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The OmahaSunmy BEMoAPt
Copyright 1913, by American-Examiner. Great Britain Rights Reserved.
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Two Ofiginal and Striking Evening
Costumes Designed Especially
for the Frenchiest of French
. Comediennes, and Two Unusual
Head-Dresses Showing the
Oriental Influences of the Moment
The
"Paradwe"
Headdress
of
Coarse
White
Net,
with -Huge
Bird
of
Paradise
to
Give
Height
and
Smartness.
have In mind when I design my tea
gowns and weird color combinations
reminiscent of the Far East Some
times I am Inspired by my friend
Bakst, whose wonderful Russian col
orings are the despair and delight of
my life. . ' . .
She can be the innocent school
girl the roguish debutante, and
again the typical girl of the boule
vards. All together she is a perfect
nannikln, and, well, if she were not
Gaby Deslys, I am sure that I would
try to persuade her to come into
our designing rooms. I could make
lovely things on her. But as this Is
impossible. I have done the next
best thing ' in tending her forth
dressed just as I know young women
of her style and type should be
dressed. She will 6erve as an in-
6plration to many who will see her
In these clothes and will convey to
them a message from me to the ef
fect that this is the way I would
costume them, provided they have
the same slender outlines as Made
moiselle Deslys. V ,
. One of the first dresses we decided
upon was a design after my own
fceart a pale blue tulle embroidered
In pearls and placed over the palest
rose-colored satin foundation. ' It
was a typical "Lucille" dress. The)
over-dress of the tulle so beautifully
embroidered with pearls Is grace
fully draped. The under robe is
scalloped at the feet and embroi
dered -ith seed pearls in a lace de
sign. The bodice is of a delicate and
unusual shade of rose-colorod panne
velvet. This combination of tulle
and velvet is very novel; also a hint
that Autumn is at hand. The seed
pearl trimming that is used on the
skirt is duplicated on the bodice. As
you can see by the picture, this cos
tume is delightfully suited to the
artiste.
It was a vastly different thing te
make a black velvet , evening gown.
Mademoiselle Deslys was not to my
mind the figure for a stately black
costume. Always black velvet sug
gests to me a stately matron, and I
could not see the Blender artiste in
that role! But suddenly I was in
spired and went ahead, making, I
believe, one of my greatest successes.
I used for the under robe pale pink
liberty satin in one piece from
shoulder to bem. This I covered
with a soft velvet drapery . that
started at the bust The bodice was
t ' jf fi c
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V
yt
fV W "i lk i .MV
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous ,Lucile" of London, and
v foremost creator o( fashions in the world, writes each week the
fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest
and best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion.
, Ldy Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and
39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York City.
By Lady Euff-Gordon ("Lucile")
A SHOBT . Vme ago I was con
fronted ' with a rather In
interesting problem tbat of
dressing. Gaiy Desly-. She rushed
into our . aris establisbmeht In the
rue Pecthlevre 'one day and an
no, ced that sh had decided to
change her manner o dressing. She
said that she had tired of the ex-
slen Jer, boyish lines, , such as she
posness, to serve -as maunikins.'
Her hair par ed toward one side and
undulate so that it falls over her
ears before it is drawn into a tiny
kcot at the back of her head is per
fo " to , tor Oriental and Russian
' .., Urtn Headdma Gold Lac. and
Metal , Disks $ugrstiv of a Ti rkish Harem. And
u".?rated fasiilons and .egocentric to th Right, Typical "LueiU" Dreat i'ym
ers had Insisted UDtn for her. and
that she longed for the slmplo
girlish things, such as I make for:
my clientele.
I aicst aomit that Gaby Deslys is
Just the type for my dresses. I am
constantlr searching both Paris and
London for pretty young girls with
vat Are UsacL
Before and After.
A SILVERY Summer moon ahona
sweetly on the likewise silvery
sands.', . : -' ,
The Bummer sweethearts sat tn al.
lence. She was gasloy up at the dim
klue vault over thm. where the little
tara twinkled Sn a million tiny points
et flame. He was sasinc at her aa it
ke'd like to eat her. . '
"Psarle. : what makes the stars
nice so dimly to-nlfhtr she surgUd
"They are, outshone by the glorious
light of your eyes, my darling," he
whispered foolishly, "and so they pule
their splendor, and er and"-
He didn't know how to go on. so he
kissed her instead. And she we quite
satisfied, perfectly content, and glad.
'.. ' . e e . .
Same moon, same sands, same peo
pleonly they are married now.
"I wonder now many telegraph
poles," she murmured thoughtfully,
"It would take to reach from here to
the Btooaf . ; : v
He looked at her as If he'd like t6
. kite her.
"One. If It was long enoush." be
snapped.' "Don v ask such allly ques
tions!" . ..-..'
And a solemn sllenee enwrapped the
aurotner night, .
ON
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headdress. Oh, how patiently I
have explained this simple coif
fure to my .maanlkins! Often
personally dressing their hair
myself in just this fashion
hoping to win them away from
puffs, curls and other curious
balr ornamentations. And thus
show to the customers the prop
er coiffure for the dress they are
exhibiting.
This time she came Into our
establishment, and while we were
in the midst of all sorts of ques
tions regarding materials and de
signs for dresses, we managed to
decide upon two coiffures, both
so new and yet so attractive that
I feel sure that they will be
copied and worn Inter on by mon
dairies from all over the world.
The first consists of a band of
coarse white net. bound tightly
around the head and fastened in
the back. At this fastening is a
huge bird of paradise, one-half
extending upward, while the
other half of the bird droops
downward until it touches the
shoulder. '
'The second headdress Is de
cidedly Oriental, suggesting both
Russian and Turkish turbans,
and yet -not quite like either. It
is made of very heavy gold lace
which is fashioned in-
-1 MA.i.1 .
iu a ciuBB.uii.iDg cap. '
si
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VrV
SeeeVw
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of black moussellne , elaborately
trimmed with brilliants. This was
necessary In order to brighten an
otherwise sombre color scheme. As
you will see, the most magnificent
and elaborate embroidery is on the
skirt below the hips, where the vel-1
vet is caught up to give the cutaway
effect to the bottom of the skirt. In
this motif I used brilliants, cut jets,
black crystals and steel beads. I
carried this idea to other parts of'
the dress and into a fringe which I
used in various ways.
The sleeves, for example, are
banded with this fringe and around
the bottom of the skirt another band
commences nt the -cutaway and
sweeps the floor in the back. . The
cutaway effect, by the way, is one
of the little touches that gives
youthfulness to the dress, while the
train is an innovation in its way,
for it is the only kind I approve
of for dresses for youna people.
It Is separate from the dress and
of a contrasting material. For
Miss Deslys the train is of black
tulle, streaked with lines of bril
liants and crystals and falling
loose from the shoulders to the
ground, where it is heavily em
broidered with brilliants and cry
stals on a velvet foundation.
At the back there is
a black aigrette fan
tasie placed at a pe
culiar angle that .
lends charm and originality to the
entire headdrtss. I think that the
most effective touch is given by the
hammered mrtal disks that hang
from the brlra of the cap and fall
over the forehead and hair.
I must admit thnt this clever
little artiste is not difficult to dress
she lends herself ideally to the
costumes she wears. She can draw
herself up to the fullest height and
become serious and dignified it the
dress requires it, and she can be a
beauty such as I dream about ant!
The "Cut-Away" Gown of Black
Velvet and Pbk Liberty Satin,
with Crystal and Jet Motifs.