Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, March 31, 1912, SOCIETY, Image 25
THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: MARCH 31. 1912. THIS TO BE AWfflTE SEASON IkshionaMe Women Will Eschew All Colon to Be Smart 'SHOES AKD EATS ABE WHITE Bmta Are Varied with u Arrar of Sailors, Drrbrs, Pakn aaa Baa art Effect ( All Kinds. This is to be a white season in Omaha, and If you would be strictly "&u fait' you must bo clad In this no-color color from top to toe. Shoes, hats, suits. gowns, (loves all these articles In wo men a wearing apparel come in the smart est lines, the best quality and the great eat quantity In white. White, white, white, say the buyers in the local department stores Bennett's, Brandeis', Hayden's and Kllpatrick's. "Never have we put in such a big line of white shoes," says the shocman at Drexel'a. "White hats will be especially good," ays the milliner. "Let me show you the white suits," san the head of the suit department. "Tou must wear white gloves with ev erything," says the girl at the glove counter. Watte la Becoming, All this seems very extravagant, and as If the ones who are really going to hare the biggest Innings are the washer woman and the laundryman. But whit Is not extravagant when one stops to 'think that It is less expensive and much .simpler to carry out the white idea than to buy and match accessories to different colored gowns. And then, too, white 1 becoming to everyone and la delightfully cool for summer. To begin at the top and also because hats are more fascinating than any other part of a woman's wardrobe: There Is an all-white hemp hat from Marie-Guy, Paris, In the Rrandela mil linery department which is unusually at tractive. It has a soft, rather high crown of hemp, which has horlsontsJ cordlngs of white taffeta. The brim Is narrow and at the left side rises a big, fluffy white prince of Wales plume. One of the Beancourt hats Is high, close-fitting and dainty. The groundwork la of dark blue fine straw and Is veiled with crepe, mottled with Egyptian colors alternating with white tucked crepe. A bunch of crepe buds Is the only trimming. A large hat from Maison Lewis Is of champagne-colored hemp, the wide, flat brim rolling up near the front The top of the crown has a turban-llke effect in softly folded primrose taffeta. From this all around the crown branch the graceful Neu Mtdda feathers which have super ceded aigrettes. They are primrose shade near the top of the hat and grow black at the tips near the edge ot the brim. Ytt Clns. A Buxane Talbot bat to small and close fitting like a toque. It Is of beauvals blue a navy shade-end of Milan straw. A high gray plume trims the side and the facing Is of the same shade of taffeta. Has den Bros, have a Oahy Deslys hat which at very dashing. It Is small and close, of silver fishnet with three rhino stone bands at the edge and a big rhlne stone with several pendants In the front, from which black plumes covered with Neu Mldda feathers cover the crown and extend far back. ' - A -black Milan has for Its only Trim-' ming a whtle ostrich plume under a thlr-ty-slx Inch pheasant tall. A black velvet band surrounds the crown. A huge black hemp hat with drooping brim has as lis only adornment three primrose-colored dogtali plumes. Another big hat is a French gray Milan, with a loose foliage trimming from which rise two bit Pnk The little Paul Polrets in changeable taffeta and lace are nobby. The crowns are silk, the tiny brim of straw or lace and two laos Mercury wings are at the sides. Beside white, white trimmed with black and black trimmed with white, there are many colored hats, the colors being the rich and brilliant oriental tones. Prim rose shade la particularly popular, as are aim king's blue and empire green. In addition to the coronet shapes, with their ostrich plumes, fancy feathers and ornaments and flowers, there Is a vast array of sailors, derbys, pokes and bonnet effects with tsllored trimmings. Flowers. cupId wings, veilings and filet and shadow laces are used generously. Never, say the milliners, has there been so much In tricate handwork as there to this season. Fancy and Plain. The new suits offer a wide range for choice, for they are both fancy and plain, are found In many different materials and cut on a variety ot lines. Jackets