Image provided by: University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries, Lincoln, NE
About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 22, 1912)
The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine fMm MY .tRliNL.l'lliSI rALL ' MT ! - r T 1 . . . . 4.MmW,)a'-'l'M..4V.WlK.mm.Mm,inum,..lUi H,mir,.Ui.,IA.W.lll.'H 1UIIIIIHJII.IIII .llllUll lM rf Yl & U i - ,u y f m u - B III I '' ' " ",' , ' "ton : ,, ; , f ' : - - i ' . M ;XV ; 1 v k --2 - ? ,1 LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucilc" of London, and foremost creator of fash ions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York City. E are to wear our fur coats Shorter this year. Such, any rate. Is the new edict for the elegantes, who are farther commanded to don soft little slips of dresses In crepe or chiffon. They will be underlined with flesh pink charmeuse (if you take my advice!) of exactly the same tone of coloring as the chosen fur, so that though there Is an earlier ' break than heretofore between coat fur and dress fabric, It will not be very noticeable owing to the continuance of the color scheme. By Lady Duff-Gordon. Otherwise, of course, the shorter coats would have fatally unbecom ing effects upon the figures of their wearers, and take Inches from their apparent height. But this very fact will prevent this particular fashion in furs from becoming universally popular, ror there are comparatively few women who can afford to don fragile chiffon frocks whenever they want to wear their fur coat, while then, again. those who study their health as much as, or more than, their appear ance will give a thought to the un protected and therefore uncomfort- The Gown of White Tulle That Gaby Designed Herself. Only a Slender, Boyish Figure Will Dare to Adopt This Design. J y By( Lady Duff-Gordon. N Paris -we are 'forced to admit rut Be original, I Ithat MHeDeslys Is one of the Frenchlest ' of the French,; that i she Is bavins en undeniable effect on the fashions of the momtfat.' 1 and all of my 'people are happy ' to , "gown" j this piquant little Pa rlsienne, but of course she is not the first of French artistes to come to me.' Madame Rejane, Mile.' Maxace, Mile. Vlx and Mile.' Leconte are all on my list Certain fabrics, certain laces even, I re serve for each of them. I , would not, for Instance, use the same fabrics for Mile. Gaby , that I use for Madame Rejane. I do not use for Mile. Leconte the models I de signed'' for the little Countess fcde Vay, one of this year's, buds, Individuality is my fetish, It ap palls' me to see women going along' year, after, year . in the same old say. And I know that you will notice the originality, the individuality in the designs I present this week. Naturally Mile. Deslys lends her-' self delightfully to my designs. She has much originality herself, and' you will see I am showing yon a gown that she designed her self. The sleeve has made quite an impression in Paris, and is al ready known as the "Gaby Sleeve." Of course, while designing these very new gowns for Mile. Gaby, I realise that they will appeal to all women of slender, boyish lines. The debutante and the slender young matron' -will delight in the two evening gowns here shown. The turquoise charmeuse, with the everskirt and tunio of tulle of the same shade, is youthful, hut has a certain dignity. Different in its treatment is the gown of pink charmeuBe and tulle. Notice that I have used the same fabrics in each costume, but how very different one is from the other. The one has a slashed under skirt. .The other has a .scalloped underskirt ably chilly condition of their "un derstandings." - So, even t? they are goine to ir. dulge in a new fur coat this seaso they will . choose one of the fu length models, which will, of course still be available, and which promis to be particularly attractive, too. And such a choice I would con sider to be an altogether