Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, September 15, 1912, MAGAZINE, Image 14
7,r i--,t''-?!ii,st'is.-'v.i;.': "j bjC- The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page L ; ; ; : . '" - - " 1 : : : : : : ; v Copyright, 1912, by Araerlcah-Exair'ner. " Great Britain Rights Reserved. I II II i! j 5 lj " x ji v -fa ' if - V v ' xs wi In 'vw': -? vv , r - ,s sr vJ0. AV T - - y . m 1j H v rr 1 - ;- H 1 u n!S i 1 V 1 ? , vr :- h IN : -V V A ' 1 At r- ... i .' l ' I iir-14 rv - ' -7 1 . v - n'Tfr--fe; ' v llr ' 'C iv "A IS -'v j . ' . ! - tl y Hc ;?U A : A Somewhat Eccentric Fall Model in Ratine of the New . A if it U IsA 't i 1 Abiinthe 'Color Lined with Pale Mauve Panne. . . Y m F&p V'v t t j WW a s ' vAx ;-vt Jhv rSw-n'.v ".w"VA face : In which : 7 , l VJSt ; r:.-V r III I . I 1 sending you to-day two ex- ly in PPllque form, and then edged . gloves of -golden . ' v A VK,rAVi j6;vy liStf&V I - ' n . LADY DUFF-GORDON. the famous "Lucile" of London, and - foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles -for well-dressed i women. v Lady Duff -Gordon's new Paris wtablishment brings her into close , touch with. that centre of fashion.. . Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is ' at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York City.' By Lady Duff-Gordon C'Lucile") F the latent Fall models I am sending you to-day two ex amples. One of them is little eccentric and under no cir cumstances could be worn by any but the very youngest and slightest women. : '' . It is a new variety oi ratine In the new absinthe color. It is lined with pale mauve panne blch shows as the wearer moves. There is a suspicion of ermine on the cuffs and collar. The' trimmings are made of the ratine. ? with this costume are worn gloves of the color of . the ermine, while the shoes and stockings are of the eame color as the dress. . The hat is pale mauve panne lined with black. On the right hand side 1s a little bunch of flowers made In' orange, blue and various shades ot deeper mauve silk. The very newest variety of ostrich - feather of a faded scarabs blue adorns the hat, and the beaded bag is in various shades of this same blue. ' -The costume is a charming one, but us I have Indicated, too extreme for the average woman. v The other gown, made for Gaby Deslys, is suitable for anyone. It is made of lace. The underdress is of white lace which forms two ruffles at the bottom of the skirt. Over this there is a drapery of black Chantilly. slightly gathered about tne waist and allowed to fall easily, ending in scallops just above the top white lace ftouuee. The blouse con sists of a hand embroidered muslin fichu draped over the shoulders aud held In the front and back beueatu A cerise velvet girdle. ' Every woman loves to hear about wedding garments, and so I who love making them, too am glad to be able to send you news this week of some dainty dresses for Lady Diana Manners, the beautiful bride elect of the Marquis of Anglesey, whose marriage will provide a splendid, not f say sensational, finish the season. And it is in one of my prettiest gowns that the rnarchtones.8 will start on her honeymoon journey and begin her new life. Imagine first a little slip of an underdress of fiesb pink cbarmeuse on which narrow strips of lace are laid flat ly in applique form, and then edged with a' tiny ruffling of .Valenciennes while at the hem: there comes a broad encircling transparency of lace on which circlets of gathered lace are set like so many blossoms and . outlined and centred with pipings ot pale pink satin. A peep of pale blue comes here and there, too, on both the filmy pink ninon of the corsage and the charmeuse of the tkirt, for blue means luck, for the bride, you know and, as I think, for any; woman at all times, and so it is that in practically, every dress I make, there Js, some where or other, a tiny touch of the , lucky and lovely color which, of course, always looks its loveliest in conjunction and contrast with the palest of pinks, Jt being a fa v. orlte plan of mine, you know, to complete such a color scheme with stockings of flesh pink silk and shoes of pale blue satin , r " Indeed, I hope that I have already so impressed this fact, and its fasci nation, upon you, that you have tried its effects for yourself with $ome "alluring" boudoir gown, or deli cate dance dress," and ' with 1 the happiest possible results. , Well, now, to go back to Lady Diana's "going away" dress. - You must know that, over the lace-adorned charmeuse blip there comes, a veil ing of, ivory-tinted net and lace, very deeply scalloped at the hem where it is all edged with a narrow binding of pure satin, and a ruffling of Val. lace, the depth of , these scallops, meaning, of course, that in between you see glimpses ot all the inner daintiness of the trans parent lace. .A box pleating of lace encircles the skirt midway, all its soft fullness being-followed by a nar-. row line of pink jjicot edged baby ribbon, while above this again there are three graduated folds of satin which all show beneath the short scalloped tunic of lace. The quaint little high walsted bolero corsage being of this same beautifully pat . terned and toned lace. And now, perhaps, you will realire that the dark-eyed, delicately featured and slim figured bride will be a vision of loveliness in this ethereal at tire... . .. . . One of her trousseau dresses, my favorite, I think, is of delicate green charmeuse, with a fine ruffled sur face in which gloves of -golden yellow are Im prisoned, the first suggestion bf color being- ' eventually" : concentrated and realized In the lit tie knot of satin which catches to gether the loops of the little lace