The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
Copyright. 1S13. by Amerlcsn-Exs miner. Great Britain Rights Reserved,
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Now Evening Dm of Palo
Pink Chiffon with Tur
quota Bloo Uadmkirt.
The Orerakirt U Heavily
TlllM loni latbk IKifa a Fm
broidery and Haavy Tas
el Droopint from th
CkdU. t-LociU" ModL
By Lady Duff-Gordon
("LudlO
DRAPERT ot aMM Uni to
vita M to stay for Um8ub
r at Itaat Not an wo
man will adopt tala !weat faaa
m at trat, nut tnay will b toroaa
Into lino Tery apeodlly. Tbo saw
at fabrics ar so soT aa nltablo
that Uo crapory ooaa not datraet
troat the sla4r sUboastta whlcn
e mast keep at all kasarda. An
uaaaally attractira ud vary saw
modal shown har is dsTelopod la
gray eharaeasa. It has a draped
tnaie. saost atartllng la Its trasU
avaat
Thar ts a scant nadarbody ot
tha ehamauaa, Just a skeleton on
wttca to drape tha tusle, Tha
knuckle length tleeres, Ittlng like
a i1ot, are the last Parisian word
tor smartneaa. Tha ana hole ta
Ire inches below the shoulder.
The full tonle Is drawn from the
left side under a trill across tha
back in eeant folds to tha front.
Hera It basts tree to Jast above
the ankles, being looped back halt
way to the high waist Una, the soft,
fall end dropping free and lying
eighteen inches on the floor. It la
knotted to fire the smart pointed
effect. Tha wide, plats girdle of
Brocade la also a smart touch.
A decided contrast to this after
noon gown la the elaborate eren
ing costume. Here the tonle,
elaborately embroidered, hangs
free. Tea draped effect Is shown
ta the bodice sad Just below tha
high narrow girdle. An nnasual
effect is produced by the slashed
satin skirt, which shows ths ander
skirt with its embroidered bands.
Such eostames here described can
only be dereioped by master hands.
Graceful drapery caa seldom be
achieved by norices.
.The smart utile morning frock
ha not been ignored, but It boasts
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A Now "Lucno"
Drapery
for Gray .
Afternoon
Gown with
Broad Waiatband
of Black and
White Chinese
Brocade."
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5,
i2d
no drapery. The peasant sleere
still has Jts followers. In this
model the skirt's sorority of cut Is
softened by the orersklrt, stitched
flat as part ot the skirt Itself and
outlined with velvet piping and
trimmed with velvet loops. Tha
' piping Is also osed with good effect
on the blouse which ts also deco
rated with a collar ot handaoms,
heavy lace. The bias front and
high narrow gird Is are particn
uarly effective.
In general shaping and style, tha
new Spring models differ hardly at
all from their last season's prede
cessors, ths waist line being still
rather high, snd the bodice still fa
voring the kimono cut aa far aa
tha sleeve Is concerned, though
cross-over and 6c hu folds are vary-
7 ;
A New
Dress
of
Blue
Silk,
with
Close
Draped
Side
Panels.
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the
famous "Ludle of London,
tod formost creator of fa
tkiona in the world, writes each wetk
the fashion article for this newspaper,
presenting all that is newest and bed
in stylet for weD-drated women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris
establishment bring her into dose touch
with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American es
ubEshment is at No. 1 7 West Thirty,
sixth street. New York Gty.
'ing Its aspect somewhat, both la
the front and at tha back. By tha
way, the length ot the sleeve Is a
. matter which you caa ona and alt .
decide to suit yourself your arm
and tha amount of your allowance
which Is dedicated to gloves for
bell-shaped elbow sleeves: tha
three-quarter, and rather' mora
closely fitting variety, ' and again
mltten llke covering, which art -continued
almost to tha knuckles,
are each and all to be represented
snd favored. (
Aa to tha skirts they are very
tight round the hips and not ap
preciably fuller about the feet,
though they are made loose and
quite different sometimes by the ad
dition ot little pleating or rows
of flouncing, this being a scheme
which Is generally adopted when
the material Is taffeta. ' Tunics are
not much seen, but Instead there
are some slightly bouffant drsp-;
erles, which by being caught In .
about the knees exaggerate the
scantiness of the plain underskirt
In a wsy which msy be eye-arresting,
but is certainly not at
tractive. Any definitely pannler-Uke
effecta are not likely to be favored,
or, at any rata worn: la tact, even
those who are responsible for their
introduction, never, from the be
ginning, put much faith In them.
But It seems that, nt th beginning
ot each sesson now, there must be
a "freak fashion hobble, or
harem, or pannlered skirt to cre
ate discussion and dissension, snd
to give us sll something to think
about and talk about at an other
wise somewhat dull time ot the
year of dress.