wise one for the average woman with th ordinary allowance. The shortei coats are really only suited to those fortunate folk who can have two or three fur wraps at a time. The leadincr . o uiic J. the coats, whether long or short, is their one sided fastening and their general effect of , looseness and width about th& shoulders that is ac-1 ceniuated by the close swathing from hips to ankles. To secure the desired silhouette, it 8 necessary to fold one side of the coat cioseiy about the i ngure. Then draw the other round and upward to the left hip. Just as if you had Just emerged from your morning tub, and because of the absence of any other garment were, of necessity, obliged to hold your bath wrapper tightly about you! Once you have dis- f covered just the right knack of thus upholding your coat you must adapt your t movement to its narrowness! Three-Skirt Dress of Turquoise Char meuse and Tulle. A Gown That Can Be Worn in the Late Afternoon and Evening.' The High Waist Line Is the Sign of the Debutante. m ;?;. ".V . -' ' : :' : r . -.-, m u fF , . v 1 T W'Tx til A. I I K:fr$it&i MIL-A . Lin miiiMM ill 11 I I ill imdmil""-J nmitim,mtmt,MOM ? ( ' 'VS i J. -i , '-J i , f ?t , r -,i i' a , i 4-,-. .. ; , ,1 J;t , 'vit jf.,Jh; -, : A 7B- H ftt- 1 -f "'''' ' ! 1 faM' - -t 1 ' 1 ' i xhj I 1 : 1 1 : -J I 1 I 1 v ' " " ' slashed under ? Thim in verv costume t give the mad over this Fall. Never have I I is , . 1 1 ' 1 ! V . 11 : i, . V '. v dresses. Not -since 1860 has tulle t most enthuse over the Oriental I t ' v . . ..'.'i i. i ..!.: ' ' -wv ' Th. nwn llAh AaelffUM .1 I. A.n.n e Iff Tnr l.Hnv. I Mill . . .-y - V'mv::;' ' ' ' i herself Is entirely built of tulle, and deluged with requests for dnpli- . . . HI v " "... S 'i gowns or tune ana cnarmeuse, or or jpirit of the oneni, iamea uy rwu. f V i , , 'A ,;' tulle" and liberty satin. , The drapery has to be done on the f"will. V'v"' K V- " ' I not com- ". .person who is to wear It This I ' VJt Xv v ' ., j J -X bine tulle wltix . am most insistent about. A manni- . -3 ' Nri; ,, x- ' velvet. Chiffon kin, no matter how graceful and . 1 wwr",; I V .-A- S, ' etill rules su- adaptable, never has the little W V- 'preme in all vel- mannerisms, the litUe tricks of mo- S - I X " " k.' " vet combinations. . tlon that the one herself has. And v, r. V a . , X ' . 1 " ' "' " ''. doir and tea- Paris has said good-by to the . t L' V A ' Is literally going a few weeks ago. But undoubtedly I VI ' --I.'.":- X' . ' - - the vogue for It has made Itself .; I . $4 ;;A ' ' r. , . ' , ' .t;,", .', just above the ankles. 1 1 ' zi ' V f PaHs, the city of fads and ' ' 1 if i ' 'V", v- A . , faSsV The fleeUng moment is ri " ", . this year must be long ana snou.u ' S U h crinkled. - V V 'ttr. X -H The Paradise Haf '.That Cre- 1 A n ' TJ - W ated a Sensation. at the Races .v y ' "s V1 n Last Month. This Hat Is to x ' V- , . Y ''.;' 1 ! Vail Be Duplicated Every Few 1 . ' X '. -V s Vll Weeks' " Caby.wints to t . . u XlV ... -- r-.L . WirwMaJ. ct-. i ir Hiaiawk'l . .Wear It All Winter. ,; mraKiM&'mm' . The Draped Mantua and Muff of Brocade and Chiffon That Typifies the Paris Spirit; Things Need Not Be Useful, but They Must Be Beau tiful. The Use of Ermine on the Close-Fitting Hat and on the Mantua Presages a Return to Favor of That Royal Fur. Plush Comes Into Its Own Again. By Lady Duff-Gordon. HIS Is to be a plush season. Not for many years has this sumptuous fabric been so used as it is to be this Winter. Silk plush of the most supple tex ture m mole, green and black will utterly overpower the velvet of the past ten years. Hats, wraps, gowns and -tallorad costumes are made of it; in fact, I 1 "A . -; .J,',: "A x i , V V V"!i 'r " '," - ' X. p''1" '. ' " " ' " rt r ' X" 4 ' ' ,v x - X ! - -,-- ' l. , " T I, ' Hi i , A , , i X"1 "" ! " ' - - ' K 1 r ' x " ,' t'-V - XK' 1 " -- Thus in every costume t give the individual, touch that makes, each