THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: SEPTEMBER , 8, 1912.
fBeautiful CoSa Rica, Switzerland of Central America
S
J
(Copyright. 1912. by Frank Q. fcarpenter.)
AN JOSE. Costa Rica. Come
with me this morning: fur a
trip through .the', Switzerland
of Central America. We are
In the mountains of Costa
Rica, the upper end Of the
Andes, north of the range through which
i we are cutting our great ditch at Panama.
; We are In a Jand made up of mountains.
1 It is 150 miles wide and over 200 mites
King, and the most of it Is composed of
these tropical highlands, some of which
kiss the clouds at two miles and more
I above the Caribbean sea. It Is a land of
rugged volcanoes and of earthquakes
I which d stroy cities, but nevertheless It
is one of the most beautiful parts of the
I face of old mother earth.
At tke Caribbean Gateway
We enter Costa Kica at Port Limon, Its
ig'i gateway on the Atlantic We have sailed
S j north from Bocas del Toro. the last town
.? f of the Panamanian republic, and been
landed at a wooden settlement of 6,009
t people, which annually ships to us at
least one-tenth of all the bananas we eat.
Hit exports every year over 11,000,009
j ; bunches or about 1.5OO.OW0OO bananas,
? enough to give one to almost every soul
; In the world. The town belongs largely
i to the United Fruit company, which does
1 1 an Immense banana business here, but,
; by nomeans the whole. It ha over 7,090
1 1 workmen employed on its Co.ta Rlcan
t i plantations, but there are probably one
1 1 half as many more on the outside estatea.
JJ As our ship comes to anchor, we see
:jat the wharves cars filled with bananas,
Jand watch an endless river of the green
J J fruit flowing on the long carrying belts
I I intn the holds of the steamers. There are
f m ' -
5 two ships now loading. One belongs to
tithe Hamburg American and another to
j the United Fruit company. The bananas
2 I fmm hern are taken to New Orleans.
J Mobile, New York and Boston. They go
"lto to Manchester and Bristol In Eng
' : land, and at last find the!r resting place
, 'to " something like a billion and a half
stomachs all over the world. We shall
find bananas for sale at the stations as
8 "P he railroad to San Jose, and
.wlll pay for them Just about the same as
"'"H home. The banana Is the poor man's
fruit, and it can be bought for from 1
v.'. to. i cents a finger, for that la what the
w single fruit is called In any part of the
union.
Indeed, I do not know but that it may
"'pi even cheaper within a few years from
"now. The plantations are growing, and
Ta rival company is being formed here to
" compete with our trust. This is the At
lantic company, which, as I am told, fess
bought many of the outside plantations
1 and Is about to make a fight for the
'""trade, It Is backed by some West Indian
v 'f4w. In inmhlnaHAn with th TThmhlll
W V . 9 1, VWIIIUIl'BUVII " I . . ..iv . ....... o
American steamship lino which wanta
a share in the freight It has much to
do, however, before it can successfully
'"compete with the United Fruit company.
'Jt'wUl require a new port and will have
to build railroads to bring the bananas
down to their ships. This banana bust
nss is not a small propostlon. The
United Fruit company, which has dona
i. more than any other to give -us cheap
fruit, ha many great Interests here out
side the bananas, and it has' farms and
ranches where It raises the cattle, horses
"and mules used on its banana estates.
(The ranches are In the highlands, and
upon them there are now ,11.000 head of
'stock, Including horses and mules raised
" 'from imnorted . atalliona . and taekaaaas.
There are alia .2,000 cows, from which
j ' conies the butter, used In the banana
j trust commissary, and there are other
.1,1... .-A ....In.,.
supplies. The business is so extensive
that all efforts are made to cut the cost
to the lowest possible notch, and I should
doubt much the ability of the Atlantic
company to compete as to prices i
' Beaattfnl Costa Kica.'
, But let us com back to the beauty of
this Costa Rlcan republic. The banana
plantations 'form but a small part of it
and thAv a r a atsnf titaasl a si atnln a Via
I lowlands along the Caribbean sea, There
are nlmliarl lowlands on the Pacific, but
; the bulk of the country Is made up of
j thse mounlalns, which roll over one an
; other in alt sorts of shapes, now In great
i gorges and again in little hollows or nests
i of comparatively smooth land whleh are
f covered with farms.
