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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (June 2, 1912)
ITheOm L4HA- Sunday Bee Ma gazine Page 1 i - As ft I ' " X . V. - IK Two "Lucile" Afternoon Gownt, the Pannier Idea. The Sleeve Have Deep Flounced Tambour Lace Ed Coat la of Mauve Taffeta, the ADY DUFF-GORDON, the 4 41 A :Yv. and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed -women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment bring her into close touch with that centre of fashion. " f Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment it at No. 1 7 West Thirty-sixth street, New York Gty. By Lady DuffGordon ("Lucile") NOW, that there is a lull be tween seasons Spring's end and Summer's dawn I vould like to talk to you a bit about the importance of making your own fashions. By that I mean the Importance of studying your selves, what looks best on you, what lines are ' best suited to bring out your best When you have really found that out then adept the fash Jss to your studies ant your dis coveries. That is the lesson I would like to really teach every woman the ne cessity of conforming the fashions to tierself, and not herself to the fash ions. The first is the intelligent thing, and places dress where it be longs, as aframe for woman's loveli ness; the second is the follow-the-eheep -way and - makes the tramu everything. And this is not only bad toste, but bad dressing. The pannier skirts are a good ex ample. I think the pannier is a very charming mode. 3ut It all depends upon who wears it and how it is orn whether it shall be charming or grotesque. It is an Individual fashion. That is Its first danger. A fashion that is in itself marked and unusual should be studied care fully. If a woman has a pronounced individuality of her own sbe.ruus snore danger in wearing an Indi vidual fashion, unless she studies it carefully, than any other woman, be cause two pronounced Individualities are apt to clash. One of Ruben's women would not look well in a pan nier, but one of Watteas'a dainty Marqulsees or shepherdesses dc luxe would. On the other baud, a woman who would not look well in, what I call a normal pannier skirt, might look very well in a modification of it And there are some womea who h 5 K ' ' Ml w ' 1 it Ml One en the Left Being of Mauve Foularde, the Skirt Expretting the a Slight Puff Between Elbow and Shoulder. The Gown en the Right la ged with Soft Pink Satin and Trimmed with Retettet of Same. The Edgea Being Trimmed with Ruche of the Silk. famous "Lucile,s of London. under no circumstances, should wear a pannier. If fahsion decreed that every woman should wear a red hat think of the many women whose com plexion, the color of their skin, the color of their eyes and hair, would make them look perfectly grotesque in red hats! . Why, then, should these women wear such hats, even if fashion should decree it? To slavishly follow any fixed uni form mode, either in the shape, the arrangement, or the color of a gown,' is Just as bad as the red hats. ( I hope Inter on to make a full article upon taste and the Importance) or studying your own fashions, buc this will do for a beginning. I will now describe the gowns ou this page, The beautiful picture gown of which I am sending you a photograph is of shot ribbed' nlnoo In green and brown. The fichu and apron are of cream old world embroidery. The sash is made of soft striped muslin pompadour pat tern bound with fnded mauve. - Hat of fine . white crinoline with bow and ends hanging down the back of mauve ribbon with black pilot edge and a bunch of pale yel low and silk flowers at aide. Lined underneath with same muslin as sash. The parasol is of the new pa goda shape and is of white taffeta , with a deep band of the fancy mus lin which forms the sash and lines the hat and is finished with a little ruche of mauve ribbon. The two afternoon gowns shown in the other photograph will next be described. The one on the left is of mauve foulard. The back of the skirt is exceedingly pretty being very softly draped and just expresses the pannier effect low down on the hips. The bodice has the long sloping shoulders with slightly puffed sleeves Copyright, 1912, rx kt &m& S-7S I if 1 if -MAp Mi4 win fa-4 '! t i 7, iA . . . A , put in belpw the shoulder and ending at the elbow with a soft ruche of lace. if- u HOT WEATHER PHILOSOPHY. rAT has already hnd a "rec ord day" for heat. The weather prophets are pre dicting higher and more try ing temperatures for the month immediately to come. It is a good time now, when Summer is giving us a warning foretaste of its qual ity, to study some of the very simple rules by which most of the dangers and many of the discom forts of hot weather may be avoided.. These rule3 are based on com mon sense, and common sense is based on experience. "At forty, says on old proverb, "every man , Is elthor a fool or a physician. There would be no fools It every body Itulled what is good and what is bad tor him. and followed up hla self-teachtng with self-prao-tice, and there would be little need for physicians. When the thermometer begins to mark eighty or ninety degrees In the shade, ana the sun is like an open furnace overhead, imitate the Inhabitants of regions where the weather la always hot. They do not suffer irom sun strokes. They know better. They neither heat the blood from within with fiery drinks, nor the flesh from without with bur densome garments. They cover their heads with tur bans which look heavy but "which are, In tact light and airy. For . a person In good, vigorous health a single covering of cotton, or linen, or thin flannel, is enough in hot weather, during he daytime. Id the