are somewhat shorter than those ot last winter and are both straight and cut away. Rrrers and lapels and collars are large and long. giving a decidedly swashbuckling effect. Sleeves are both long and three-quarters length, many having deep cuffs which correspond with the collars sad re vers. Skirts are cut on long, straight lines with little more fullness than In the last winter. They are simple, carrying out In braidings, buttons or stitching the motif of the jacket. Van Caaaavanlc There are many changeable taffetas and one-color silk sulta. In the fabrics are the phlpcords, French serges, Eng lish suitings, two-tone dlcgonals, mixed worsteds, novelty stripes and the regula tion hatr-llne stripes. There are also many linen sulte-mostly white for mid summer. There Is a decided trend In the suits toward having collars, cuffs and revers of a different material and color from the suit proper. For instance, some of the blue serge suits aavo collar and cuffs of ratine a material which looks exactly tike bath toweling with a piping of cardinal or empire green. Some of the suits come with the removable lace collar and cuff sets on them. The elab orate cuffs and collars is a marked fea ture of the new sulta. The most extreme and the newest Idea In the fancy enllar effects on the spring suits la the fichu. The fichu la large, almost covering the upper part of the Jacket and Is usually of some One, white material trimmed with woe. Pwalln and Fsrhw Effect, One at the suits which has this flche effect is of dark blue poplin the beauvals shade. A double fichu almost covers the thirty-inch coat It la of fine batiste witfe rather large coral -colored polka dots scattered through It and with a one lack shadow lace edging. It reaches the waist lino In front and hangs almost to the waist la the back. The deep cuffs of the taras-taanba sleeves are covered with the batiste edged with lace and have a ver tical raw ef fancy buttons to tiw i eapund te similar rows an the Jacket. The skirt as extmaely simple, being trimmed snerety with a -rertk-al row of the battoas 'tieo. They are about a half lack s di ??JP5-Tsy . 'WfeJfeaxiaV... ii-A JLL.swt sSffl ameter, the outer edge being of crystal end the Inner portion of coral-colored china the exact sixe ot the dots on the fichu. However attractive the suits of differ ent colors may be the white suite take precedence In point ot up-to-dateness. The white suits are In the French serges, the whipcords In a new ribbed fabric which looks like corduroy and In linen. Linen Salts Pretty. Tho white linen suits for later in the season are prettier than they have ever been before, and are to be the smartest thing for summer, so the clothiers say. These suits are in both Jacket and skirt and jacket and one-piece dress. The loveliest, also the most expensive, ar? covered with hand embroidery. One suit is of heavy linen with one- piece dres end jacket. The cutaway coat deep shawl collar and wide cuffs of the long sleeves are elaborately wrought In Florentine embroidery In an aster flower design. The bottom of the skirt has a deep border narrowing and scattering to ward the top In the aster pattern, which also covers the waist Another whlto linen suit not quite so ornate has a jacket with cutaway coat and simple skirt The deep collar ot the jacket which comes to a point In the back, and also the deep cuffs ot the sleeves are daintily embroidered and edged with a two-Inch Irish lace. The jacket buttons with three big crystal pear-shaped buttons and similar buttons are on the back of the Jacket, on the cuffs and on the skirt EASTER'S M0VAB1L1TY FIXED Why the Rellsrtons Feast Day Varies from March S3 April S3. In 1909 Easter Sunday fell on April U. In 1810 It fell on March S. In MM It came on April 19. In 1911 It went forward to April II again. In 190a It came on April 23, In 11S to April 7, and In Nil It will come on March 23. How many people understand the reason for this extreme irregularity in the data ot the principal feast of the Christian yearT The actual arrangement Is easy enough to explain, but the reason for the ar rangement Is a little harder to get at According to the ecclesiastical program. Easter Is celebrated on the first Sunday after the first full moon after the spring equinox. Everybody knows that the mouths and their days are