I Some of the mountains are over two
j miles in height, and from one of them,
j Iraau, you can see the two oceans, the
Atlantic and the Pacific, each being only
t about seventy-five miles away. That
J volcanio peak can be reached from Car
I tago, which la just ninety miles from
I Union, and we may possibly ascend It
before we leave Costa Rica, Its two
craters are now quiet, but they are liable
' at any time to burst Into action. This
country has nineteen volcanoes, and some
s of them are perpetually smoking. TV
I j average height of the mountains, how
' i ever, is only that of the tallest peaks of
; the Alleghnlrs, and they can be cultl-
vat"d almost to the tops,
! Down at Port I.imon It is hot. It Is so
: tropical that the natives cannot labor on
'. account of the climate and Jamaican
j negroes have been brought in to do the
hard work. Higher up we shall find the
people cream-white. They are the de.
cendants of the Gallic'ana, a hardy and
intelligent rare from north Spain, "who
! are far superior to the descendants of the
! Spanish of other parts of Central Am-r-,
lea, and also to those of the South Amer
! lean continent They are an Independent
t people, and the most of them are property
owners and liberty lovers. They do not
believe in revolution, and for more than
a generation they have. had continuous
peace. This can be said 'of no other Cen
! ral American state. '.
The Hrpnbllc la a XutMiell.
'; Eut before I take you on the trip up the
mountain let me put this little land in a
nushelL Yoi know where it lies. Con-
U!eHng Panama as the' hinge which Joins
' the Korth and South American contl
rents. Costa Rica is the lowermost court-,
try of our grand division. .'It borders on
Panama, and Jat now a party of Amerl
; can scientists, headed by Mr. John Hay
ford, the eminent geographer and scien
tist is mapping the boundaries which are
now in d!tpute. On the north is Nica
ragua and an Jose, where I am writing,
l es in th center of the highlands, just
about half wy between. The country.
; alt told.
P.lca. From one end to the othpr it Is a
mass of great wrinkles and folds, but the
soil which fills up the wrinkles and cov
ers the folds Is composed of volcanic
ashes and mud, and Is one of the richest
roils upon the earth. The land will pro
duce both temperate and tropical fruits.
Most of the country is so high above the
tea that the climate Is perpetual spring,
and as far as the weather goes, it re
minds one of that Inscription which was
carved In the marble room in the palace
of Delhi:-
"If there is a paradise on earth it Is
this! It Is this! It is this!
Climbing Ceatral Amrrlrna Aades,
But we can see the country better by
taking a trip from the Atlantic seaconst
up to the highland city of San Jose. The
northern railway, which is leaned by the
United Fruit company, starts at Port
I.lmon and climbs right over the moun
tains. It Is about ninety miles to the top
of the pass and in that distance we as
ppnd almost S.OOO feet. The road then
gos down in the neighborhood of 2,000
fet to the capital, leaving us at about
three-quarters of a mile over sea level.
There is now another road which has
been continued down the. western side of
Um mountains to the Pacific. That was
completed only last year, and it has given
the country a railroad trunk line from
ocsaa to csean. The fare on the northern
railway is about 6-cents a mile and the
freight rates are comparatively high. Th
road Is a narrow gauge, but the roadbed
is well ballasted, and as the locomotives
and other rolling stock were made in
America, the trip Is quite comfortable.
leaving Port I.lmon, we go out Into the
Jungle, and for some miles skirt the At
lantic, whose silvery waves are rolling
up on the shore. , On our left are many
cocoanut groves, the trees of. which are
so close to the cars that the nuts might
fall down and crack the heads of the
brakemen. After awhile we come to the
banana estates and ride for an hour or mo
through a d'ne forest made up of tU-se
wide-leafed rustling green plants. They
reach as high as the cars and are so close
thnt we can almost pull the fruit from
the stems. We s?e them . cutting the
bananas and laying them on beds of
teavesby the tracks. ' Later on they will
be carefully corded tip and transferred to
the cars.