For as a matter of tact and
faahlon the worship ot "la Ugne"
Is as great as ever, and all pos
sible means are to be taken to pre
serve In all It loveliness that nat
ural and graceful contour which
just lately has lent appropriateness
to that oft misquoted deacrtpUon
of "the female form divine." And,
truly. It would be a thousand pities.
If, Just when after so long a .
struggle we had attained to some
thing like perfection ot contour we
should be compelled to hide our
light and loveliness nader th
bushel of panniers! 8o any radical
change being unwelcome to every-
v one it will. If It Is to be accepted
at all, be mads so gradually that
It eventually creeps upon us snd
takes os slmost unswarel
For fabrics the tailor-mades are
utilising whipcords, costings, fsney
corded diagonals In two tones
woollen bengal Ine. tissue eponge
snd a new and very soft finished
serge. All are quit admirable tor
their purpose, but la particular I ,
approve of those "sponge" doths,
which look welt la both their plain .
i aad striped effect, while another
notable and beautiful variety in
' dark blue la finished off with
aa Interwoven border, in deep
orange, golden brown, emerald
green and flam, that daringly .
contrasted colorings being then set .
off by a Une edging ot whit aad
there being finally added a little
fringe of the original aad dark blue. .
No other trimming thaa its owa
bordering la. of course, required, so
th extra cost ot the fabric ta
therefore repaid at oace. And
when yon see the effect ot this
border aa used to outline collar aad
lapels snd th one-aided fastening
of both coat aad ekirt, ya will. I
am sura, b Inclined to think that
It la repaid with. Interest.
But even In th cas of tailored
costnmea th all-conquering taffsta
must be considered aa a serious
rival to the ordinary tweeds and
serges and the new "towellings"
and spong cloths aad so forth,
while, of course, tor towns of all
kind It practically reigna anprem.
It Is being show In all possible
and pretty varieties, so that It caa
adapt itself - to the most entirely
different styles of msking up. Taf
feta chameleon ia beaatlful la Its
subtly suggested shade, while th
ordinary shot taffetas show more
dell nit colorings, and then. too.
there is taffeta broch all showered
with little pompadour designs, aad
still agaia striped taffetas aad
checked taffetas to be aaed either
separately or la conjunction snd
combined with th Dlala akin.
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Mme, Line Cavalier!.
UNSTEADY nerve are foes of beauty. Control
. 'your nerves. Subdue them. Force them into
the background. This is the menage Mme.
'. Cavalieri, the most celebrated living beauty, sends to
day to her readers.
She tells them what habits cause nervous excitation
and what means should be taken to prevent and cure
it This article pcecsst the substantial value and the
entertainment of aD the beautiful prima donna's contribu- .
i lions. '
By Mme. Lina Cavalieri
A"
Rf yon a tea or coffee drank-'
ardr
Do yon blush easily, and at
tha wrong times and places
Ar you Irritable?
Have you a hobby T
:-. All . these . seemingly unrelated
Questions have a bearing upon what
, I will talk about to you Unlay. It is
the army of soldiers within us
which easily becom traitor. They
'.are th nerve
j An eminent medical director of
an asylum for the Insane In your
country borrowed he did not say
he had coined the phrase, -brain
storms." An English authority has
recently said that much tea and
coffe drinking cause "nerve
storms." Recall the awcesalvely
nervous women you hsve known.
They hsve all been, unless illness
csused their state, addicted to
much tea or coffee drinking, or to
tha other foes to the nerves,
alcohol or cigarettes.
The sctlve principle of tes I
theine. That of coffee Is csffelne.
Both are powerful poisons. It Is
this poison at work In a minor de
gree that gives you th Impression
that they ar nerve timulanta.
Caffeine la the stronger and has a
more direct and powerful actioa oa
the nerve centres. Most persons
drink too much coffee. Nervous
women drink too much whea they
drink any.
If you hav either habit and
find K very hard to foreswear
, them drink cocoa Instead, for
sees le undenisbly a food. A great
dietician compared Its nourishing
aualitlee with those of th egg; In
deed ehrlatened rt "a vegetable
98." It contain nitrogen In the
term f gluten, much fat, some
starch, and a mild stimulant of
Its wn, theobromine Authori
ties en food have placed It beside
th egg In th rank ef perfect
foods.
It i well that you knew th
proportional amounts ef alcohol
In the varioua wine and llquera.
In whiskey, brandy, and gin, for
eaampls, there Is fifty, per cent
aleohal. If you drink a glass ef
brandy yew ar drinking half a
glaeeful of alcohol, in tha case
ef eherry you drink a quarter of a
glass ef alcohol Da rata and
burgundies contain one-tenth to
one-twentieth alcohol. Beer le
about one-fifth alcehol. Should
any en ordtr you to drink a glass
ef pur alcohol you would think
h waa eraxy and would probably
call fer help; but there you have
the table ef th amount you con
sum, at dinner or wherever
th are drunk.