arranged in the calendar according to the solar year. and that the full moon never comes on the same day of the month In two suc cessive years. In 190. for Instance, the full moon following the spring equinox (March 21) came on April . and the first Sunday after that was April 11-end con sequently that date was Easter. This year the first full moon after March II comes on March 31, and the seventh day after that Is Sunday. Therefore, we have Easter on April 7. The earliest date on which Easter can fall Is March K, and the latest April J. But why Is this arrangement, this cycle, followed? We have to go back to Jeru salem for the answer to that Easter to the perpetuation of the Jewish Passover. Christ the Paschal Lamb, was slain on the day when the Jews sacrificed a real lamb. The Roman Christian began by celebrating the feast of the resurrection on the Hth ot Nlsan of the Jewish calen dar. But the Jewish calendar did not fit the Julian calendar, which was In use In Rome; an attempt to make It fit resulted In a constant shift from date to date In the Julian calendar, and the eventual sim plified plan of the date after the spring equinox was the result of an attempt to escape the confusion. This Is at least tho ecclesiastical ex planation. But In this explanation no dis tinct reason Is found to account tor the tact that the moon to brought in at all. Why was not the first Sunday after the equinox, or a fixed date, say, March 26, like that of Christmas, chosen? To answer this question the Influence of the moon cult upon the early Christians must be Invoked. To the ancient Ro mans, to the Greeks, and to the Jews themselves the Christians owed thslr no tion that the moon exercised a distinct Influence In human affairs; and aa the Jews had regarded he moon of Nlsan as peculiarly sacred, so did also the early Christians. And they assumed the "moon of Nlsan" to be the first one to arrive after the vernal equinox. At this day we know and rare nothing whatever about the moon of Nlsan. but It continues to Influence our social, re ligious and business affairs In a marked manner.-New York MalL Matinees Are Made on Straight Lines The matinees for house wear are made on long straight linen and of clinging materials-crepe de chine, messallne, Swiss, marquisette, India linen and striped and fancy nainsooks. They are trimmed wHh ribbons and laces and have boudoir caps to match. The caps are snug, round affairs with a narrow lace frill and French roses In pink, blue or other color to match the gown. One 0 f the matinees is of canary yellow messallne. empire effect with black velvet ribbon at the waist and hanging In long ends to the edge of the skirt The large collar, short sleeves and skirt hare nar row rows of fluted messallne. A Sarprlsr for the Mrldesrewss, George von L Meyer, secretary of the navy, said at the recent banquet of the American Society of Naval Engineers: "A verv fashionable wedding once took place in Washington. Only the Intimate friends of either family were lnvneo ana all seemed to be bent on having the best time of their lives. There was. however, one exception. A young man did not seem to be enjoying himself a bit. interna of mlnsllnr with the gathering the sad-looking young gentleman wan dered around the house, inspecting the wedding presents and displaying great In terest in trie oecoraiions. "Flnallv the hapor bridegroom noticed the fellow and, wishing to say something pleasant and having Imbibed enough to be able to do so. asked him why he did not mingle and have some fun. "Have yon Kttsea tne ones ynr as asked. Well.' said the sad one, ."not lately, New York Sun. Breaks Cold in a Day And Cares any Oeark tana Is Oar- oted nectars rsrasala. "From your druggist get two ounces of Glycerine and naif an ounce of Concen trated Pine compound. Take these two ingredients home and put them Into a halt pint of rood whiskey. Take one to two tesspoonfuls after each meal and at bed time. Smaller doses to children ac cording to age." This Is the best formula known to science. There are many cheaper preparations of large quantity, but It dna't pay to experiment wKa a bad cold. Be sore to get only the genuine tGlobei Concentrated Pine. Eacc half ounce bottle comes In a sealed tin screw top esse. If your drugsist ones not nave ft la stock he will rt it quickly