gown I design a complete master-, piece In itself. Tulle is rapidly taking the place of chiffons for tunics and over dresses. Not -since 1860 has tulle reigned as It bids fair to reign this winter. The gown Gaby designed herself Is entirely built of tulle, and I am j making several debutante gowns of tulle and charmeuse, or of tulle and liberty satin. I do not com bine tulle with velvet. ' Chiffon ' etill rules' su 'preme in all vel vet combinations. Chiffons are also used for the bou doir and tea ' gowns that Paris Is literally going mad over this Fall. Never have I had to design so many costumes for afternoons "at home." This is a revival of a fad of twenty years ago, and Paris is acting as thhugh it were something entirely new. I must enthuse over the Oriental . gown shown here, for while I de signed it especially for Gaby, I am deluged with requests for dupli cates. It has, as I have satd, the ipirit of the Orient, tamed by Paris. The drapery has to be done on the person who is to wear it This I am most insistent about, A manni- kin, no matter how graceful and adaptable, never has the little mannerisms, the little tricks of mo tion that the one herself has. And drapery, to be successful, must fit into every motion of the wearer. Paris has said good-by to the pannier gown as it appeared even a few weeks ago. But undoubtedly the vogue for it has made itself felt in all the fall fashions. When the pannier is used, it 1b very low, hardly more , than shallow puffs just above the ankles. PaHs, the city of fads and fancies! The fleeting moment is no fleeter than many of the fashions that spring up. The roses of yes ter year are no deader than the sleeves of a month ago! All sleeves this year must be long and should be crinkled. The Paradise Hat" That Cre ated a Sensation, at the Races Last Month. This Hat Is to Be Duplicated Every Few Weeks, as Gaby Wants to Wear It All Winter. Black Velvet and Chiffon Dinner Gown, Matronly , in Line, but with ' Youthful Touches. The fringed Hem Is . . a New .Thought' r 1 to quote a bright little American girl who was seeing the shops in the Rue do la Paix for the first time, "Everything but lingerie and stockings seems to ' be made of plush." The prevalence of this fabric means the continuance of the heavy laces and gold and metal trimmings. Fine laces do not harmonize with plush. They, are barely useable on velvets. ' : . .' The very chic, matrons .who fol low' the fashion will o' the wisp, and who care not how much money they spend, will have their hand somest evening gowns of brocades. The tulles and soft satins are to be left to the buds and. brides. The matrons are favoring brocades, and particularlygold or silver brocades that range in price from tea to thirty dollars a yard. : And now have you, I wonder, seen the very newest thing in the way uf a hat of white satin, whose shape suggests that it is a. near 'relation to both the bowler and ' the Horn burg? The crpwn is quite soft and the small brim slightly upturned at both sides, the better to reveal a lining of black satin, while for sole trimming there is Just a nar row encircling band of black patent leather fastened in front with a lit-' tie gold buckle. It may not sound much, but in reality I assure you It is the most fascinatingly smart, as well as comfortable, thing, and is not likely to get out of position, even in a gale of wind, as It is worn crammed right down on the head, and only slightly tilted up at the right side. This means neat hair dressing and the "small head" which I love so. You may gather that the new hat has my fullest approval. Another small soft shape in white beayer felt is worn in just the . same ' way, but may pos sibly be more becoming to the majority because it is less severely plain, the crown being swathed , round -with soft satin rib bon, while a mount . of white coque feathers is fastened in front with a ery large pearl buckle.