In this sg ef th demsnded
equslity of the ssxa K seem
heresy to say that woman may
not drink and ameka (f men do;
- but Nature herself ha raieed that
bar. Drinking la an evil foe both,
but a greater evil for woman.
ia cigarette emoklng, for women
ar of a more highly keyed none
eua ay stem than man. "Mere ac
tive in thought, more Intuitive, f
keener perception, her nerveua
system le mere likely to dvlp
the unstable stats," eaya en of
' England's greatest medical -au-theritlo.
It yoa do bob ef these agsiaet
which I hav altered a waning aad
you ar aUll Irritable you shoard ooa- .
elder year an saner of aleepng and
kind of food, la London whil I
waa singing there last Winter I saw
a bed especially Invented for aerv
ocs persons. The principle was
ths same as the rocking of the
cradle for infanta, uoept that the
motloa waa quite' opposite. The
bed wa tilted at a gentle elope
toward the foot It waa fixed at its
centre and from thia point by a me
chanical contrivance waa alowly
lowered and raised, produciag a
gestty soothing motion that grada-
JJVJh
No. 170 Those
Traitor Nerves
MR.
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iV
"On the jumping machine which ia a tonic for weak nerves."
ally "put you to slsep." If I am
ever greatly afflicted by nerve t
shall certainly order one sent to my
kom la Paris.
As to food the fsct that phos
phorus Is good brain and so good
nerve-food Is accepted, but there Is
a difference of opinion aa to
whether fldh contains a greater
amount than doe beef. But flan,
specially of the whit eort, la bet
ter, because It take less energy to
dureet It then does beef, and th
nervous person must at all time
conserv her energy.
Fats sr excellent food for th
neurotic. Esquimaux live on blub
ber, th fat of th whale, and whs
aver aaw a nervoue Esquimaux?
The people hav all th calm ef
their silent north until they oome
to the United States and acquire
the food habit that hav mad
you knwn "tha dyspeptic na
tion, Fat build nerve tiaeuee.
Beauty Questions Answered
L. J. write: "Will you kindly
publish some remedy tor red, boncy
Under
Hands csn be msds plumper by
waahlng them leee In water and
more in cold creama, or If the ar
not always available, In lard, eust
r any kind of clean grease. Olivs
ell I fattening, but more expenaiv.
Almond ar eocoanut all ar coeea
butter rubbed well late th hande
at night ahould gradually fatten
them, but It will ta considerable
time and much patience.
Far whitening th hand ammo
nia may Be ud with warns water
In which you waah your hand, ten
drop In a quart ef water. A half
dozen drop of tincture of ammonia
may be used fer th earn purpose.
Lemon Juice ta a fames whltener.
Rub a half lemon wall ever th
hands before retiring. Wear Urge,
loose glevee at night But, moot im
portant ef all. la It t dry th hands
thoroughly after washing them, or,
till better, before they ar thor
oughly dried rub wall Into them jn
of th following;
Glycerine 1 ex.
Fteeewater 1 ox.
Tincture ef benzoin. . ..10 drp
J. B. says: "I am a young girl of
4
fclnwill
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mm
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Milk and eggs, most and butter
contain rt Oils also.
Another clae of food that neyr-
lh th nerve ar nitrogenous.
Nitrogen I found In th Juice ef
masts. In sour milk and sour
cream, and In tha whit ef eggs.
Every meal should contain nearly
one-fifth ef nitrogen.
If you haven't a hobby acquire
one. Don't let lif become a tread
mill. Boutin causes mutiny ot th
nerve Hav something to play
with la which you forget the eeri
oua business of your lit. Let It be
something you like. If It la muslo
practise a little every day. Never
mind th neighbors. Perhaps you
like colors and enjoy daubing and
eallng It painting picture. Do thla.
than, no matter who langhs. You
msy be a naturalist Then be out
of doors a much as yea can. But
play at something to keep your
aerr balance.
fourteen aad deeply Interested In
your article. Will you please tell
ane how to get rid of blackheads
that disfigure my nose and fore
head r
Buy eome green aoap, which I a
liquid, aa yeu probably knew, and a
oft esmplexlen brush. Dip th
brush Into warm water, pour seme
aoap Ovor th bruah, and scrub
gently, but persistently, the spate
where the black heads appear.
Dent make face when you da this,
for that will make wrinkle even at
your age. When th. blackhead are
thoroughly soft pros them owt wir
your Angara, which you have
wrapped in clean white muelin ar
with absorbent cotton, a that the
akin may not become infected by
th fingernail. When you hav
preoaed them all wt pat cold cream
or olive ell into the tender spots
left by th operation. When yeu
have removed th blackhead keep
them away In the future by keeping
the fac free from dust . Blackheads
ar merely the duet that haa set
tle late the pores and chkd
them.