from his whoiesaie house. This has been published here every winter tor six years and tnoa- saods of families know Ms vaiiav Ad. MAD MONK STIRS UP RUSSIA Church tad Government Shaken, by - Hew Religions Scandal FA5ATICAL SECT STIRS TROUBLE Head ot the Movement a Holy Man Who Is Close to the Tsar aad Can Defy tho Ordi nary Authorities. ST. PETERSBURG. March JaSome thlng like a cyclone haa recently swept through tht Russian church, and Bear the center of It Is again the "mad monk" Helldorus. An end was suddenly put to the monk's amaxing exterritoriality tram the civil and ecclesiastical power. For a presumptuous telegram addressed to the emperor, accusing the holy synod of heretical and uncanonical proceedings, Hellodorus' patron. Bishop Hermogenes, was dismissed from membership In that body. His refusal to depart for bis dio cese m Sara toff led to Hs being taken away from him. Finally both ha and Hellodorus, who had come up from Tsarltsyn to wage bis battle, were exiled to remote monasteries In Grodno and Vladimir provinces. This order was en forced only after a fortnight of Insub ordination, In which Hermogenus u sustained by some ot the most jtifluendai leaders of political and court circles. Meanwihel, Hellodorus had disappeared In a mysterious manner from the capital, ostensibly to make a pilgrimage. He mys teriously reappeared in St Petersburg after a fortnight's absence and also made a show of submission and departed for his place of exile. Third Klemeat In Prakleaa. The personal element In these sensa tional developments Includes a third figure, Gregory Rasputin, a reputed "holy man" residing In Tsarkoe Selo. He. It now appears, wss ths power behind Hell odorus, enabling the latter to say and do what he liked In defiance of the synod and of the whole government The Inter dict upon the press of St Petersburg and Moscow against publishing anything about Rasputin and the confiscation of about ten issues of different newspapers. Including some as influential m ruling circles as the Novoe Vremya and the Oolos Moskvy, Is another manifestation et Rasputin's power. His support was on personal grounds recently wlthorawn from Hellodorus and his group with Im mediate consequences to them. Rasputin keeps as much In the back ground as possible. With all the slyness of the peasant when dealing with persons In authority, Rasputin avoided getting Into trouble with the holy synod, though he has demonstrated repeatedly that tne synod Is powerless before him. Rise at Peasant, This untutored peasant from Siberia has gained all his power In six years. He owes his Introduction In the sate chambers of the great to Hermogenes, Hellodorus end Theophanus, who led the ultra-reactionary movement which came In the wake ot the revolution. Rasputin, however, restricted himself to the relig ious sphere of action. Those who came near him conceived sn Idea that be waa a person ot extraordinary spiritual ex perience and power. Such la the view held In the highest circles. One of the ministers of state who attempted to open the question about Rasputin during the Our price Fred 81 The Sensation of fhe flew York and Chicago Shows This Baker Colonial Brougham was the most talked of model at the 1912 Automobile shows. Among all the new five-passenger electrics exhibited, it stood out as the roomiest and most magnificent Coupe is low hung and sumptuously furnished. All seats facing forward. Chassis is especially designed for a very large body. It is not the stretched out makeshift employed by other makers in their haste to produce an extra large car. The Car Thai Brought Them All To Shaft Drive. ELECTRIC GARAGE CO. Omaha Distributors N. W. Cor. 40th and Farnam. recent stir was toM that "Russia exists these six years thanks to ItasjmtuVs prayers." The Duma views the matter differently. Aa orgeat Interpellation oa the censor ship of the press in cennectloa with Ras putin waa adopted with but a single dissenting voice. The text of the Inter pellation reproduced on ot the, In criminated articles from the Oolos Mos kvy challenging the holy synod to call upon the author for proof that Rasputin Is a chv.it '(flagellant sectarian), cor rupter ot bodies and souls, sty con spirator against the holy et holies, the throne and church altar. The charge ot being chlyst conveys a very definite meaning