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Copyrlsrht. 1912, by Amerlcan-Ixamlnir. ' Great Britain Right Reserved.
Oa the left le the Niw Ludle
Mercury Hat, Opposite It the
Lucile Geyttr Hat, While Below
It U Shewn the Ladle "Halo" Hal
ADY DUFF-GORDON 'the
J y famous "Lucile" of London,
md- and foremost creator of
fashions in the world, writes each
week the fashion article for .. this
newspaper, presenting ail that is
newut and best in styles for well
dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris
, establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre "of fashion."
-. Lady Duff-Gordon's American
. establishment is at Nos, 37 and 39
f West Fifty-seventh street. New York
By;LADY DUFF-GORDON
: (Lucile)
THE inspiration of Ascot
. wbsre. if a woman wants to
make a mark at all, she
must be very, very smart indeed!
alwaya stems, to result in the crea
tion and the choice of some won
derful hats. And this year the mil
llnery marvels are even more at
tractive then usual. So that any
one of those of which I am going
. tcj tell you might be depended on
to save its wearer from the fear
some fate of looking merely or
dinary, and, therefore, being en
tirely overlooked. : , . .
In a crowd, Indeed, a striking hat
. la of even more advantage from
the point of view of attracting at
tentioa than re - gown which de
mand free space and a full length
"view In all ita details, ere to be
seen and appreciated.
. A good many Leghorns are being.
used. This old-time favorite In
the way of atraws is gaining many
saw and potent attractions by rea
son of such schemes of trimming -aa,
tor example, an encircling .
wreath of giant wild rosea, whose
petala are made of differently and
delicately shaded net not, please
understand, the ordinary One dress
. net, but a coarser, more canvas like
variety, which can be depended on
not to readily get limp and shape-
less- . . .- -
' , Blue and pink and yellow and
j blue, la the palest possible shad
ings, are the colore which , are
thus brought together In those quite
" beautiful blossoms and some dear
little half-opened buds, while the
leaves which trail between and
complete the wreath are all of silk
and of a still paler pink shading,
" this being the most becoming tint,
too, of the aerophane, which lines
the brim. ;
By the way, another novel fabrle
, for the fashioning of rosea is
broderie Angiajse, - a dozen or
more of those pure white flowers
being clustered with ' some white
; game leaveson a big, shady hat,
whose crown is covered with a
closely ' folded softness of white
chiffon, which then gives place to
a brim of straw, with Just a bor
dering of the softer fabric, a big
butterfly bow of wide satin ribbon
holding those flowers together.
And really they need something to
thua - keep them in bondage, for
. they look almost light enough to fly
, away at the first breath of wind.
Another Leghorn hat is wreathed
round with ivy leaves in alternate
clusters of white and softest green,
, divided by bunches of little white
. aatln berries; these having for
. background, not the rather deep
. yellow of the straw, but the soft
ness of the mellow-toned net, whose
slightly frilled fullness veils the
brim. . .
Still again, imagine a Leghorn
whose wide "floppy" brim has all
Its fascinatingly Irregular curves
. and dips followed by a vide band
of black velvet ribbon, whose ar-
v, I
v -7J J l WMi ,:: :
A Lucilfl Dmi.Tftil Vkf Wliif A
with High Girdle and Skirt Trimmed with
iengtnwue i ucks ana t tonxontai
rangement is to exceedingly skilful
that It haa no suggestion of being
. stitched into position. -
Beyond this again, there comes a
fold of widely tucked white tulle,
which slightly overhangs and dis
tinctly softens the orlra. while,
round the crown, these same well
contrasted fabrics are again united
and then finally ' tUd Into a hnt
, bow rather toward one aide at the '
:; DacR. . -y.;: .A' .; ..
. Still another Leghorn hat a brim
awkwardly and lightly covered with
white nlnon against which the
atraw is then -rolled, upward to
form a series of four points..' For.
the rest, some wide white moire
ribbon is folded about the crown
and caught in at one side by a
' bunch of velvet cornflowers, all f
brightest, deepest blue, while at the
other the blue velvet blossoms are
intermixed with some which are
'modelled in pure white muslin.