chill of night something more is needed, but it should not be burdensome. The occupation and tho place where one works determine the kind of garments that should worn. It your occupation per mits it carry a light umbrella whenever you go out !n the sup- . shine. In hot countries, like Spain, you will see almost everybody by American-Examiner. Great Britain A Whit Satin Evening Gown with Overdraft of WhiU Chiffon, One of "LacileV Newest Pannier Effect Creation. (On the Right) A Very Smart "Lueile" Afternoon Gown in Soft Apricot-Colored Silk Faille. It It Trimmed with Mauve and Gold Lace. The Hat la of the Cocker Type and la of Mauve Satin ha asnions Lady Duff-Gordon Discusses the Importance of Studying Your Own In dividuality and Dressing Accordingly Some New Similiter Gowns The collar Is of hand embroidered voile. Worn with it Is hat of cream straw, draped in cream lace with black ribbon around the crown, with one long streamer hanging from the back and a beautiful La France rose resting on the brim. The other gown shown In tae pic ture is made of deep flounced tam bour lace edged with soft pink satin and trimmed with rosettes of same. The chief feature of this costume, however, Is the mauve taffeta coat worn with it. It has swallow tails, the seams are piped and the edge trimmed with beautifully made ruches of the silk. The little bonnet worn with It is of pale blue taffeta lined with pink, trimmed with a spray of beautiful silk flowers tied under the chin with black ribbon velvet. . Another very smart afternoon gown is shown in one of the sketches. It Is of apricot soft silk faille. The tunic Is made to stand away from the long, straight underskirt and the carrying a sunshade, or wearing a cool, light head-covering, and you will see nobody falling from a sunstroke, t , ; Put on your straw hat as soon as the weather gets hot, and pay no attention to what fashion may say. Choose a hat that is so woven that the air can circulate freely through it. Some of the hot-weather helmets are excel lent to wear in such weather. At any cost keep your head cool. Wear garments that are nut 'only light in weight but also light in color. Black or dark colored objects absorb the solar rays; white or light-colored ones reflect them. Wear white linen garments, if you can. The cost of washing will be saved from the doctor's bill, or gained by your Increased ability to work. Persons of a delicate constitu tionor those subject to rheumatic complaints, should wear a thin band ot flannel round the abdomen and the small of the back. Chills must be kept away from those parts of the body. When you are hot hd perspir ing drink little water, and NO ICE WATER, tor If you do you will not merely increase your dis comfort but yon will Invite dan ger. Don't run into the first soda water establishment you see and pour Iced drinks down your throat. If you must drink it would be better to take something moderately warm, or tepid. Above all, don't go to a bar and drink fiery liquors. AVOID WHISKEY AND ALL ITS COM PANY as you would your dead liest enemy. Alcohol. In auy form, taken as a drink, ts doubly dan gerous in hot weather. Drink Just enough water to keep the skin moderately moist; then. It your garments are of an open weave, and loose-fitting, the circu lation ot the air wi)l gently evapo rate the moisture, and thereby produce a pleasant coolness, be cause evaporation, or the turning Rights Reserved. 5 revers show a lining of gold and mauve lace. The bodice at the waist Is carried out with the same effect and falls over a belt of the same mauve and gold lace. The neck is finished with a tiny collar of mauve satin. The sleeves are long and straight in keeping with the present-day fashion, and fall over the hond with a tiny turnedback cuff of the same mauve satin. The other hat Is of mauve satin with bow of dull orange-colored velvet In the other sketch is shown a white satin evening gown with over dress of white chiffon with bolero ef fect in front of the bodice embel lished with pearls and diamonds. A tiny band of white satin finishes the neck and there is a soft drapery of white chiffon around the waist with long ends. The skirt expresses the pannier idea and is long and draping. "Jack and the Beanstalk," ol' pantomime popularity and fame, . will have a rival UIb season in many a fashionable "Jill" of water Into Invisible vapor, cools the surroundings, a consumption of heat being required to turn water Into vapor. This heat which comes partly from your body, is used up in driving the molecules of liquid apart so that they can form vapor. A very important thing is to avoid draughts of air. It makes a great difference in the effect up on the body whether it is cooled uniformly, as In the open air. or only in certain exposed parts, as when a cool breeze blows through an open window on your back or your neck. The majority ot ser ious colds contracted In hot weather arise from exposure to insidious draughts. If your work is done indoors keep the windows -open, but don't throw the lower sash up to its full height, lead ing the upper one closed. Open each of them a foot or so, for thus you will promote a proper circula tion of the air in the room. Hot air rises and cold a'.r sinks. The former will pass out at the top of the windows as the latter enters below. Common sense will tell you how much circulation to have, but avoid extremes, AND BE SURE TO KEtfP OUT OF STRONG DRAUGHTS. You can promote bodily com fort by keeping a firm hand on your temper. Never suffer your self to get angry, and especially not in hot weather. If you have a quarrel on hand let it stand over until next Winter-by that time, perhaps, it will no longer seem