to the Russian ear. At matins and vespers priests of the Orthodox church rarely tail to admonish their flock against the abominations ot the chlysts. Thesa sectarians, however practice the utmost secrecy, and are among the most punctual of church goers. When the priest admonishes, they groan and mutter horror ot the very practices which they carry in In secret Remarkable at I tee. The chlysts aow thrive In thirty provinces. The most notorious thing about them to their religious meetings (called "exercises la seal") carried on either with Immunity la palace, or under constant fear of discovery In some secret underground passage or out of the way chamber. Oa entering the meeting room, the men put on white calico or linen shirts, reaching almost to the ground, and provided with long sleeves. The meeting communes are allegorlcally called ships, tho presiding prophet pilot, the sleeves, sails. Womaa put on similar shirts "with Ike addition ot a white skirt They also cover their heads with a white kerchief, with red spangles. All worshipers hold) a candle In the right hand and a handkerchief with red spangles In the left , These handkerchiefs are called Archangel's wings. Generally all remain barefooted, if outsiders are present the service hi a formal one of reading, diversified with .singing snd preaching. If all by themselves, the chlysts perform a va riety of religious dances, of which the circle Is the supreme degree, la which they tumble and writhe In contortions. Ilka madmen, beating themselves an the breast, pulling the hair, sitting down and jumping up, beating, each other and crying, "Oh Ghost. O Tsar, God, Tsar, Ghost" These dances, with In tervening prophesy and chants, con tlnue till all drop on the floor exhausted. in their beliefs, the chlysts are scarcely Christian. They call Jesus Christ the "old Christ" In contrast to constantly manifested new ones. To their mysticism Is added a dusilstlo view of the universe, the spirit being a good element and the flesh an evil one. They reject matri mony, are total abstainers from liquors, practice vegetarianism, rarely smoke, practice wide democracy and benevolence, thereby attracting the hunfhle and the needy to their fold. , ' Oar Owa Bflaatiwla, Mtstah Walkah. kin ro tell me de dir. f unce 'tween A aged comedian an' a man wit' a slight cold in his frost?" "No. Kami that's too deep for me. What la the difference between an aged come dian and a man with a alight cold In his throat?" 'ls one am a ols stager an' the uddah am a little raucous" Ladtee and gentlemen, the renowned Graeoo-Roman tenor. Prof. Rysuppen Ruhr, will now sing his favorite senti mental ballad, entitled, "Take That Clxa- rnot Out of Tour Mouth. Mabel. If you Want Me to Kiss Yo"'-Chlcago Tribune. No matter how luxurious a home might bo it ia not oomplete without pictures of some kind. Now that spring is here and you are having your walls re-papered, why not have those old style picture frames replaced by new and ARTISTIC FRAMES wi.h ,k' J1""? f '""nlng picture so as to coincide with tie color schema of the room In which they are hung wateroyr ' " ,nt"" arc right our aenrice excel li. OWL MOULDING & ART CO. BleTertlng, 1015 Howard 8U Fbosm D. 1673. THE BAKER H3T0R-VEH1CLE COMPANY Manufacturers Cleveland, Ohio (AkM and Ldryttt JfaanaeJarcr vf EtedrltYehicle ' I Collars and Cuffs of Women's Coats Showing Contrast The materials In coats for this sprint as shown by local stores are similar to those used In the suits and the same Idea of contrasting collars and cuffs Is car ried out Some of the coats are straight, some slanted oft toward the bottom, nearly all have large lapels and cuffs. One of the extreme models st Bennett's Is of navy blue serge with wide, round collar with lapels which come tar down the front and end with two huge, heavy, cream-colored crochet buttona. The col lar Is ot cream-colored serge as are also the nlae-tneh cuffs. Flaring back on each revere and from the cuffs are pieces of cardinal broadcloth which button back with three large buttona made ot three sections red with white between. The cardinal patches are piped In black. At the neck ot the collar and, extending through the cardinal plecea and reaching almost to the bottom of the coat Is a broad saah of black taffeta ending la a long, black silk tassel. A