. There are quite a lot of these
5.- a Hid. . . . :': :
Rafial
, ruff i
soms.
example, on
a black
straw
with a broad
inset
of white on
its brim,
velvet flowers te be seen Just new... , ; MW 11
Borne gorgeous crimson clematis. W IlwW
for instance, being grouped into a ,i,BlW ' iff
...tall bouquet at one side of a black ill B IVS
pedal straw hat, where there are )j M
a so laid about the crown some full- If III' .
blown ailk netalled roses, in "dead" ; f Hy
.mauve and. pink a quaint and I fir Wf
. somewhat daring Idea this of thus ' ,
u.uiiua uruuanc into close con-- II 'II V I
trast with the moat Aim.iv 11 alf i Iff r I
' rosea" tlBU kn6wB "nea of ., j I I II 31 : :tt
v White "Uliear.' too, are putting In I Jrvti I ' VI' v
a pretty appearance on some of the 1 fJiirf 6t
newest hate, , but always w con- f Wf '
For - ' yei , r ,; .-, ..
hat. "1-PV' .-,
band' - , - .
there is a side bouquet bf deep yellow
and oranae and til ent tinted roses,
above which uprise straight and
tall, soma half-a-dosen small pure
white lilies. These latter and and
lovely flowers also looking par
ticularly (well, with black and yel
low marguerites or brilliantly blue
cornflowers. . ; ;
And though all these models are
of the rather wide-brimmed variety,
which is certainly beneficial to the
eyes, as well as becoming to the
complexion, when the sua la at all
inclined toassert itself, you must
not for a moment imagine that the
small shape is not equally in evi
dence, i For indeed It is very much
to the fore and every day that
brings us nearer to the Autumn
season of styles, will see its In
creasing' popularity oye rthe larger
-models. L v '
One such delicteualy piquant at
'fair is of white moire with corded
' pipings to encircle the crown . and
accentuate the sligtit-upward , tilt
at one side of the boat shaped
brim., which there shows, too, the
effective contrast of a black satin
lining. . :- 1
This
Lucile Model .
Shown a Simple
Scheme of Dra
pery Carried
Out in Softly
Shaded Char
mease, An Or
iental Fabric la
Swathed at the
Waist
- in ivui m ir ai i
Ml
No. 183-fIow
By Mme. Lina CavtUieri, the Most Famous Living Beauty
WHILE most of the world of
, women u seeking means
of fieth reduction, there is
a goodly number of inquirers that
,'aik the opposite advice. They
want to know what to do to avoid
the thinness that other women are
failing and exercising, taking Turk
iih baths - and drinking diluted
lemon juice td attain.
Mme. Cavalier! gives advice to
this class of persons to-day. She
talks of flesh-making foods and tells
of a woman who gained the flesh
she wanted simply by eating a half
dozen dates after full meaU.
She refers to the value of drinking
olive oil for flesh formation and pre
scribes massage with olive oil.
By Mme.LINA CAVALIER!
-ROM a young girl comes to me
r- a e,uery often put by older
persona. Were It not that
the question were asked by her eld
ers ! should past It without answer,
for I think It ia not well to try to
' guide the natural growth of a young
girl toward alenderness or plump
ness. Nature should have its chance
to indicate rather strongly which
way it intends hef to travel, whether
the road of thinness or fat. When
this has become apparent, which Is
not until after sixteen or eighteen, it
; is quite time to supplement nature.
But for those readers whose
i- growth will not be interrupted by
any radical changes in manner of
living, I would advise special at
tention to diet. Give a great deal
of Intelligent attention to nourishing
the body. Keep in mind always the
elaas of foods that form flesh.
Of the cereals corn, wheat and
eate neleng In this class. The
bread made from them has the same
properties, especially If they are
used In their natural, unadulterated
state. Corn bread, made from rough
yettow meal and spread plentifully
with butter, le one of the best means
, of adding to the weight of the body.
Potatoes, if used In connection with
eggs, cheese and milk are Important
aids in that direction. ,
A French physician of unusual
: skill prepares - to fatten his thin
patients by requiring them first to
fast for a short time. Sometimes
he askS that this continue for three
daye, though in my opinion forty-
, eight hours are quite enough. This
is to clear the body of all remnants
of former manner of diet. This is
followed in his system by an exclu
sive milk diet of three more days,
he permitting the patient to drink as
much aa she likes, but insisting on
at least two quarts a day, drunk
very slowly, ten minutes for the con
sumption of each glass, almost liter
ally eating, rather than drinking it.
Should the appetite rebel at the
milk it may be varied by an occa
sional glass of orange Juice or of
lemon Juice and water, half and
half.
The third step In this rejuvenating
of the body before beginning to take
the flesh forming foods, is to eat
nuts and fruit freely tor a day or
tws or longer, unless your appetite
becomes too rebellious.
When you have begun with the
flesh forming foods, which I have
stated before in other articles, al
ways includes meata containing con
siderable fat, be careful to chew
them to thoroughly that all turn to
liquid form in your mouth before
swallowing.
I knew a woman once, extremely
thin, who alwaya ate a half dozen
datea for dessert, after a full meal.
To this she ascribed her rapid gain
In welcome flesh.
Beauty Questions Answered
, A. W. U asks "what to do for a
sagging chin," and adds: .'it's fall
ing Into wrinkles and makes me
look 'old."