tie. There is a deeply down-turned collar, too. of ivory-toned lawn as fine as a cobweb broidered with tiny fcprays of flowers and edged -with lace. This same dainty fab ric being folded like a fichu on the corsage and then forming a-long," loosely hanging apron panel on the front, of the skirt. - And between the crossover folds of the soft," mellow-toned, lawn there shows the pure whiteness of a little chemi sette of Val. lace. This contrast a striking as well as a subtle one being repeated in the undersieeves. -. And for the waistband I have used ' a soft, dark blue mousseline striped narrowly with . white and further ; patterned with showers or wee, pink roses. The lilac colored satin which outlines the swathing of the waistband at either side being soown again ana more prominently erclse, for the weight of the hair pulling gently at the roots strength ened the roots of the hair and re newed the circulation in it as the calisthenics develop a puny arm. "The poise of your head is better. Gaby Deslya in a New "Lucile" Model Lace Gown Designed 7 ; for Early Fall Wear.; ? : : coloring, or, 'at any rate, ' whose bordering should . match the tie in ' tint; This is, I think, one of the ' best examples of the plain tailor suit, which is 6uch an important item in every woman's and each season's outfit, and I - have, also made its duplicate for ' the bride (and for several other well-known .society women this season) in nat ural shantung, with the same er st the foot of the draDed skirt. ' r"0.'. "."I. r.; rfi. if underl'Dea tn ,hem a black satin, the crepe de chine ties depth of home five or six inches, - selected for wear with the shirt nun is oruugni inio outward view" by the catching, up of the soft charmeuse folds at one side. A complete contrast to this "pic-, ture" dress 1 a trim tailor-made of dark navy blue coating serge. The coat quite straight and plain and opening over a single-breasted waistcoat of white piquo, held in at the waist by a very deeply folded band of black satin. , The skirt which completes the costume is of white Jap. silk and has a scarf of crepe de chine (blue or black or green or purple to suit the mood and the millinery of the moment) knotted beneath the "polo" collar. The buttons and links which serve for the fastening of the front and the sleeves being such pretty pearl things with , a "ribbon and reedV bordering of silver, while they are stitched through the centre; too, with silver. A single butt aa is also set on tbe point of the little breast-pocket which figures at the left side of the f hlrt and from which there should peep out the corner of a filmy mouchoir whose : being in this case ot saxe and China blue shadings. I have seen a new ' hat, too, which I think must have been foreordained to complete this particular and , pet costume of mine. 1 It is in black beaver vel ours and in that latest and rather large sailer shape, which has a ' moderately high crown and a rath er wide brim, whose slight upward roll at either side Is accentuated , by a larme made of the same felt, but with the soft plush-like surface worked in the reverse way. It is set well down on the head and at a slight tilt, too, which brings into most piquant position the three central and upstanding white quills which are fastened by a band , and a prim little fiat bow ot white corded silk ribbon. , The same shape looks well in bottle green felt,. or again in a black Panama ' straw, the trimming always -being of the pure white. But1 on the , whole, and though this straw is so beautifully light, I think I pre fer the soft felt for- the modelling ot this particular and piquant shape, so perhaps it is just as well that straws have been almost ousted already by the . felt, which, ordl- . narlly, we do not begin to wear till, say; October. It la. really rather quaint that Fashion should have chosen . one of' the hottest , Summers on .record for; such a choice of headgear, and, further more, for : a renewal of fur trim mings for the most gossamery ot gowns. But the fact remains that she has so chosen and that we, her faithful followers, not to say slaves, are proving as unquestioningly obe dient as usual. The practically untrimmed hat is still a favorite of hers and ours too, its latest development being a soft shape of white felt, edged with a iand of wool braid in some vivid ' solor, such as- purple, yellow, car rot red or emerald green, a band of the same very open-meshed braid being drawn round the crown and tied in a jaunty little bow at one side. - -. ' - j Or, , then again, there will be Just dropped . down with most carefully contrived carelessness at one edge of a rather wide brim, a' single long-stalked rose ot bril liant crimson, or else a couple of temptingly ripe-looking cherries, while actually 1 have seen a single strawberry, used in this way and looking Eo startlingly lovely and"; incongruous in its new snd prom inent position that one longed to ' pick it off and deposit it comfort ably on a plate! Really, that was just a little too freakish, don't you . think? j ' By Mme. Lina Cavalieri, the Most Famous Living Beauty i92--0ur Bodies Our Servants MME. CAVALIERI asserts to-day that our bodies are our servants and we can make of them whatever we wish. She recites her sparkling conversation with a Parisienne who had been plain, but became beautiful by exacting this same body obedience. The article is exceptionally valuable. , . By Mme. Lina Cavalieri. - THIS morning a brilliant and beautiful Frenchwoman said to me: "Our bodies are our servants. We can do with them whatever we will, make of them . whatever we wish." "Whatarer we wish," I echoed. "Do you quite believe that?' ."Quite," she responded with one of