white wool coat has a large collar ot corded white silk edged with a band f deep blue velvet with a touch ot cerise piping between the white and blue. There are shoulder tabs of the velvet edged with cerise and the long bishop sleeves have a narrow cuff of the same. A kimono coat or black and white diagonal striped wool cloth to lined with brilliant blue satin. It haa long, flaring, pointed sleeves and slsnts off st the bottom. Ufa DrflalHo. A outhrn congrrautniari recently met for th first tim In torn yera an aired darky, who waa formerly in the rtpre fentailva'. aervlc. miring lhlr con verse, the ronxmimtn Iramed ths In terertlnR fact that hit old servant had. In h advanced ajr. .rsrnetl to read. "Well, now Sain." remarked ths for mer maPter, "that makes things Inter esting for you, doeant it T You should find pleasant companionship in books and paper a" "Yeasah, oracularly assented the old maav "Read In' is ahore a great thing, sah. I has aiven the matter conalderabls canatderatlon, sah. an' 1 Is prepared to say, sah, dst read In' la de power of heartn' wltt. da eyas. " Upplncott s Maga slne. Why Pay a Big: Price for Your Spring Hat? Why not gather up your own materials, perhaps add a little new, and have It made Into a styl ish hat at very little cost? Miss Pepper will take charge of It for you alw) clean or dye your feathers and flowers, clean and re hlork your strsw hat and furnish any new material needed. MISS PEPPER 14 to. nth St raoa X. tsos. f)f?I T FA M v7Iaf-I J iHlY H I nayVaf VB,ay Finished models representing authentic styles j Ladies' Spring Suits On exhibition and tale this week COMMERCING MONDAY, APRIL 2D I bars received a limited number ot Indies High Class Tailored Suits from a large New .York Ladles' Tailoring Estab lishment, recognized as orlgipators of cor rect styles, and noted tor their skillful adaptation ot Parisian fashions modified designs. These models will be sold at as low or lower prices than asked for the ordinary Ready Made salts in stores. They will be fitted by myself and fin ished by men tailors under my suprrvlsloa free of charge. Absolut perfection and satisfaction guaranteed. Prices for these suits will range at $25, $30 and $35 Tou are cordially Invited to call and see them. ORLIJAN LADIES' FIXE TAILORIN'Q Itord Theater Bid. . You Will Not Use Furs After Easier AulabaugtTs Is Ready to Receive Thea Three-fourths of the. furs sent to us late last sea son showed signs of moth when received. Bo early phono at once and set the time for us to call. We have a prompt delivery service. Your furs will be kept below freezing point all summer the only safe way to keep them. This method also retains the oil in leather and fur, thereby increasing the life of your furs. Our charges are so low, you cannot afford the trouble and risk of keeping furs at home. Our certi ficate insures ngainst fire, moth and theft I AULABAUGH I RELIABLE 1613 Farnam St. ,UtuLUitUiULUtii.LlitULi.ittLUtlLLUtUitUi FRAMED It's the little manifestations of personalltr that make a home "comfy," guch as good print, artla-' tlcally framed. It needn't be axpenitre. ' Art Isn't governed by price. We are showing tome aston Ixhly worthy sepia photogravures, neatly and sub stantially framed, for loss than a dollar. Ve would be very glad te ihow them to YOU. A. HOSPE CO., Fiamer'i Craft Shop 1513-15 Douglas Street. Omaha. SpWteCeWfc, WOMEN or TAmLS.) $ 3 DEMAND THl&i;l b l A WOMAN'S VICT0RT COMES . fei ffj JwhssshsendsYoBiklsaattsr- Ift'-'tiS "N sakiaf hr with bar ysara. As V I U- li,?;V . aowbira Is Voutfc shswa awes I I i" Ifw f ' plslsly th.o I tlw to". - 1 S ..O fLJ Ths C B s is aplnta CsiwH B-''ria3?Iv? J will actsally ss a ftfara that . 1 B Is kwsf Its supsts 1 - J iW,.V? SLENDKESS x I fl - br csatly rsstrslalag aad rs- I j III moalltai It, I ti 1 1 II Ths sTsnssrasas sf yssta la I I I pmsihl ts svary woman, as- . III causs sf war ansstsry ol tbs art li l jff .1 carset sssktsf , cslnsd by Jl P i IIJI svsr s rssrs' txpsricne Tan) Xil lini In ssssoa's C B models snaibst tW II ll ',Wtf ever ass. Pricss at ts Its. 'lift, I . HA YD EN BROS. . ' 11 el J You will find most interesting reading on the want ad pages. Have you read the want ads yet today? The Ladies' Tailor I, Boyd Theatre Building j S" w w serene latest Cold Storage I 4 FTJREUR Douglaa 2316. PICTURES