As we go on the land rises. We stop at
Ma dre de Dlos, and a little later reach
the valley of the Reventaton river, an
emerald green stream which flows down
the wild valley which forms the greater
part of the route to the highlands. This
river winds In and out, now passing
through gorges between great walls of
bright green, One bend la known as the
Devil's Elbow, and above this are precip
itous gre?n walls 1,000 fet high. The track
winds along the sides of them and as you
look up your view is bordered with emer
ald cliffs and roofed by the sky. Except
for its green tint the water of the river
Is beautifully clear, sav where It rolls
over-the stones, foaming and dashing,
transforming Its emeralds to silver.
.'''A Botanlrat Gardea. ,
And then the vegetation. Our way up
the mountains Is through a botanical gar
den more gorgeous and more beautiful
than the famed creations of Java, Hong
kong or Ceyioon. The plants change as
we rise and we have hundreds of flowers
and trees the names of which we have
never heard and which few Americans
have ever seen.
The first part of the journey Is through
palm trees. Further on we find tropical
giants of other- arboreal varieties with
trunks as big around as a flour barrel
and 1C0 or SCO feet high. The limbs of
some are Covered with vines, and their
trunks are wrapped around with long
llamas or vegetable ropes which ex
tend to the ground and root themselves
In the earth. , In places these llamas
have vines connected with them and
the trunks of the trees seem to be drape i
In cloaks or mantles with great hobble
iktrts of bright green.
I wish I ' could picture ths orchids.
They cover the dead branches and hang
liiill
The blghest point of woman's hap
piness la reached only through moth
erhood, in the clasping of her chili
wlthla her arms. TeH tha mother-to-b
U often fearful of nature's ordeal
and shrinks from the suffering- lncl
denf to Its consummation. But for
nature's ills and discomforts nature
provides remedies, and In Mother'
Friend is to be found a medicine of
great value to every expectant mother.
It Is an emulsion for external
tffcplkation, composed of ingredients
which act "with beneficial and sooth
tag effect cn those portions of the
svstem involved. It is intended to
contains a little more than U.000 thm .m for tha crisis and
i! fri::iCe;,f!.i:f thus relieve, in great part, the suffer-
as big as Maryland, mora than half ns
MfT as South Carolina, about one-third
the area, of Illinois snd more than two
times that of Massachusetts.
The most of Co;t Kica, as I have said,
is made up of these highlands. They are
so broken that they remind one of the
illustration whlchone of the explorers of
the days of Columbus gave to the kins
of Epaln to show him the character of the
inland of Haiti; That man took a sheet of
of papff and crushed It up Into a ball m
Ms hand. He then pulled 'tt' apart' arid
threw it, all wrinkled and Crumbled, on
t'i--e table eayln?,
"Your majesty, Haiti is like that." .
I Well, the same may be said of Costs
in through which the mother usually
passes. The regular nse of Mother s
Friend will repay any mother in the
comfort it a'ords before, and the help
ful restoration to health and" strength
!t fcrlnra . ahnnt aftnr tiahT MnneL
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i ma BasaawS aaaaaaawawraaaasTWsTTMTTTaTHnrril I III 111 SSSJ I LJSSISHI I . L is irrmrr'B WIW lJl.i". I U.H.WI H,a isa.ua.
Develop i our oust m ID uaysi
from the live ones, They are of sev
eral huadred varieties' and cow t and
then we see one In flower. There aro
other air plants of every description,
and, In short, such a dense mass of
strange luxuriant and beautiful vege
tation, - Including flowers, trees . and
v.nes, that the eye alone can comprehend
Its great, beauty. It Is , impossible for
the pen to describe It.,' '
The Andes of Coatn Rlca,
The splendor of the mountains cor
responds with the vegetation.; I hive
traveled along the Andes from Panama
to the Straits of Magellan.' The elopes
of the west coast from Ecuador ,to-Val-
pariso are ragged and rocky, and as
hare as the most arid parts of the
Sierra Nevadas. They are bordered
at the south end of Ecuador, skirts the
western coast of the South American
continent for 2.CO0 miles and they are
as dry as Its sands. The Andes of
Costa' Rlca are covered with green and
the greeri ends alone In the clouds. The
air Is full of moisture, and there aro
clouds everywhere. They chase them
selves along the green canyons. They
nestle In the laps of the mountains and
cover their tops. They blow up to the
railroad cars snd envelop us in mist, ami
a moment later the locomotive and train
shoot put Into the pure air beyond.
