands that
'Strikingly Exaggerate Mile. Gaby'a
Slenderness and the Palior of Her
Skin. Small Hat, with Huge Osprey
Decorations, Created to Accentuate
Her Eyes and Display Her Hair.
garden party. And then only with
a demurp hat and a gown of equal
demureness. The elaborateness ot
the wrap docs not detract from tho
eyes, but In tho full length figure
you will seo that tho graco shown
in the first figure Is gone. Volumln
ousness in wraps or gowns is apt to
shorten aud broaden tho figure.
In picture three there; is much
that many would call exaggeration,
but 1b not the tout ensemble very
beautiful? Hero I had to accentu
ato lines and display tho hair and
eyes ns well a difficult task, for
tho hat that ald3 the eyes hides
the hair as a rule. But to the artist
all things are possible. I had also
to creato something that was to
tally unlike the coat In my own
picture. In this caso I took a su
perb stripped black and whito vel
vet for tho wrap. It Is very narrow
and daringly long for an overwrap.
The pointed effect In tho back is ac
centuated by tho white fur that
ends in a sharp point. The long
bands on tho front and tho stripes
add at least threo inchos, to tho
wcarer'3 height. Tho dead whito
fur gives a charming pallor to
Gaby's complexion and adds sparklo
to her eyes.
By Mme. UNA CAVAIIERI.
method can be applied to the shoul
ders, to'the upper arms, to the lower
legs, to the double chin. It Is cheap
and speedy and well worth a per
sistent trial. But do wra. yourself
Well l.i a woolen gown while apply.
Ing the wet cloths and rubbing In
the lotion and dry the body thor
oughly afterward to avoid catching
of my weak heart?"
Stretch the arms straight out
ward from the sides and bring them
together until the fingers meet the'
movement that you and I used when
w" were Idren and used to play
m C 8thu0U'de until the fists
meet abbve the head Is another val
rh? exclse for developing the
chest. To reduce the abdomen
there are no better movements than
the two of bending forward from
the hips, without bending the knees,
until the tips of the fingers reach
the floor, and lying on the back
kicking upward, first with one lea
and then the other,