Wear a chin band of muslin or
rubber at night. Bathe your chin
frequently In cold water or press a
piece of lee against It. Massage
that rebuilds and makes firm the
sagging muscles will strengthen the
chin, but trust this task only to an
expert. ' ?
C. R. inquires what she shall do
to "keep the skin from looking
withered." Use a good cold cream
plentifully, patting it well Into the
face at night after cleansing the
faes, .She asks also the best way
te massage the face te fill in the
hollows. "I prefer, flapping the
face gently with the palms ef the
hands to any other method."
A third Inquiry from the same
source it "how may I develop the
bust and make it firm?"
Develop the bust by Improving
the general health and by the deep
breathing exercises I have so often
described en this page.- Cocoa but-'
tar or coceanut oil patted lightly
Inte the buet may enlarge it. To
make It flrm .it le best to wear, cor
sets having no bust supporters,
these cut very lew. If you are no
longer young It le not well to begin.
But those who from their youth
wear no bust supporters are re
warded by firm breasts except In
cases of II I nose.
R. W. asks: ' Win you kindly let
me know hew I can remove super
fluous eyebrows? Not . that exactly,
but ! might well call them extension
eyebrows, for they grow over the
to Gain Flesh
mm
' a . - i & - s -
1
I. ... .? .
-
frl J
Mrrie. Lina Cavalieri.
Exercise gently while building
Mesh, but do not exerciie quickly nor
long at a time.
Drink water freelyj and during
meals one glass slowly drunk of
cold water will not Interfere with,
but rather aid, in the digestion. One .
of the first measures taken by those
jwhq wish to reduce their Hesh is
the opposite to avoid drinking-
bridge of the nose and my friends
all tell me that is the one defect
in my appearance." ;
v Pull them out with tweezers, a
few hairs at a time, until they are
all removed. After each operation
wash the spot with peroxide of hy
drogen to purify It, and apply a
good cold cream to heal it.
K. W. says: "I have had typhoid
fever and would like your advice
about repairing its ravages. My
skin and scalp are very dry. Please
publish formulae for a good hair
tonic and skin food.- I also have
liver spots. What shall I do for
them? Also please tell me how to
massage my face." - .
' This usually promotes the growth
of the hair- Massage it well Into
the roots every morning and eve
ning. ;
Oil of sweet almonds, 45 grams
Essence of rosemary, 45 grams.
Oil of mace, t grams. '
- While restoring the hair, be euro
to ; keep the scalp free from dan
druff. A shampoo once a week will
be necessary.
Pure lanollne la an admirable
skin food, i
For the liver patches, "hepatic
spots," "masks" or morphew." as
they are variously called, a stan
dard remedy in England is the in
ternal one of taraxacum or extract
of dandelion. , A pill of taraxacum
every . other night until the skin
begins to clear is the amount of
the dose.1 This freckle remedy pre
scribed by Dr. Erasmus Wilson has
been used with success in removing
liver spots:
Elder flower ointment, 1 oz.
Sulphate ef zinc, 20 grains.
t
v . i
. . s....8.j.......i xm
Copyright,'! Dtii k Eickmjir.
water atmeals. .
: Rest often. Bleep as much as' you
can, taking a nap at midday if pos
sible. Thin persons are nearly
all worriers. Fat persons, as a rule,
do not worry."
Massaging the body with olive oil
or vaseline aids in flesh formation.
Drinking olive oil has the same re
sult. , . .. ,
By Mme. :
Lina Cavalieri
- Rub this mixture upon the af
fected spot at night. In the morn
ing wash it off with water ".and
mild soap. Dr. Erasmus Wilson,
whose recipe is the foregoing, ad
vises, after ' washing the 'prepara
tion from the face, the application
of this: : '
Infusion of rose petals, Yz pint.
Citric acid, 30 grains.
Apply with a piece of soft muslin
or linen. In sensitive skins an irri
gation may follow this application.
If so dab some of this on the parts
" affected. , '
Almond mixture, yz pint.
Goulards extraot, '2 dram.
I advice dipping the palms into
cold cream and gently slapping the
- face.
On a Secure Basis ,
AD, Und m twe hundred dol-
"D
ruhlna into hi father's offlc. ,
"What Xor. my boy?" , ;
"Oh. & lovely little deal a ' aure
thing!" : - - -
How much shall we make out ot UP.
asked the old maatautlout)y. , '.' ,
"Fifty," replied the eon . eagerly.
Tweaty-flve each." T
The old man went to bit safe) with
drew a roll of notea and solemnly
counted oat twenty-flve dollars.
Here U your money," he said. "Let
ua consider we have made this deal.
land it haa succeeded, ton make tweo-
Ity-nve ' and I save " one nd
leeventy-flve."