I wish I could , show you the winding
of'- this northern railway track as it
goes up the hills. It has not yet been
discovered by the tourist who files off
every summer to Europe see the Swiss
Alps, but In many respects it Is equally
grand with the railways of Switzerland
and the more interesting because It I
almost unknown. The road winds aboul
like a corkscrew as it climbs up the Cen
tral American mountains. " It has horse
shoe curves more wonderful than those
of the Pennsylvania railroad curves
which are shurpenr and rounder and are
more like horseshoes, in fact. Moreover,
the hills rife above these curves for run
dreds of feet, and we wind our way up
the sides of a gorge and by looking
down and following the lines of the horse
shoe we can see the Reventazon river,
splashing its silvery foam as It rolls
over the holders. In one place the eye
can follow the silvery streak for many
miles. ,
, Among-the Coffee Plantations.
There are but few towns on the road
up the mountains. They are mostly
shacks of one story with the roofs over
hanging so as to cover a porch In front
and behind. Outside the porches the
average house Is not more than twelve
feet square -and the whole family lives
In one , room. - In some places we see
villages of such houses, and rising
higher we find the comfortable little
country homes of the cOffee planters.
The plantations devoted to coffee are
2,000 or J.O0O feet above the sea. They
increase as we near San Jose, and we
finally pans through a country where
there. Is nothing but coffee. The trees
are shaded by bananas or plantains.
They are not more than ten or twelve
feet In height. They are spindling and
the trunks at the bale are about' as big
around ts your wrist. They have shin
ing green leaves like those of the holly,
and the red berries containing the beans
are now ripe for the picking. The berries
are Joined clone to the branches with
out stems and each contains the two
little seeds which form the coffee of
"-frn it Is wonderful how the
eoffee lands are utilized. The planta
tiuu eumu the steepest hills and some
are so precipitous that it . would seem
impossible to cultivate them except with
rope ladders. Nevertheless, It pays, for
the Costa Rlcan coffee ranks with the
mocha of Arabia In the markets of Eu
rope and brings a higher price than
any other. '
There Is one thing which shows the ex
traordinary fertility of the Costa Rlcan
soil. What would you think of setting
a fence post and having It grow into a
tree? That is what they do here. The
mountain farms are surrounded by
hedges, most of which are growing
stakes, driven in close together and In
terwoven with barbed wire. As the
t-takes grow they shoot out long branches
at the top, and these, In time are cut
off and ..used for fuel. Indeed, there is
a wood lot surronndlng every field, and
the cooMng Is done with fuel supplied by
the fences..; .. ,
As we get on the highlands we often
have ah' extensive view of the plateau,
and a crazy quilt of small farms is
spread out below us. There are fields
of green stigar cane groves of oranges,
orchards of coffee, and beds of plantains
or bananas. The buildings are so low that
they are hardly visible among the trees,
or at best only the red tiles of the roofs.
Some of the farms have cattle feeding
upon them, and on others horses are
pastured. There are but few roads,, and
the people make thlr way to and from
the stations on horseback or In ox carts,
which Is the common dray of the coun
try. The horses are small, but their gait
is a single foot, and they are easy riders.
Every travele Carries his saddle ! bag
with him, and half the men at the sta
tions have saddle bags on their shoulders.
FRANK G. CARPENTER.
The Persistent and Judicious Use of
Newspaper Advertising is the Road to
Business Success.
A Full Firm Bust is
Worth More to a
Woman than Beauty , 'li
, 1 UUU I tttIO itUW llilil JUU B.IU, . 4?
MaTMHHMM
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As
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ELOISE RAE, 1762 Michigan Avenue, Suite 1551, CHICAGO, ILLv
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