her smiles, slow,' persuasive, illuml nating, that always reminded me of a sunrise. Then, suddenly, I remembered that she had not always been as she was now, and my thoughts, -travelling swiftly back along the path of the years, recalled to me that there had been a time when I had thought her, quite plain. . Plain 'this radiant creature." ' , But it was true, and as delicately as I could I reminded her of the., transformation, and asked her how it had been wrought. "You must admit, my dear Yvonne," I said, with a smile of apology, "that you' had not always the style you have now; 'that seems now to be natural." "Style." She blew imaginary this tledown from the tips of her fingers. "Style is that Natural style does not exist." ;i ;,: -p;r "But some,, persons look . better .. than others, even though . their w clothes are the same," I persisted. ', "Some persons have "more distinct, tion than others," she admitted., '.'But , ' style, that is, chic, no. No, no. People are the same as to raw ma- ' terlal. . All persons are equally ugly when undressed. They are like the -1 bare canvas on the easel, awaiting the painter's brush. We paint our selves with our gowns, our hats, our gloves, our boots" "Interesting," I mused. - "True," she insisted. - "Consider the friends you see within an hour after rising.. How do they look? Ugly? Yes. Old? ; Yes. Sleep is. a mystery past solving. It is a form of death. In a sense we die every night and - are resurrected in the morning. In that strange coma ths muscles of our faces , sink. "You said 'we can make of our bodies anything we like." ' "Ah, yes! And I have proven it You would have an example? When ' you knew me first I was becoming stout I had taken on that too great fullness about the middle" of the body that is the defect in the figures of your American friends. My lines are now girlish, are they not?" - , "Resolving to make my body obey me instead of my obeying my body, I began stooping many times every morning. Not content with the usual exercises of bending so that the tips of my Angers touched the floor, my knees unbent, I picked up every pin I saw in the house or . ou the street1 I never passed a raveling from a bit of cloth lying on the floor without picking it up. If I dropped my paper-knife or a letter, or my gloves, I permitted no one else to pick it up. I did so my self.' It was by bending from the waist many times a day that I got the muscles of the hips and abdo men again under control. I made my body obey me, with the results you have seen." "Your, hair?" I said. "I remem-. ber when it was not so glossy and 1 vigorous as it is today." ' . "You are quite right It looked' dead as a brush heap in Winter. , I r determined to develop Its life and .gloss, and I began to give ..it care; in other words, to give it a chance. What does a doctor do when he wants his patient to live? He 1n- sists on his getting more air. "While my halt was taking the ' the air it. was also taking ex- i ., I i i i " ( 1 V I I I )&&r&' ' s V'1 ' ti 1 $ - , u !, 3,. 1 I: : jMy 1 i ? - oi f '':K V, f &ti , Mme. Lina Cavalieri. . v It gives you the air of added height,'' I suggested. . "Catching a glimpse of myself while my head was lowered. I was shocked at the reflection. . I- knew my mirror ; was a- true one. I looked , older and sad . and dull. Raising my chin, in a gesture ot surprise, I was amazed to see the difference. - At least five years seemed to vanish as by magic. Every day since then I have raised my chin and stretched my neck, repeating the exercise until I had warnings of a headache. This I have never failed to do four times a day sluce I re ceived my warning. - "It shocks a woman to catch such a glimpse of herself. It is as though she met the woman she would be fifty years hence." BeaMy Questions Answered B. S. writes: "I have Unions that cause me hours of agony. Please let me knotr through the paper what I can do to cure them." , . The chief cause of bunions is wearing shoes that are '.oo short or too narrow. This vlll cause the en largement and widening of the Joint of the great toe. First remove the cause by. wearing shoes of reason able size. Applying cloths that have een wrung out of hot water, re eves the Irritation. Applications of the following will relieve both ; corns and bunions, though I do not claim anything will absolutely cure bunions. In the words of 'an au thority they are, In their nature, more or lest permanent ; 1 Flexible collodion.......... ..1 oz. Salicylic cid...W..........1 dram Paint the bunion with thic mix ture every other day, or, if you are suffering e tremely, every day. N. Ks request is, "Kindly pub llsh the way, if there is any, of re - moving a mole besides using the electric needle." Caustics are said to have removed , moles, but as there is alweys a risk of Injuring seriously the surround ing flesh and skin, I do not recom mend them. "The means of application is thus describsd by an authority who dif fers from me. If the mole is a raised one, stand ing out from- the surface, obtain a small piece pf lunar caustic and fasten It securely upon a quill . Moisten the mole with saliva and rub on the caustic, but be careful not to touch the healthy flesh. Re peat this regularly, say every night .and morning. The mole will turn black and peel off. When the spot appears on a level with the flesh use a little hsaling ointment on it If the mole has entirely disappeared continue to apply the salve. If not use the caustic again. If the mole is flat applications with a toothpick or pointed match dipped into muriatic acid or glacial acetic acid are recommended by the same authority. I do not recommend them because they may leave scars uglier than the moles.