necessary, and so you will have kept cool both physically and mentally. Don't worry, and don't swear at the weather, no matter how hot it gets. Keep your temper, keep your head cool, give your body a chauce to perform Its functions without hindrance from heavy, unseason able clothing, SAT MODERATE LY, avoiding meats and hlghlv seasoned foods, drink as little as posslb'e. and. the "dog days" need have no terrors for you. W - -v .rrqr,'"ff I- '.tiW '' V Hi r mm t ; A "Lucile" Picture Gown of Green and Brown Shot Ribbed Ninon. The Fichu and Apron Are of Cream, Old World Embroidery. with a "beanstalk" of blossoms up rising from her straw hat, this aspir ing arrangement being the very lat est milllnerlal mode. And It is one of the smartest, too, for it permits of a blending of any number of beauti ful flowers and colors, which it dis posed in the ordinary way would al most cover even a goodly sized hat, whereas In the form of this tall, tap ering "clump" they leave quite un broken the lovely "line," which Is the distinctive feature of the new shapes, the resulting effect being of that ex treme simplicity which is almost daring and altogether delightful. Tjiese massed blossoms are for the most part placed rather toward the back of the hat, at one side, and not even one bud or leaf is permitted -to stray onto the front, and abso lutely untrimmed part, a very sim ilar scheme being carried out, too, when feathers are the chosen form of adornment One of the latest and largest models in fine black pedal straw has its wide brim upturned The Dictagraph By MINNA IRVING. w rE dare not have a quiet game Of poker on the sly, We dare not kits a pretty rlrl When not a soul Is nigh, We dare not talk about our friends. Or tell a joke, or laugh, Because It may be lurking near The tattling- dictagraph. No larks behind the teacher's back Nor mischief in the school. Nor gossip at the sewing club. Where gossip is the rule. For any pKce thought it may be Not big enough by half. To hide a mouse, may yet conceal . The truthful dictagraph. ' When night lets fall its starry veil. And we retire tn bed. No more beneath it do we search For burglars grim and dread. But in a fuller measure yet The cup of fear we quaff; Wa look behind the picture frames To find a dictagraph. I'd like to speak my mind abot;t The man who first conceived This conscience in a collar box. Tills spy that has me peeved. I'd like to meet him in the dark r.d have sn oaken staff, I'd like but hush ! it may be near, The tell-tale dictagraph. Thought He Was at Home. usual A BSENTMINDEDNESS Is r complaint with learned men, but with Professor Drlasdust it amounts to a mania. HIS devoted wife Is al ways having to explain and apologise for her scientific spouse's slips. But even she was outmatched the other evening at a dinner party at a friend's house. The flrst course, the soup, was almost .uneatable, and most of the guests consumed it with' wry faces. Not so the professor, teaning across the table toward his wife, be said, in resigned tones: "My dear, you really must dismiss that cook. The soup is spoilt again, as usual." Km ISllllllil r high along the left side, and, then sweeping low down at the right, where there consequently comes ito full view an ostrich feather of glorious cerise coloring, which lr so placed against the crown that' Its drooping "Lanoered" ends make a background for the whole curve of the black straw. Beyond this plume there is nothing not even an orna ment or a bow to fasten and finish off the feather, whose stem Is Just hidden at the base by a few soft featherey strands being drawn across it And the result is that, while this hat can be quite correctly and effec tively worn with even a plain tailor suit, it will also afford a perfect com pletion for an afternoon gown of charmeuse or taffetas, whereas Us predecessors in the way of beplumed models were definitely restricted to wear with elaborate toilettes. So thus are the advantages of the pres ent favor for simplicity onoe more proclaimed and proved. Nothing Like System. T ON'T tell me you can't remem ber things!" murmured Jobbs to Dobbs. "Memory is all a . matter of system. Now. in what year was the Battle of Aglncourt foughtr Dobbs pleaded that his memory failed him on that interesting his torical fact "Exactly!" replied Jobbs. "Now, how many days are there in a weekr "Seven." came the answer. "Very well Twice seven are four teen. Multiply by a hundrtdLjour" teen hui.tlred. Numoer of dava June, tr.rty. Half of thirty Fifteen and fourteen hundred?" "Fourteen hundred and fifteen h, ardfid Dobbs. een, has- "Right! That' the vc v.. sv.t.m r Dai- j . . nari "s what Of the Picture Variety iLJt'im, Tommy." said tho busv 1 1 merchant, handlnr his offw. boy some silver, "run out and get me fifty postcards. Be quick about It!" The boy went, but did not return. Time passed: four o'clock came, but the boy did not At last, on the stroke of fivo. the lad entered, with the confident air of one who has done hla duty nobly "Goodness. Tommy, you've been a long time getting those cards!" ex claimed the merchant only he didn't "Well, sir." explained the lad. "I had to pick 'em out Tou wanted prettv oneB, ddn't your "J Safeguarding; Himself. "Ill take a little whiskey out of the large black bottle." said Colonel Stllwell. confidentially. "I am taking this for a cold." ha added, still more confidentially. . "But you haven't any cold." "I know that But an ounce of nre vention is worth a pound ot cure." Shifting the Burden. Father (sternly): "Can you sup ort my daughter in the manner she's bean accustomed tor . Lover: "Yes, sir; Tin sure I can." Father: "Well, I can't do It any '.onger, so you can take her, my boy."